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Find The Most Authentic Christmas Market In Italy

Since we couldn’t go back to the States for Christmas this year (mandatory Civics class for our residency requirements) we decided to seek out the most authentic Christmas market in Italy. It was important for us to find markets not filled with mass produced products from China. After a lot of research, I narrowed it down to 3 markets in Italy. The first was the Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas market. This market is a bit different as it only runs for 3 days, not the usual month or more. Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas market is also unique because it consists of only handcrafted items. The over 200 exhibitors offer only handmade or hand grown (is this the right way to describe salame & prosciutto?) items.

Arriving at the Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas market required a few trains, the last of which was a small line that climbs through the mountains to deliver us to the tiny village in the valley of the Alps. To say this was a spectacular ride is an understatement. The train runs through mountains, along steep cliffs and windy turns. It is 45 minutes of non-stop gawking at the many waterfalls, snowy mountain peaks, small picturesque villages, and ancient arched bridges. Oh, and reindeer!

Our 3-day visit in the Valle Vigezzo was a combination of mishaps, incredible kindness and adventure. It started with our arrival at the Santa Maria Maggiore station. Each train station along the way is quite small, I mean like tiny house small, so when we arrived in Santa Maria Maggiore there was the ticket master and us in the small station. J. had decided we could just take a taxi to our B&B which was located about 1.2 miles out of town. When we asked the ticket master if he could call a taxi for us, he smiled and said “No Taxi”.

Okay, well here we are, a huge suitcase and no way to make it up the mountain to the village of Toceno where we were staying. Reaching into the depths of all of my Italian studying I managed to ask him to please call the B&B for us to see if they could retrieve us from the station. Kindly he agreed, did a google search and found the number. After a bit of a long conversation he was told that in fact there was no reservation for us and they had never heard of this station. It took a few more minutes of discussion when much to the delight of the ticket master he realized he had called Sicily. This brought many giggles and joking. Finally, he got us sorted and our host at the Le Vie del Borgo B&B came to pick us up.

In case you don’t know J. has yet to start learning Italian. I however, spend a good bit of time studying so when we discovered quite quickly that no one spoke English, no menus were in English etc. it was up to me to get over my hesitancy to speak and to let it rip-no matter how jumbled my sentences. This proved to be quite a blessing as the Le Vie del Borgo B&B owner and her family became our chauffeurs for the week. For 3 days we talked, learned and shared with this wonderful family. Our trip truly wouldn’t have been the same without them.

The Christmas Market

The first day of the Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas market was everything we dreamed a European Christmas market would be. There were chainsaw wood carvers, people playing music in the streets, Santa Claus (Babbo Natale), red roofed stalls full of crafts, gifts and food items. Hot chocolate, hot wine and hot tea were for sale throughout the city. What I didn’t expect was that each incredibly quaint building would be decorated in such a perfect way. No detail was overlooked. I didn’t expect it to be quite so cold. (Turns out that for 2 ½ months a year the sun doesn’t shine on Santa Maria Maggiore.) I didn’t expect the feeling that overwhelmed me of how incredibly lucky I was to be standing in this perfect little village, a resident of the country I love, living my life exactly the way I had always dreamed it would be. So, as I choked back tears of joy J. found a lovely little fire to warm our freezing hands and feet.

The first day of the Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas Market is definitely the best, not so many people allows one to enjoy the atmosphere a little more. So, we wandered the many streets taking it all in. Along the way large white tents were set up as dining areas where we ate locally made polenta with mushrooms and fresh pasta. The crowded dining areas only added to the warmth of the event.

While the Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas market is filled with visitors over the 3 days of the market, we never heard English spoken once. This didn’t mean it was difficult. In fact, the locals were wonderful about accommodating my poor Italian and Jim’s lack of Italian.

Each day we found ourselves at the market for one reason or the other. We would stand by the logs that had been cut to serve as fire pits and watch the Italians and Swiss purchase the fantastic handmade offerings. There were quite a few chuckles over the Italian renditions of American Christmas Carols but it only made the atmosphere more delightful.

The food was honestly fantastic. While J. was disappointed there weren’t stalls selling freshly made sausages, we did enjoy the local bread Stinchéet (a thin crepe type item with butter and salt on top), the delicious pizzas, and pastas. J. also enjoyed the deer pasta served at most restaurants, while I as the vegetarian and lover of Christmas ordered pizza instead.

On our last day as we walked the cobblestone streets taking in every bit of the atmosphere, we noticed the metal Chimney sweeps installed on the chimneys (Santa Maria Maggiore is famous for Chimney Sweep manufacturing). The stone roofed buildings giving way to the massive mountains behind, each covered in frost from the night before. Our experience in the Valle Vigezzo was filled with wonderful experiences so another blog post will have to describe all of that. Stay tuned!

Details:

How we got there: We chose to take the scenic train from Domodossola (trains regularly run out of Milan to Domodossola). The train line is the Centovalle Vigezzina. An absolute gorgeous ride on nice trains!

Where we stayed: We stayed in the village above Santa Maria Maggiore called Toceno. While it wasn’t as convenient as staying in the historic center the service, views, owners, comfort, quality and excellence made it worth it. The family gave us rides to where ever we needed to go, and made reservations for us at local restaurants. I can’t imagine staying anywhere else when visiting. The B&B was the Le Vie del Borgo-when you are there ask if they can cook for you one night-it is worth it to have Federica’s delicious local food and conversation!

Specifics: The Santa Maria Maggiore Christmas Market is only 3 days long each year. It seems to generally be scheduled on the first weekend in December, but check each year for specific dates and times. The first day is the least crowded. If you are taking the train in book online early as the train is very full those three days!

Sorano: The Italian Village You Must See

After our visit to Pitigliano we drove the 6km to explore the villages of Sorano and Sovano. We spent the night in the Hotel della Fortezza, (Hotel of the Fortress). I have stayed in some pretty cool places around the world but never have I stayed in a Medieval fortress. This opportunity sold J. immediately-as a true 6 year old at heart- the mere mention of a stay in a medieval fortress excited him. He was not disappointed as we made our way from the parking lot to the entrance of the fortress.

Still standing after 8oo years the fortress is more welcoming than it must have been to the soldiers approaching to attack the village. As we crossed the stone bridge (what used to be the drawbridge) we walked into the fortress. We walked under the death hole into the second area of attack. We continued under the fortress walls and into the courtyard to the hotel entrance. There is also the museum entrance and a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains. The three come together removing one from reality.

Now, we were pretty blown away already. I mean there are bits of the ancient frescoes still on the walls. Also well maintained artilleries and evidence of the medieval genius we see throughout Italy. But, these were nothing compared to what awaited us in our room. As I stated before we have stayed in a lot of incredible places around the world. Honestly, the view out of our hotel room was completely breath stopping. Positioned in the oldest part of the medieval fortress it offered some of the most spectacular views we have experienced in Tuscany.

Despite the cold, rainy day we opened the windows, and stood in awe. Below us the village of Sorano unfolded. Brown stone buildings carved from the Tufo (volcanic rock) collected together. It was as if each was holding the other on top of the hill. At the tip of the village is a large structure with a clock tower and terra-cotta viewing platform. This large structure is a solid piece of rock left to help fortify the city. Behind the city the green hills of Tuscany reveal evidence of the terraced farms that once supplied the local villages with food. There are also rocky caves that once served the Etruscans who inhabited the region.

The Fortress Tour

Luckily we bought tickets to the fortress tour. As luck would have it was done by a Brit-yay English and Italian!! No questionable Sheri translations.) The Orsini family built the fortress in the 14th century to fortify their position in the region. The death hole-a funnel shaped hole in the ceiling- was used to drop boiling liquids on any soldiers who made it to the opening of the fortress. The entrance is narrow, forcing armies into a small space where the boiling liquid could have the most impact. The soldiers who made it past the death hole then found themselves in a large room. Here holes in the walls allowed the defenders to shot at them with arrows. These pretty much guaranteed no one made it into the internal structure.

Underneath the walls of the fortress floor after floor, lead deeper into the earth. Holes were carved in the wall for ventilation, and for artillery. There were shoots where the garbage would be dropped and buried. Can you imagine making so little garbage that it could be buried in little holes? A self-sustaining organization survived in these halls for centuries, protecting the Orsini land. On one of the turrets a family crest is embedded and above it a cannonball is buried in the wall. Since most people didn’t read at the time it was a visual message (exaggeration) to show that the walls were so strong even cannonballs could not make it through. Ahh 14th century propoganda and marketing…

Dinner & Exploring

The warm fire burning in the dining room was too much to resist in the cold rain. So, for dinner we decided to eat the tasting menu at the Hotel della Fortezza. We sat in comfortable lounge chairs. Then spent the evening eating food sourced within 15 kilometers of Sorano. The wine we drank was produced just as close. It was fantastic. As the owner talked to us, we started on our second glasses of wine. We soaked in the atmosphere in the 800 year old laundry room. He pointed out the old sink left in the corner. Here they would have washed and the fireplace would have been used to heat the room. For us Americans this is a pretty big deal-an 800 year old laundry room! The food, atmosphere, wine and service made for an impeccable and romantic evening.

Sunday morning we woke to the sun shining on the medieval village- inviting us to explore-which we happily did. It is a small village-two main streets-but what it lacks in size it makes up for in charm and views. Surprisingly the monotone brown color of the stone buildings is spectacular set against the vibrant green landscape. We wound our way through the completely empty village. It was only 9:00 am Sunday morning-not a busy time on Italian streets in any town. For the hour we toured the village of Sorano it was as if we were walking through a piece of living history that belonged only to us.

Sovano

Curious to see more of the region we headed over to Sovano. A small village about 20 minutes drive. As I drove J. would demand I stop the car so he could try to take photos. We were winding through narrow roads bordered on either side by large cliffs of volcanic stone, and trees. We had entered an entirely different world. The beams of light allowed in by small gaps in the trees highlighted the red and brown tones in the dramatic stone cliffs. It created an aura of fall I have never experienced before.

When we arrived at the small town of Sovano I was seriously stunned by the weekend we had. As you know by now I love this country I now call home. Sometimes that love is so big it almost overflows. I feel as if I am floating. J. and I spend times like this walking around commenting about how lucky we are. We are blessed in this lifetime to experience such beauty, history, and incredible moments.

The even smaller village of Sovano was an extension of that. We walked into Piazza del Pretorio. Again brown stones created a small village, this one much closer to its Etruscan roots. After enjoying a coffee in the sun we took a moment to examine this two street village and the rolling hills surrounding it. Different from Sorano, Sovano has more restaurants, even though it is about a quarter the size of Sorano.

The Architecture of Sovano

At one end of the village is the duomo, Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore (Church of Saint Mary Maggiore). The simplicity of the cathedral proved that ornate is not always the best option. The small pieces of remaining frescoes elegantly decorate the beige stones. Ornate white capitals, each with a different design, grace the tops of the pillars. The cattle, etruscan figures and other carvings on the capitals each tell stories of the time. Pictures were used for the villagers who more than likely couldn’t read. The canopy over the altar is very precious. It is the one of the oldest, still intact, examples of this pre-romanic architecture.

When the church was remodeled in 2004 498 gold coins were found inside. They are now on display in the towns museum. It was the first town to become Christian due to S. Mamiliano who is attributed to the legend of The Count of Montecristo.

At the other end of the town is the ruin Rocca Aldobrandesco. Once used as a bakery, grain storage and provided water until it was dismantled in the 17th century.

This little town was one of the few towns able to hold on to its roots and culture after being occupied by the Romans. This makes it a very special example of the history of the region. Most buildings have beautiful blooming flower boxes, vines growing around the doors and are meticulously cared for. All of this creates an enchanting atmosphere.

I know that everyone coming to Italy wants to see the big cities, and famous landmarks. But to find the true Italy, to feel its soul it is worth getting off of the beaten path. Sit in the quiet streets engulfed in the generous and joyous culture of towns like Sorano and Sovano in Italy.

The Town Of Pitigliano-A Hidden Treasure

In October and November many towns throughout Tuscany have celebrations to introduce their new wine and olive oil. It is a great excuse for me to visit cities that have been on my wish list. The first one this season was the Tuscan town of Pitigliano.

From the first moment I saw a photo of the town of Pitigliano that was it. As with most things in my life, I set out to find a way to make it happen. Enter the wine and olive oil premieres for the 2019 harvest.

Location

The problem with Italy is this-there are too many incredible places to visit. Often when we talk to our friends (Italian or expat) they have never heard of places we are visiting. This is what happened with Pitigliano. Italians looked at me like I was confused when I told them where we were going. I checked my pronunciation, checked the spelling, and still the same looks of confusion. Then I started to think about it.

The town of Pitigliano is 3 hours from Lucca, positioned on the Tuscany/Lazio border. The amount of incredible towns to visit, thermal baths to soak in, wineries to tour, curvy roads to get lost on and rolling hills to stand in awe of makes it likely one might not make it to Pitigliano.

All the more reason I needed to go. The town of Pitigliano is located within an hour of Saturnia, Grossetto, Lake Balsena and Orvieto. It is 2 hours to Rome and almost 3 hours from Florence. Pitigliano is positioned on top of a hill betwixt many other hill top towns. Pitigliano has something these towns don’t.

The City of Tufo

Pitigliano is the city of Tufo. If you aren’t fluent in Italian, it is a reference to the volcanic stone from which the city is carved. Volcanic stone is soft. When you look at the town and realize how old it is, evidence has been found dating back to the Etruscan time (8th century BC to 2nd century BC), it is even more impressive.

J. and I drove from Lucca through Livorno so we could see a bit of countryside. The rolling hills, jagged rocks, and hilltop villages rolled by as we made our way to Pitigliano. As we drove closer to the village the roads became more snake like, each turn offering a unique experience. So when we turned a corner and J. exclaimed “Stop the car, pull over!” I didn’t get too excited, he had said this numerous times throughout the drive.

As I pulled over, and I looked to my right I was in awe. There it was, this incredible town, standing in the distance, demanding appreciation. The jagged tofu stone city appeared to melt into the lush green valley below. A natural contrast in texture and color. The rugged tufo stone supports a brown stone village. Each building topped with terra-cotta tiled roofs, most covered with various species of moss.

Behind us stood an elegant white church and the first of the occupied caves. A quaint wine shop making use of an ancient cave, completely unpretentious, tells an immediate story of what the town has to offer.

Inside the Centro Storico

The town of Pitigliano is small, the centro storico (historic center) consists of two main streets. If each inch didn’t offer so much charm it wouldn’t take more than 30 minutes to make it from one end of the town and back. But, it does. In fact, as soon as we walked to the first view point before entering the arch into the first of two large piazzas, we were under Pitigliano’s spell.

The main piazza is Piazza della Republicca. Here there are two incredible look out points, the massive arches with fountains, several restaurants and bars. It is here we ate dinner our first night. The town was celebrating harvest by hosting an open dinner with grilled meats, roasted chestnuts, and first wines of the season. Under the large white tent we sat together at bright orange tables eating until we couldn’t possibly eat anymore. The festive, communal spirit was undeniable as people laughed, drank and celebrated.

J. was enraptured watching the method they used to cook the meat. In a trough they burned the wood, then as needed the ashes were pulled into the grill section over which the meat cooked. The slow cooking of the meat over the ash allowed a smoky flavor without any charring. For J. it was complete perfection. I laughed as I drank wine wondering how I, the vegetarian, got to spend so much of my evening watching meat cook.

Truthfully though, aside from it being meat, it was amazing to watch the production, the skill and the synchronicity with which the men prepared so much food for the town. The fire added a warmth and charm to the cold and wet air surrounding us.

The Olive Oil

The next morning greeted us with a spectacular sunrise, highlighting the nights fog as it burned off the evergreens. The first sunny day in Tuscany in over a week greeted us and beckoned us to get outside. Grabbing the camera we set out to discover the town in the day light.

We found wine stores with ancient cellars, shops operating in the carved tunnels of the tufo rock, perfect little streets barely wide enough for two people, and views to stop you dead in your tracks.

We made our way to the opposite end of the city where there are remains of the original Etruscan walls, the ancient entrance to the city, and the ancient wash houses. On this side of town is the sweet church of San Rocco, rebuilt in the 1400’s with 700 year old frescoes, and hand painted crests behind the altar.

On Via Zuccarelli, is the Synagogue in the Jewish Ghetto. Jews in the 16th century were forced by state and local governments to move into ghettos. The government mandated they wear certain clothing to identify themselves as Jews. Looking for an easier way of life many Jews left Siena, Florence and other cities and came to Pitigliano. Here they established a community. During World War 2 the non-Jewish locals used the ancient caves to help protect the Jewish population from the Nazis. The non-Jewish citizens were steadfast in their determination to protect the Jewish population.

Okay, So Back To The Oil…

After walking around it was time for us to taste the new oil. We were pretty excited, especially J. as he has really been developing his palette. There were two rooms where the tasting was happening each beautifully decorated. They used things from nature to reflect the event-decorated simply and elegantly-like we so often see in Italy…

A man was there with the most amazing handmade cutting boards and beautiful olive wood products, so of course one had to come home with us. Seriously J. and I need to learn to control our affection for wood products. (might be a hopeless endeavor in Italy…)

Next the tasting. There were about 15 producers there, all small and local farms. We tasted only the biologic (organic) ones as I am a HUGE stickler for organic olive oil and honoring the tradition of olive production. It is amazing how much the flavors vary, some with strong pepper finish, some very earthy tasting and some quite simple with a light olive flavor.

I was so moved listening to the woman whose oil we loved the most talk about her dedication to the tradition, to the earth and to the health of people consuming her oil. (This could be why we took home four large bottles of hers…) Her mother was there supporting her, beaming with pride. It is people like this who will preserve what is special about Italy. (For my readers in Italy she does ship (email her) and her oil was seriously fantastic, with a light pepper finish.) We were also really happy with this one as well.

The Details

I can not recommend a trip to the town of Pitigliano enough. I think a weekend in just this town might be too long so I would recommend visiting many of the little towns around like we did. (Posts to follow soon) Pitigliano would make a good base if you wanted to stay one place for the evening.

We stayed at La Casa Degli Archi which is a group of several small apartments. It was very cute and characteristic of the area.

We weren’t able to visit the Orsini palace or Civic museum because they were closed. They both looked like they were worth the visit though. Also, don’t miss the Medici Aqueduct inbetween Piazza Repubblica and Piazza Garibaldi.

Next stop Sovana…

Are You Using Real Balsamic Vinegar?

Do you know the truth about your balsamic vinegar? To be honest I didn’t like balsamic vinegar very much before last weekend. I knew there was some that was aged for over a hundred years. There is also some for a few dollars on grocery store shelves. Now there are thicker glazed and infused balsamic on the shelves as well. To me it just seemed like no matter what, the balsamic just didn’t taste that great. Many dishes in America use way too much balsamic. Then, I went to a balsamic tasting and my whole opinion changed once I learned what real balsamic vinegar is.

The more I travel, the more I realize as consumers the wool is being pulled over our eyes by major corporations. Mass consumerism is destroying the food industry and as a result people are gaining weight and getting sicker. The reason for this, in simple terms, is that the role of food as a provider of nutrients, minerals, vitamins and balance in our digestive system has all but ceased. With the cheapening of ingredients and the increase in preservatives we are losing the necessary nutrients to fuel our bodies.

So, when I get the chance to learn about real ingredients I jump at the opportunity. Last weekend in Modena my friend booked us on a balsamic vinegar tasting. I was pretty excited since Balsamic is made in Modena.

Acetaia di Giorgio:

We arrived at Acetaia di Giorgio, just 2 km outside of the historic center of Modena, in the afternoon. I was surprised to see we were doing the tasting in a family home. The garden in front of the home was welcoming with its fountain, garden table and beautiful plants. We met the guide and the rest of the group and assembled to begin the tasting.

Acetaia di Giorgio is a family home, as it has been for 150 years. It is also the place where they manufacture real balsamic vinegar. Now at this point I still thought all balsamic was real. The home is enchanting with original mosaic floors, coveted terra cotta tile stairs and frescoed ceilings. Immediately upon entering the smell of the balsamic hung gently in the air. At once it was obvious that this families life revolves around the production of real balsamic vinegar.

Once we had all made it to the top floor of the Palazzo we sat down in the “manufacturing area”. One of the three rooms where all of the grape juice transforms into this precious liquid we call Aceto Balsamico di Modena (Balsamic Vinegar of Modena). In this cozy room, surrounded by 150 year old barrels, each covered with linen sewn and embroidered by the women in the family over the past 150 years, I fell in love with Balsamic Vinegar.

Each year the grapes are harvested and then pressed to extract the juices. The juices(must) of the grapes (lambrusco, and trebbiano) is then cooked over an open flame for several hours. This is done immediately after the grapes are pressed. The must decreases by about 50% during this cooking. The liquid is then poured into the largest of the small wooden barrels to begin its maturation for 12-25 years. As more of the liquid evaporates the liquid is moved to smaller and smaller barrels until it arrives at the smallest one. Before being bottled, the vinegar is tasted by a certified expert to make sure it meets the requirements for the certification of D.O.P..

Obtaining the D.O.P. certification is of the utmost importance to producers. D.O.P. means “Protected Origin Denomination”. It is given only once producers have proven they are continuing the production process as it was originally done. To buy a product with the D.O.P. certification means you are getting the real deal. The health benefits, flavor qualities and production methods are all as they have always been.

Here is the thing, the real rub for us as we learned. Most Balsamic Vinegar isn’t real. It is a combination of lots of sugar, caramel colorings, preservatives etc. and grape juice to speed up the process and make it en masse. The health benefits are lost as is the true flavor, instead it is more like a sugary syrup. Think Aunt Jemima vs. Maple Syrup.

The Truth:

Here is the thing that really made us angry. THE BALSAMIC VINEGAR AGED FOR 100 YEARS, SOLD FOR HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS IS A MISLEADING. I don’t want to get myself into trouble here, so I will leave it with this-read the label. Do the research before you invest in costly vinegars. The new glazes are not thickened with age, like real balsamic vinegar, they are thickened with chemicals, additives or other means. A real aged balsamic vinegar is thick and beautiful on its own without any additives.

Real balsamic vinegar is only bottled in the shape of the bottle in my photos. The fancy bottles, cool shaped bottles, etc. are not the authentic, real balsamic.

Real balsamic vinegar is good for digestion, and stomach issues. The fermentation of the grape juice is excellent for our bodies. As that tradition is lost to the big corporations we lose yet one more thing that is beneficial for our well being. While real balsamic vinegar can be expensive the amount needed in a dish is much smaller. The real balsamic lasts much longer than the mass produced stuff.

Each different flavor of balsamic (juniper, mixed wood, cedar, cherry), flavored only by the barrels they are aged in is unique. The complexity of each one was, interesting and beautiful. It was if I was tasting the passion of this family, the reverence for the craft and the history of the production.

Making real balsamic is a labor of love, passion, pride and tradition. When done right, when it is real you can feel each one of these in the richness of the balsamic.

How To Get Real Balsamic Vinegar:

Luckily you can order online and they will ship from Italy to where ever you are in the world. Get together with some friends, or buy it as Christmas presents…

Moving To Lucca Italy

27 years ago I stood on a bridge somewhere in Rome and declared that one day I was going to live in Italy. I was in college but I knew that Italy was my home. Ever since then I have subconsciously and/or consciously been working my way back to Italy. 14 years ago I found the town that would grab hold of our hearts and never let go. Through trials and tribulations we have never given up-because when you know where you belong you just know.

We wandered the earth for the last three and a half years and could never find another place that felt so right. So this summer we applied for our Visas to become residents in Italy. The three months we waited for an answer was not as grueling as I thought it would be. Somehow I knew in my soul that it was the right time. I knew that I was ready and felt like finally Italy was ready for me.

Then the last two weeks came upon us and we started to lose it. Not so much because we were afraid we wouldn’t get our visas but because we so desperately wanted to pack our suitcases and come to the place we feel is home. We were ready to unpack, to settle down and to get on with our dreams.

One morning I checked my email for a tracking update, not expecting any update. But, there it was the notification our passports would be delivered that day. I ran downstairs so overwhelmed with emotion my daughter-in-law thought something was terribly wrong. But there I was, a volcano of fear and excitement overflowing after waiting so long to realize my dream.

For 7 hours J. and I tried to keep busy in order to keep our minds off of the contents of the envelope. Would our passports be empty or would we open them to find the Visas we had been wishing for inside. Each car that passed the street caused butterflies in my stomach even though I knew it was too early for the mail delivery.

Eventually I decided to take a nap/meditate to pass some time. Then, just as I fell asleep J. heard the bang of the mailbox closing. All at once I wanted to stop him-I didn’t know what I would do if there were no visas in the envelope. Then, I gathered myself and knew it was all going to be the way we wanted it and I said-“What is taking you so long go get it!” I watched out the window as he made his way to the box, pulled out the envelope and then began his walk back into the house.

In a moment that moved quicker than any other moment of my life J. tore the envelope open, and inside were the two beautiful visas we had been waiting for, working for, and dreaming of. After celebratory drinks with our family, loads of phone calls and a few tears what we had always believed would happen began to sink in.

And now all at once our lives are changing again. So off we go, on our newest adventure to live the Italian life in the city where our hearts are full, and our lives are closer to dreams than reality.

(If you follow me to learn about travel destinations don’t worry, we will still be traveling and exploring the world.)

How Photography Has Evolved: Conversation With Thomas England

The more I travel the more my photography has evolved. I learn better in person so looking for tips online is frustrating.

Recently when we were visiting Lucca I found out a man we had met was offering photography classes. I signed up right away and spent a morning with him, learning by slideshow and then by practice.

After taking this course and talking to Tom, I became really curious about how the field of photography has evolved. Luckily Tom indulged my curiosity after the class and granted me an interview over cappuccino’s one Spring morning.

When Thomas S. England started taking pictures in the late 60’s the field was completely different. Photographers worked with reporters to take photos that complimented the reporters tone. They shot in film and then sent the rolls back to the client to be processed and combed over. Film was expensive, developing was expensive, and travel was expensive, so photographers had to hone their crafts quickly. There were rarely opportunities to re-shoot.

This meant photographers had to really know their cameras, their lighting, and their craft. As I think about that I realize how different it is from today and I am honestly a little jealous. To watch Tom use a camera is watching a craftsman with a tool that has become part of him. He holds it differently because he knows it differently. Those of us learning now have digital so our relationship with a camera will never be as intimate.

Tom reads a room, studies a scene and then follows the light, moving as it does. It was necessary to get it right the first time for so many years, without software to edit later. Again, I am a little jealous. Tom sees the world differently than me, he has to in order to be the photographer he is.

How It Began

As photography has evolved so did Toms career. He began photographing for a suburban newspaper in Chicago. His first assignment was shooting the Chicago Civil Rights and Anti-War protests. Eventually Tom went to work for People Magazine. This led him to eventually work with Time, Newsweek, National Geographic and The Carter Center. His resume reads like my dream list. Now he shoots for himself as he travels. He teaches courses for Emory University and for himself in his adopted hometown of Lucca, Italy.

The Stories

There is a calm about him as we speak. His humility surprises me as he tells stories. They vary from shooting Johnnie Cash, Joe Cocker, Jerry Lee Lewis, Jimmy Carter, and others. This was his life so perhaps it doesn’t seem as incredible to him as it does to me. I asked him what his most memorable shoot was: It was the 1968 Democratic Convention. He was intrigued by the violence and division among the people, and surprised by the political disconnect between the younger generation and the establishment. There it was so intensely playing out before him as he worked to convey the scene. I can imagine what it must have felt like to stand among the anger, the violence, and the standoffs.

What is interesting to me is that Tom says one of the biggest losses with the way photography has evolved is the personal connections, not just with the subjects people are shooting, or the situations but with the editors, and the reporters. During Tom’s career a person would travel to New York with their portfolio under their arm and request to see editors. They would show their talents and talk face to face. Relationships were formed, editors knew who to call to cover which events or people. They understood the photographer’s styles and perspectives.

While the personal connection has been lost so are the 4-5 cameras photographers would carry around their necks. That Tom does not miss. He loves the ability to capture the spontaneity in life with digital cameras, and to edit them later rather than missing a moment completely. After all for Tom photography was a way to see things in the world for himself. He wanted to gain an understanding of the world and world events through his own experiences, and then share them.

Now as a teacher Tom enjoys sharing his knowledge, and sifting through his images analyzing his work. He has enjoyed the challenge of learning how to turn it into teachable moments.

I asked Thomas if he would still choose photojournalism as a career now. After a long sip of his cappuccino he said he wasn’t sure he would. He realizes he would never be able to have the career he did because the field has changed too much. As much as he enjoys the modern technology the lack of connection and the overcrowding of the field would possibly be too discouraging. He recognizes that now to stand out a photographer must be a specialist in something. Their Point Of View must be defined.

As we wrapped up our interview it became clear that Tom was most proud of the work he did with The Carter Center. His admiration for the man Jimmy Carter is was evident from the moment he began to tell me about his experiences. This would explain why the most dramatic experience of his career was traveling to Palestine with the former President Carter. They were there for 10-12 days and Tom was able to cover the private meetings between Carter and other dignitaries. He was also able to shoot the election and stand in the midst of it-witnessing the emotional moment.

We couldn’t help but talk about some of the contemporary photographers which led us to discussing Pete Souza. Both of us shared our adoration for the job he has done covering the Obama’s. It is the thing Tom wishes he could have covered. After spending time with Tom I wish he had too. His humility and deep respect for the craft would have been a gift.

How To Find Him

If you find yourself in Lucca or the surrounding area take a few hours out of your vacation and take Tom’s class. I learned so much more than lighting. My perspective changed, and my overexposure decreased dramatically. Tom taught me to look at things from different angles, to study the lighting and to take my time. Photographs are about capturing moments. If we take our time we can capture unique moments even among the most iconic settings.

A perfect example is Tom’s favorite picture: Jerry Lee Lewis. The holes on the wall are from the albums Jerry Lee Lewis didn’t like. He would throw them at the wall. Sometimes they would stick there, artistic statements to Jerry Lee Lewis’ taste in music.

To read more about the class Tom England offers on Airbnb you can read my article here. Check out his class here or contact him directly here.

For some added inspiration spend some time on Thomas’s website. It is an amazing journey through time. Can you see how photography has evolved by visiting his site?

Feature Image is by Thomas S. England

Which City Is Better Innsbruck or Salzburg Austria?

The first night we spent in Innsbruck was unexpected. Our train arrived too late to make it to Lienz. This meant we had to spend the night in Innsbruck. Immediately I was enchanted. After spending three days in Salzburg I was anxious to compare which city is better Innsbruck or Salzburg. The three days in Salzburg and in Lienz made it obvious Austria was going to exceed every expectation I had. How would Innsbruck stack up?

The Landscape

The city of Innsbruck sits nestled in a valley surrounded by Alps. Every building in the city seems so small in comparison to the rugged ridge line surrounding the city. The mountains vary from jagged grey mountains to green sloping ridge lines. The effect is absolutely beyond belief.

Our first night in Innsbruck was spent at the Adler Hotel where we had dinner and drinks on the rooftop deck. Sitting in the natural surrounding of these glorious mountains we watched planes navigate into the small valley to land at the local airport. There is a beautiful contrast between the mountains, the old and new architecture, the funicular and the modern train lines all coming together in a natural paradise. We just couldn’t get enough of it.

The most important thing to J. was riding the Hungerberg funicular and the Nordkette cable car. So, on our first day that is exactly what we did. The ride up was spectacular. We rode through grass covered mountains where hikers and bikers pushed their physical limits to reach the unbelievable peaks. From there the cable car took us to the top peaks where we stood in snow, passing mountain goats along the way. Unfortunately for J. I did break into a rendition of The Lonely Goatherd multiple times. How could I resist with the adorable mountain goats of Austria watching our ascent?

As we stood in Hafelekar Peak I grew quiet, reflecting on how far I have come in my life, how lucky I am to experience these gobsmacking places, and how small I am in the scope of the world. Standing in shorts, shivering in the snow, avoiding goat poop, I was completely humbled by the beauty that exists in this world and the pure joy that comes from experiencing it.

The Architecture

I definitely had this image of the grandeur of the architecture in Austria. It was based on what I had seen in movies and photos over the years. I didn’t associate Austria with the quaint buildings, incredible iron signs, and gothic style. In fact, no matter how beautiful the buildings are, how charming the small streets lined with shops, cafes and restaurants are on their own they become more so due to the location inside the gorgeous valley.

We spent many of our days wandering the streets admiring the ironwork of the signs, the colorful buildings and picturesque neighborhoods. There is a real contrast in Innsbruck of small streets winding through the historic downtown and then a wide open promenade. The Maria-Theresien Strasse, transitions from the historic downtown to the newer downtown area. The buildings on the promenade are larger with colorfully painted ceramic details.

Old Town is dotted with Gothic mansions, beautiful church spires that rise up to meet the mountain peaks and small details left over from the reign of the Habsburgs. In Old Town it is all about the quaint little details like old signs, wood work and stone work. I loved the contrast! Everything in Innsbruck is within walking distance. We stayed in a great Airbnb across the river. It was wonderful to walk over the river and through the park everyday to get into the Old Town.

In Old Town you can’t miss the Golden Roof. It was built in the 1600’s for the marriage of Maximillian I to Bianca Maria Sforza. The roof is comprised of 2, 657 gold gilded ceramic tiles on the roof. It is quite stunning sitting at the end of one of the longest streets in Old Town. J. was less impressed than I thought he would be given his love for anything gilded.

What To Do

We never ran out of things to do in Innsbruck. For a small city it can definitely keep you entertained.

By far our favorite thing to do was ride the Hungerberg Funicular and the Nordkette cable car. After you have arrived, wander around the mountain peak. Trust me the majesty of the alps is humbling, moving and absolutely breathtaking.

We have definitely seen our fair share of Imperial Palaces in our travels. The one in Innsbruck was just as beautiful as others we have seen around Europe. It was a great way to spend a few hours walking among the Baroque architecture.

Have dinner or drinks at the Adler hotel on their roof top terrace. Truly, the view is stunning-in fact we never found a better spot to take in the whole city. The food and beer are pretty good and the service was great.

Everyday we would walk through the Innsbrucker Hofgarten park. It was full of beautiful trees, providing much needed shade in July. There are tons of activities in the park if you need a reprieve from the bustle of Old Town. J. and I liked to sit in the shade and watch the people come and go as we made our way back to our Airbnb every night.

Walk the river. Along the rivers banks are colorful houses, linked together in the most romantic way. Their bright yellows, peaches, pinks and greens create a beautiful reflection in the flowing river below. If you are lucky you will catch people who tie themselves to the bridges and “surf” the river.

Traveling full time has its drawbacks, one of which is that we aren’t prepared for every situation. Becuase of this we didn’t have the gear to take advantage of the hiking in Innsbruck, or the biking. If you can pack some shoes, a jacket, water bottle and food and get into the mountains on foot or bike. It really is a marvelous way to enjoy this incredible city. For us we had to admire the outdoor enthusiasts from afar and promise each other we would return one day.

The Verdict

So, which city is better Innsbruck or Salzburg? Honestly, I can’t decide. They are a completely different vibe. Salzburg is more of a refined city. The buildings are grander, the history is better known, and it is much larger. Innsbruck has this quaint small town charm that captures your heart. It is a preserved jewel in a world where that is getting harder and harder to find. In my opinion the majesty of the mountains providing this small haven in the valley below, where the character of the city has been perfectly preserved, was so unique that it will forever hold a special place in my heart.

In J’s opinion Innsbruck wins over Salzburg. While he loved Salzburg, he will never forget the cable cars and standing in the Alps surrounded by nothing but the magical glory of our planet. He loved the views, the river and the feeling of nature that surrounds Innsbruck.

One warning though for you vegetarians-eating wasn’t easy for me in Innsbruck. Usually, we cooked dinner in our Airbnb due to the lack of vegetarian options. Except for the pizza-we found some pretty great pizza in Innsbruck.

We loved our Airbnb in Innsbruck! If you decide to go-check it out. The location was great, the decor was fantastic and there are markets and fantastic coffee close by. If you have never used Airbnb before you can save if you use this code when you book. It helps us and you!

The Best Songs For A Road Trip

One of my favorite movies is Elizabethtown. Not because it is romantic, or because Orlando Bloom and Kirsten Dunst are so cute, or maybe because the family drama is so funny but because of the notion of the road trip as a cathartic adventure in letting go, moving on and experiencing the world. I am extremely nostalgic about creating mix tapes (i.e. playlists) of the best songs for a road trip and Elizabethtown nailed it! So because J. and I are pretty much full-time in the car this summer I decided to share the best songs for a road trip-according to me:

Beggar In The Morning-The Barr Brothers

I’m Gonna Be-The Proclaimers

Just Breathe-Pearl Jam

Into The Mystic-Van Morrison

Hard Times-Ryan Adams

Anything Could Happen-Elie Goulding

Little Lovin’-Lissie

We Own It-2 Chainz & Wiz Khalifa

Float On-Modest Mouse

Fire It Up-Modest Mouse

Thin Line-Macklemore & Ryan Lewis

Song For Zula-Phosphorescent

Catch The Wind-Donovan

Laid-James

Jack & Diane-John Mellancamp

Stubborn Love-The Lumineers

The Monster-Eminem

I Can Be Somebody-Deorro

All The Pretty Girls-Kaleo

You’re Such A-Hailee Steinfeld

All Time Low-Jon Bellion

Lost In My Mind-The Head and the Heart

Please, Please, Please, Let Me Get What I Want-The Smiths

Glitter & Gold-Barns Courtney

Recommendations

After reaching out to my friends to find out what their favorite songs are for a road trip I compiled this list of their top recommendations:

Runnin Down A Dream-Tom Petty

Take It Easy-The Eagles Steven

Ends of the Earth-Lord Huron

Going To California-Led Zeppelin-Amy

Golden-My Morning Jacket-Amy

Meet Me In The City-The Black Keys-Amy

I Can See Clearly Now-Jimmy Cliff-Joan

Have You Ever Seen The Rain- CCR-Lanette

Don’t Stop Believin’-Journey-Kat

What are your favorite songs for road trips? J. and I are always looking for new music! Do you love to sing in the car as much as I do? If so what are some of your favorites to sing to?

Want to remember these songs? Pin It!

A Visit To Salzburg-Why I Fell In Love

To be honest our visit to Salzburg was a bit obligatory for me, initially. For the lack of enthusiasm and anticipation I had I want to apologize personally to the city. Truly very few places have been so unexpected as my visit to Salzburg. Don’t be put off by the whole Sound of Music thing. Contrary to my expectations we weren’t bombarded with it as we explored. I must admit I became completely caught up in the whole romance of the Von Trapp family during our visit to Salzburg.

After our visit to Lienz we drove to Salzburg. While the drive wasn’t quite as jaw dropping as the trip from Innsbruck to Lienz there were still some pretty fantastic sights along the way. As soon as we neared Salzburg we dropped off the car. Then we made our way into the city on foot (yep dragging our possessions behind us along the cobbled streets). As usual we arrived starving, and thus a bit grumpy. Quickly we sought out food to tide us over while we waited for our check-in. Immediately we understood the people of Salzburg were going to be a lot of fun. Our experience during our 4-day trip was jovial, relaxed and extremely helpful people with an enormous sense of pride in their city and their history.

Best Thing To Do In Salzburg

Walk. Just walk aimlessly through the narrow streets, over the bridges, along the river, and up into the hills. Everywhere you turn there is something incredible to discover. Seriously. I took so many pictures of the sculptures, statues, and signs they will have to have their own blog posts. The architecture is so grand without being pretentious in Salzburg. I couldn’t get enough of the turrets, the ironwork, and the quaint little buildings. The architecture reflected the playful yet sophistication of the people who live in Salzburg. Immediately we felt at home.

The city is easily navigated on foot, and the Austrians were always happy to help us find a place. To not walk the city would be missing the whole point of the culture in Salzburg, in my humble opinion. It also means it is a lot less convenient to stop for a delicious Austrian beer, or sweet treat.

Sound Of Music Sights In Salzburg

It started out we were going to take pictures of a few of the locations from the Sound of Music movie for our nieces and nephew. It ended up we walked most of the city seeing each sight we could. The architecture of Residenz Square was so stunning it would have been a shame to miss the rest of the locations. It ended up being a brilliant decision as we toured brilliant floral gardens; stone abbeys built into mountains, gorgeous cemeteries and saw majestic fountains. I’m not sure J would recommend me serenading him as we visited iconic sights but I think secretly he really loved it.

Local Events

While we were visiting in June we were so lucky to attend the local music festival. Bars set up in front of their shops, bands play on various stages along the streets and the locals came out to eat, drink and dance to the myriad of music to be heard. Sharing a long table with locals we drank some great Austrian beer. We ate incredible food, and tried to converse with our tablemates in broken English. The music was infectious ( it was generally American music like most festivals we run across in the world). As we walked home that night it was J’s turn to serenade. We couldn’t help but feel like we had walked out of reality and into a safe little haven where the quality of life and community is the utmost important thing.

Along the river we found a local artisan market. We spent a few hours shopping and meeting some of the locals creating beautiful and unique products. The scenery along the river couldn’t be a better location for the market. Spending time away from the tourist attractions and with the locals gives us a truer sense of the places we are visiting.

Overall

For J. and me our visit to Salzburg was romantic, relaxing, funny and so much different than what we had expected. Instead of a tourist city we found a charming town on the banks of a beautiful river. It is a place that refuses to give up its history, identity or romanticism-no matter how many tourists visit every year. We never felt crowded, overrun by tour groups or like an annoyance to the locals (not always the case when traveling).

A visit to Salzburg is a step back to a perfectly preserved time when buildings were grander, gardens were more colorful and life was more celebrated.

Riding The Alpine Coaster in Lienz Austria

My quest for adventures can often takes me to lesser known locations. I knew leaving Italy wouldn’t be easy. It never is, so I was looking for a destination with something fun to do. Enter Lienz, Austria with its windy 2.7 kilometer alpine coaster. To some it may seem crazy to travel hours out of the way just to ride an alpine coaster. To to me it makes perfect sense. What better way to spend a few days than in an Austrian valley flying down a mountain?

The easiest way for us to get to Lienz was renting a car in Innsbruck and driving a few hours. Normally I try to stick with trains because renting a car is not generally the cheapest way, or the quickest, to get somewhere. However, the journey to Lienz by car looked so exceptional I couldn’t resist.

J. and I took the train from Italy (which ended up running so late we had to spend the night in Innsbruck, booking a hotel last minute). To those of you who travel by train in Italy this shouldn’t come as a big surprise. The train ride through Italy, with the dolomites and small villages dotting the landscape, was extraordinary. To date it is at the top of my train experiences.

The Drive

The next morning as we took in the majestic mountains our journey to Lienz began. For the next few hours we wound through valleys, over mountains and into long tunnels on our way to Lienz. It is no exaggeration when I say that J. was driving so slow our journey took almost double the time. Each twist and turn offered a new and spectacular view of waterfalls, jagged mountain peaks, snow in the end of June and gorgeous villages less populated than the average neighborhood street in America. Even though we were completely behind schedule we just couldn’t move faster. We were afraid of missing one of the most spectacular drives of our lives. On most of the journey we were alone on the road, left to gawk in wonder. The journey felt as if everything was put there just for us.

Once we arrived in Lienz finding our out of the way Airbnb was quite easy. Driving up to it was a different story. As J. white knuckled the steering wheel and I sat giggling we wound up the mountain on a road barely wider than our car. J. was hoping no one was coming down the mountain. Our reward was an adorable apartment complete with a creek, chickens, and crisp mountain air.

The Town

The town of Lienz is very small, a fifteen minute walk and you have exhausted the place. But it is full of charm. Flowers overflowing from window boxes and stunning displays along the sidewalks, fantastic food, good beer and welcoming locals. The river runs from the lush green mountains right through the city. Then the lush green mountains give way to the grey stone dolomites, black rocky mountains and then again to lush green mountains. Together they create a perfect barrier to protect the charming town of Lienz from the rest of the world.

The Osttirodler Coaster

I had scheduled two full days in Lienz but one was lost due to the train situation in Italy. So our only full day in Lienz was devoted to finding the Osttirodler and taking a ride. For all of my American readers the first thing to understand about Europe in general is they are not as paranoid as we are about putting railings everywhere and protecting themselves from liability. Europeans rely on people using their common sense to keep themselves safe. I know this, and am very comfortable with this attitude. BUT as I sat in the toboggan to ride down the alpine coaster a little instruction on how to put the seat belt on, and apply the brakes would have been comforting. Alas, left to my own devices I quickly figured it out as I started rolling forward.

Full disclosure here: I love speed. I love twists and turns, drops and climbs. In that respect the Osttirodler didn’t disappoint. Unlike American coasters on the Osttirodler I was able to control my own speed and once I figured it out I was off to the races. As much as I wanted to take in the gorgeous surroundings of evergreen trees, mountains, lush green grass and fresh mountain air, the desire for speed took over. What a rush!!! The twists and hairpin turns, loops and drops down the out of season ski slope did not disappoint. I laughed and screamed while I flew down the tracks.

That night as we sat bundled in blankets on our beautiful deck, J. trying to rile up the chickens, we both decided a trip to Austria wouldn’t be complete without a stop in the tucked away valley of Lienz.

Travel Info

The Osttirodler alpine coaster is located just outside of Lienz on the main road, Iseltaler Str. 27. It is one of the longest alpine coasters in the world. There is more to do there than just the alpine coaster though: a kids play area, climbing park, petting zoo and gondola ride.

This is was where we stayed in Lienz. It honestly couldn’t have been more perfect.

Drive time from Innsbruck is 2.5 hours (unless you get caught up in the scenery like we did, then figure on double that time. In my opinion not having a car in Lienz would be a mistake. It would be hard to get in and out of the town when coming and leaving, and many of the accommodations are about half a mile or more outside of the main town, hidden up the mountains.