Inspirations From World Travelers: Fiona

I found Fiona’s blog, Just Me and a Boarding Pass, one day when I was searching for information about a destination. I loved her spirit and approach to travel so I started reading more of her posts. Soon I asked her to join me on the 30seconds.com travel page as a contributor. Her sense of adventure always shines through and inspires me. I hope my recent interview with Fiona will inspire you too!

How old were you when your family started traveling?

My parents love to travel, ever since I was born, they would pack me up in a car and go for drives, day trips, to just get out of the house and go somewhere different.  My first trip on an aeroplane was when I was three years old, and my parents took me to Cairns to visit my grandparents.  We lived in Sydney, and Cairns was just so different to that.  Tropical weather, country town lifestyle, the smell of burning sugar cane at night, and Mangoes that grew on trees in the street. I made that trip so many times again during the school holidays in the following years, and in the end, Mum & Dad would just put me on the plane in Sydney, and my grandparents would collect me at the other end.

I am a big proponent of traveling with children so they can see and experience the different cultures around the world. Do you think traveling as a child affected who you are as an adult? If so how?

I wholeheartedly agree with that.  I treasure all my memories of childhood holidays like jewels. My Mum is always planning and researching her next holiday.  Talk of visiting other places and countries was normal to us, I never knew anything different.  Every couple of months, we would have a slide night, where we would hang up a white sheet background and view the photos of our holidays –  tell the stories, and “remember when’s until it was so late we were yawning and falling asleep. My parents gave me the gift of a love for travel.

Do you travel often with your children?

My children (three boys)  are all grown now.  We were never able to take the kids overseas when they were young, but we did travel within Australia with them.  My husband and I owned a transport company when the kids were young, so there were many interstate family road trips where we all piled in to the truck and took off for a few days!  We also took interstate road trips in the car, which was a challenge, because we had three car sick kids!  There were also a couple of trips by plane.  And of course, I made sure I took them to see Cairns! It is interesting to see that all the boys have an interest for overseas travel as well!   My eldest took himself to Canada just after he finished school and lived at Whistler for 2 years –he loved it so much, he wanted the whole family to move over there!  He came home eventually, but he’s now fascinated with China and has learnt to speak Mandarin and goes to China for language trips while he sees the sights.  My husband and I took our middle son with us to New Zealand a few years ago and since then he’s been to Bali, and Ireland, Venice, Spain, and France!  I am so proud of them – I always encouraged them to travel overseas to see what life is like there.  I believe that they need to see how things are in other parts of the world to appreciate what they have at home.

What has been your favorite destination? Why?

I would have to say that the Greek Islands is my favourite destination. My parents took me to Greece and the Greek Islands when I was 9 years old.  I had such an amazing time that I wanted to go back again ever since.  In 2017, my dream came true and I went back with my parents, my uncle and his wife, and my cousin! Everything was just as fabulous as I remembered it from 38 years ago.  I would go back tomorrow!

What is your most memorable traveling experience good or bad?

My grandparents (the ones from Cairns) were Dutch.  They spoke Dutch with their friends, but I never learned the language as a child (unfortunately) – just words here and there. But they always used to talk to me about how things were done in Holland, and what the customs were.  The Dutch do this…., the Dutch say this….   My most memorable experience was when I visited the Netherlands for the first time and walked around hearing the language and being in the country that they came from, and seeing first-hand the customs and traditions that I had heard about my whole life.

What destinations top your travel list right now?

I’m heading to France with my Husband in February.  I’m very keen to get back to the Netherlands around April or May. I want to see the Tulips in the Keukenhof Gardens, and I have been learning Dutch so I want to do a language trip! – I’m working on convincing my brother to come with me for this one. I also have a trip to Ireland with my Sister and my Parents in the planning stages at the moment.

 How do you find the time to travel while raising a family?

It’s tough when the kids are young.  And really difficult financially – the more kids you have, the harder it is to travel.  When the kids were small, we just kept it to day trips or weekends – things that were affordable for us at the time. But still broadened their horizons and let them see different things from the every day.

What is the best thing you have learned from traveling?

An appreciation of the differences in cultures between every country. This never fails to fascinate me, and as I learn the cultural idiosyncrasies of each country I feel that I take that knowledge home with me and it becomes part of me, like a living souvenir.  (I love this!!!)

What are your top tips for traveling in different countries with language barriers and cultural differences?

I always try to learn important phrases in the relevant language, the numbers, days of the week, that sort of thing.  And I take a phrase book, so if I get stuck, I can flick to the phrase and just show it to the person so they can read what I am trying to communicate.  I had to do this in Germany – I wanted to try on something that was in the shop window – and that phrase was in my phrase book ( luckily ) and I just showed the lady in the store and she was all smiles!  ( I ended up buying it too, so then I was all smiles!)  Now days, if you have the internet, you could probably just use google translate.  But I love having the confidence of the phrase book – I know it’s going to work even if the internet lets me down. It’s also important to try and learn about, and avoid, any behaviours which could be considered offensive in the country you are visiting.

What is the one thing you can’t travel without?

My travel diary! I must always take an actual book to write in. One time I thought that I would be all digital and take notes of the holiday on my ipad.  Biggest mistake I ever made.  Took the notes, and then the app crashed and all my holiday memories – Gone!   I had to re-construct everything from itinerary and looking things up on google.  But I’ll never get back my thoughts and feelings that I had recorded about that trip.

Do you have a favorite tip for surviving long flights and jet lag?

Being from Australia, I could probably be indulged for thinking that I know a thing or two about long haul flights!! Hahah.

Long Flights: Let yourself slip into the mystical land of what I call “Plane Time”.  No matter what the time of day when you board, as soon as the aircraft doors are closed, you are in another time zone.  Go with it.   Each of the different scheduled events in a flight help to pass the time, so make the most of them.  Make the most of meal times – don’t rush through.  Try to sleep when the crew “put you to bed” – dimming the cabin lights etc.  When you are awake, drink a lot of water – this will keep you hydrated, as well asup and walking around periodically to use the bathroom, and stretch your legs at the same time.

Jet Lag: Regardless of the time you touch down in the new time zone, as soon as you arrive, put yourself into that schedule.  If you arrive at 8am and you haven’t slept for 16 hours  –  don’t nap!   – instead, go out into the daylight and walk around. Go for a swim, or go to the shops or the  supermarket.  Anything to keep active and moving.  Drink lots of water during the day – this helps signal to your body that this is the “awake” time.  Then go to sleep in the evening, after your meal.  Do this for the first two days, and by the third day your body should feel like it is in the new time zone with you.

Thank you so much Fiona!!

You can read about Fiona’s travels on her blog, Just Me And A Boarding Pass

or find her sharing her experiences on 30seconds.com travel page.

Check out another one of my world traveller interviews here.

Amazing Things To Do In Beautiful Budva

After our amazing two weeks in Kotor we moved on to Budva. It was so hard to leave Kotor, we felt at home there, but our travels must continue. Arriving in Budva was a lot different than Kotor. There is a mall, modern hotels and a lot more people. However, once you get through that there is a walled in city very similar to Kotor but with more of a party atmosphere than the very laid back Kotor.

The ancient walls actually connect to the beach and sit on the edge of the sea. It is a fantastic place to sit on the beach, drink a beer and take in the hills, the ancient walls, and bustle of the wide stone walkway.

During our week there it was the annual festival week. Every night was a different event with bands, parades, costumes, and ceremonies. We spent many nights sitting in the outdoor restaurants and taking in some great entertainment. There is a vibrancy in Budva that doesn’t exist in Kotor.

During the day we kept busy with all of the things there are to do in the area.

Walk around Old Town

The Old Town section of Budva is pretty small, just a few streets but they are full of great restaurants, cafes, shops and beautiful stone buildings. We loved walking through, taking pictures and people watching from a cafe or bar. Inside the walls everything is stone and every street leads you to the sea, pretty great!

Walk To Sveti Stefan (or go by car for the less walking inclined)

If you ask J.  at certain points during the day we decided to do this walk it was a great idea and one of his least favorites I have had. It is a long walk, at least 2.5 hours ( 9 km or 5.6 miles), through some beautiful villages, run down areas and highways with no sidewalks. For me that means adventure, for J. in the heat, not so much. Yet either way the reward towards the end was worth it. (and we did take a taxi back to Budva, compromise…)

We used several different blogs for directions, I liked this one best. Definitely have your directions down before you go as many people along the way will be very discouraging if you ask for directions (more proof to J. that this was not my best idea).

We started the walk along the Piazza beach and then through some hotel areas, tunnels and then on to some beaches. We stopped here for some water, relaxing sea views and the beginning of gorgeous Budva views. The walk took us through Becici, Przno (which is so quaint and hidden away from the rest of the world) where there is a pretty ruin on the edge of a rock outcropping in the sea, then a beautiful walk through some woods, and hotel property. Finally reaching our favorite part of the walk, the King’s Residence in Milocer Bay. The elegant boutique hotel sits parallel to a gorgeous private bay where all you want to do is sit and spend the day under the grapevine arbor. So, we did, it was delicious and beautiful.

From the King’s Residence we walked up the hill overlooking the bay which was stunning. Then, the view of Sveti Stefan. This little private island is so picturesque it feels as if it were put there just for photo ops. Taking the walk we were granted a more private view of the island than you get from everywhere else. The island is one big resort so unless you are a guest or pay for a guided tour there is no entrance. We declined doing this and just enjoyed the view from our quiet spot under the trees. You can also pay 80-100 euro to have a seat on the private side of the beach for the day or you can sit on the other side for free which is public.

Paragliding

So J. really wanted to paraglide off the mountains surrounding Budva. We tried for days but the weather kept stopping us from going. Then, on our last day we got the call we were going to go that day! As we sat waiting at a cafe for the company to pick us up we watched the clouds roll in, not a good sign for paragliding. I wasn’t sure whether to be relieved or disappointed. To our surprise the jump was still on. An old Yugo station wagon picked us up and we climbed in with three guys, and two huge parachutes (J. is 6’3″ so him in the middle of all of this in the Yugo station wagon was pretty funny.

Then the adventure began, we would drive up one road, only to turn around (sometimes in the middle of a highway) to try another jumping point, then turn around and go back to the original one, all in search of a spot with good conditions. Finally we got on an all clear on our original spot and we headed up the mountain in the Yugo. If you haven’t already deduced this our driver was pretty intense, and English was not their best language. Pretty soon we hit heavy fog and our driver pulled off the road onto a narrow pathway. We were a bit nervous, but the worst was yet to come.

Soon we were almost at the top of the mountain on a road barely wider than the car, completely covered in clouds. Our driver put the car in reverse and started to back down the narrow road. No one could see anything except the tiny road we were on. I can honestly tell you I have never been so afraid in a car before. Yet the driver knew exactly what he was doing and we arrived safely.

They began pulling the parachutes out and setting them up as J. and I watched the clouds settle in. We walked to the edge of the cliff and could see nothing below, in front or above us. In the end I think this may have been a blessing.

The men called us over, strapped us to them and the parachute and then said all the words they would say. “I say run, you run. I say sit, you sit.” There we stood strapped to the men and the parachutes and my legs began to shake uncontrollably. My mind could not process that I was going to be jumping off of a mountain where I could see nothing around me. J. jumped first and then my heart started beating rapidly. He was gone in a second and through the clouds nothing was visible.

Then, “Run!” and somehow my body did it. Then, “Sit” and somehow I did it. I was shaking uncontrollably but I was flying. Then in a few moments we fell below the clouds and the land was below, the ocean stretching out beyond the mountains. It was beautiful. My heart began to slow down, I slowly relaxed and glided through the air.

It was an amazing experience by true professionals! The feeling of gliding and the views of the trees, then the city, then the sea below was fantastic! You should definitely do this and go with the company we used, they were incredible!

Walk Along The Beach

There are several beach areas in Budva. One is the small little area next to the ancient walls which is really just for having a drink, and watching the waves.

On the other side of the mountain is Mogren Beach. Here you can walk along the base of the mountain with the waves crashing towards the rocks underneath the walkway. At a few points you must make your way through cut outs in the mountain and follow the path to Mogren Beach. It is a pebble beach so be prepared for that. We made our way around the beach and onto the rocks to take in some pretty great views of the Old Town and the sea beyond.

The third beach is Pizana Beach. This is the newer part of Budva. Lined with restaurants and a large pedestrian walkway it is where more of the action is. This was not our favorite part of Budva. The area was a bit run down and not as clean feeling as the other beaches. There are souvenir and inexpensive clothing shops all along the walkway on the other side of the restaurants. It was definitely not as well manicured or clean as every other place we have been in Montenegro.

Ostrog Monastery

This was a highlight of our trip to Montenegro. The trip can be made from Kotor as well as Budva. We travelled with our amazing tour guide and friend, Anja. Founded in the 17th century this beautiful monastery is built into the side of the large rock of Ostroska Greda. The facade we saw was given to the monastery in the 1920’s after a fire destroyed most of the older building. The gorgeous white monastery now nestles in contrast to the surrounding beige and brown mountain.

Another narrow and curvy road takes you past two other churches, both quite beautiful in themselves. Many locals stop at the first church to give thanks before heading up to Ostrog. The journey can also be done by foot, a pilgrimage which many people from all faiths and locations do yearly. While over 100,000 people per year visit the monastery it felt peaceful and serene while we were there.

As we made our way up the staircase in front of the monastery I was really overcome with the view, and the simplistic beauty. There was nothing pretentious here, just a deep devotion to faith. The first building we entered was the cave-church. A very small area where the body of Vasilijie, the founding Metropolitan Bishop, is laid to rest. Inside there are beautiful frescoes on the walls. We waited our turn to walk in to the tiny room where a priest sat with the remains of Vasilijie. Here a man requested the priest do a blessing for all of us. In this church your religion, or non-religion is of no concern, they welcome and bless everyone. Since this is what I believe we should be doing every day it was a very cool thing to see a church doing.

From the cave church we made our way to the Upper church where people fill out sheets of paper requesting prayers for loved ones. Then it was up the stairs to the balconies overlooking the valley. In the stairways and the balconies are gorgeous mosaic murals with vibrant golds, blues, and reds telling the stories of unity or of the bible. Each space in the monastery felt so special whether it was outside amidst the mountain breezes, inside the monastery, or in the cave church.

There is a very large store there where everything has been blessed by the monks. They make herbal remedies, liquors, honey, jewelry and more.

 Porto Montenegro Village

In the middle of the ancient towns of Kotor and Budva the area of Porto Montenegro was built from the rubble of an historic naval base. Peter Monk, along with Lord Jacob Rothschild saw a need for a luxury yacht marina in the area so they revitalized this area of Tivat into just that. This thriving, high-end area is as luxurious as they come. Full of high-end shops, luxury places to stay, good restaurants, a marina, and gorgeous views of the sea Porto Montenegro Village is quite a surprise, seated amongst ancient towns and National Parks!

The Versatile Blogger Award

Recently I was nominated for The Versatile Blogger award by Fiona Wiley at one of my favorite blogs Just Me And A Boarding Pass.  I love reading about her travels and checking out her pictures. She has helped my travel wish list grow! Fiona has been traveling since she was a child. I love her perspective on travel, the unique places she visits and her resolution to follow her passion by continuing to travel even when she had kids at home.

Rules of the Versatile Blogger Award

  • Thank the person that nominated you for this award
  • Link their blog to this post
  • Select up to 15 blogs/bloggers that you either regularly follow or discovered recently
  • Nominate them for this awesome Versatile Blogger Award with links to their sites.
  • Write 7 things about yourself

So here are 7 things about me:

  1. My worldly possessions are comprised of a Jeep Wrangler, a suitcase full of clothes, 5 boxes, and some artwork currently hanging in my sons house. That is it! Everything else I sold 2 1/2 years ago when my husband and I decided to travel the world.
  2. My first job was working at Baskin Robbins Ice Cream shop when I was 15. I thought it would be awesome to work around all that ice cream but it turns out scooping it all day long is really hard and quickly made me sick of ice cream.
  3. I love to knit and cook and garden. I miss these when I am traveling so whenever we go back to the States I am a maniac trying to plant things in other people’s yards, and cooking and knitting everything I can think of.
  4. My biggest dream is to have a novel I have written published. I am working on it now, along with querying two kids books, so fingers crossed!!!
  5. I am obsessed with libraries. I walk in to them and it is like the whole world opens up to me, I can learn anything, travel anywhere just get lost in fictional worlds. All for free!
  6. My other dream is to continue to have opportunities to hands on volunteer like I did in Honduras a few years ago. It was the most amazing experience. I have been so blessed in my life and I want to give back what has been given to me.
  7. I have been a vegetarian for 17 years. It makes traveling more interesting, both good and bad. But, I can’t imagine ever going back to eating meat, which is good because J. (my husband) would be upset if he had to start sharing his bacon.

I nominate the following bloggers:

Emily Youngman from This Is An Adventure blog. Her travels and pictures are so inspirational to me. I love the way she writes about each place she visits. She travels to well known places and lesser known places always with a fresh perspective and great ideas on how to really experience a place.

Joshi Daniel inspires me beyond any other photographer right now. His photos are inspiring, beautiful, unique and elegant-beyond words. I look forward to every post he makes. I can’t get enough. He is always able to expose not only his subjects humanity but also his own. It is like looking into their souls each time you see a photo, even his travel photography is so expressive. I dream of one day taking even one photo to rival his!

VRS Skimo Team blog is one of my favorite for outdoor adventures. This group is seriously fearless and I love it. Their pics are amazing as are the places they travel. The group is from Alaska. They travel to amazing places to ski, snowboard, raft, hike and climb. Check out their blog to be totally inspired to get outside and try something new.

Things To Do In Kotor Montenegro

Montenegro has a never ending list of things to do. The people of Montenegro definitely know how to get out and enjoy their beautiful country. So during our two week stay there was never a problem finding things to do in Kotor.

Here is my list of Things To Do In Kotor, based on what we did in the two weeks we were there:

Blue Cave Tour

Not being one for tours J. had to talk me into the speed boat tour of the blue cave and the submarine tunnel. Man am I glad he did. We started out in the Bay of Kotor and then took a beautiful trip on a speed boat through the Bay and out into the open water of the sea. At first I was a little bummed the boat was full but it ended up being a fantastic trip where we talked to everyone, laughed and met some great people.

Okay, the point of the tour…We were going to see and swim in the Blue Cave. We were lucky to be going during April so the cave wouldn’t be full of boats, people and fumes. However this meant cold water. The locals thought we were crazy for even contemplating jumping in but when you are on vacay it is hard not to do things you may never get to do again regardless of the weather.

The thing that is special about the Blue Cave is the reflection of the sunlight through the cave which makes the water an iridescent blue when anything touches it. So of course we had to jump in just to see how we looked as iridescent blue people in the water. Unfortunately the water temp was in the low to mid 60’s! Most people declined jumping in but then three guys jumped in all screaming and getting out of the water as quickly as possible. I had to make up my mind whether or not to jump. Even though they tried to talk me out of it I was already in my bathing suit so I had to go, I might never get this chance again, right? So I jumped into the water, the icy cold water, and without screaming managed to pose for several pictures before swimming back to the boat to try to warm up. It was a cool experience definitely worth doing, although maybe wait until the water is a bit warmer.

The tour also included a stop at the submarine tunnel. I honestly thought this was going to be a waste of time but it ended up being a fabulous part of the tour. I mean how many times in your life can you take a boat into a World War II tunnel where submarines used to hide? Inside the mountain is a cemented tunnel where submarines would pull in during the war to hide from enemies. The hole of the tunnel was creatively crafted to open and close on levers. The gates themselves are a mesh (think chain link fence) which is covered in substances made to look exactly like rocks and foliage on the surrounding mountain. When subs would pull in and the gates would close no one could find them.

The tunnels are such a rare and special sight they were included in the movie Casino Royale.

Our Lady Of The Rocks

In Kotor Bay there are two islets serving as bases for two small churches. The first islet, Sveti Dorde is not open to tourists. The second islet is Our Lady of the Rocks. The legend of the islet is that for centuries seamen, keeping a vow after finding a statue of Madonna and a child on a rock in this location in 1452, would bring rocks back after successful sea voyages. They would pile these rocks in the location where the statue was found. Eventually these rocks built the islet and a church was erected here. The church completely surprised me. It is very elegant and ornate, not what I expected from such a small church on a tiny islet. It is worth the trip over to see the church and take in the astonishing view from the island.

If you are lucky enough to be in Kotor Bay on July 22nd you can witness the locals bringing their boats to the islet and throwing rocks in the water every year, thus continuing the tradition and the expansion of the islet.

We took the tour with Golden Waves and enjoyed the speed boat trip over from Kotor.

Visit Perast

Located on the mainland about thirty minutes from Kotor (or just across the water from Our Lady Of The Rocks) is the town of Perast. The shoreline of Perast is filled with ancient palaces (there are 17 in this tiny little town) and churches (16 to be exact). The white stone buildings reflect the gorgeous sunshine year round, welcoming you to sit and enjoy a leisurely lunch along the sea. We spent about an hour here just walking through the streets. There are some newer buildings mixed in with the old but Perast still maintains a feeling of being untouched by tourists and time.

You can get there by boat on a tour, or by local bus.

St. John’s Fortress

In the past St. John’s hill (actually quite a large mountain, 3,043 feet tall) has served as a natural protection from invaders. It is home to St. John’s fortress which stands 1355 steps up from the town. A hike up to the fortress, along its 72 switchbacks, is not for the faint of heart. However, it is definitely worth the climb. The views are astonishing along the entire route. You can read more about our journey up to the fortress here.

I would definitely recommend going early in the morning before the heat and the crowds. Bring water! Once you reach the top take some time to enjoy the view of the valley between the mountains, it is quite special with ruins and farmers homes. It took us several hours to make it up and back down the mountain. We took our time and enjoyed the journey which I definitely recommend.

The Serpentine Road

Climbing 1400 feet (423 meters) the Serpentine Road is one of the most famous roads in the world. It is both beautiful and slightly terrifying to people afraid of heights, or one and a half lane roads with thousand foot drops and no side rails. J. and I decided not to do the drive ourselves, not just because we felt unqualified to maneuver the 16 hairpin turns over the 5 mile journey but also because we wanted to enjoy the scenery along the way. Anja was our guide for the day (who turned out to be a great friend). She has been driving the road her entire life so for her it is second nature.

Finished in 1884 the road is well maintained and quite treacherous at many points (at least for American drivers). The views of Tivat, Kotor, Kotor Bay and the Adriatic are absolutely breathtaking. Even though J. was terrified most of the drive, he is afraid of heights and roads without guardrails, even he admits it can’t be missed when you are in Kotor, Tivat or Budva. The roads are lined with beautiful trees, flowers and a few locals brave enough to sell their local honey, cheese and grappa.

If you decide to travel the road during the busy months of July and August get an early start to beat the traffic jam of the tour buses and visitors making their way up the mountain. You can travel this road to get to Njegusi and Lovcen National Park.

Njegusi

If you are looking for picturesque, picture perfect, serene, lush, and private then Njegusi is the place for you. Set in a valley of the Lovcen mountains of Kotor this small little village is about as perfect as you can get. Mostly undiscovered it is still home to locals to who brave the winter cold to make cheese, meats, grappa and honey. They farm the land there and host visitors in Eco-houses, offering them a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle, breathe clean air and sleep like they have never slept before.

Njegusi is a great place to find authentic Montenegrin architecture. There are a few restaurants in Njegusi, along with a store and some locals selling their dried meats, cheeses and liquors. In a 2011 census there were 35 declared inhabitants in Njegusi, 33 Montenegrins, 1 Russian and 1 person who didn’t want to declare their ethnicity. Montenegrins spend a good bit of time vacationing in Njegusi to relax and unwind. It is a great half day trip from Kotor, especially if you drive up the Serpentine road or are on your way to Lovcen.

Lovcen National Park & Masoleum of Petar II

Lovcen National Park is a breathtaking area full of mountainous peaks, lush valleys, villages, a lake and the Mausoleum of Petar II. While we were there in April there was still snow on the gorgeous mountains, hidden in crevices untouched by the beautiful Montenegrin sun. Driving from Kotor to Lovcen we slowly slipped away from humanity into a peaceful surrounding of nature. As far as your eye can see at any point there is never a point where we weren’t in awe.

Our destination was the Mausoleum, perched about 5,300 feet up from sea level. The Mausoleum was built in 1974 at the top of one of the two Lovcen mountain peaks. It is the home of the remains of Petar II who was a beloved Prince, Bishop, Philospher and Poet. After winding our way along the road to the Mausoleum, and playing in snow, we began our trek up the 461 steps to the Mausoleum. At this point in our travels 461 steps isn’t that big of a deal but at 5,300 the thin air added a challenge we weren’t expecting.

The locals come to the Mausoleum not only to pay tribute to the beloved leader but also to enjoy the incredible 360 degree views of Montenegro. It is breathtaking to stand at the viewpoint and take in the sea, the mountains, the lakes and cities of Montenegro from this beautiful vantage point.

Lake Skadar National Park

We took a day trip from Kotor to Lake Skadar which was not only a beautiful destination but a breathtaking drive. Our driver, Jovana, took us on the route around the ocean where we saw all the coastal towns and then through gorgeous mountains full of lush evergreens and valleys.

Once we arrived at Lake Skadar we went on a boat ride around the lake, taking in the beautiful natural surroundings, the ancient buildings and hiking up to a monastery. The lake sits partly in Montenegro and partly in Albania. It is the largest lake in Southern Europe. I really enjoyed this but J. was a little disappointed (mostly because it was pretty hot that day I think).

The boat driver did warn that during the summer months it can get really hot on the boats, and the lake so if you go during July or August plan ahead and take water.

Drink coffee at Verige 65

The beautiful restaurant Verige 65 is a destination on its own. We had coffee here with our friend Anja one day which was absolutely divine. The views are incredible as Verige 65 sits right at the neck of the Bay. We sat outside enjoying the view, watching the boats go by and sipping great coffee.

The food at Verige 65 is supposed to be delicious and the atmosphere inside the restaurant is beautiful, perfectly suited for their spot on a cliff in Kotor Bay. Painted on the side of the patio is this saying which I think sums it all up perfectly, ” At the birth of the planet the most beautiful encounter between land and sea must have been on the Montenegro coast.”-Lord Byron

Buy handmade jewelry at Alberto Jewelry store

While we were walking around the old town in Kotor we stumbled upon a family owned jewelry store called Alberto’s. He makes and designs his own jewelry which is really unique and beautiful. The business has been in his family since 1960. J. even had a custom ring made at Alberto’s while we were there. He and his wife are lovely people who help feed the stray cats and dogs in Kotor. (Kotor, Stari Grad 388)

If you have been to Kotor and have other recommendations of things to do leave a comment, I would love to hear about your journey!

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The Breathtaking Town Of Kotor

After traveling along the two lane coastal road of Montenegro for over an hour I had settled into the beautiful scenery. I was content to watch the sea and mountains roll by as we made our way to Kotor. Then, he followed a curve into the Bay of Kotor and literally my mouth dropped open. I hit J. on the arm to make sure he was seeing what I was seeing and to make sure it was real. Suddenly the beautiful scenery became astonishing. Grand mountains tumbling from 5,000-6,000 feet straight into the Adriatic Sea. Tree covered mountains stood in front of grey stone mountains all reaching for the intense blue sky. Our driver smiled as we continued through the small opening of the Bay, we were not the first people to have this response.  Normally not at a loss for words all I was able to say, over and over again was, “How can this be real?”.

Our drivers pride begins to unfold as he tells us about the history of his country as they have obtained their freedom. Then he starts to tell us the long term history and all of the amazing things there are to see in the small country of Montenegro and my excitement peaks. I know I have picked a great country to spend a month. What he was not able to prepare us for was the overwhelming charm of Kotor and its citizens. There was no way for him to prepare us for how strongly we were about to fall in love.

The town of Kotor, protected behind ancient walls built hundreds of years ago, is tucked in the back of the beautiful Bay of Kotor (Boka). It sits like a beautiful pearl in the back of an oyster. As we exited the car to make our way through the walls and into the town the magnificence of the mountains was overwhelming. We spent two weeks there and I never got over those incredible mountains enveloping the town and the bay.

Walking through the gates of Kotor you lose hundreds of years. The town suffered a massive earthquake in 1979 but was rebuilt using the same stones which have been there for hundreds of years. This is why the entire town of Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The narrow streets are all paved in cobblestones slightly darker than the tan and white colored stone buildings. Squares are filled with cafe’s, restaurants, and gelateria’s.

The influence of the Venetians who offered protection the town of Kotor is seen in some of its architecture along with some Austrian influence as well. Kotor has a rich and diverse history which would unfold for us during our stay.

St. John’s Fortress

Above the town, on St. John’s hill is the fortress which loomed over us for a week before the conditions seemed just right for the climb. We started early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowds. The 72 switchbacks and 1355 steps up the 3,043 foot mountain is not as daunting as it sounds. Yes it is hard but with a bottle of water or two, some patience and determination you can make it up and back in only a few hours. Part of the way up the mountain is a cute little chapel where we stopped for a bit of a break before continuing on.

With each new switchback we were offered different views or angles than we had seen before. Kotor Bay was revealing itself to us and then at the top allowed a little peak into the life behind the mountain. Where once there was a church and some other small buildings and now just a single house acting as a keeper to what came before.

The people of Kotor are extremely friendly and full of life. I would sit on our balcony listening as music and laughter wafted through the air. One evening as the music played I looked at J. and told him I was in my heaven.

Kotor is famous for cats. I asked around and everyone had a different reason about why there are so many cats in Kotor. The one that makes the most sense to me is that at one point in time there was a rat problem in Kotor so they brought cats into the town to get rid of the problem. The cats took care of the rats and earned themselves a royal standing in the community ever after. There are souvenir shops dedicated just to cats. There are women who feed them, men who feed them and all store owners who care for them. In turn the cats laze about wherever they choose, in trees, balconies, doorsteps, and store signs. They rule the roost and definitely know it.

Many of the stores in Kotor are now souvenir shops so there isn’t a lot of shopping to do in town unless you dig farmers markets like I do. Every morning, except Sunday, the local farmers set up outside of the wall, right along the sea, and sell beautiful flowers, produce, cheeses, meats and dried fruits. I spent many morning perusing the market, filling my bag with amazing organic fruits and veggies to cook in our Airbnb. While I couldn’t speak the language (a mix between Serbian and Montenegran) the incredible patience of the locals helped guide me through.

Being a vegetarian wasn’t easy in Kotor but with a few great restaurant selections I was able to make it work. J. loved all of the fresh seafood, pasta and the occasional pizza. What they lacked in baked goods they made up for with AMAZING wine! Really, does anything else matter???

Where To Stay:

We stayed in this amazing Airbnb.

I would also recommend this one which offers stunning sea views.

Where To Eat:

Konoba Portun-This was hands down our favorite place to eat. The food and service is amazing and the tables right on the water offer the best views of the bay. It is a really nice 20 minute walk from old town or an easy cab ride. The veggie choices here are fantastic (try the cheese plate and risotto!)

Konoba Scala Santa-There was one veggie option here but it was good. J. loved the ribs.

Old Winery-The food is a little pricey here (still cheap by the rest of Europe standards) but it is worth it. The food is fantastic, the wine is amazing and the location is great. They were really accommodating about being a vegetarian so don’t hesitate to ask, and by all means let them choose the wine to go with your dish. We ate here three or four times.

Pizzeria Sara-This was the best pizza we found in Kotor. The crust was great and although they make their pizza a little different it was delicious. They staff is really sweet too!

What To Do:

There is so much to do in Kotor it will take another blog post to cover it all. You can read about what to see and do here.

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My Favorite Summer Reads Of 2018

One of my favorite parts of traveling is the amount of time I have to read now. These are my favorite books so far in 2018. I hope you have time for some good reads this summer.

The White Tiger – Aravind Adiga

The White Tiger is an amazing example of the power of the written word. A story about an Indian servant, Balram. He wants a better life than that of being a servant. His desire consumes him and drives him to do the unspeakable in order to climb out of his station in life. The story is told through a series of letters depicting the seven nights which lead him to be a success. Powerful, suspenseful and enthralling I couldn’t stop reading this book.

The Book Of Joy- Dalai Lama & Desmond Tutu

The relationship between The Dalai Lama and Desmond Tutu is not only beautiful it is inspiring. A week long visit is spent answering questions about the Seven Pillars of Joy. From their own religious perspective the two men share their wisdom, their humor and love with readers. It is a beautiful lesson on how to be our best selves, full of compassion, love and acceptance. I loved the beauty of the relationship with each other and the world. It is life changing.

Vaclav & Lena – Haley Tanner

Haley Tanner weaves a beautiful story of two childhood friends with a complicated and beautiful relationship. The words of this story unfold in a unique and captivating way. I quickly fell in love with Vaclav & Lena. Their journey as immigrants and adolescents developing an everlasting relationship is a perfect story of the struggle of childhood. I have been obsessed with the refreshing, unique and creative way Haley Tanner tells this story.

The Association of Small Bombs – Karan Mahajan

It took me a bit to get into this book but the story unfolds in such an incredible way it is impossible to not become involved in the complication of life in India facing the temptation and devastation of terrorism. The twists of the story are heart wrenching and thought provoking. I finished this book as a different person than the one who started it. The intensity of the characters and their actions pull the reader in and won’t let go until the story is finished.

Born A Crime – Trevor Noah

Okay, I am obsessed with Trevor Noah. This book is what pushed me to that point. Brilliantly he tells the story of his childhood. More importantly he uses his humor to expose the truth of life in poverty, growing up during Apartheid Africa and the struggles of making it out of a life designed to trap you. Honestly this book explained the culture of impoverished Apartheid Africa in a way I had never been able to verbalize. It is funny, honest and beautiful.

Fierce Kingdom-Gin Phillips

Immediately Gin Phillips pulls you into this story with the unthinkable tale of a mother trying to protect her son from mass shooters in a zoo. For me it was impossible to put this book down as I struggled with the characters to survive. Gin Phillips creates realistic characters who could easily be you or your friend fighting for the survival of their child and their own life. The story is unique and well written with a powerful female character driven by maternal instinct, making unimaginable choices.

I love buying my books from Better World Books. They donate books for every book purchased. So far they have donated over 24 million books, recycled or reused over 304 million books, and raised over 27 million dollars for literacy and libraries. They sell used and new books, rare books and textbooks and ship most books for free or 99 cents!

Since our lives are spent traveling it gets heavy to carry books around. So, as much as I hate reading electronically I do upload books from the Overdrive or Libby apps from the library to my phone to keep my luggage weight down.

What are you reading this summer? Leave me a comment with your favorite books this year.

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Blagaj Tekija-The Monastery In The Mountains

Once I saw a picture of the Blagaj Tekija Dervish monastery outside of Mostar I had to see it in person. The beauty of this 600 year old monastery, tucked away in a mountain with a river flowing through it captivated me.

We chose to take a taxi instead of trying to work our car out of the tiny parking lot at our hotel in Mostar. A short and inexpensive drive and we were there. At first J. was apprehensive because there were a few souvenir huts right at the opening of the walk to the monastery. Luckily, there are only a few shops and then we were left to take in the gorgeous Buna river with its rushing water and charming bridges.

I couldn’t get over the feeling we had left the rest of the world behind. Mountains surround the area removing all reminders of life outside of this little space. It was immediately obvious why 600 years ago men decided to build a monastery here.

The river flows fast and furious at Blagaj Tekija. The sound of it rolling over rocks and drops in the riverbed engulfs you as you walk closer to monastery. There are no sounds from the five or six restaurants on the riverbank. It is only water moving through a mountain and down the wide riverbed. It was so beautiful I wanted to stay all day just to feel the cool air coming off of the water and listen to the rush of the water over the moss covered rocks.

Along the way a woman was making fresh pomegranate juice. I heard how delicious it was, and have never had fresh pomegranate juice so we stopped and she made some for us. It was AMAZING. Seriously it was delicious. J. had a stomach ache that day and felt better immediately after drinking it. So, don’t skip the fresh pomegranate juice whenever you can get it.

Blagaj Tekija

I have to admit that touring inside the monastery was a bit disappointing. It is made up of several prayer rooms, bedrooms and a bathroom. The rooms are simple and quite small. For us the beauty was definitely outside. The monastery is a humble place and I did appreciate that. It was peaceful and small, making sure to not take away from its natural environment. The Dervish Muslims take a vow of poverty and austerity. They have created a beautiful place in the world, that despite some damage and reconstruction over the years still pays homage to their beliefs and way of life.

If you decide to walk through the rooms make sure you are respectful of the Muslim culture and cover your shoulders and legs. They will offer you a head scarf when you are there if you are a woman.

After visiting the monastery we took our time outside walking across the small bridges and basking in the sunlight. We eventually made our way to a cafe with seating along the rivers edge. Sipping Turkish coffee and watching the river was an absolutely perfect finish to the afternoon.

When in Mostar I think seeing Blagaj Tekija is a must. The taxi fare is cheap if you don’t want to take the bus or drive. If you do take a taxi either have them wait or have someone in the restaurants call one for you, otherwise you could be waiting for one for quite awhile.

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An Emotional Tour Through Mostar

I can’t think of a place I have visited whose architecture has affected me as much as Mostar in Bosnia-Hercegovina. The recent history of the countries battles are worn on the buildings as if they open wounds waiting for attention so they can heal. The juxtaposition to all of this is the quaint and perfect village of Mostar.

My travel friend from KatandDogTravels recommended we spend some time in Mostar after our month in Croatia. I hadn’t ever thought of going to Bosnia-Hercegovina but the pictures looked to good to pass up.

We decided to drive from Plitvice Lakes to Mostar. Working out the schedules to take buses or drivers across the border was going to take too much time so when we rented our car we made sure to get the green card necessary to take it into Bosnia-Hercegovina.  As with all drives through Croatia the scenery was stunning. We listened to podcasts and took in the beautiful mountains of Croatia.

Crossing the border into Bosnia-Hercegovina couldn’t have been easier. It was a quick check of paperwork and off we went. Admittedly once we crossed over we felt a little trepidation. The only thing we have ever really known of Bosnia is war. This hung over us as we acclimated to the new country. We had been told that the people were very nice and it was very safe yet as we drove through some of the towns the underdevelopment fed our trepidation a little, being honest here. I am never proud to admit when I allow my lack of knowledge or limited exposure influence me.

Arriving in Mostar is an absolute treat. The stone village is tucked in the mountains with a vibrant river running through it, splitting it in two.  The brown, grey and black stone buildings and streets are so perfect it feels like you have stepped onto the scene of a movie. They have been so well preserved for hundreds of years.  It is a bustling village, surviving on tourism.  Women hang lacey linens from the sides of the stone bridges showing them off to passers by in hopes of making a sale.

It seemed impossible to us to drive a car on the tiny roads so the owners of the tiny hotel we were staying in volunteered to come to the main road and park the car for us. Watching him maneuver our little rental car through streets barely wide enough to pass was entertainment in itself.

I was so excited to get out and see Old Town Mostar that I drug J. out with the enticement of a delicious lunch. We were not disappointed. The food in Mostar is really good. They serve a lot of seafood, pizza, mushroom dishes and meats. Most of the restaurants have river views. They are in quaint stone buildings oozing romance and relaxation. Everything in Mostar moves slowly, there is no need for a fast paced life here.

There are two main roads in Mostar, one on either side of the incredible bridges. The streets are lined with tourist shops, which are set up more like an Arabian bazaar. There are also cafes, restaurants and gelato shops in between the tourist shops. Yet somehow it doesn’t feel overwhelming. The town is so small it can easily be walked in an hour or less. This adds to the intimate and romantic feeling of the town.

Mostar is famous for the Stari Most Bridge. It is a reconstructed bridge, due to the bombings of the war, originally built in the 1600’s. I loved sitting by the river, below the bridge and watching as men jump from the top. Sitting amongst the moss covered rocks and the vibrant blue-green waters with the bridge overhead, was one of my favorite things to do in Mostar. It is dramatic not only because of its amazing architecture but also because of the reconstruction, which had to be done after the war where it was almost completely destroyed. Walking over the Star Most is not easy if you do not have rubber-bottomed shoes. I, like many of the tourists, clung to the side of the bridge, and used the raised road dividers to make it across the steep slopes.

The Stari Most is the most famous bridge in Mostar my favorite was the Crooked Bridge (Kriva Cuprija). It is a smaller version of the Stari Most, built as a test run for the larger Stari Most. It was destroyed in December 2000 by flooding but rebuilt in 2001 exactly as it had been for over 400 years. The Crooked Bridge is tucked away where the water forms small waterfalls rushing into the main part of the city. There are mossy rocks, mossy tree branches and flowers surrounding it, all adding the sweet atmosphere of this precious bridge.

Due to my complete ignorance I was surprised to see several mosques in the town and further out in the more modern city. The call to prayer was quite beautiful as it reverberated through the surrounding mountains. We toured the oldest mosque in Mostar, Koski Medmeh Pasa Mosque, which was a special treat as most mosques are not open to non-Muslims. It was a simple building with gorgeous painted details inside and a killer climb to the top of the minaret. This climb is an exercise in determination. It is a steep climb up a very narrow minaret. If you are at all claustrophobic I might consider skipping this bit. However, if you can muster through the reward is the breathtaking 360-degree views of the city. Luckily we had started early and had the mosque and the minaret to ourselves. I would definitely recommend this as the 400 year old mosque can get a bit crowded later in the day as the tour buses arrive.

On our last day in Mostar we walked through parts of the more modern area of town. While we had seen a few bullet holes in buildings in the old town the more modern area shocked us. Buildings were still sitting with massive holes where bombs had ripped through them. Many of the buildings reduced to rubble as bullet holes claimed the exteriors leaving them looking a bit like Swiss cheese. It was such an intense experience to realize this war happened so recently in our history. As we stood in front of buildings the sorrow and pain the people suffered could not be ignored. While I have seen many sights in the world where horrific things happened this was more intense for me because I was alive when all of this happened. It could so easily have been my father fighting, or my family killed if we lived there. In America we have been so removed from wars on our own soil that to be face to face with something so recent was not only foreign but shocking.

The most overwhelming part of the experience though was how quickly the people had begun to heal and forgive. It is a true testimony to the resiliency of the nation and the kindness of the Bosnians.

Tip:

Don’t be afraid to stop and eat or get coffee in the gas stations along the highway in Croatia. The food is usually quite good and the coffee is great. We even stopped at one station where we were served at tables set with dishes, glassware and flowers.

Where To Stay:

We loved our hotel-Pansion Cardak. The location was fantastic, the rooms were very big and the beds super comfy! The owners were so kind and helpful, recommending places to eat, things to see, arranging taxis etc. I wouldn’t stay anywhere else in Mostar.

Where To Eat:

Hindin Han had great meat dishes and a grilled mushroom dish I loved so much we went back for it the next day.

Divan Restaurant has the most beautiful spot right along the river with views of the Crooked Bridge. The pizza is fantastic here. Sit outside along the river for a wonderful experience you can’t have anywhere else in the world.

How To Get There:

It is easy to drive to Mostar from Croatia if you want to go on your own. Just make sure to get a green card to take the car over the border. There are also tons of day trip tours to Mostar from Split and Dubrovnik if you prefer. You can hire a personal driver from the Dubrovnik airport, or take public buses if you want to stay longer than a day, which I would recommend.

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A Must See Journey To The Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice Lakes is located about two hours outside of Zagreb. When we spoke to anyone in Croatia they asked us if we had visited Plitvice Lakes. When we said we had not they told us we couldn’t leave without seeing it. Then a friend texted me and told me we really needed to see Plitvice Lakes. So, on our way to Bosnia we decided to take two days to stop at the National Park.

I had no idea the astounding beauty we were about to experience as we drove from Zagreb to Grabovac to check into our hotel. As with all of Croatia the scenery was beautiful. We passed quaint little towns, and gorgeous hills as we made our way along the windy road. The towns began to fade away and soon it was just beautiful rolling hills with tiny hamlets scattered around. The sun was shining, welcoming us to the countryside of Croatia.

Grabovac is about twenty minutes drive from Plitvice Lakes. The perfect location to unwind in the peaceful countryside before starting our visit to Plitvice Lakes the next morning. We sat outside on the balcony and took in the gorgeous scenery planning our trip before heading out to enjoy some delicious pizza at a local restaurant.

The next morning we were up early to get a head start as recommended. The goal was to beat the tourist buses which generally arrive around 9:30 or 10:00. We were staying at the Zrinka house. This wonderful B&B offered us a nice breakfast to start our day. When the owner and her daughter heard we were going to Plitvice they insisted we pack a lunch and waters. It would prove to be a very good decision.

We arrived at Plitvice just before the buses. Along the way we had spotted a few beautiful waterfalls but had no idea they were not the highlight of the area. In fact, the 90 waterfalls of Plitvice Lake would steal the show of anything we had seen in Croatia so far. There are 16 lakes in the National Park and tons of walking trails. As we headed out we decided to take the path recommended which started at the lowest point of the park.

Before descending down to the first of the lakes and waterfalls there is a lookout point where one of the biggest series of five waterfalls flow into a smaller series. As luck would have it we were welcomed with rainbows reflecting through the gorgeous falls. It was surely a sign of the amazing experience we were about to have.

Making our way down the path the walkways across the lakes become visible, they appear to float over the turquoise waters. These walkways are pretty narrow and can be quite crowded so it is important to be patient and cautious. After we round our way around we ended up in the spray of waterfalls while looking over the cliff at others. It was incredible to stand in-between the massive waterfalls, feeling the spray on my face and hearing the beautiful sounds the water make as it cascades over the cliffs.

From here we trekked on making our way up. We passed more lakes, small creeks passing rapidly over mossy rocks. and more waterfalls. Green leaves were beginning to blossom on the trees, filling in the stark winter landscape.

Eventually the pathway leads to the ferry boat area. We stopped here to eat our packed lunch before we hopped on the boat across the largest lake. The line can get pretty long luckily for us there was a group in front of playing music to help us all pass the time.  The ride across the lake was beautiful, although the boat was packed with people.

As we reached the destination an amazing group of waterfalls appeared. While they were not the biggest the turquoise flowing waters were absolutely breathtaking. This was our favorite part of the park. There was a quiet here that didn’t exist in the rest of the park. The area was so perfect with the moss covered rocks and bridges, the fallen branches which laid perfectly across the water, and the small streams which gently flowed from the falls into the lakes. We waited out the boat crowds in order to have the space almost completely to ourselves.

While many people just make the short trek around these waterfalls and get back on the boat to head back to the exit we decided to continue the trek. Along the quiet lake paths we found beautiful trees, flowers and rock formations. Then, more incredible waterfalls, and views. Plitvice Lakes just gives and gives and gives. Seriously, just when you think you have seen something more beautiful than you thought possible, there are more beautiful gifts from nature.

When we were done trekking the higher part of the park we hopped on a boat and then on a bus to get back to the exit. As tired as we were it was hard to leave this beautiful place so perfectly cared for by the Croats.

Tips:

Definitely go early in the morning to avoid the tour buses if you can.

The upper area of the park is usually not visited by the tour buses so while it is still busy it is much more relaxed than the lower part. So many people start at the top and then work their way down. The timing seems to work with the tour buses leaving to get back to whatever city they came from.

Wear comfy shoes, get ready to take pictures (I took over 200!), and be patient. There are places where you have to wait and it can be crowded but stay relaxed and it will be worth it.

The park is definitely kid friendly.

There are a few restaurants scattered around in case you don’t bring your own food or water.

Where To Stay:

We stayed at the Zrinka house. I am serious when I tell you that they are some of the kindest hosts we have ever had. They are gracious, thoughtful and accommodating. The house is lovely and the rooms are fantastic with beautiful bathrooms. We wanted to extend our trip a few days just so we could stay longer at Zrinka house.

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What To See In Budapest, Hungary

When we started our journey to Budapest I had no idea what was in store for us. The main question we had was what to see in Budapest. There is so much to take in that even in a week I was afraid we wouldn’t see it all. Fortunately it is easy to navigate on foot and what to see in Budapest is not only doable but also incredibly surprising.

This is my list of what to see in Budapest:

Castle Hill

The first thing we saw as our taxi drove us to our Airbnb was Castle Hill. It stands over Budapest as a constant reminder of the incredible glory of the city. The grandeur of the castle, the church, and the National Gallery were a complete shock.

We took the funicular up the hill and arrived at the incredible archways of the National Gallery which were once a Royal Palace. At first I felt completely overwhelmed. Everything was so impressive I couldn’t figure out what to focus on. The ornate statues, fountain, gates and massively of the building are all made even more impressive by the city views. As I stood in front of this building, a mere speck in its presence, I imagined how humbling it must have been to arrive at this Royal Palace years ago.

From the National Gallery we made our way towards the 700 year old Matthias church. The colorful tiles were even more impressive close up with the contrast of the Gothic architecture. The church gives way to the impressive Buda castle. We bought tickets to walk along the castles walls, to be honest it was not worth the money, and to take in the views. The beautiful white stone, impressive statues and turrets tell a story of the importance of Buda in Hungarian history. It is packed with tourists but the open spaces help to make it less overwhelming.

From the Buda castle we wandered the streets of Castle Hill checking out the architecture of other churches, homes and shops. We made a quick stop at the Houdini museum where we toured and took in a magic show. J. just can’t resist good magic.

St. Stephen’s Basilica

It is impossible to travel through Budapest without seeing St. Stephen’s Basilica. The largest church in Budapest outshines all of the modern buildings which surround it. As we approached it was easy to see why it took 50 years to build this massive and beautiful church. The dome of the church stands around 270 feet high, as tall as the awe inspiring Parliament building.  The inside of the church is marvelous with deep burgundy marble, gold accents and ornate painting throughout.

While we didn’t climb to the to the top it is possible to either take an elevator or climb the 357 steps up to the observation deck in the dome.

Walk Along The River Danube

J. and I loved walking along the river in Budapest. There is so much to discover amongst the amazing views. It is a long walk so we did it in 2 days so we had time to take in the various neighborhoods along the way.

One of the most moving things we saw in Budapest was the exhibit of shoes. They are representative of the thousands of Jews who were taken to the edge of the river, told to remove their shoes and then were shot in the head and left to float down the river. As I stood there I was overcome with sadness at what the Jewish community had to endure. Hungary began their anti-semitic laws as early as the 1920’s so the struggle was long and hard in Budapest.

Further down the river is the Parliament building. It is hard not to stand gaping at this monumental building. The incredibly intricate and detailed architecture is stunning. The size is almost overwhelming and the history is remarkable. There are two exhibits underground in front of the Parliament building. One is quite interesting as it shows how the first stone used to build the Parliament was sub-standard and began to erode almost immediately. Pieces from the original build are displayed underground, telling this incredible story.

The second exhibit is on the mass shooting in the square in front of the building. It happened in 1956. They were fighting against communism when tanks rolled into the square and murdered a lot of people. It is sad but a powerful reminder of what they have been through and what our world has been like in the past.

Around the Parliament building there are other gorgeous buildings including some embassy buildings. They are quite ornate, built in many different architectural styles from Gothic to Art Nouveau.

In this area there is another exhibit about anti-Semetic laws and treatment of the Jewish citizens. There are personal belongings, pictures and signs about the history of what happened. The monument, a large angel with an eagle flying overhead is quite beautiful but the story is in what is worth seeing. I strongly believe we must face and know our past in order to prevent repeating it in the future.

Walking in any direction along the Danube. It is also here where you can catch cruise boats taking you up and down the river. We took an evening tour which was nice. It was fun to see the city from a different perspective. I would recommend taking the trip right at sunset to catch the incredible lights of the city.

The Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter was my favorite area in Budapest. It is both historic and progressive. The contrast was really fantastic. We visited the Jewish Synagogue, taking the tour to learn the history not only of the Synagogue but also the Jewish Quarter. The Synagogue was very beautiful but the stories were even more so. During the tour my heart was broken over the stories of how the Jewish citizens were forced to live around World War 2. The way they died and/or suffered were devastating. Yet seeing the way the community has come back and the way they are honored reminded me of the power of the human spirit. The beautiful silver tree is labeled on the leaves with names of those who have been lost and never found. It is a beautiful tribute.

Beyond the Synagogue are streets with unique shops, small restaurants, bars and cafes. It is lively and unique. A great way to spend a day is wandering around the Quarter, then stopping for lunch at one of my favorite places in the city. The food truck court of Karavan where you can enjoy some amazing street food, including delicious vegan food at Las Vegans. The eating area is a reclaimed piece of property from a demolished building and is so inviting with its bright colored lanterns and unique space.

Ruin bars are the popular places to be in the Jewish Quarter. They range in size and style but each is made up of recycled items in reclaimed spaces. I loved the unique atmosphere of the ruin bars as well as their ability to make such cool and quirky spaces by saving things from the landfills.

Fashion Street Market

I am not one for shopping. Yet we found ourselves on Fashion Street several times due to its location close to the river. While walking through the Fashion street area we stumbled upon a great little market area. Here stalls are set up selling local food, beer and handmade products. The tables are filled with locals and tourists all enjoying the atmosphere of freshly made food, singing and beer drinking. I loved it here. It felt like a place where the community gathered outside, amidst the grandeur of Budapest to enjoy this beautiful city.

Where We Stayed:

We loved our Airbnb and the location it was in.

Favorite Ruin Bar:

Simpla Kertmozi

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