Living on an island can feel a bit like living in a tin can at times. When our friends in Utila suggested we go to Pico Bonito, Honduras for a weekend we jumped at the chance. I have to confess we knew nothing about Pico Bonito besides there are some pretty intense white water rafting.
Getting There
Getting to Pico Bonito from Utila was really easy. First we took the ferry to La Ceiba, the town we look at across the blue ocean everyday. This is the mainland of Honduras. A cab met us at the ferry dock, and drove us to the meeting point for Pico Bonito. (La Ceiba can be pretty dicey so arrange a taxi before hand through your hotel if possible.) After waiting about 10 minutes (they are still on island time in La Ceiba), a 40-year-old Land Rover pulls up. It was a welcome sight after the 5 of us had been literally sitting on each others laps for over 45 minutes.
For those of you who don’t know I have an obsession with vintage 4-wheel drive vehicles. So this gorgeous Land Rover instantly made the entire trip worth it. The top was off, and this stately vehicle was ready to take us up the mountain to Pico Bonito.
Pico Bonito means little beauty. It was easy to see where the name came from as we wound our way up the road. Massive mountains sandwich the river where we were to spend the weekend. Everything in the area, each tree, plant, animal and human was carefully protected and preserved by the government. The river was speckled with huge grey, white, and black granite boulders bordered morning. Most had fallen from the mountains thousands of years before. These boulders were taller than most homes in the States. They stood majestically keeping the jungle from creeping into the amazing river.
The Hotel
The view from the Jungle River Lodge was completely mesmerizing. The open air dining area looked out over the river and the massive jungle on the other side. The only sounds were the flowing water and the wild birds. While the motel was on the extremely modest side the service, food, views and natural pools made it a great stay.
Since our trip was so short we took advantage of the sunshine. Getting dressed immediately we headed down the river. The two guides split the five of us into two different rafts. At the time we were rafting the river was at a category 4 level and the water was quite low. The tricky thing about rafting in Pico Bonito is skirting through the massive boulders. Our guide had been on the river since he was a child. He knew exactly when we should lean, paddle and pray.
The River
If you haven’t been white water rafting in your life please go! Maybe a category 4 or 5 in Pico Bonito, Honduras isn’t your thing but find a level and place that is. There is such a rush being in nature and facing the elements, the unexpected and the strength of the water.
As we paddled, balanced, and held on to make it down the river, through the boulders and over some small drops I couldn’t help but laugh and smile, no matter how much water was flooding in. We almost lost J. at one point, a big bump threw him way off balance. But a strong Honduran guide, be he ever so small, grabbed on and pulled him back in the raft. There are times along the river when the water calms down and in those moments I leaned back and took in the massive mountains, jungle and the clear blue sky. It is a lot like life-bumpy, crazy, fast and unpredictable. There are glorious moments of calm and beauty to reward you for your effort.
Against my better judgment I did jump into the cold water to swim and float when the waters were calm. The water was low because it was summer so we couldn’t go too far before we were back in the raft, floating to the end point. Our hotel offered a photographer to travel along the shore and take pictures. The photographers skills were exceptional. He captured moments we would have missed. I am SOOO glad we hired him. (Although I have to admit I was a bit nervous turning my camera over to a complete stranger.)
And The Rest
The rest of the afternoon was spent lounging on boulders, soaking up the sun, drinking Honduran beer and sitting in the natural pools. The pools were formed by the rain and natural crevices in the boulders.
The following day it was time to jump from the tallest boulder into the rapids. This I didn’t do. I chose to stand down river and take pictures. While it looked like fun watching one of my friends get sucked down the wrong path and struggle to get back to shore was all the evidence I needed I made the right choice.
Later that afternoon, with as much clothing as we could handle in the heat we headed into the jungle along the opposite side of the river. The five us walked the crazy suspended bridge, probably last maintained in 1950. After making it across we trekked through the mosquito riddled jungle. The beauty, serenity and views were worth every bite. (Definitely bring spray if you intend to spend anytime in the jungle.). In some ways we were all glad to be fighting against an insect we could see rather than the sandflies in Utila.
In Pico Bonito I found a peace and calm rarely experienced. We watched snakes and lizards move through the trees, laughed and told stories with our friends. All in this little haven away from the rest of the world. As we packed up and loaded into the Land Rover we knew what we had just experienced was so special it would stay with us forever.
That my friends, is why I travel. And why you should too…
People often ask me “How do you choose your next destination?” Believe it or not it really stumped me. Planning was never something I sat down and thought about. (I am a serious fly by the seat of your pants kind of girl.) After thinking about it I realized the “How do you choose your next destination?” question is not an easy one to answer. After all we each find inspiration in different places or in different ways. As a seasoned traveler perhaps I can shed some light on how to choose a destination that speaks to you.
In 2016 we began our lives as digital nomads. The first five months we spent in Utila because I had a volunteering opportunity to teach English on a small island. As we looked forward to the next year it was a Youtube video that inspired that started our inspiration. We chose our first destination based on a bucket list item for J.-to play with baby elephants. That took us to Thailand. From there it was a combination of these things that have guided us:
Bucket List
My first answer to “How do you choose your next destination?” would be to look at your bucket list, or dream list. What do you have a burning desire to do or see? Where can you experience that? Aside from baby elephants I wanted to see Orangutans in the wild. We also dreamed of diving with giant manta rays. So Indonesia was a must when we were in Asia. Morocco had always been one of my top three places to visit so that was added to the list. We knew we wanted to experience things that would feel special to us and these were at the top of our lists.
Be flexible when you are planning. If swimming with whale sharks is on your bucket list but you can’t afford a trip to Asia why not look at Utila? It is closer to the U.S., and so it is much easier to get away for a week as well as being less expensive.
Travel Blogs
Bloggers are definitely my biggest source of inspiration when we are looking for places to see or for new experiences. There is so much in the world I never knew existed. With a little perusing of travel blogs you can find inspiration to last a lifetime.
If J. or I think of a country or region I search for that and add in “blogs” or “bloggers” to the search in order get those as results. You can also use Pinterest and Instagram to find travel bloggers as I mention below.
In the last two years I have learned that many of the search results that appear if you don’t specifically look for bloggers are generic sites just rewriting what someone else has written. It becomes painfully obvious people who have never been to the location write many of these sites. So, I look for digital nomads, expats, families living off the grid-people who are really experiencing or visiting the locations.
If you follow our travels on this blog I promise to inspire you!
Instagram
There are some great travelers posting inspiring locations, or adventures so it is possible to find inspiration using travel related hashtags. When an image inspires me I often comment on the image and ask questions or I look them up online to see if it is a place we truly want to go. You can also look in the bio and find the link to their website or blog.
Get inspired on my Instagram page where I have tons of photos from our trips around the world.
Pinterest
Pinterest is a great place to find travel bloggers for inspiration. There are also beautiful images there which prompt me to research places or experiences I didn’t know were possible. I worked out an itinerary for a friend based almost solely on her Pinterest finds.
J. and I spend hours watching destination videos on Youtube. Sometimes one of us will think of a location that sounds like it might be fun and then check out some of the vloggers to see if it really is for us. Good vlogs will give you so much information. They often talk about wifi coverage, driving recommendations, and really show you the essence of a place. Try searching Youtube by location is an easy way to get started.
Check out our video of playing with baby elephants.
Recommendations
This is probably my favorite way to find other places to travel. We talk to people as we travel and ask them where their most memorable trip was. We ask them where they would recommend people travel if they only had one trip etc. The answers are varied (with the exception that 75% of people say Japan!) exposing us to so many places we never thought about as great destinations. It is also a great way to make friends.
Each year J. and I make sure we are back in the U.S. by Thanksgiving so I route our trips starting the farthest away and then working our way back to the States. For me it was an easy way to narrow down our route.
When planning we treat each year as though it is our last year and prioritize what we want to see in case we can never travel again. It may sound silly but it is all about experiencing what moves us the most.
So I wasn’t lying when I said, “How do you choose your next destination?” is a complicated question for me was I? Try these suggestions, you will find the one or two that work best for you, or maybe a combination of all of them and then let your inspiration guide you. Traveling is an incredible gift, one that most people in the world don’t have, so choose what excites you, what speaks to your soul-you won’t be disappointed.
The Cinque Terre (5 cities) are some of the most photographed and visited places in the country of Italy. Twelve years ago we instantly fell in love with the Cinque Terre and their people, views and food. As time has passed the onslaught of tour buses and tour groups have overtaken these little towns. The Cinque Terre are no longer what they were. Italian officials have talked about limiting the number of tourists to the Cinque Terre to control the impact of tourism.
In June our friends traveled to Tuscany with us. While there they wanted to head to the Liguria region to see the Cinque Terre. Wanting to be with our friends we put aside our dread of the crowds of Cinque Terre and went along. We hopped on a boat in La Spezia (more on this town in the future) and travelled first to Portovenere.
Portovenere
As the boat approached the shores of Portovenere everyone stood up, cameras in hand, to get a glimpse of the beautiful Church of San Pietro, the ancient wall, and the fort. Lining the shore is the colorful town filled with restaurants, gelaterias, and cafes. Streets were busy with tourists and locals walking along the seaside, taking in the sites, eating and drinking. While it was more crowded than when we first started visiting it still seemed to be manageable.
The gorgeous scenery and views of Portovenere impressed all of us on the boat. The Bay of Poets is a gorgeous site, a beautiful example of what the Italian Mediterranean coast has to offer. At the end of the town of Portovenere the 13thcentury striped granite church melts into the sea. The ancient wall, leads your eye from the church to the fort on top of the hill.
Opposite the Bay of Poets (named after Percy Byron Shelley and Mary Shelley who lived there before Percy Shelley died swimming in the bay) is Byron’s Grotto. The Grotto, named after Lord Byron, who used to meditate and draw inspiration on the rocks in the Grotto. Byron’s Grotto offers stunning views of the cliffs and rock formations below the Church of San Pietro.
There are so many beautiful memories for us here so I might be a little biased…
The Cinque Terre
The ferry continues down the coast and passengers crunch together trying to see each town as it reveals itself. On the ferry people were pushy and aggressive trying to make room on the best part of the boat. Some late arrivers could be quite pushy trying to get better seats in front. The ferry was so crowded it was impossible to get good photos during most of the trip. The beautiful Italian homes speckled the coastline as we approached the towns of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazaa and Monterosso.
As the ferry pulled up to each port lines of people waited to board each arriving ferry. They were all anxious to explore the different cities. The colorful Italian buildings tumble down from the mountains to the seashore, as if they were lava from a volcano. The view from the boat is completely charming when you look beyond the crowds.
We decided to get off the boat at Vernazza so we could see each town from the boat. In the past Vernazza was our favorite with restaurants atop the cliffs offering spectacular views. Each town offers something a little different. Some of the towns are great for watching cliff divers. Others for sitting on the beach watching the waves hit the shore. All of them are incredible feats of early Italian architecture. They were built by brave souls who understood the value of privacy and location.
Vernazza
As we left the ferry in Vernazza we passed an incredibly long line of people waiting for the ferry. From there restaurants and cafes fill the seashore leading to the sandy beach and ancient church. Authentic restaurants, and quaint local shops are now souvenir shops and touristy restaurants. The true Italian experience has given way to the almighty tourist dollar. We tried to get off the path and hike up to one of the cliff top restaurants. Each restaurant was completely full of people so we decided on the one at the top of the hill with the shortest wait. Despite it being jam packed with people the food was pretty authentic (not the best in Italy but definitely worth eating) and the service was entertaining and efficient. The views were fantastic as we looked across to the fifth town of Monterosso.
With just enough time to eat and get in line to catch the ferry returning to La Spezia we paid our bill and headed back to the shore. J and I were sad to see the changes over time to these quaint and beautiful cities. I can only hope the government finds a way to balance the onslaught of tourists with the ability to support the locals and share their beautiful heritages.
If you want to get to the Cinque Terre you can go by ferry, train or hiking. Any of the modes of transportation taken requires a little patience. The trails are stunning but do not have railings so if you are traveling with children make sure they are very mature so they can understand the risks of the trail running along the top of the cliffs.
One thing I would suggest is taking the ferry but not disembarking in any town other than Portovenere or La Spezia.
Last year someone told me they thought I was running away from my life by traveling full time-living as a digital nomad. At first I questioned what they said. Could there be any truth in their words? I have never thought of myself as someone who runs away from problems. So how could I have been running away from them for years and not known it.
Then, I had this realization that in fact I wasn’t running away from my life, I was running towards it. For me living as a digital nomad isn’t an escape from life, it is an opportunity to live it to the fullest. Everyday I travel I feel more alive than I do when I am not traveling.
There is a perception that as full time digital nomads we have no problems. Life is easy and everything is wonderful. But in fact this isn’t the case. I still have bills to pay- I still have to earn money, and find jobs. Dealing with social issues (like having no one but J. to socialize with for months on end sometimes). We get up early in the morning to catch flights/boats/trains/cars/buses, we cook meals, keep up with family, etc. It is more glamorous to do all of this from beautiful beaches, or amazing mountaintops. I am completely grateful for the ability to live my life from these places. But even as full time travelers we all have responsibilities.
I still worry about things (I am working on that for 2019!). I miss my friends and family while I am away. We choose to dive into my life head first, take the risks and live my dreams. For me running away from life would be working in a job I hate and watching the days of my life slip away. For some people this is security, this is happiness but not for me. I thrive in the unknown, in the adventure and the possibility. In my soul there is a burning need to see the world, experience new cultures and landscapes, hear the sounds of foreign languages and figure out currency exchanges.
There have been points during our travel where I wished I could be a woman who was happy in the same house for 20 years, with the same job, the same routine- but I am not. I tried and it doesn’t fit. I am happy with 19 currencies in 9 months, with 10 languages and religions in the same amount of time. Many full time travelers tell me the same thing, they couldn’t do anything but this, it is their life. While we go to exotic places and see exotic things we are not free from worry. Our lives still have stress and issues. We are choosing to live our lives on our terms, in the places we feel at home, doing what makes us feel whole.
As a nomad I am choosing to risk security for a life I am proud to live. For one that excites me, invigorates me, challenges me and makes me proud.
If your life is better lived in the security of a home and stuff and an office job I applaud you for living it. But mine isn’t.
So, let’s make a promise. I will be happy and supportive of you and all you do, and you do the same for me. By doing so we are being the best people we can be, supporting each other, and enjoying the happiness we see in others.
If you aren’t living your life on your terms, and make comments like this out of envy or frustration-I understand. I truly do. I have made them at one time in my life too. But now I have decided to take a different turn, and do what makes me happy and fulfilled. I wish the same for you.
Try it. Do one thing that moves you towards whatever the life is you want, and I promise you I will be here cheering you on!
Looking for the best gifts for the traveler in your life? Here are my recommendations for the best gifts for anyone who loves to travel, whether they are just getting started or are on the road all year like me. You can’t go wrong with any of the gifts in my holiday gift guide this year. Most of them I couldn’t live without and a few of them I am hoping to get this year!
Ogio Backpack-Even though it is a little heavy on its own this backpack is perfect for traveling. I have carried it around the world for 2 years and it still looks brand new! It is stylish yet super functional with tons of pockets to organize everything I need.
Tile-My best friend bought this for me last year. I love carrying it in my Ogio backpack so I always know I can find it if something should happen to it.
Moleskine notebook-I am obsessed with Moleskins. I have a large one I use to document my trip, write down our itineraries etc. Then I always have small ones on me for notes, lists (I LOVE making lists), and writing story and blog ideas. Add the Moleskin pen and you have the perfect gift for anyone!
Scratch Map-I bought this for J. last year. When we settle down again it will be so cool to scratch off the countries we have been to and plan for the ones still on our list.
LL Bean Hanging Toiletry Kit-This is a staple for everyone in my family. My stepmom started buying them for us years ago and now we are all hooked! Love the small hanging bag that comes out and hangs in the shower. It makes it so easy to re-pack when it is time to leave.
AppleTV-We started carrying this with us this year and it made such a difference. Sometimes travelers need to chill out too, it is easy to get overstimulated when we are out discovering the world. Our AppleTV was perfect for the countries where English movies aren’t an option.
itunes Gift Card-Music, books, and movies…what more could anyone want?
Blunt Metro Umbrella-My sister bought this for J. last year and we are now obsessed. It is the perfect size to carry in a small backpack, it is so well made, and totally holds up to crazy storms. Now I just need one…
Peace & Calming Essential Oil-I am not exaggerating when I say that I never leave home without this oil. It is amazing for my flight anxiety, for days when I just can’t get it together or just want to re-center. I LOVE this stuff!
Insignia Splitter-We have used a splitter since we got our first iPad. With the Insignia Splitter makes watching movies together possible no matter where we are.
Macbook Pro– couldn’t survive without this amazing machine.
Anker PowerCore 1000 -This has saved us many times when we didn’t have access to charging stations. There is nothing worse than needing to look up your next destination info and having a dead device. No traveler should be without one.
GlocalMe Hotspot-Unfortunately having internet access is a necessity when traveling and while it is more available in other countries than it is in the States there are still times when we need to get online to make arrangements or notify our next Airbnb host our boat or train is late. After 2 1/2 years of traveling without one we finally broke down this year and bought a mobile hotspot.
Calpak Luggage-This Calpak luggage has traveled with me for over 3 years. It has been to over 25 countries in the world. I love it!
Bialetti Moka Express-This little coffee pot travels everywhere with us now. Decaf cappuccinos or espresso are all I drink so this little pot lets me have the perfect cup of coffee no matter where we are.
Tuscany is full of enchanting towns so it is hard to pick favorites. If I had to make a list Pietrasanta would be in the top five. Known for the artists who moved to Pietrasanta throughout its history Pietrasanta is well loved by Italians and tourists alike. Everything in Pietrasanta shows off the creative influences on this beautiful city, from the churches to the Piazzas and the sculptures throughout the city. Pietrasanta is one of the most welcoming city in Tuscany, the large piazzas, wide streets, delicious restaurants, great art exhibits, history and shopping Pietrasanta never disappoints.
What To Do In Pietrasanta
My favorite spot in Pietrasanta is Piazza Duomo. The large piazza sits under the incredible Apuan Alps with a fortress standing guard under the beautiful blue Italian sky. Restaurants and cafes line the perimeter of the Piazza with tables full of people drinking, eating and relaxing. It is the perfect embodiment of what Italy is. The piazza has rotating art exhibits throughout the year as well. We had a beautiful lunch here in one of the contemporary restaurants.
Duomo Of San Martino
The Pietrasanta Duomo of San Martino and Bell Tower are in the Piazza Duomo as well. The front of the Duomo is understated, holding the secret of what is inside. When we stepped through the front doors of the 14th century building we were completely transfixed. The incredible statue of Jesus is one of the most emotionally expressive statues of Jesus I have seen. Its marble configuration shows the value the Italians place not only on religion but also on art. Hanging from the ceiling is an incredible coat of arms, immaculately positioned and constructed. As we made our way through the church we were constantly stopping to point out the carvings, the stairs, the altar, the capitals, and the quiet sophistication which was completely unexpected.
Bell Tower
The Bell Tower is just to the left of the Duomo. We peaked inside, not eager to climb to the top on a hot summer day. What we found was an architectural masterpiece. The spiral stairs create a perfect seashell affect as the brick winds its way from the bottom to the top. For centuries people have been in awe of this mathematical wonder designed by Michelangelo.
Palazzo Pretorio
The Palazzo Pretorio served as the old Captain of Justice. Inside were many small art exhibits, all leading out to the main courtyard. Here we were able to take in more sculpture but also to see the grandeur of what this building once was. There are a few remaining pieces of the frescoes which would have adorned the entire space. I couldn’t help but sit for a while and imagine what it must have been in centuries past.
The Church Of Saint Agostino
I loved this church. The frescoes inside were beautiful but the church showed its wear. It is a shell of what it used to be, but the humble space now holds beautiful art exhibits. When we were visiting there was a beautiful sculpture of a mother breast feeding in the center of the church. Behind the altar were more paintings of mothers feeding their babies. The contrast between the modern art and the ancient church was fantastic. What struck me more was the homage they paid to the beautiful relationship between a mother and her child. I was moved by the space and the communities dedication to exhibiting art that speaks to its viewers.
Shop & Dine
I love the shops in Pietrasanta. The creativity is so welcoming and inspiring. The shop owners are all happy to show off their unique products, many made by locals. There are some great little bars, coffee shops and restaurants along the way, so take your time, shop, drink and eat-you won’t regret it.
Forte dei Marmi and Beach of Marina di Pietrasanta
Pietrasanta is only 2 miles from the coast so if you have a car, or want to hop in a taxi take a ride to the Beach of Marina di Pietrasanta and visit Forte dei Marmi. The Italian coast varies so much from town to town it is always worth spending time in as many as possible. Forte dei Marmi is a fashionable town with great clothing markets and coffee shops so bring some money and be prepared to shop.
While I have never been up the hill I have it on my to do list the next visit to Pietrasanta. On the hill is the Guinigi Palace and Rocca di Sala. While you can’t enter the Guinigi Palace the 600 year old building provides a great place to view the city from above.
One of J.’s favorite places in the world is Carrara. He loves the history, the industry, the artistry and the natural beauty of Carrara. From our first visit 11 years ago he has been entranced with the process of pulling Carrara marble from the mountainside. This year while traveling with friends, staying in Lucca, it was mandatory there be a visit to Carrara, Italy.
Taking the train to La Spezia it is impossible not to see the Carrara mountains from the tracks, or from the highway. The white covered mountains tower over the city and stand in stark contrast to the vibrant blue Tuscan sky. At first it seems the mountains are snow covered until someone points out that it is in fact just the white Carrara marble.
In the 1400’s Michelangelo sat for eight months waiting for the perfect piece of marble to carve one of the greatest works he ever created, Pieta-the Virgin Mary in St. Peter’s Basilica. There are letters he would send back to Rome complaining about how long he had been waiting there for this piece of marble. For us this is a really incredible story and experience, sitting where this master of art sat, and watching the same process (granted it is more modernized now) as he did.
Eleven years ago when we visited Carrara we were able to get really close to the operations, now they have started to block some of the paths to protect tourists. J. drove our little Fiat 500 off-road, determined to get as close as possible. He climbed the mountain in the little car and reached an area of marble dust and beautiful green trees. The view into the valley was stunning, gorgeous little town, deep valley, beautiful trees, and sharp mountains were all waiting to be taken in by anyone daring enough to make the trek.
Each day semi-trucks drive to the top, their beds are loaded with massive slabs of beautiful Carrara marble and then slowly the trucks drive down the windy, narrow roads with these massive slabs, through long dark tunnels, carved out of the mountains hundreds of years ago, over an amazing bridge and into the town of Carrara where they are then further processed to their final destinations. It is quite an impressive operation and one definitely worth seeing.
A short drive from Carrara is also the small town of Colonnata, famous for its production of the delicacy known as Lardo. As a vegetarian Colonnata isn’t the best place for me to eat, and I think it would be impossible for a vegan, but J. insists on partaking every time we visit. The town is tiny but packed with charm and breathtaking views of the Apuan Alps. The ancient stone buildings tightly packed together along the tiny cobblestone streets quickly whisk you away from reality, and seem to wrap their arms around you inviting you to stay.
Lying below the Colonnata and the Carrera marble quarry’s is the city of Carrara. Eleven years ago we were able to watch as the sculptors transformed the pieces of marble into beautiful masterpieces. Now this has been closed off to tourists, however the town does host events where sculptors will come out into the streets for people to watch them as they create incredible pieces. This year there was a week long competition on the street with artists working with their hands, and lasers (which was kind of disappointing) to create beautiful works of art.
The city of Carrara has some nice shopping, beautiful views of the Apuan Alps, nice Piazza’s with beautiful sculptures and handsome buildings. We always stop and walk around, then have a coffee before getting back on the highway to Lucca.
Getting There:
Getting to Carrara from anywhere in Tuscany is quite simple. Take the A1 Autostrada follow the signs to Carrara. There are signs to Colonnata so just follow those and you will see the marble quarries and then can continue on to Colonnata from there. Follow the signs back to Carrara and then to the Autostrada from there.
I have to give credit to J. for almost all of the pictures in this post. Pretty good isn’t he?!
When we are in Tuscany we always stay in Lucca. It feels like our home but it is also a great location for tons of day trips. This year we wanted to show our friends Montecatini Alto, one of our favorite little cities. So we caught a train from Lucca, about a 35-minute ride to spend our day sightseeing in Montecatini. We used to drive to Montecatini so this was our first train ride. It was so easy. We got off of the train at the Montecatini Centro Station to begin our sightseeing in Montecatini. It was our first time in Montecatini Terme and we were completely taken by surprise.
Our plans had been to walk through town to catch the funicular up to Montecatini Alto. So we got off the train and started walking straight up the main road but were quickly distracted by the incredible Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings lining the street. With beautiful green spaces, a swan fountain and stunning stained glass rotunda on one of the buildings in the park I was instantly in love. Across the street is the City Hall, a very majestic building from the outside, but inside even more impressive with frescoed ceilings, beautiful stained glass skylights, an incredible iron staircase and art exhibit featuring some Miro work. As my senses were in overload, I really was in shock that I had missed this town before with such a treasure of different architecture.
As we continued our walk to the funicular another incredible Art Deco building with dramatic overhangs, and carved men mixed in with murals on the walls was spotted on the left hand side of the road. It stands alone after the park just demanding one to stop and study it. (And of course check out the great shops inside.) The contrast to the normal Italian stone and plaster architecture was really stunning. Walking along, after making a nice purchase from this Uashmama, we couldn’t help but admire all of the green space in Montecatini Terme. It looks like mini forests on either side of the road.
Then, we spotted another big surprise, this very grand looking building stood at the end of the road. With its massive pillars and large scale the building looked like a grand old palace. In fact it is a gorgeous thermal bath where visitors can relax in the pools, and saunas, have lunch and in the evenings attend a concert. The facility is absolutely gorgeous, open aired with murals on the ceilings and incredible marble works. It is definitely on my list to return here and get lost for the day in old world Italian luxury.
Now that we had all been wowed, and literally come to the end of the road it was time to catch the funicular up to Montecatini Alto for a more typical Italian town and a great lunch. As you know where there is a funicular J. must ride it. Since this one felt like the one that got away he was pretty excited. The views from the cars was beautiful- you know, your typical rolling green hills, gorgeous Tuscan homes, beautiful olive trees and stunning Italian villages were as far as the eye could see. When you spend time in Tuscany it is immediately obvious why it claims such a special place in people’s hearts.
Montecatini Alto
Montecatini Alto is a very small village. Walking into the main square we passed by old stone and plaster houses which look straight out of a movie set, gorgeous oranges, yellows, browns and greys with terra cotta roofs against the bright blue Tuscan Sun. The smell of garlic guided the way to the square where about eight restaurants, with tables and umbrellas filling the square, to choose from. We have one which we are partial to so we took our seats, ordered wine and food and then sat back to relax and take in the buildings, the people and the calmness of this quaint city.
The only thing to really do in Montecatini Alto, aside from eat and have coffee is to walk through the town. There are incredible views of the surrounding countryside, a lovely little church, and really picturesque houses and old buildings. There are cats lounging in the windows, kids running down the streets and local gardens all along the way. It is a wonderful way to get lost in what Italy really is, away from the cities, the tour buses and the souvenir shops.
As always happens when I leave Montecatini Alto a little piece of my heart stays there until next time.
Cyprus is packed with things to see and do. So during our nine day trip on the island we kept pretty busy with day trips in Cyprus. The historical sights of Cyprus are phenomenal but so are the monasteries, churches and diverse landscape. My first post about Cyprus covers the historic and natural sights, this post is all about the churches, monasteries and landscape. These are really what took me by surprise. I had anticipated the history knocking my socks off but not the painted churches, the mountains or the monasteries.
While in Cyprus I think it is pretty mandatory to rent a car, unless you plan to just veg on the beach at a resort and walk to restaurants close by-but man would you miss out! Driving around Cyprus wasn’t the easiest. Our navigation often got very confused, as did we. So while there were a few tense moments (you know those when one of you is driving and the other giving directions along with the GPS and you still get turned around), it is worth it to have the freedom to get around and see the whole island.
Cyprus is interesting because while it is one nation, an EU nation, the northern section of the island has been claimed by Turkey. It has not been a friendly takeover. The EU and most of the rest of the world do not recognize the land as Turkey’s, certainly the Cyprus government does not either. Unfortunately this means it is difficult to see any of the sights on the northern part of the island (our car rental company said we were absolutely forbidden to take our car into the Turkish territory). Therefore, our visit was contained to the southern portion of the island.
The mountains in Cyprus range from dry, desert looking mountains (think California) to tree covered mountains (think West Virginia), there are also sections where the mountains are packed with gorgeous evergreens, creating a lush green carpet across the peaks and valleys. We loved traveling through the mountains taking in the gorgeous views and small villages. We were even waved down by a restaurant owner one day to come in and try her homemade lemonade and relax in her spectacular view of the mountains and valleys below.
Aside from our nature tours these are the sights we took in during our visit:
The Painted Churches
Agios Nikolas tis Stegis
Cyprus has over 60 painted churches of importance from the Byzantine era. We chose to see the ones in Troodos region. In the Troodos area there are 10 UNESCO protected Byzantine era churches and monasteries. Each one is important for the murals which cover the churches interiors. Each church still serves as a place of worship or other religious practices.
Aside from all of the important historical, architectural and artistic contributions what I found were these incredibly humbling buildings created with obvious care and dedication. They were usually very small, simple in their construction, and aside from the incredible murals on the walls they bore no decoration. The paintings, generally done by monks, were obviously created with nothing but love and dedication. They show the various artistic and religious influences of the times which make the experiences all the more genuine.
Trooditissa Monastery
Driving to the Trooditissa Monastery was breathtaking. The journey from Paphos took us through lush green mountains, a few quaint little towns and a couple of pretty tight turns. As with all monasteries in Cyprus Trooditissa is located on the top of a mountain. There are fantastic views from the monastery and the drive there and back.
The monastery itself was built in the 1700’s. We were not allowed to enter but were allowed to walk around the grounds a bit, and then visit the incredible church. Even though the church is small it really packs a punch. The entire interior is covered in gold, paintings and ornamentation. We were all wowed by it (since it was our first Greek Orthodox Church we didn’t know it is pretty customary for them to be filled with gold and ornamentation with incredible chandeliers). Inside the church is a priceless silver-leaf icon of the Virgin Mary from Asia. People who are having difficulty getting pregnant come to the church to pray before the icon and it is said they are able to conceive afterwards.
Tip:
In one of the little towns there is a little chocolate shop run by a Sri Lankan woman. We can all highly recommend stopping and taking a few pieces home with you!
Tip:
This monastery is in the Troodos region so visiting some of the painted churches as well makes a great day trip. The painted churches do close by 4:00 so plan accordingly.
The Holy Monastery Of Stavrovouni
The views from the top of the mountain where the Holy Monastery of Stabrovouni is located are absolutely incredible! Troodos’ landscape is more desert than the pine forests of Troodos which is a great contrast. At a look out point from the monastery we were able to see across the island to the town of Larnaca and on to the sea. It was stunning!
Women are not allowed to enter the Holy Monastery of Stavrovouni since it is a working monastery. If you still want to head up there, which I recommend just for the views alone then make sure not to go during the mid-day as they close completely for lunch and prayer.
From the outside the monastery is quite impressive, standing like a fortress overlooking the island. Brown stones make up the building facade, creating a majestic contrast against the black rock and desert landscape. Next to the monastery is a small chapel and more incredible views.
Tip:
From here we headed down to the Kalavasos-Tenta settlement. You can read more about it in this post.
Kykkos Monastery
This is definitely the most famous and most crowded monastery in Cyprus. The original building burned down, and there have been several fires throughout time. The current building was erected in the 1970’s. Incredible murals, mosaics and architectural details fill the monastery buildings.
The church itself is jaw dropping. As we found in other churches it is filled with paintings, gold ornamentation and chandeliers. I found the mosaics and murals to be more interesting. Each one is unique and expressive of the beliefs of the monks.
Three icons attributed to Apostle Luke are held in the monasteries collection. Emperor Komnenos had taken his daughter to the hermit Isaiah who was able to heal her. In exchange for healing the Emperor’s daughter he asked for the icon and was reluctantly given it by the Emperor, along with funds to build the monastery to house the icon, in the second century. Other treasures worth seeing in the museum, include one of the oldest books I have ever seen, and I have seen ALOT of old books.
Kykkos monastery produces Zivania spirit and other liquors which they sell on the property.
After we saw the monastery we headed further up the mountain to a newly erected Tomb of Makarios. The building was really impressive and the views were amazing! Driving through Troodos to visit the monastery was absolutely beautiful. It is fully of windy roads with some hairpin turns which makes the trip a fun adventure.
While I am not a religious person I really enjoyed the churches and monasteries of Cyprus for their historic, architectural and artistic beauty. Visiting each one took us through the beautiful landscape of the island which we would not have seen otherwise. This made it worth every minute, and every hairpin turn.
Cyprus is packed with ancient history. The lure of ancient settlements, mosaics, beautiful coastlines, ancient churches and monasteries meant we had to visit. What we found was so much more than we could have imagined. The island is rich with artifacts, diverse landscapes, incredible sea views, good food and adventure. Our plans to visit Cyprus were put on hold this year until a last minute change in travel plans meant we back on schedule to visit the Mediterranean island.
I didn’t have much time to plan, about 24 hours so we arrived not really knowing what to do, how to get around, where to eat, or what we must see. We were traveling with our best friends so the four of us dug into the guide books, travel blogs and maps to chart our course for the nine day trip. It was really fun to do it this way, each of us brought our unique interests to the group so we managed to experience an array of things.
We rented a car for the trip as it is really the only way to get around the island. After arriving at 11:00 at night, and working with the Europcar staff for half an hour we finally found our destination on Google maps and we were off. Through the pitch dark we navigated a crazy route through tiny roads, sharp turns and what seemed like the middle of nowhere, this would be a theme for us for the next nine days.
At about 1 am we arrived at the beautiful home we rented on Airbnb. After many attempts to open the gate to the house we failed. Two of us squeezed through the crack in the gate, made our way to the house while the two guys passed the luggage over the top of the gate. It was quite the scene with our 50 lb bags and carry ons! Once in the house we sat down at 2 am and shared a bottle of beautiful wine from Montenegro and crashed at 4 am.
Needless to say we all slept in. Our first day was spent leisurely around the house, sitting by the pool, and grocery shopping. The second day was when the exploring began. These are the top things you must see when you visit Cyprus:
Sea Caves
Honestly, we had no idea what the sea caves were. We knew our house was half a mile from them and that they came up on every Cyprus search we did for things to do. All four of us being scuba divers the lure of caves in the sea was very intriguing. What we found was not at all what we expected but definitely as beautiful as we hoped.
The white sandstone cliffs of the island fall dramatically into the water along only in this part of Cyprus. Over the years the waves have eroded the sandstone and created “caves” or crevices in the cliffs. It is incredibly dramatic to see. We drove along the cliffs one day and found a boat wreck against the caves.
The erosion continues to this day. In fact it is highly recommended not to walk too close to the edge and definitely not to park a car there. A few years ago an entire chunk fell off and took the parked cars right along with it. In certain places there used to be markers to keep people from standing too close to the edge but many of those have also slid off the edge in erosion!
Tombs of the Kings
Just outside of the city of Paphos is a large archaeological park called the Tombs of the Kings. I wasn’t sure what to expect when we visited and in some ways was disappointed and in some ways amazed. Most of the area is pretty much in ruins, largely due to the fact that many of them are from the 4th century BC! The park is larger than I had anticipated, requiring a lot of walking. No big deal but it is super hot so make sure to bring water, that was the big mistake we made. Most of the landscape was just sand and dirt, with a few flowers or grasses in random places. There was however a beautiful ocean view.
Now the part that was amazing. These tombs are not only thousands of years old but are quite an architectural feat for the time. Sometimes it felt like we were just looking into dug out holes in the earth but when we thought of the complexity of digging all of these tombs into the landscape, and often putting them in complex underground buildings you start to really appreciate what you are seeing.
There are no fancy columns here, or massive buildings so don’t expect that. What you do see is an incredible example of what life and burials were in the 4th century. There are a few frescoes remaining and few Doric columns to be seen in a few of the tombs. Which are really impressive when you consider the date they were made.
It is definitely worth seeing this incredible UNESCO heritage site when in Cyprus! Just make sure to bring water and read up before you go to really appreciate what you are seeing.
Paphos Mosaics
After the Tomb of the Kings we drove to the Paphos Mosaics. These were one of the highlights of our trip to Cyprus. These incredibly well preserved mosaics are located in the Archaeological park next to the Paphos harbor. They are spread over a fairly large area, so again take water!
The mosaics were discovered by a farmer and since then Cyprus has done an incredible job preserving the mosaics and continuing to discover more and more along with drainage systems all dating back to the third and fifth centuries AD. The House of Dionysus contains almost 6,000 square feet of preserved floor mosaics in 14 different rooms. The intricate designs are breathtaking. The House of Thesus and Orpheus and Aion also house incredible floor mosaics all so well preserved it is almost impossible to believe they are that old.
As we walked through the park it was astonishing to see the various mosaic examples in the grounds some with ancient columns still standing nearby. I think they are the oldest example of such colorful, intricate, well laid and preserved mosaics in the world. I spent so much time here just studying the designs, learning what they stood for and imagining what their world must have been thousands of years ago.
Church Of Lazarus
In my explorations of the world I have learned that the temples, churches or mosques are always worth touring, whether you are a religious person or not. They are always where the money was spent in ancient times whether it was for redemption of sins, or to honor God, Allah or Buddha. For this reason the Church of Lazarus was a must see.
In the seaside town of Larnaca the stone church sits dramatically amongst souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes. If we didn’t know the significance of the church it would have been easy to just appreciate it for the incredible Byzantine architecture. The original structure of the church was built in the 10th century. The simple stone interior is decorated with massive paintings, intricate gold work, and an incredible, massive chandelier.
Beneath the church is the tomb of Agios Lazarus. According to the bible he was a friend of Jesus Christ whom he brought back from the dead. There are many artifacts, marble sarcophagus and other tombs under the church as well. In 1589 the Ottomans took over Cyprus and turned the church into a monastery. Eventually it was sold back to the Orthodox community who have maintained possession of it ever since.
It is definitely worth the trip to see the church, just make sure you cover up before you enter. I had covered my head and shoulders but not my knees and was called out and sent outside to wrap more of the cover ups outside around me.
(Larnaca is one of the 20 ancient cities in the world which has been continuously inhabited. People have been living there for the last 4,000 years!)
Kalavasos-Tenta Archaeologic Site
Discovered in 1947 this 9,000 year old settlement is covered by a large, beautiful tent structure to protect it from the elements. The round houses (now visible only by the stones in the ground) were all built closely together. Originally there would have been a wall around the settlement. It was so fascinating to walk along the raised walkway looking at the footprint of the homes. Given the tiny size of the homes it is impossible to understand how they lived in them.
Standing under the tent, overlooking the entire settlement I was lost in thoughts about how far we have come in society. At certain points in my travels I find myself overwhelmed by how lucky I am to see the things I have seen. This settlement is one of those things I have seen. Interestingly it is not the prettiest or most elaborate thing but to understand more about the world history, to see how things were built well enough to last 9,000 years is just astounding.
The Kalavasos-Tenta site is a bit off the beaten path outside of Kalavasos village, in the Larnaca district. We asked locals for directions when our GPS got turned around and they were all more than happy to oblige.
Off Roading in the Akamas Penninsula
One afternoon we decided to take our SUV off road along the sea on the Akamas Penninsula. The desert landscape runs along the sea for miles. There are windy roads, gorges, no roads and rocky roads. A few bars and restaurants along the way and then just vast lands set again the hilly landscape. I love this part of the island for the contrast of the party life in Paphos and Larnaca. It is peaceful, undeveloped nature. We spent about two hours just driving along the coast line. There seemed to be a few paths to the sea so bring your bathing suit, and walk the paths for a swim to cool down in the summer heat.
Viklari, The Last Castle Restaurant
This is a must do in itself, not just a meal but an experience. The Last Castle is located along the Akamas Penninsula. It is in a very obscure location which adds to the insanely cool atmosphere. The restaurant only serves lunch until 5:00, I would book ahead to make sure you can get a table. We were lucky both times we visited as we didn’t have reservations but were able to get great tables along the edge of the castle ruins overlooking the sea.
The route to the restaurant is on a rocky windy road, at one point a U-shaped road barely wide enough to fit two cars dips down into a gorge and then back up again, once back up you will drive a bit further on rough road and then onto a very narrow road toward another gorge, then up a hill to the castle ruins. It sounds crazy but really it is pretty easy driving. The view up to the castle ruins doesn’t do justice to what you experience when you arrive.
The restaurant sits on the edge of the hill overlooking the sea. Each table is a large stone slab all situated under the lush grapevines (which had grapes dangling down when we were there). It is a reprieve from the Cyprus sun, and even though it is open air it is very comfortable even on a hot day. The menu consists of either rotisserie pork or chicken, salad and fries. For veggies they had an amazing lentil dish with salad. The food was delicious, the beer was cold and the service was great. The family run restaurant still maintains their roots no matter how popular they become. If you want your choice of the full menu then go earlier as they do run out of dishes towards the end of the day.
We loved our experience at The Last Castle we went twice and both times were just incredible. The unique location, grapevine covering, beautiful blooming flowers everywhere and rustic entrance transport you away from the rest of the world to a world you don’t ever want to leave.
Banana Spiders
Okay, so this wasn’t a tourist destination but it was definitely an experience. While drinking wine on the patio of our Airbnb one night a very large creature moved across the patio. J. jumped up to close the door to the house but the creature moved through the doorway before we could stop it. The other three of us jumped up to help remove this creature, massive banana spider (as large as our hand) from the house. As four grown adults jumped around, creating an obstacle course to remove the spider (there was a demand from the ladies to not kill it), the spider scrambled to find safety. Finally after about five minutes he found his way back outside. Crisis averted, we did not have to sleep outside.
Later when we headed to bed just by chance I looked by my bedside table and there was another one! J. and I freaked, then moved rugs, set up pillows along the floor to create a path to get him out the door. The concern was he would run under the bed and we would not be able to sleep in our bed but might have to go to the car for the night. Luckily this one escaped outside as well.
Thinking we averted the banana spider crisis altogether we all relaxed until a day later when our friends found one in their suitcase! After they removed the spider we all went about emptying our suitcases, checking for more, then repacking and zipping everything up. It made for quite the adventure!
There is so much to see in Cyprus I have to write two separate posts, so make sure to check out the post about the painted churches and monasteries in Cyprus.
