How To See Beautiful Heidelberg In Two Days

Heidelberg rests between two mountains, stubbornly refusing to change, to give in to the hustle and bustle of the modern world. Its historic charm engulfs me, freezing time, and silencing all but the quiet buzz of the unspoiled city. While it is tempting to lose yourself in the allure of the gingerbread style buildings, we found two days to be enough time to see Heidelberg, Germany. 

It had been 15 years since our first visit to Heidelberg. The windy streets had wrapped themselves around my soul, quietly beckoning me to return. As I watched through the windows of the train, idyllic villages rolling by, I was not the least bit tempted to stop. Heidelberg had been on my mind for too long to miss a moment.  I wanted to stand on the east side of the Neckar river, in the Neuenheim district, drink a coffee and admire the view of the Heidelberg castle.  So, when we arrived that is exactly what we did. Perhaps it is strange that we didn’t jump into the bustle of the tourists journey but I wanted a moment to allow Heidelberg to seduce me, to remind me why we came back. 

The Neuenheim district of Heidelberg is more open than the Alstadt (old town). Grand houses line the Neckar river, permanently poised to admire the views of the old town climbing from the river to the Heidelberg castle. Unapologetically they occupy their space, standing guard over the well preserved past. While it is different it serves as an introduction to what is to be found on the other side. Its contrast slowly guides visitors into the seduction. 

The connection between these two contrasts is the Karl Theodor brick bridge. It has been rebuilt, yet it maintains its original appearance with gentle arches that lead from one version of Heidelberg to the other. As we walked along the bridge I could almost hear the heartbeat of the old city growing louder, its energy beckoning us to come in. After a brief stop to see the Heidelberg bridge monkey who has been a symbol of the city since the 1500’s, we began our reunion with this fairytale city. 

Instead of meandering the tanglement of cobblestoned lanes we chose to make our way directly to the Heidelberg castle. Walking up to the castle is beautiful but in an effort to make the most of the two days in Heidelberg we thought the funicular(Bergbahn) was a better option. Pausing in the charming Kornmarkt square we could feel the magnetism of the castle as it rolls down the hill, the views luring visitors to make their way to its gardens, and historic buildings. Silent promises are made, if one is willing to visit. Momentarily distracted by the offer of Baileys on ice, we once again give in to the allure and begin the exploration of the 13th century complex. 

Exploring the terraced gardens, Baileys in hand, I am reminded why I needed to return. Green gardens tumble towards the edge of the hill, delivering stunning views of the valley below, spilling from the convergence of the two hills. Perhaps, it is the atmosphere of Germany in general but I couldn’t help but give thanks that the destruction of WWII only slightly touched Heidelberg. 

Amidst the green gardens, brick walls fight to remain standing despite the loss through the past centuries. Delicately carved statues, sculpted arches and ornate decorations are reminders of the grandeur of this former residential palace. Then there is the inside of the castle, stained glass covered hallways, museums and  Thun,the world’s largest wine barrel. Once used to hold up to 220,000 liters of wine given as tax payments by local farmers, it now serves as a perfect backdrop for photos and wine tasting. 

Alstadt

Navigating the 300 steps down from Heidelberg castle we arrive again in the Kornmarkt square. From here there is no option but to give into the seduction, to agree to give oneself completely to the fairytale. Which is the only thing one actually wants to do. Quickly the colorful buildings, like an abstract color palette, transport us to another time, another way of life, one we don’t want to leave. I imagine Mark Twain as a boy as he wandered the uneven cobblestone lanes. His words ring truer with each step I take: “I have never enjoyed a view which had such a serene and satisfying charm, a fallen Milky Way … its intricate cobweb of streets jeweled with twinkling lights.” quote from “A Tramp Abroad”.  

Alstadt is home to Heidelberg University, Germany’s oldest university. Regal buildings, quaint gardens and beautiful courtyards buzz with the energy and dreams of the students who flow from building to building. The history of Heidelberg serves as an inspiration for the future here, not a hindrance. Amongst the buildings to visit is the old student detention center, where students were once held for minor offenses. Now the building is dedicated to poetry and art contributed by the creative minds of the students, past and present. 

Heidelberg Marktplatz

The center of the energy of Heidelberg is Heidelberg Marktplatz. The bustle of the residents, tourists, and students all converge here. Energy builds from the street performers, the subtle roar of the conversations in the open air bars and cafes and the scurrying of business people sliding through the maze of fountains, tables, tourists and photographers. Unlike other European squares it is not overwhelming, somehow balanced by the baroque and renaissance architecture. Hercules, dripping with water from the Baroque fountain, is a symbol of the strength and determination of the city. Standing in this square, absorbing every sensation the spell is cast, the cobweb tightens, and no one seems to mind. 

Each step of the Alstadt is a new discovery, between the historic architecture, the kaleidoscope of colors, quaint shops, carved doorways, and delicate iron signs hanging over bars, shops and restaurants. No place is more delightful to each sense than the Hauptstrasse, the longest pedestrian street in Europe. Perhaps the only indication that the Hauptstrasse is a mile long is the plethora of shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, florists, and endless activity experienced during a stroll. It was a great street to leave Jim at an outside table to people watch while I meandered through the shops, lingering in front of the colorful floral displays, and soaking in each detail of the buildings. 

Our favorite place to spend the evening was on a side street first eating dishes of spätzle and then moving on to a tiny bar full of frothy pints of beer, ambient lighting and dark wood tables. A little too late, after a bit too much beer we returned to our hotel, content at having once again passed two days in Heidelberg, full of just as much wonder and joy as the first time.

No other city we have visited in Germany felt more authentic, alive, progressive and old-fashioned, inviting and unreal as Heidelberg. Perhaps that is why, even after a second visit, I still find it pulls at my soul, beckoning me back. 

Places to visit in Heidelberg In Two Days:

Hauptstrasse-mile long pedestrian street full of shops, hotels, restaurants and bars

Bookstores– Heidelberg is a UNESCO city of literature, let your inner bookworm enjoy the bookstores that can be found throughout the city

Heidelberg Castle (Schloss Heidelberg)-the 13th century castle standing gallantly on the hill above the Aldstadt

Heidelberg Tun-the world’s largest wine barrel, built in 1751, located in the Heidelberg castle

Aldstadt-wander the lanes of the historic part of Heidelberg

Heidelberg Bridge Monkey-bronze statue at the end of the Karl Theodore bridge. The 15th century symbol was placed there in 1979 to symbolize that neither the residents of the city or those living outside of it are better than the other. Notice the mirror there to remind people to look over their shoulder as they cross the bridge to remind themselves of where they have come from. 

Karl Theodore Bridge-The bridge is only 70 years old but is an exact replica of the 9th version built in 1788. It was bombed by German troops at the end of World War 2 to stop Allied forces from entering Heidelberg. 

Heidelberg University & the old detention center-the oldest university in Germany, located in the Aldstadt. If you are able to visit the Grand hall it is a spectacular example of German architecture. 

Haus Zum Ritter-a hotel built in the 1500’s which is the oldest burgher house in Heidelberg

Neuenheim district-explore the streets and take in the architecture here. You can also take the 2km Philosopher’s Walk which begins in this district and ends in Philsophengärtchen. There are gorgeous views of the city and the landscape along the walk.

How to Get There: 

We took the train from the Frankfurt airport which took just over an hour and winds through beautiful countryside and quaint villages. 

We have also driven from Frankfurt which was easy and fast, just over an hour. However, it wasn’t terribly scenic. 

Take an airport shuttle from Frankfurt airport.

Book a tour with a local tour company from nearby areas, including Frankfurt.

How To See Pompeii and Herculaneum In One Day

Recently I traveled from Naples to Pompeii and then to Herculaneum and Rome in one day. It was a long day but absolutely worth it!

My experience:

  • Getting to Herculaneum (Ercolano) from Naple or Pompeii by train
  • What to see in Herculaneum
  • What I enjoyed more about Herculaneum
  • Details of the Trip

Getting to Herculaneum

Getting to Herculaneum from Naples is extremely simple. First you need to catch the Circumvesuviana trainfrom Napoli Centrale train station in Piazza Garibaldi. The station is Napoli Garibaldi located inside the Napoli Centrale station. Take this to Ercolano Savi Vesuvio. (The train destination is Sorrento.) This is the only stop for the Herculaneum ruins. It takes about 25 minutes to arrive in Ercolano.

The train is not as nice as the Trenitalia trains and can get quite crowded so you may want to arrive a little early at the Napoli Centrale station to be first in line for seats. The train runs every 30 minutes and the tickets cost about 4 euro.

I have seen many people talking about how crowded the train can be. We didn’t have this experience since we visited in March, but I think it is something to bear in mind. So at the end of the post I have suggested another train to take to Pompeii and Herculaneum.

To catch the train from Pompeii you take the same Circumvesuviana train line from the only train station in Pompeii. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs around 3 euro.

Once you arrive in Ercolano Scavi leave the train station and walk straight down 4th November street (Via IV Novembre). The walk is about 5 minutes downhill. This street leads you directly to the entrance of Herculaneum.

What to See in Herculaneum

Like Pompeii one can walk the streets of the town.There are homes and shops to walk through, and plenty to see from the roads. It is much smaller than Pompeii but also much better preserved. Herculaneum was destroyed by a 100mph, 250 degree celsius surge of hot ash and gas. Since it was ash instead of lava rock there are preserved pieces of furniture, wood beams and doors still in existence.

Before visiting Herculaneum we had not done any research so we had no idea what to expect. In many ways I think that was better. The impact of walking into the area was complete awe. Unlike Pompeii, you enter above the town so there is immediately a birds eye view of the town and the destruction. It is always quite interesting to see the contrast between the “new” town and the ruins of Herculaneum. I wondered many times during our visit what would happen if the Vesuvio were to erupt now.

Once we bought the tickets and started walking towards the point of entry to the ruins we were shocked to see the skeletons of the residents in the marina. Visiting Pompeii can feel like touring a museum. When we saw the skeletons we understood immediately this was going to be a much different experience. Herculaneum immediately felt more like a sacred place. It was much easier to comprehend the final moments of the residents and their everyday lives before the eruption.

Understanding the way they lived was much easier in Herculaneum than Pompeii. I was completely fascinated by the doors, signage and furniture that gave a better picture of everyday life. Many of the frescoes were better preserved as well.

The highlights were:

  1. Thermal baths (Terme del Foro)- It is still possible to see the areas where clothes were left in the 1st century baths, the men’s section and the women’s section. There are beautiful dolphin patterns in the mosaic floors. Wandering through the baths it was easy to imagine how the residents must have spent their time in the thermal baths and the gym (palestra) nearby.
  2. The College of the Augustales (Collegio di Austales)- This is where free men attended classes who were devotees of the cult of Emperor Augustus. We loved seeing the college, located at the back of the village.
  3. The House of Wooden Partition (Casa del Tramezzo di Legno)- Here you can see the original doors still intact which were used to separate the atrium from the larger living room. The doors are not simple wooden doors, they are beautiful works of art. Built well enough to withstand the eruption, being buried for centuries and now being exposed to modern day life. The floors in the house are well preserved as well, so they offer a glimpse of what it would have been like to live in Herculaneum at the time.
  4. House of the Deer (Casa dei Cervi)-This has a beautiful courtyard with statues of deer, and a layered garden area.

  1. House of the Relief of Telephus (Casa del Rilievo di Telefo). A grand house overlooking the marina, built between 27 BC and 14 AD. This house is so special. It is covered in frescoes, unlike we have seen before. The pillared corridors lead to a garden and then a terrace which overlooks the marina. The architecture is still stunning after all of the destruction and time. The pillars are still in excellent condition. The house is a two story house, and while it is not possible to tour the second floor you can still look up and see the architecture. There are also amazing black and white frescoes in some of the individual rooms. Amazing!

  1. The Boathouses (Fornici)-The location where about 340 skeletons remain of people trying to escape or hide. When the skeletons were uncovered they found a woman who was 8 months pregnant, people clutching their jewelry and money along with other precious belongings. It is unclear if these people rushed to the marina hoping to escape by boat or if they were hiding in the boathouses hoping to survive. The mass graves make the event so real and sacred. Above the area is the chapel of the gods, a tribute to the very deities who the residents had believed were protecting them.
  2. House of Neptune and Amphitrite (Casa di Nettuno e Anfritite)- The home of an art collector who chose to remain at his dining table honoring what he loved most about life. We were so moved by this home. It is absolutely stunning, but more importantly the choice the owner made to stay in the place he loved so much. Imagine him sitting there looking at his beautiful art as his world came to an end. His last moments must have been filled with peace rather than panic. There is a lot to consider when you imagine the difference between the two choices.
  3. Samnite House (Casa Sannitica)-Full of colorful and masterful frescoes in most of the rooms this house must be seen to grasp the beauty the Herculaneum people lived in before the eruption.
  4. House of the Mosaic Atrium (Casa dell’Atrio a Mosaico)- Amazing mosaics remain on the uneven floor of this house that shouldn’t be missed. It offers a better understanding of the craftsmanship the locals had and the importance of their homes to be grand and beautiful.
  5. The museums (I Musei)- One of the museums is full of jewelry, cookware and other items. Herculaneum was a wealthy town. Therefore, the jewelry and household items are exceptional examples of what the residents were able to craft and obtain. The other museum contains a boat they found in the marina. The boat is incredibly well preserved. Alongside the boat is the story of how the archaeologists were able to preserve it. My favorite part of this museum was the very thorough and inspiring history of the event and the excavations that took place in Herculaneum.

What I Enjoyed Most About Herculaneum

Seeing the skeletons in the Fornici was the most moving thing I saw all day. Immediately it was so apparent the fear, the impact of the eruption and the complete misunderstanding the residents had about what was happening. They had lived with the belief that the gods were protecting them from the volcano. When it was apparent that something terrible was happening I imagine they never thought it was as horrible of an event as it was. Many of the skeletons were found with jewelry, money and other possessions with them. They thought there was a chance of survival.

Seeing the boat in the museum and reading the story of the events surrounding the eruption and the aftermath was incredible for me. It made my experience more intimate than the one I had in Pompeii. After reading the stories I left with a sense that the excavations at Herculaneum were a more intimate experience than those at Pompeii. Perhaps this is only my feeling or perhaps it is true due to the size differences between the two locations. For all of Pompeii’s grandeur, statuary, theaters and massivity Herculaneum offers more preservation and intimacy.

Since Herculaneum is not as popular as Pompeii I really enjoyed the absence of the crowds and the huge tour groups. Also on our walk to Herculaneum from the train station there were not numerous tourist stands selling souvenirs-the town of Ercolano is still a functioning town with local restaurants, bars and cafes. The walk from the train station in Pompeii to the entrance is at most 5 minutes but it is lined with people selling souvenirs, pizza, fresh orange juice and water. In Ercolano it is locals going about their daily lives, which function around the incredible ruins.

Details of the Trip

We traveled from Napoli Centrale station to Pompeii. We were in Pompeii from about 10:30 until 3:30. Then from there we caught the Circumvesuviana train from Pompeii to Ercolano. The station there can be quite busy and there is only one ticket window so I would recommend buying them online before or buying them at the Napoli Centrale station. Arriving in Ercolano around 4:00 was perfect. There were very few people there and we had several hours to wander Herculaneum almost completely alone. Herculaneum only takes about 3 hours to see in its entirety, in my opinion.

After we finished at Herculaneum we took the Circumvesuviana train from Ercolano to Napoli Centrale station. From there we caught the high speed train to Roma Termini station. This journey took about an hour and ten minutes. We arrived at our Airbnb by 8:30 and were at the Trevi Fountain for dinner by 9:30.

It was definitely a long day but we felt like we had seen everything we wanted to see. My advice would be if you are planning a day like this, plan what you want to see in Pompeii before you go so you can use your time wisely.

Also, we had our carry-on luggage with us the whole day. In Pompeii they offer small lockers where you can leave a backpack free. They also have a luggage room where you can check your bag. However, space is limited so if it is a busy travel day, or you arrive later it might be best to check your bag at the station.

Checking your luggage is possible at a depot in the train station (they charge about 8 euro per bag).

Herculaneum has a luggage check in the ticket office. There you can leave your luggage for free (at least it was free when we were there).

If you are traveling between April and October (we were not) you can also take the Campania Express train to Ercolano (Herculaneum) where there is air conditioning, guaranteed seats if you buy your tickets early, and faster arrival times. Since these are higher travel times I would recommend traveling with the Campania express instead of the Circumvesuviana. It is more expensive, about 15-25 euro per person) but much more convenient in high season.

When riding Italian trains always make sure to validate your ticket if you have a paper ticket. The fines can be quite high if you do not.

To learn more about sites in Italy, traveling around Europe or the world make sure to follow my blog.

The Breathtaking Loro Ciuffenna

One of my favorite parts of living in Italy is having access to all the lesser-known places.(Like this one) I saw a picture of Loro Ciuffenna on Instagram and knew immediately I had to visit. There was a photo of colorful buildings perched on cliffs. They all lead to a river and waterfall below. The orange, yellow, blue, green, and beige houses all stood connected. They seem to be a protective barrier for the river from the outside world. 

The day we visited was a great day for driving the Fiat through the Italian countryside with the top down. (I know, tough life…) The main road leading to Loro Ciuffenna and Le Balze was closed for construction. After approimately half an hour fighting with two GPS’ finally there was an alternate suggestion. Finally, with moods adjusted we were happily on our way to Loro Ciuffenna, having given up the idea of seeing Le Balze. 

Loro Ciuffenna, doesn’t look like much on first approach. In fact, I even asked a gentleman if I was in the right place when I parked. We were indeed in Loro Ciuffenna but it was necessary to climb stairs to get into the village. This, for those of you who haven’t travelled much in Italy, is a common situation. Suddenly we were up the stairs and the little village began to look like what I had seen in the photos. Old Etruscan stone houses, small lanes with ancient cobblestones, and a bright orange clock tower standing proudly in the center of town. 

The historic center of Loro Ciuffenna is very small. Quickly we were in the main Piazza. From there a small, flower covered bridge leads to another part of the village and shows off what the town is famous for-the waterfall and the river. The deep dramatic gorges hold up the old stone homes. It is a stunning site with the grey and black stone buildings. They were mixed with colorfully painted plaster ones, and the ancient stone bridge. Below, the sound of the water as it flows through the village, surrounded by history, greenery and deep stone gorges is spectacular!

 It is obvious standing on the bridge overlooking the town that this is an Etruscan village with Roman influence. In fact, it is believed that the curved bridge was a major crossway for the Romans on their way to Florence.  Initially the town was known as Loro (meaning bay tree in English) due to the Laurel trees surrounding the village. Over time the Ciuffenna, the name of the river that cuts the town in two was added. Loro Ciuffenna, as it has been called since 1863, has been named one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Earlier the Ciuffenna was used to power the local mill to make chestnut flour. 

We were absolutely famished. By luck, a quick glance up at a charming well-lit window, I found the only restaurant open that day for lunch, Ristorante La Torre. Then, walking up a staggered staircase we arrived in the dining room. There were two small dining rooms, simple and rustic décor with fabulous views out of its small windows. It absolutely oozed character. And then there was the food, oh my god the food! It was superb, worth the trip to Loro Ciuffenna just for the meal at Ristorante La Torre. (If available I recommend the papa la pomodoro and the cappuccino truffle-Jim recommends the braised beef.)

When we gushed about the meal to the owner, his explanation was very Italian, “I don’t do anything that special. I am just committed to cooking with the best Tuscan ingredients I can find.” We hear this often in Italian cooking. While it is true, I beg to differ.  La Torre is doing something very special. When you visit, plan a meal there! 

That night I had booked B&B- Casa da Agata. I chose it because of its proximity to Loro Ciuffenna and its gorgeous pictures. Of course, I should know that panoramic mountain views usually come with very curvy, very narrow roads.

 Casa da Agata was no different. Therefore, we wound our way through a few borgos, each a group of colorful homes nestled into the green woods covering the mountains. There was a little swimming hole with a waterfall and then the driveway to Casa da Agata. The gravel driveway has a slight incline, as the home is perched on the side of one of the Pratomagno mountains with stunning views. Halfway up the driveway our little Fiat 500 almost gave in, but with a little luck we made it to the top. (For most cars the driveway would be no problem at all.)

Quickly we realized we had forgotten to book dinner at the B&B. With this in mind, we didn’t want to test our luck with our little fiat on the gravel road in the dark of night. Thus, after making it up the mountain, winding around the curvy and narrow roads, through the gorgeous scenery, stopping occasionally to let a car pass and then navigating the sloped gravel driveway, we decided it was best to grab an early dinner in town and be back before sunset.

 We travelled back to Loro Ciuffenna in search of a place to eat. Luckily, the trip back was much less complicated since we knew our way and did not drive an extra 3km out of our way.  Then, in town we discovered the cutest pizzeria we have ever seen!

 Nestled at the end of the most modern bridge there is a tiny little building, with a scalloped back, sitting at the end of the bend, overlooking the river. An adorable wooden sign of a woman advertises the Pizza da asporto “Pizza for takeaway”. 

At night Loro Ciuffenna, like many Italian villages, feels different. Locals come out for a walk together. They socialize, sit in the two bars in the town for an aperitivo, and watch the stunning sunset. When we first arrived at Loro Ciuffenna it seemed abandoned but as we sat overlooking the river, devouring our pizza we watched the kids play, the adults laugh and share drinks the spirit of the town came alive. 

We were lucky enough to catch the sun as it set over the town. The way Loro Ciuffenna is positioned the setting sun casts a glow on the buildings and for 10 minutes or, so the city is aglow in oranges and yellows. Regrettably we could eat no more and we headed up the hill in a race against darkness. In the green covered mountains and fresh air, we slept, resting for the next day, antique shopping in Arezzo at one of the biggest markets in Italy.

Details

Only about a 2-hour drive from Lucca Loro Ciuffenna is a great overnight trip from Lucca, Florence, Arezzo or Pisa. 

The mill is open for tours-I would recommend contacting them before you arrive for accurate hours and ticket information. 

Loro Ciuffenna was also the home of the Italian artist, Venturino Venturi. His home is now open for tours.

You can find information about the Le Balze in this blog post and read about the rest of our day in the Valdarno region.

Is Rocchetta Mattei the Most Beautiful Castle In Italy?

“Benvenuti in un sogno”-“Welcome to a dream”. The tagline for Rocchetta Mattei could not be more perfect. A visit to Rocchetta Mattei is exactly that-entering a dream. It was the dream of Conte Cesare Mattei in 1850 when he purchased the property. For the next thirty years he built the stunning castle-Rocchetta Mattei.

Rocchetta Mattei is not a well known tourist destination. Nor is it well known to many of my Italian friends. After my visit I wanted to rent a bus and put everyone I know on it and drive to Rocchetta Mattei. The castle, so unique to Italy, so exceptional in design and creativity should be shared with everyone.

Cesare Mattei was an exceptional man. Not only did he visualize this stunning castle, and then oversee its construction for 30 years he also developed his own business. He worked in Electromeopathic medicines.

While constructing Rocchetta Mattei the then Conte Cesare Mattei also built his medical business to 107 distribution centers around the world. Mattei was however, a bit eccentric. Unfortunately this eventually led to extreme paranoia and fear.

In 1850 Mattei purchased property in Riola. This property overlooked Riola, and the surrounding valley and was home to the ruins of a medieval castle (Fortress Savignono). From the ruins of the medieval castle Mattei built a castle like no other in Italy. Rocchetta Mattei is a perfect mix of Moorish, Medieval, Liberty, Art Nouveau and Modern Italian architecture.

Each room, courtyard, entrance, and staircase is unique but completely cohesive. At no point does space look awkward-quite the opposite, as if each style was meant to flow into the other.

Rocchetta Mattei sneaks up on its visitors, winding through the hills, searching and searching for this magnificent castle is mystifying, signs lead you to a castle you expect to see around each corner and yet it is not there. Then there it is, eight gold domes shining in the morning sun, striped stone work, arched windows encircling towers, and elaborate stone and brick work, all rising from the trees below.

It looks as though the landscape released from its core this stunning piece of architecture, so different than anything in its vicinity and yet so perfect in its space. In a first glance it is obvious this is an absolute architectural masterpiece.

I had become slightly obsessed with visiting Rocchetta Mattei after I saw a picture of the chapel on Instagram. As we approached the entrance, it was hard to wait to discover what was behind the gorgeous facade. Yet as much as I anticipated how incredible it would be I can see I did not dream grand enough for what was behind the front entrance gate. There lie the wonder that is Rocchetta Mattei.

Complete with elaborate brick work of the like I have never seen before-griffins, and roman busts lining the entranceway leading up stairs to the grand Moorish front doors, their presence a momentary distraction from the perfection which lay behind. Perhaps it seems as though I am exaggerating or being overly generous with my description however, the faces of those with me and around us revealed a shared state of awe.

Instead of using words to describe Rocchetta Mattei I will let the photos do the work for me. I think they do a better job of explaining the space than I ever could.

Cortile Centrale/Central Courtyard

Cappella or Chapel of Rocchetta Mattei
Cortile dei Leone/Courtyard of Lions. At one time the capitols were painted with blues and yellows to highlight the design, as was the fountain.
Cortile dei Leone was inspired by a courtyard in the Alhambra in Granada.

Sala Rossa/Red Room The ceiling is decoupaged from old newspapers.
Room of Peace/Sala della Pace Through the windows lie the rivers, and landscape Mattei loved.
Sala della Pace
Tomba di Cesare Mattei-10 years after his death his heir had Mattei’s body moved to the tomb Mattei had requested before his death. He now lies on the upper level of the Chapel.

As of 2022 there are 13 rooms and courtyards available to the public for tours. Eventually this will expand as the Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio in Bologna continues the work of reconstruction. Check the hours on their website as they vary during the year.

The tours are only in Italian for the moment, but given that a few people in our group do not speak Italian and loved the tour as much as those who did I wouldn’t let the language barrier deter you-the architecture speaks for itself. The love, care and consideration put into Rocchetta Mattei does not need words-they are felt throughout the property. When visiting it is easy to imagine Mattei walking through the castle with the full court he employed even including a buffoon!

Rocchetta Mattei is about an hour and a half from Lucca or Florence, and an hour from Bologna. If you are leaving from Lucca I would highly recommend taking the road from Pistoia to SS64 and following that route. It is more scenic, more convenient and much less stressful than the autostrada.

How To Have The Perfect 50th Birthday

When life gives you a pandemic and a 50th birthday what do you do? For about 10 years I had a plan of what my birthday was going to be. But that was going to be impossible given the travel restrictions. So the question was how could I have the perfect 50th birthday anyway? Especially when my initial birthday plan included family who do not live in Italy with me.

After a lot of contemplating, sometimes over wine with very accommodating friends, I decided to let it go by without much fanfare. J. was going to be away in the States until 3 days before my birthday so we couldn’t really travel somewhere local. So the perfect 50th birthday for me was going to be a low-key affair.

Now, I have to divulge that I am not one to skip, or ignore a birthday normally. They are big deals to me-not just mine but everyone’s I know. But no plan I came up with seemed right without my family and the usual getaways were impossible with J. gone. Yet as the day grew closer my friends just couldn’t accept my decision. So with their gentle and loving nudges, and a nonchalant mention from my sister that maybe she could fly over since she was newly vaccinated-a plan began to percolate.

How difficult could it be to plan the perfect 50th birthday with only a few weeks notice? Turns out with aforementioned friends, and the rolling hills of Tuscany as my home, anything is possible.

We began looking for a venue. I wanted the perfect Italian villa with a view of Tuscany that could accommodate 27 people for dinner, dancing and drinks. After a lot of searching and nothing ticking every box a friend mentioned a villa. We went to check it out. And there it was, the perfect Tuscan villa, the one I had envisioned when I dreamt of my life in Tuscany-Villa Michaela.

A walk around, a discussion of a menu, and I had my dream venue. Next a COVID restriction regulation change from the Italian government and a plane ticket was purchased. My sister was scheduled to attend.

The planning came together, the food and wine were chosen, my invitation sent out, playlist composed. Now it was all over but the waiting. (I am going to stop here to tell you that it wasn’t this easy. Without the incredible work of several of my friends this party would never, ever have been the perfect event it was).

The evening arrived, guests began to gather on our doorstep to take the black Mercedes vans to the Villa. I stopped for a quick glance at my sister and J. and I knew no matter what the evening had what I needed, family and friends.

The walk to the villa was the start of the dream evening. Everyone dressed so elegantly, laughing, and smiling as we walked up the stone drive to the entrance of Villa Michaela. The huge iron gates symbolically stood open, welcoming us in.

The lime green vines on the old buildings hanging down, holding together the stones laid hundreds of years ago. We were escorted into the dining hall, its massive wood table and elegant sofas lining the walls. I stood under the sparkling crystal chandeliers welcoming my friends. I watched as each one stepped out of the massive wood doors and into the seclusion of the villas lemon tree garden. The soft splashes of water falling from the fountain, while the sun quietly began to set.

After everyone arrived I too stepped into the lemon tree garden. As I looked out onto the lawn, there under the arches of grapevines was my perfect 50th birthday party. The servers walked around with food. The tables were filled with wine and Prosecco and the cool night air was filled with the melodious notes of good friends talking.

A surprise had been arranged for me. Two of our incredibly talented friends were going to sing opera for us in the cozy chapel built next to the main building of the villa. There we gathered. We were seated in golden chairs, the doors of the chapel open to the rolling hills of Tuscany. The walls covered in grapevines, olive trees, villas and reflections of the setting sun. We listened. Some of us cried with joy or remembrance of other family members who loved certain songs. Some of us smiled quietly appreciating every note. Whatever it was we did, we all knew how special those moments were. All of us were grateful.

From there, we were escorted to our dining table, set in front of a wall of blooming and fragrant white jasmine. Our joy reflecting in the pool behind us we began to drink, and eat, tell stories and share toasts. The night grew darker. The grapevines on the hills replaced by soft lights seeping through the villas windows. Each dish we consumed was a delight. Especially the homemade desert lovingly made by a close friend (for 27 people!!). Then the music began. Our feet began moving, some better than others, but it didn’t matter. We were all there together, on this gorgeous lawn in front of the perfect villa, celebrating life, love, friendship and family. Everything was perfect.

As I walked back to black vans, lost in the nights sky, I knew exactly how to plan the perfect 50th birthday party.

All of the photos above are the courtesy of my incredibly talented friend Thomas S England-you truly can make magic!

Thank you to Steve for the fantastic invitation and for the patience it must have taken to listen to me angst over the villa the first time. To you and Maryann for the perfect music. But more importantly for the never-ending love you put into making sure it was perfect.

Karen and Eddie you nudged, you pushed, you pulled and in the end you were right. I needed to have that party. I will be forever grateful for the work, the love, the ideas, the organization, the suggestions, the laughter, for all of it.

J. and K. you know that without you both it would have been nothing.

Michelle Buscemi & Mattia Campetti the night would never have been the same without the sweet sound of your voices, the fantastic show, and the chance to hear Geoff sing again.

And lastly in loving memory of Riley-arguably the best member of our Italian family. We miss you everyday!

Where Is The Beautiful Italian Garden-Villa Lante?

Living in Italy I am never at a loss for amazing places to visit. There are an abundance of stunning villas or gardens to tour. In fact, sometimes I get the sensation that the more I see the more there is to see. I am determined however, to persevere and try to conquer this ever growing list.

When I spotted Villa Lante on a list of places to see in Lazio I was surprised. How had this top rated Italian garden never showed up on my radar before? What exactly was this place? A quick search on where is Villa Lante explained that it was close to Viterbo and that was about all, but it was close to the hotel where we were staying so I decided it was a must see-after all it is rated as one of the best Italian gardens in Italy.

On a sunny fall morning we set off to find Villa Lante. After driving around in circles for close to an hour (I had decided I needed to see the Etruscan Pyramid. After 4 different navigation attempts and following the hotels directions we still couldn’t find it. So I gave up-in the name of peace and tranquility-and off we went to Villa Lante). Luckily finding it was quite easy. It is very close to Viterbo, Bomarzo and the Sacro Bosco.

As I drove closer to the exit J and I both noticed this beautiful looking village on a hill. Of course this can be said about almost every location in Italy. However we were a bit surprised to see this particular village on a hill as it is not often to find villas and large gardens in the middle of hilltop villages.

A bit of dread set in. Was this another Etruscan Pyramid goose chase, sure to end in complete surrender and a search for the fastest way home? Bravely we forged forward, throwing our chances at a peaceful afternoon to the wind. Luckily we quickly found a parking lot. For those of you accustomed to traveling by car in Italy you can imagine our pleasant surprise at easily finding a completely free, easily accessible parking lot in a small village.

For those of you who have not driven around Italy, trust me it is an event worth celebrating.

Walking through the stairway leading to any Italian village/town or city is one of my favorite things to do. There is an anticipation, like opening a gift, as you approach the exit. Curiosity builds over what will be found as you walk into the new place. On this sunny fall morning we were not disappointed. We had found ourselves in the village of Bagnaia, right in the middle of the main piazza.

Immediately the contrast is evident. On the left is an ancient archway with a turret attached. On the right is a more modern part of the village (think 1600-1700’s). Straight ahead a food truck, parking lot and caffe’s. Villa Lante is also to the right. I however was intrigued by what was through the archway so off we went in that direction.

After all of the villages, cities, and towns I have toured in Italy and the rest of Europe I can tell you it takes a bit to surprise me. I am almost always enamored but surprising me is not easy. Bagnaia was an exception. Maybe it is the contrast of the bustling piazza, the modern cars passing by I am not sure. However, as I walked through the archway I couldn’t help but mutter “Wow”.

Walking through we had entered an Etruscan area village, one that has been a town in some form since 963 AD. Piazza Castello stood before us. Ancient black and grey stone buildings, a beautiful fountain and tiny cobblestone streets. I know this may sound like other villages in Italy but Bagnaia is different. Piazza Castello is small, with one road leading into the rest of the town or the other leading out into a more modern world.

The darkness of the buildings visually conveys the age of this town which in the 13th century was given as a gift to the Pope from the Bishop of Viterbo. Each building was similar with only the brightly colored flowers hanging out of the window boxes differentiating them. This is Etruscan living as it has been for hundreds of years.

We wandered through the quaint little streets, discovering two ancient villas before we headed up to Villa Lante. It doesn’t take much time to wander through but it is so charming I think you are missing something very wonderful if you don’t do it.

So, where is Villa Lante? From the arch it is a quick five minute walk through the other (“modern”) side of town to make it to the Villa. Again there is a contrast as you approach the Villa property, the walls and gates reflect the age and give a sense of how open it must have been when Villa Lante was built. It is as if this village popped up between the Villa Lante and the Etruscan area of Bagnaia.

Villa Lante’s construction began in 1566. It was originally a hunting lodge until 1549 when an aqueduct was added to the property. This meant the area could be changed into a beautiful garden. Cardinal Gambera saw the opportunity to transform this property into a garden that would equal or surpass the Villa d’Este, south of Rome. Gambera was interested in doing so in order to compete with his rival Cardinal d’Este. Villa d’Este had been built as a jab at the Pope who had not promoted d’Este. Luckily for all of us this was the way many Cardinals handled their frustration or anger with the church.

As you walk into the garden you are met with an exceptional Pegasus fountain flanked by a staircase leading to the villa on one side and a path leading to the open grounds on the other. One of the surprises of Villa Lante is that it is not one grand villa but two Mannerist style villas, built 30 years apart, that mirror one another in style and size.

The Mannerist style of the villas is the perfect compliment for this structured garden. The simple yet elegant lines do not detract from the gorgeous gardens in front of or behind it. The view from the hotel of the manicured section of the garden with the town of Bagnaia behind is absolutely stunning. The grand fountain in the middle adds to the elegance of the manicured garden.

Then up the staircases the ancient trees and another large fountain welcome you in to this stunning space. There is such tranquility in the gardens, the trees, the sound of the fountain and the vista behind. I immediately slowed down wanting to linger in each space as we wound our way to the next level.

It is here that a long “table” meets guests. The cool running water filled from the gorgeous trailing fountain above. This “table” was once used as the place wine was chilled for all guests of the gardens. The massive fountain must have been even more breathtaking when filled with cold wine.

The next level of gardens leads to a stunning water feature, similar to one found in Villa d’Este in Tivoli. The slow dripping water lands onto a bed of soft green. Inside each of the three alcoves are small statues of muses. The fountain was designed to represent the nature flow of water. The effect is incredible. Flanked on either side by mythological men and two small buildings. It is a large courtyard of serenity.

Unfortunately when the Pope first saw the beauty of the gardens he decided they were too extravagant and cut the stipend of Cardinal Gambara. This stipend was given to the Cardinals whose family were not wealthy, it was meant to be used to live in the dignity of their office. In this Cardinal Gambara succeeded, he created a lavish space worthy of even the most wealthy family.

It is ironic the garden has been used in movies like “The Two Popes” and series like “The Young Pope” to depict the Vatican garden. I hope that this wasn’t defeating for the Cardinal since he created such an incredible space for generations.

If you have the time, on a visit to Rome or to the Truscia region stop in Bagnaia, have a coffee and walk through this garden. If you want to tour the villas they are only open on certain days of the week so check the website to plan your trip.

So where is Villa Lante? Coming from Rome travel the 80km taking the Via Cassia to Viterbo, then follow signs. Similarly, if you are using public transport you should get from Rome to Viterbo, then take a local bus for the last leg of your journey. If you are driving along the Autostrada del Sole (A1) you should leave at the Orte exit.

italy art

Is Norcia Proscuitto The Best? Finding Authentic Norcineria’s.

There is one thing I have learned about Italians after living here for a year and a half. They are resilient and they are proud of it. The Italians pass on from generation to generation the importance of carrying on because nothing stays the same. Nowhere in Italy has this been as evident as it was in Norcia.

As with all towns, villages and cities in Italy Norcia has a long history. St. Benedict, the founder of modern Monasticism was born in Norcia. Benedictine monks still live in Norcia. Because of them Norcia was one of the first places to establish a center to begin studying and performing surgery. It began by studying pigs, whose organs are very similar to humans. Pigs have since become a very important part of Norcia’s economy and fame.

The butchers in Norcia are famous for their precision and skill. In fact, when Queen Victoria needed surgery performed on her eye she sent for a Norcian butcher to help perform the surgery. This was due to their reputation for exceptional precision.

These butcher stores are called “Norcineria” throughout the region. This special name is an homage to their skill, not only in cutting the meat but in curing it. The flavor, due to the lentils the pigs are fed also contribute to its flavor. Being a vegetarian I can’t comment on the flavor. However, my friends and the lines of people clamoring for proscuitto, salami etc. assured me it is indeed something special. I preferred the local lentils, the delicious cheeses (especially Pecorino and Caciotta) along with the farro and local truffles.

These butchers are what took us to Norcia. I knew there had been a few earthquakes that had done a tremendous amount of damage to the area. Before we walked through the ancient walls I had no idea what the situation was truly like. Norcia is located in a valley in between the hills and mountains of Umbria (on the border of Marche). It is surrounded by National parks along with great hiking and biking trails.

In between all of this lush green, off the beaten path of the main Umbrian roads, there is a small town surround by an ancient wall. When I first walked through the gate the town was quiet, almost eerily so. I didn’t think much about it since it was risposa (resting time in the afternoon) and COVID-19 so Italian streets have changed from the bustling energetic places they used to be.

The Norcineria’s were open and several were bustling with people, who like us, had come to sample the famous meats and cheeses. In true Italian form the butcher was jovial and incredibly proud to be sharing tastings of his products.

As we made our way to the main Piazza (square) of the town it became glaringly obvious that the 2016 earthquake had done a massive amount of damage to the town and to its historical landmarks. Standing in the Piazza St. Benedectine, I looked across at buildings ravaged by a 6.6 earthquake 5 years ago. The ancient white stones remained in place by sheer will, a determination all too familiar to the Italians.

Throughout the town, in between the cracked buildings, the chained up doorways to homes that once welcomed its inhabitants, a few Norcineria’s remain. Newly renovated restaurants wait to serve delectable dishes. The homes that are still inhabited are beautifully groomed, with flowers and plants bringing life back to the town.

I loved walking through the town, seeing the old buildings propped up by modern scaffolding. Wiring keeps them intact until the restoration crews can attend to them. As the rest of the world pauses waiting for the COVID-19 pandemic to pass Norcia continues to rebuild.

Carpenters, brick masons, and other reconstruction groups work carefully and slowly to rebuild the town into the beautiful oasis it once was. The people who remain in the town, most having been displaced to temporary housing outside of the ancient walls, continue to give it life and joy.

At the end of our walk through town we sat outside a lovely restaurant, sharing a bottle of wine. We watched the elders gather in the Piazza, laughing and talking. When we asked the restaurant owner what it was like after the earthquake she explained that it was very difficult. Not nearly as much as the virus has been. While her sadness was evident when she said this her gracious Italian character overwhelmed us. She proudly served up a lovely antipasti, and a beautiful wine, determined to let her resilience shine.

Norcia is a lovely town, definitely worth the visit if you are in Umbria, not only for the Norcineria’s, the cheeses and the wines but also for a glimpse of the strength of the human spirit, and living example of a society that values history and tradition over speed and convenience.

travel art

What About Your Feet?

    Today I started thinking about my feet. Not in a weird random way but in a more profound way. I realized my feet have been such a blessing.

    My feet have carried me through this beautiful life. They have climbed mountains in Sri Lanka, walked through rain forests and cloud forests around the world. My feet have run from a large Orangutan in Indonesia, and have run towards a loved one I have missed desperately. My feet have walked miles through airports leading me to adventures, and short distances on a sandy beach to lay quietly in a hammock.

    My feet have stood in defiance against someone who was trying to hurt me, they have walked slowly towards love as I prepared to say “I do”. They walked backwards in fins as I made my way into the ocean to dive. My feet ran fast as I chased my sister when I was young, and slowly as I let my nieces, nephews and grandchildren beat me in a race.

    My feet have climbed stairs to reach the tops of Buddhist temples and to ride death defying roller coasters. They have tried their best to steady me on paddle boards, and on ice skates but there they have not succeeded. My feet have walked across graduation stages, and supported me, even though my legs shook relentlessly, as I gave a public speech. They stood firmly as I walked into my first day of school as a volunteer English teacher-

    My feet have walked quickly through hospitals to meet new members of my family, and stoically as I walked to loved ones who were sick. They stood strong as blood ran down my face, able to hold fast even though I was in shock.

    My feet have been still as I have hugged and held the people I love. They have carried me away and carried me towards every moment in my life.

    Yet I took them for granted as they moved me through beautiful landscapes, pushed the pedals on my bike or steadied me as I held a crying child. No matter how tired they were my feet moved me through my business for years to help customers, to build relationships, and to create memories.

    Today my feet are a reminder of the beautiful life I have, the experiences I have had and the moments, all of the beautiful moments that have shaped me, defined me and blessed me.

    Over this past year I have not relied on them as much as normal, too many lockdowns and quarantines, but I know they are waiting to begin again-to start new adventures, to experience new things, to stand in strength when necessary and to lead me through the doors of my families homes. I know they will never fail me because that is not who I am. So for now I give them a rest, I remember all of the beauty I have experienced because of them and I vow to buy some really fantastic shoes to do them proud.

    As all of us tire of the pandemic, of the restrictions and of aching hearts yearning to see the ones we love-perhaps it is worth taking a moment and giving thanks for what we have had-for all of the little moments, the huge moments, the quiet moments, the loud moments and the moments that are still waiting to be discovered.

    The Best Things To See and Do In Tropea Italy

      Choosing a place to visit in Italy isn’t easy. There are hundreds of beautiful villages, UNESCO sites and gorgeous cities to choose from. Picking one can be overwhelming. In order to choose I went through pictures I have saved on Pinterest to find inspiration and there it was-Tropea. Located in Calabria at the tip of the toe of Italy Tropea was exactly what I needed, a quiet town right on the sea with jaw dropping views.

      Once I booked the trip, we started telling our Italian friends where we were headed and their enthusiastic responses confirmed I had chosen the right place. Tropea is a few hours train ride south of the Amalfi coast, located on the west coast of Italy. For us it was a 10-hour train journey, some of which was along the amazing coastline with views of the sea, the small seaside villages and stunning sandy beaches.

      We arrived in Tropea at night and despite the lack of tourists the town was full of life-the Italians dressed in their stunning dresses, fitted dress shirts with hair and make-up done to perfection spilled into the piazzas and streets. As neighbors stopped to gaze into strollers and coo over little children, it became immediately evident this was a tight knit community. Tropea’s main street runs from the train station to the end of the center of town (Centro Storico) and it is the gathering place of the locals and the tourists at night. We enjoyed our first dinner-pizza with the famous Tropea Onions- taking in the sounds of soccer game aired at restaurants around us. I was overwhelmed with a feeling that we had been invited into someone’s backyard party where friends and family gather to share a special moment. Captivated by this feeling I didn’t want to go back to the hotel so we joined the locals and headed through the town towards the sea. Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the main street) leads us to the cliffs on which the town of Tropea is built. When we reached the end, standing at the railing in the blackness of night a glow emerged-it was the stunning Santuario di Santa Maria (Santa Maria Sanctuary). The sandstone formation provides the foundation for the stunning church which has occupied it for hundreds of years. In the past this formation was an island but earthquakes caused by the largest underground volcano in Europe forced the earth up from the sea and joined the Isla Bella (Beautiful Island) to the town of Tropea.

      The glow from the light below cast mysterious shadows across the island and the church. Each piece of vegetation adding its own dimension to the eerie scene in front of us. 11:00 at night and the vibrance of the town was contagious, spurring us to continue exploring. Walking down a narrow street shadows cast between the streetlights, the cobblestones quietly reflecting the light and small alleys revealed quaint restaurants sparkling in their hanging lights. When the street opened up to a Piazza there, we found the shimmering sea below the moons glow and the Sanctuary. It stood with pride, captivating all of us standing along the railing, glowing from across the cliff, enchanting all of us. I knew at that point Tropea was a very special place.

      Exploring Tropea:

      Generally, we like to spend our first day in any town walking, discovering, taking pictures and planning what we want to do for the rest of the trip. Anxious to continue discovering what the town had begun to reveal to us the night before we set out with camera in hand and began to wander the narrow cobblestone streets that make up this quaint town. The buzz of the night before had ceased and instead was a quiet empty town, waiting for the sun to fall and life to start again. (Covid-19 has left most towns in Italy with no tourists and Tropea was the same.) Immediately it was apparent we had left the refined architecture of Tuscany behind us and instead found a rustic architecture reflective of the sandstone cliffs the town was built upon. Large holes scatter along the sides of beige stone buildings, a clue to where the scaffolding would have been placed when the buildings were built. The cobblestones on the streets looked immaculately polished from hundreds of years of pedestrians moving throughout the city.

      The narrow streets each lead to a spectacular view, whether it is the sea, the Sanctuary, the surrounding mountains or the marina. With anticipation we walked to the end of each street wondering what surprise awaited us. We were never disappointed. Along the way we discovered restaurants with bikes full of flowers outside, buildings with beautiful iron balconies, crests carved into the stone above doorways and markets with the famous fare of Tropea hanging beautifully outside.

      Famous Foods of Tropea:

      Tropea is famous for its beautiful red onions. The unique onions carry the esteem of being UNESCO protected. The onions, which locals claim are sweet enough to be eaten like an apple, are braided together with their browned stalks and hung from the outsides of buildings ready for purchase. They hang alongside another of Tropea’s specialties: pepperoncini (chili peppers) which hang in small groups drying in the sun.  The purple of the onions, the red of the pepperoncini mixed with the groups of hanging white garlic are create a natural art-proudly displaying the culture of Tropea.

      Nduja is the other food Tropea is famous for. It is a spicy sausage bearing the intense red color of the pepperoncini which flavor them. Shop owners vacuum pack them and stack them in baskets in a beautiful display for all who are brave enough to try them. Being a vegetarian, I left that task to J.

      Beaches of Tropea:

      Tropea was built on sandstone cliffs 2000 years ago. Pirates were ravaging the coastal villages so the solution was to build this town on the high cliffs, allowing them to spot the pirates from far distances. Carefully they perched the homes on top of the sandstone cliffs where they still stand solidly today. The narrow streets were a strategic decision to help the locals in the event the pirates invaded the cities. This decision was great for defense against pirates but does mean navigating down about 200 steps to reach the beaches below. Yes, this sounds daunting but the gorgeous views of the city and the sea distract from the intensity of the climb.

      Once we reached the bottom of the stairs, we were rewarded with crystal clear turquoise water gently rolling into the sandy shores. Each beach along Tropea’s coastline offers something different, be it rocky arches and caves, restaurants or simple vegetation as a backdrop.   On each beach the turquoise water eventually gives way to sapphire blue water which leads your eye to the Aeolian islands, including the volcano Stromboli, and eventually to Sicily.

      At night people gather in the Piazza Cannone to watch the sunset into the water next to Stromboli. On our second evening we did as the locals do, we dressed up, grabbed a seat in the café ordered a cocktail and took as many pictures as possible of Stromboli, and the incredible glowing sunset. This is also the best place to view the Santa Maria Sanctuary.  With the backdrop of the setting sun the Piazza filled with laughter, romantic couples kissing and people with cameras trying desperately to capture the radiance of the setting sun.

      The Coast:

      On our final day in Tropea we booked a boat trip to Capo Vaticano, along the coast of the Gods, including snorkeling over an ancient Roman port built over 2,000 years ago. Dramatic sandstone cliffs line the coast with large stone outcroppings, arches and clear turquoise water. As the boat sped through the Tyrrhenian Sea we watched the fish swim below. The tour ended at the Capo Vaticano where a lighthouse stands on the highest coastal peak in Italy. In the water across from the peak is a small rock formation-the vaticano. It was named the vaticano because in ancient Greek times they believed an oracle lived in the cave at the bottom of the peak. Sailors would consult with the oracle before they went out to sea.

      From this point we could see the tip of the toe of Italy and the island of Sicily. It was hard for me to be this close to Sicily and not continue on to the island. Later this summer, I hope…

      Where We Stayed:

      The TownHouse Tropea was our hotel of choice due to its fantastic location in the center of town, and the gorgeous rooftop balcony. They were incredibly helpful and kind during our visit. The room was great and even had a partial view of the sea and Stromboli. I would definitely stay with them again if we returned to Tropea.

      Where We Ate:

      There are many restaurants in Tropea so picking places to eat wasn’t always easy. We had a great recommendation from Virginia at The TownHouse Tropea to have pizza at Little Italy (ask for the Margarita with red onions). That’s Amore is a fantastic fish restaurant right in the heart of the center so it is great people watching as well. For vegetarians they offered a few dishes as well.

      La Dogana ristorante has fantastic food with an incredible setting outside with white stone walls, white tableclothed tables, flowering vines growing on the walls and across the seating area. I was disappointed with their lack of vegetarian options-not really wanting a pizza in such a nice restaurant. But the ambiance was definitely worth it!

      Excursions:

      We booked our tour with SeaSports Tours. They were incredible. The captain spoke fluent English and was careful to make sure he always translated all of the tour into English. They also offered a “happy hour” or appertivi at the end of the tour which was lovely.

      My Favorite Shop:

      I found La Casetta del Piccantino (Vico Mezzatesta, 1) in Centro which was charming, and completely authentic. They make all of their sausages, sauces, etc. in the family-including an amazing cheese with a picante crust. He sells his families Nduja sausage as well as their hand made salumi. The ambiance of products lining the shelves, the pride of the owner and the gorgeous pepperoncini hanging from the ceilings made this place the best spot we found in Tropea. (The food is vacuum packed-easy to buy and travel with.)

      A trip to this Calabrian town will never disappoint and may even teach you a few things about how to live a life full of laughter, great food, and romance.  

      Life After Quarantine

      Two weeks ago, Italy began lifting its strict lockdown. Before we were allowed outside, I had begun thinking about life after quarantine. I realized through our two-month lockdown what the most important things in my life are. So, would my life after quarantine allow me to enjoy those things again and if so, how long would it take?  I was afraid life would feel empty if we weren’t allowed to return to normal.

      This is what has happened, what I have learned and what I am still looking forward to.

      Lockdown for me was not a difficult thing. Not that I love being inside-I don’t-but in perspective to what other people were facing, and losing my life was easy. J and I were able to move to our new apartment in Lucca right before the lockdown (with impending restrictions our move had to be donw by bicycle!) providing a fantastic distraction for a few weeks as we settled into our new home. We have a terrace so we were able to enjoy the outdoors even if we weren’t able to move around outside. Our new apartment is beautiful and everything we dreamt our new home in Lucca, Italy would be.

      But things were missing. It felt empty without the family that was supposed to be visiting during the two months we were in lockdown, and without the laughter and companionship of our amazing friends. After weeks of not being able to pinpoint exactly what was bothering me, I began to understand that at the core of who I am there is an adventurer. All of you who follow my blog know by now I love to explore, to experience new places and cultures and find new adventures. This was obviously impossible as I wasn’t even allowed to take a walk through our town. But I am a patient person and I know Italy was doing what was necessary to keep us all safe.

      So, what was the root of the root of the problem? It was the inability to plan, to dream and to look forward to what would be coming next.

      Then our lockdown was eased. My bicycle was immediately put to use. J and I began riding along the river, exploring local nurseries and taking rides through small towns in our commune (county). It felt good-it felt great! Yet it was strange as we have to wear masks, stand in lines and can’t shop together. But no complaints. We were out of the house.

      As our deck filled with flowers from our shopping excursions, I began to dream again about what it will be like to have our home filled with friends and family. I started planning trips through our stunning adopted country and to make plans with friends for our getaways. Life after quarantine began to look like we may be back to what is most important to me. Friends, family, travel and exploring.

      I realize now that as long as I still have the ability to dream, to think of a future filled with the things that are the most important to me it is all I need (okay, a hair cut would be really fantastic after 3 months but…). Today as I sat in the piazza at our favorite coffee shop life behind our masks, at a social distance started to feel like the best of the life I had before. Once again, I have a travel list, once again I have plans with friends and I know it will only be a matter of time before I can see my family and show them around this beautiful country, I now call home. Does it matter that it is lived behind a mask or at a distance-not really, because as with everything in life this is only temporary.

      To read more about my quarantine experience you can check out my post on In Africa And Beyond (there are other interesting stories about Life In Lockdown as well!)

      Exit mobile version