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So Many Great Things To Do In Zagreb, So Little Time

An amazing combination of architecture, parks, delicious food and great museums Zagreb, Croatia was so much more than we expected. We only stayed for two days which was a mistake with so many things to do in Zagreb it just wasn’t enough time.
We traveled by bus from Rovinj, which took about 5 hours. The scenery through Istria is mountainous, lush and full of small towns, a castle and great sea views. It was also really affordable and comfortable to make the trip by bus. Like everything in Croatia it was clean, convenient and efficient.

Directly in front of the main train station in Zagreb is King Tomislav square. As we reached the square all I could say was Wow! The gorgeous green grass, beautiful fountain surrounded by flowers, and white stone walkways are all flanked by benches around the square. Standing opposite of the train station is a massive yellow building with ornate Austria-Hungarian influence. Sitting atop the Art Pavilion building is a gorgeous glass atrium inviting all passer-by to stand inside and enjoy the incredible architecture.

Down the street is the stunning Zrinjevac park. Flanked with massive white trees all leading to beautiful gazebos, floral displays and fountains. Walking through it was like walking back in time when life was slower. The ornate gazebos were a perfect contrast to the elegant white trees shading the walkways. Including one with a indentation large enough to stand in. It was so shocking to find such a beautiful space surrounded by massive buildings decorated with angels, men holding up columns and stunning windows.

Walking further up the street we walked right into the BAN JELAČIĆ Square. This is the central square of Zagreb. A large statue of Ban (or viceroy) Josip Jelačić towers over the lively square. Crossing the street through the maze of trains, buses, cars and pedestrians lands you in the midst of Zagreb. Immediately I felt the vibration of the city. There is a street market selling food, souvenirs and hand-made products. The wooden stalls tempted us with their amazing honey, cheeses, pastries and sweet treats. Surrounding the square are restaurants where we sat outside, enjoying the amazing Croatian coffee and watching the Croats move about their daily lives.

Croatia is one of the safest countries in the world. For some reason as we walked through the town on our first night we could feel that safety. Everyone is so relaxed, laughing and comfortable. Immediately the feeling is contagious. Unlike most big cities we visit we never felt we had to be concerned about where we ended up while we were wandering around at night. So, we aimlessly wandered the streets and ended up in the Old Town section of Zagreb. The old streets are lined with shops, bars, cafes and restaurants.

The busiest street is Ul.Ivana Tkalciceva. It is packed with restaurants, cafes and bars each with their own unique decor and atmosphere. Just like Paris the locals sat in tables lining the streets, sipping cocktails, laughing and people watching. J. and I were dying for Indian food so we were overjoyed when we found an incredible Indian restaurant right in the middle of the lively street.

Upper Town

Our second day in Zagreb we headed out to see Upper Town, and the Zagreb Cathedral. The cathedral is the tallest building in Croatia. It towers over the city, linked to old stone walls and tiny village houses. The gothic style of the building is the most monumental example southeast of the Swiss Alps. Knowing this still didn’t prepare us for how beautiful it was. Opened in 1906 it has maintained its beautiful style, and gothic features well. We followed a group of monks inside to take in the beautiful interior, admiring the statues and artwork before we moved on.

Like most cities in Croatia Zagreb has a beautiful green market where locals sell produce, meats, cheeses and locally made products. We stumbled on it by accident while trying to find a building with a roof I wanted desperately to get close to. The vibrant colors of the produce and the lively atmosphere drew us into the Dolac Market. I loved wandering the stalls dreaming of all of the incredible dishes I could make with the produce.

After the Green Market we made our way to Upper Town. Unfortunately we had walked down from Upper Town to take the funicular (J. loves funiculars and cable cars). Sadly it was not functioning so we climbed the many steps to the top. Once there I felt we had been whisked back in time. This perfectly preserved neighborhood is an absolute treat. There is the famed Museum of Broken Relationships (not my favorite), along with St. Mark’s square and church. The homes range in style from little stone houses to more regal Italianesque homes.

For me nothing in this section of Upper Town could compare to St. Mark’s church. The incredible tile roof, with its colorful design, was stunning. It was my first time experiencing architecture like this and I couldn’t get enough! Slowly I made my way around the building checking out each detail and marveling in the workmanship. It is no wonder it is the focal point of the neighborhood and absolutely should not be missed.

We spent the rest of the day wandering up and down the streets of Zagreb taking in the beautiful buildings, more delicious coffee, and watching the lovely Croats as they moved through their daily lives.

Unfortunately we missed the seven other amazing parks, and the incredible old cemetery, since we only had two days. I guess we will just have to make our way back to Zagreb for more great food, culture and fun.

Where to Eat:

Royal India restaurant-Ul. Ivana Tkalciceva, 26

El Greco Greek Restaurant-Ul. Ivana Tkalciceva, 30

Where to Stay:

The Esplanade Zagreb is a beautiful hotel and a great value for the luxury! We loved our stay here, but would have to honestly say I wouldn’t eat there. The service wasn’t great and the food was very overpriced compared to what we could get elsewhere in the city.

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Advice For Taking Great Photos From Erika M.

One of the jobs which most intimidates me in life is a wedding photographer. The pressure of capturing the perfect moments and images from this one day would be too much for me. Maybe this is why I have so much admiration for the wedding photographers who do it so well. A good wedding photographer can teach the rest of us a lot about photography in general. They must have the right lighting, the right backdrop and a sense of the dynamic between subjects in order to capture the moment perfectly. Bearing this in mind I asked to interview one of my favorite wedding photographers (I love all of her people photography!) to get her advice and hear more of her story.

Erika Mattingly always amazes me with the way she can perfectly capture the chemistry between a couple. She uses the perfect lighting and settings to tell a story with her images. They are inspirational to me and a delight to look at. She is also an all around amazing person with the most adorable little baby! Luckily she found time in her crazy schedule of being a mom and a wedding photographer to share her story and advice with me.

Here is our interview:

Me: What is your favorite thing about being a photographer?

Erika: My favorite part of being a wedding photographer is that I get to capture such a special season of life for my couples. This is such a joyous time for couples, and I am so thankful that I have the unique honor and privilege to capture two people in love and excited for their life together.

Me: How did you get involved with wedding photography?

Erika: I don’t have one of those stories in which I grew up around cameras and this seemed like the obvious career path for me. Before I starting getting into photography, I admired the craft for a while. It wasn’t until my husband (Brandon) asked me one day: “If you could pursue any passion in your life, what would it be?” I then said “photography.” Within a week we bought a camera and I instantly grew attached.

Me: Your pictures really convey the emotion of the couples. What advice can you give about how to capture moments through photography?

Erika: You really need to try to get a read on each couple because not every couple is going to give you the same vibe. For instance, some couples can be very fun and happy while together, and then some couples can be deep and romantic together. Within the first few shots, I see how the couple is with each other and then I give direction based on what vibe they give. Rather than going into a shoot being set in how you want it to turn out, try to have an open mind to your shoots direction based on what the people give you.

Me: What is your advice for gauging the right lighting?

Erika: I typically try to plan for shoots during “golden hour.” This is the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. During this time you get really creamy-golden light that looks gorgeous in photos! Try to avoid shooting midday because this light tends to be very harsh and contrasting. If you can’t avoid midday light, try to shoot in shadows during this time to give yourself more even lighting.

Me: What software do you recommend for image editing?

Erika: I use Lightroom!

Me: A lot of my readers are travel photographers. What advice would you have for capturing landscapes and moments when traveling? Your images are so powerful not just because of the people but also because of the surroundings.

Erika: Again, I’d say golden hour lighting would give you some gorgeous landscape shots. Also, for my style of photography, I try to keep backgrounds more minimal. So I look for surroundings that are clean and I lean more towards natural settings. If you are in a spot with more of a busy background, have your subject take a few steps forward from the wall/background so that there is more contrast between that person and the surroundings.

Me: How many hours do you think you spend editing?

Erika: I haven’t calculated this exactly, but I’d guess that one wedding takes me about 30 hours to edit from start to finish. An engagement session would probably take me about 4 hours to edit.

Me: What camera and lenses do you use?

Erika: I shoot on Canon Mark IIIs. I have Canon prime lens (35mm, 50mm, and 85mm).

Me: You always hold true to your style and are still able to capture the personalities of the people you photograph. What advice would you give a photographer about staying true to their style and not giving in to what they see other photographers doing who may be more popular on social media?

Erika: I think the key to having a consistent style is knowing what editing preset you like and sticking to that with all your projects. I have one preset that I start all my images with. I then make tweaks to that image if needed, but I never make drastic changes to that preset. Having consistency in your edits is key. I also try to keep consistency in my direction to couples. I certainly try out new poses and directions at shoots, but I make sure I capture those key shots too before trying out new things.

Me: If you could photograph anyone or any place who or where would it be? Why?

Erika: My husband got me hooked on Lord of the Rings, so I would love to capture a couple in New Zealand. It looks like such a beautiful country!

Me: Do you think someone who is trying to improve their photography needs to invest in a DSLR camera or is the iPhone just as capable of quality images?

Erika: It depends on what type of photography you are looking to do. If you’re interested in improving your personal photos, I certainly think that with the latest iPhones you can take great photos. There are also many apps that can help with the editing of your images (I’d recommend VSCO for editing photos!). However, if you’re interested in becoming a professional I would recommend investing in a DSLR. BUT! You do not need to always get the next latest and greatest camera to succeed. There are plenty of great cameras out there that are not terribly expensive (my first camera was a Canon 6D and I’d highly reccomend it!).

Me: I see so many people over-editing photos now where the colors aren’t real (like pink skies etc). Do you think this is just a trend or is it here to stay?

Erika: I think this is definitely more of a trend. I think images with more natural, real looking colors are what is going to last.

For inspiration you can check out Erika’s work on her website

Instagram

Facebook

She loves to travel for weddings and engagement photos too if you are interested.

3 Most Popular Day Trips From Rovinj

The Istria region was so much more than J. and I had expected. We couldn’t wait to get out and explore more than just Rovinj. We put together some ideas for Rovinj day trips. Then, thanks to the kindness and openness of the Croatian people we refined our list of Rovinj day trips to reflect what towns they thought were the best. One of our Rovinj day trips was to hillside towns which you can read about here. Our other choices were split into three different day trips.

Pula

Our first Rovinj day trip was to the town of Pula. We opted to take a local bus from Rovinj which took about 40 minutes. A 10 minute walk from the bus station and there it was, the ancient Arena Pula is famous for.

The Pula Arena is the sixth largest in the world. The exterior is almost completely intact which is what makes it such a dramatic sight. Inside the arena has not faired quite as well. It is still worth walking around to see the ruins and get a sense of what it was before. Under the arena there is a museum area where you can see where the gladiators and animals were kept before the events.

From the Arena we made our way, on the cold and rainy day, to the square where the Temple of Augustus is located. We enjoyed a coffee in a quaint little coffee shop while taking in the temple built for Augustus around 2 BC. The temple has been repaired after damage from wars. Objects found over the years at the sight have been put inside the building as a small architectural museum.

Although it was small we found to be very interesting. It is always amazing to see the bronze’s they could make thousands of years ago, and the pottery, statuary and building reliefs. No matter how much of it we see I am always in awe.

I have to be honest Pula wasn’t our favorite town. I found it to be a little run down. I want to be open that maybe it was because it was a rainy Sunday in the off season so it is possible everything changes once they get ready for tourists.

Pula has several other historic sights, they also have the most shopping in the region, and an olive oil museum if you want to spend a longer day there checking out the town.

VRSAR

This enchanting little town is perched on top a high hill about 30 minutes drive north of Rovinj. The drive takes you past the Lim Fjord, the Istria fjord which runs off of the ocean, surrounded by scenic hills. Along the road there are many restaurants and locals selling their honey and other locally made products.

When we reached Vrsar we chose to park outside of the city, in the first parking lot we saw. There is other parking in town but we really wanted to walk the town to see all of the old stone homes. Vrsar is definitely the steepest of the hill towns we visited in Istria. Climbing the hills and the going down the old cobblestone steps to reach the shore is a great workout.

Walking along the white stone walkways of the marina leads to a lush forest area on one side and beautiful stone areas for lounging by the sea. We walked around the entire park area taking in the beautiful sea views. As we rounded the final turn of the circle we were rewarded with a view of the entire town on the hill. Seeing the stone buildings and church all stacked together rising up along the hillside is breathtaking.

During our visit everything was very quiet since it was still off season. I loved this, despite the drizzly rain, because it felt like the town belonged to us. I imagine in the summer the beautiful sea areas are filled with people swimming in the crystal clear waters and lounging on the smooth white stones.

Porec

After a few hours in Vrsar we drove to Porec. As with all of Croatia it was so easy to get there due to excellent signs and good roads. We parked along the sea to start exploring.

Porec feels more Italian than any other place we have visited in the Istria region. Italy’s border is so close that most people in Porec also speak Italian. The influence of Italian architecture and town layout was immediately evident with larger piazza’s, Venetian style windows and main streets packed with all kinds of shopping. Even though it was off season Porec was busy with locals and tourists wandering the streets, drinking coffees in the cafe’s and eating delicious Italian inspired meals.

Wandering the streets was such a treat. The stone buildings were more ornate in Porec than in Vrsar. Little nooks between houses showcase gardens, massive wisteria vines and inviting sitting areas. We wound our way through the town to the main tourist attraction, the Bishop Euphrasius’ Cathedral. J. and I spent the next few hours completely awe struck by this cathedral.

In the 3rd century a church complex was built in Porec’s forum. In the 4th century it became an actual public church. Then in the mid-6th century the Bishop Euphrasius gave the complex an overhaul. He adorned it with intricate and stunning mosaics. In the walls, doorways, and flooring there are intricate details so important to history the complex has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

From the outside it is easy to underestimate the treasure this church is. Once we entered the beautiful mosaic on the front of the chapel comes into view. There is no mistaking the incredible gift Bishop Euphrasius left civilization.

In large part the church complex has survived as it was. Original mosaics can be viewed throughout on walls and floors. While many of the incredible details are still in place some are on display to view up close. The Bishops Room is absolutely breathtaking with his seat in a large round windowed platform. Here he would greet guests and have meetings. Breathtaking! We climbed to the top of the bell tower to take in the beautiful sea views. From there we made our way the cathedral itself where the golden mosaics and intricate wood ceiling show off the incredible talent of the workmen who created the space.

The cathedral and complex were definitely a highlight on our Istria day trips. We loved spending the afternoon in Porec. I think it would be a terrible shame to miss this gorgeous town and incredible cathedral if you are in the Istria region.

4 Beautiful Hillside Towns In Istria

I think most people don’t realize the Istria countryside is very similar to Tuscany. There are rolling green hills with beautiful medieval cities throughout the Istria countryside. They stand majestically in stark contrast to the lush green valleys which surround them.

Upon stepping into one of the towns in the Istria countryside it is easy to forget there is a world outside. I am not sure if this is by design or simply a wish.

When staying in Rovinj, Croatia it is easy to get to the countryside and visit these gorgeous towns. We rented a car and spent an incredible day visiting four of the cities in the countryside. Each one captured my heart for a different reason, and all of them left me wanting to visit again and again.

Along with the Tuscan countryside there isn’t more picturesque places to drink a glass of wine or coffee.

Motovun:

Motovun was our first stop. It is about an hour drive from Rovinj along the back roads. I chose the back roads in order to see the local towns and villages. Although I had seen pictures of Motovun I was still surprised at how beautiful the walled city was perched on top of the hill in the distance.

Even though it was off season we still chose to park our car in the lot at the bottom of the hill and take the shuttle up the hill to the town. The medieval stone buildings and cobblestone streets are still original.

The buildings now house some of the 530 residents, wine stores, restaurants, bars (a.k.a coffee shops), souvenir shops and truffle stores. Motovun is famous for its white and black truffles.

Motovun is circular so it is easy to make your way through the town by following the winding road up through the gates and into the large square. The problem with this is the desire to stop every 30 seconds and gawk at the incredible views of the Istria countryside.

There are beautiful restaurants to have coffee or eat where you can gaze across the country sprinkled with churches, homes, and other hillside villages.

After touring the town, which doesn’t take more than an hour, we walked down the hill to our car to head over to the next town. It is a lovely walk around the hill, oggling over the surrounding houses, and the views up at the village of Motovun.

Oprtalj:

Driving from Motovun to Oprtalj is an easy trip. There are signs along the road leading you through the Istria countryside and up the hill to Oprtalj. The drive is beautiful up the mountain through switchback roads, with hilltop views and roads lined with Cyprus’.

When we arrived in Oprtalj we parked in the little parking lot outside of the village and walked two or three minutes into the town.

Walking through town there is a sense of a village neglected by time. Much of the village is in ruins, but they are beautiful old stone ruins.

There are a few cute shops and a beautiful wine and truffle store. It took us about twenty minutes to walk through the town and admire the views on the other side of the valley. Along the way there are beautiful stone homes, and quaint hotels. J. and I found ourselves wishing we could buy a ruin and refurbish it to the quality of the ones we saw.

At this point in our day we were starving. One of the shop owners referred us to one of the two open restaurants for lunch.

As we walked out of the stone arch guarding the village we were immediately charmed by the Restoran Loggia perched on the edge of the hill. Dining tables were covered with lush green vines, the wood tables were packed with Italian tourists all laughing, drinking wine and basking in the sun.

Restoran Loggia proudly serves local meats, veggies and other foods all from the Istria countryside. The food was delicious, the wine amazing but the incredible view and relaxed atmosphere were perfection. We sat and drank wine at our little table soaking in the green hills, the huge cypress trees, the flowers and the adorable village.

While Oprtalj was a tiny village it is worth the trip just to spend a few hours eating, relaxing and basking in the Croatia culture.

Groznjan

Next on our day trip through the Istria countryside was Groznjan. Again, it was very easy to drive there due to great road signs along the way. J. and I unknowingly took the more challenging road up the town via a gravel windy road. As we reached the town, there were vendors selling goods along the entrances to the town alongside a beautiful coffee shop overlooking the path we had just driven. We parked in a small parking lot and walked back towards the town.

Immediately we knew there was something very special about Groznjan. Even in the off season it was full of life. The stone buildings were all immaculately kept. Instead of being filled with olive oil shops and truffle shops there were art galleries and an abundance of locally made goods. Walking through the stone streets you could feel the creativity of its inhabitants.

In desperate need of an afternoon coffee we chose a cafe with tables overlooking the whole valley. The Italian tourists were enjoying afternoon wine and coffees and filling the place with laughter. Although we had spent the first half of the day taking in the views there was something special about the vastness lying below us that relaxed us completely. After we had sat for quite a while just taking in the ambiance and the view it was time to tour the town.

This was an absolute treat. The immaculate city didn’t disappoint with ivy covered homes, wisteria climbing over porches, and fantastic art. The city was declared an artists city by the government many years ago. The locals have clearly embraced it. Groznjan is about as picture perfect as it gets. There are cats lounging on porches, shop owners having coffee at small tables in front of their shops and a sweet church rising above it all.

Momjan

Momjan was our last stop on our Istria countryside tour.I have to admit it was our least favorite town, but then it would be pretty hard to follow the other three. What really struck us about Momjan though was the incredible view of the sea and the countryside.

Momjan boasts 13th century castle ruins and a lovely 15th century church worth checking out. The town is really small so plan about an hour at most to explore.

After driving through the town and checking out the ruins we drove up to a church perched over the town. It is a sweet little church that offers some unbelievable views. It is so peaceful at the top of the hill away from the city and surrounded by flowers and green grass we just sat for a while and enjoyed the spring air.

From Momjan it is an easy trip back to the road to drive back to Rovinj, Porac or Vrsar.

The day we spent in the Istria countryside was one of the best we have spent in Croatia. The people are wonderful, the views outstanding and the experiences we will remember forever.

To find out more about Rovinj and other places to visit close to Istria click these links.

The Beautiful Seaside Town of Rovinj Croatia

Rovinj, Croatia is one of those towns where a mere glimpse is enough to convince you to stay forever.

Rocky cliffs protect the medieval town from changing what it has been for hundreds of years. Stone buildings stack next to each other on the cobblestone streets creating a maze of beautiful nooks and alleys begging to be explored.

Rovinj is full of romance and character. Restaurants line the sea, suspended on rocky cliffs or tucked into small nooks. From the moment we stepped into Rovinj (no cars allowed in the old town) we felt the kindness and generosity of the locals.

After a very intense drive along a detour through the snowy mountains, which added hours to our drive, we were ready to drop off the rental car and walk. Of course we had to create a little drama by accidentally blocking the only road around the city. The police were behind us when we tried to drive into the town not realizing it wasn’t permitted. As is typical of Croatians, everyone kindly and patiently waited for us to sort out how to turn around and get situated.

In the low season (October-April) Rovinj is a quiet town. Most restaurants and shops are closed. Luckily in March things had begun to slowly open. We were lucky enough to have plenty of restaurant choices.

Even though it was cool most days we were able to sit by the sea and enjoy the delicious Mediterranean cuisine. (J. a little more than me since I don’t eat fish or meat). On the cooler days blankets are provided to customers helping the gorgeous Istrian sun keep me warm.

During the high season Rovinj has many activities to keep busy. The boats which fill the bay ferry tourists to local towns, the nearby fjord, dolphin watching sunset cruises and trips to the small island in the middle of the bay. As we found in the rest of Croatia there are immaculately maintained areas along the sea perfect for swimming, picnicking or just sitting and enjoying the views.

We spent many of our days walking through the streets, climbing the small hill to the chruch at the epicenter of Rovinj, and then resting on park benches watching the gentle waves hit the rocky shore. Immediately we were transformed to the slow and peaceful lifestyle of the locals.

Being in Rovinj for two weeks we had the opportunity to become familiar to the locals. They even remembered our favorite coffee drinks, pizzas. They even gladly shared their local after dinner liqueurs with us.

Even though there are no vehicles allowed in the old town it is easy to take day trips by land from Rovinj.

The bus station, located just outside of the old town, is busy all year round offering trips to all the local towns in the Istria region. Many days we hopped on the bus or rented a car for the day to travel through the region. We were never disappointed by the incredible beauty of the countryside, the other seaside towns or the history throughout Istria.

As beautiful as Rovinj is the most impactful part of our trip was the incredible kindness and generosity of the locals.

On our first night we arrived late due to the weather and didn’t know where to eat. J. asked a waiter, in what would become our favorite coffee spot, for a recommendation. Instead of pointing the way he grabbed his jacket and walked us over to a restaurant to make sure we found it and were well taken care of.

That same waiter, after serving us countless coffee and evening drinks while we played cards in the bar, spotted us leaving at the bus station when it was time to depart. He walked over to make a point to bid us safe travels and wish us well. I was so surprised.

My favorite story was from the Meditereano Bar. I had been stalking this place for two weeks, walking by everyday to see if it was open. The pictures online had convinced me I had to have a coffee in this beautiful bar.

During high season cushions and small, colorful tables are places on top of the rocky cliffs along the sea. It seemed to me to be one of the most perfect places in the world to have a drink. On our second to last day I saw the bar was still not open, so I contacted them on facebook to ask when they would open.

Disappointingly it would not be until two days after we departed. I shared my disappointment and my story of stalking them for two weeks. The owner then generously offered to make a coffee for me and set a place for me on the rocks, opening for half an hour just for me! Again I was so surprised!

Not only was it a great cup of coffee it truly was one of the most exceptional places in the world to have a drink. It is a memory I will treasure forever. So when you find yourself in Rovinj or Istria you MUST stop in, say hello and have a drink. You will never forget it.

This is not only Rovinj but all of Croatia. It is filled with the kindest people, incredible spaces and beautiful scenery. With its close proximity to Italy and Zagreb airport there is no good reason to miss a visit to Rovinj.

Where To Stay:

We stayed in this Airbnb while we were in Rovinj. If you want to stay in an Airbnb you can use this code and get $40 in credit.

Where To Eat:

For great local food in an adorable setting we loved La Vela. It is open all year and not touristy at all.

On the water we loved La Puntulina and Stella di Mare.

Where To Get Great Drinks & Pastries:

Mediterraneo has great drinks with amazing views and places to sit.

Mlinar makes an amazing spinach and cheese pastry and a very delicious chocolate pastry filled with Nutella and coconut (I am not a desert person but this is amazing!).

For great day trip ideas see my blog posts about 3 Day Trips From Rovinj and the towns of Istria.

Day Trips from Split Croatia: My 4 Favorites

There are so many options of day trips you can take from Split, Croatia. You can visit islands, caves, National Parks and neighboring towns. During March the day trips from Split are a bit limited due to weather conditions and lack of tourists. While this can be seen as a bad thing for us it was perfect. Our day trips were low stress, not fighting crowds or tour buses, cruise ships or large groups. It was primarily just us and locals wherever our day trips took us. (Read more about our time in Split.)

Not having the option of most of the islands or any of the caves we narrowed our day trips in Split to these five places:

Trogir

Trogir is a small town on the sea just north of Split. For one of our day trips we took a direct bus from the main bus station which delivered us to Split in about 30 minutes. The journey there isn’t very beautiful, a lot of traffic, malls and industry however I think the industrial areas make the arrival in Trogir even more dramatic. As the bus pulled into the station the small town of Trogir starts to reveal its ancient beauty.

Mountains and water wrap around Trogir providing a breathtaking backdrop. I couldn’t wait to walk across the small bridge and explore the ancient stone city. As we walked over the bridge towards the main gate I kept telling J. “This is just perfect. It is perfect.” I must have said it 100 times before we boarded the bus back to Split.

After entering the main gate the small alleyways of white stone buildings and cobblestone streets lead us to a large square where the cathedral and clock tower are located. Having been in TONS of town squares in my life I wasn’t prepared for the quaintness of this one to move me as it did.

We followed the winding streets around the town, stopping to take pictures of the quaint buildings, the colorful laundry hanging on the lines, flower boxes full of red flowers, and gorgeous little nooks. We made our way to the promenade along the sea. Like Split the promenade is immaculately clean with large white stones, and gorgeous sea views. In Trogir it winds its way around the city towards the Kamerlengo Castle.

Heading back into town we found an incredible place to sit and have lunch before heading back to Split. (We ate at the Calebotta Restaurant where they even had a veggie pasta dish of swiss chard pesto with almonds.) I truly didn’t want to leave this quaint little town. Even though most of the shops and restaurants were closed it was so peaceful and gorgeous I wanted to hang out, read some books and pass a few months away.

A little tip for a day trip from Split to Trogir. If you travel by public bus, which is very comfortable and easy, make sure it is the direct bus. We made the mistake of getting on the local bus which took over an hour to get back and dropped us off in the middle of the newer part of the city.

Omis

Another town close to Split worth visiting on a day trip is Omis. We took the local bus and arrived there in about 45 minutes. The route runs along the Dalmatian Coast offering gorgeous views almost the entire trip. We actually hopped on the wrong bus, but the locals and bus driver evidently worked out how to accommodate us before we left the station, without us knowing it. When we arrived in Omis the driver had forgotten about us but the other passengers did not, they all reminded him and he immediately stopped the bus, and apologized profusely. It worked out perfectly for us as we ended up in a great location to see Omis in its entirety.

The route we ended up taking lead us over the main city bridge where the mountains split creating a beautiful gorge for the river to come through the mountains and into the sea. These dramatic mountains are so majestic towering over the city. There is an ancient fortress standing over the city high on the mountains. It is built so perfectly into the mountain cliff it almost eludes your sight at first.

Omis is famous for its pirate history. Throughout the quaint old town area there are symbols of these strong pirates who would use the river and huge gorges as a home base. Now the town is filled with restaurants and the impeccably maintained old stone buildings. There is the Happy Man House, a trail up to the Starigrad fortress, and small little churches all tucked into the medieval walls of the city.

During the warmer months Omis is popular for rafting down the river through the gorge. The high season also brings opportunities to free climb, scuba dive, zip line, windsurf and trek. I was deeply disappointed we had to miss these.

Krka National Park

Before embarking on our day trip to Krka all I knew was that Krka National Park is famous for its seven waterfalls. Bruno, the owner of our Airbnb, drove us along the beautiful coastal highway to reach Krka. Driving a car takes about one and a half hours, depending on construction. Each bend in the road revealed a new amazing seaside village or dramatic mountain view.

Arriving in Krka there is a large parking lot, and then a ticket office. You can either walk down to the water using a path on the left side of the road, or during season you can take a shuttle bus. Walking along the marked path offers some amazing views of the surrounding mountains, it is a rocky path so don’t wear flip-flops. Once you arrive at the bottom of the path you are greeted with a gorgeous view of the lakes and the Visovac Monastery. The Monastery is set on a tiny islet in the middle of the grand lakes. The soft turquoise blue of the water against the rocky mountains is absolutely stunning.

We took the wooden walkway around the water and worked our way down to the seven waterfalls. Water flowed all around us with waterfalls, trees, moss covered rocks, a few geese, and mountain views to inspire anyone, as we made our way to the bottom of the trail. Once we arrived at the bottom the spray from the waterfalls cooled us down but made photos almost impossible. Perhaps it was a blessing as we were forced to stand in the majesty of this incredible natural phenomenon. In the summer months travellers can swim in the pools created by the waterfalls.

As we walked back up we found some gorgeous little stone buildings surrounded by lush green grasses and watermills. It was a vision of perfection. Snow had been melting for weeks so the water around the houses was at full capacity and the waterfalls were overflowing. This made for an incredibly dramatic experience. Krka is not to be missed during a stay in Split. It is a day full of naturally beautiful surroundings which you can see nowhere else in the world.

It took us about an hour to walk down to the main waterfalls and the swimming area. We moved at a slow pace, taking time to snap photos and take in the surroundings. Krka can get busy in the summer months but I am told it never feels overly crowded. So plan for several hours at the park and take your time to enjoy all it has to offer. There are options for eating, having drinks and toilets. (If you are vegetarian you may want to bring your own food or eat in a local village as food options are extremely limited.)

Brac

Our goal was to visit some of the islands off of the Croatian mainland for a few of our day trips. However, because we were traveling in March most of the ferry lines were not running. Brac was one of the only places available for us to visit. So on a Sunday morning we hopped on the ferry to visit the island of Brac.

The ferry line runs from Split to Supetar. It is an extremely comfortable and beautiful trip. From the ferry you can see some of the other towns around Split as the boat makes its way to Supetar. There is great coffee and some food available on the one hour ferry ride.

As the ferry pulls in towards the town of Supetar the Petronovic family masoleum comes into view. It is an outstanding building with beautiful tombstones. The walk along the Riva and the pebble beaches is so beautiful, and like everywhere else in Croatia, absolutely pristine. We loved the architecture at the masoleum and the fantastic views of Supetar. During the high season there are watersports, cafe’s, restaurants and plenty of places to get massages along the walk.

The town of Supetar is quite lovely. The Church of the Annunciation is a beautiful piece of architecture with an outstanding painting inside. The houses are all quaint little stone structures huddled together to create an old downtown area. Since nothing was open yet we wandered the streets, then found a great lunch spot where we were able to partake in the amazing olive oil from the island. After lunch we huddled in a cafe, sipping coffee and taking in the beautiful sea view.

There are several villages on the island, the beautiful beach of Bol as well as the town of Pusisca and Milna. During high season they are all easily reachable either by taxi or local bus. If you have your own car you can certainly bring it over on the ferry and then drive yourself around the island. Being off season we should have arranged a driver before we arrived so we could see more of the limestone island. Even without venturing away from Supetar it was worth the day trip over to see the beautiful architecture and enjoy a more authentic Croatian experience.

Where to stay:

We stayed in this wonderful Airbnb in Split.

How to get to your day trips:

We traveled with the Croatian bus system. You can find information and schedules here.

We used this website to figure out the schedule for the ferry to Brac. We bought the tickets at the ferry station just past the bus station.

The Magic Of Split Croatia You Must See For Yourself

Split, Croatia is a mix of old and new, city and nature, past and future. The city of Split is mesmerizing with its gorgeous sea views, ancient architecture, delicious food, and incredible hospitality. I wasn’t prepared for Split to capture my heart as it did. Be prepared if you visit, there is a good chance you may never want to leave.

Diocletian’s Palace

There is so much to do in and around Split I wasn’t sure where to start. On our first morning we headed out just to walk and ended up at Diocletian’s Palace. The palace is a small complex with the Cathedral of St. Domnius, underground tunnels, Jupiters Temple, Imperial Apartments, a central square and remains of the ancient wall. Each piece of white stone reflects the amazing Dalmation sun. Built 1800 years ago the complex is an architectural marvel. Something about the warmth of the sun on the stone, the openness of the square and the immaculate surroundings invites all passer-by’s to stop and hang out. As we spent time here we couldn’t help but think about what it took to build the complex, and what the Emperor would think of it now.

They were so good at building that the aqueduct they built to supply water to the city still functions today as the water supply for the old town. Engineers studying it now are doubtful they could recreate the pitch and flow now even with modern equipment.

Green Market

Close to the palace is the green market. Locals bring their fruits, veggies, flowers, cheese, honey, lavender products and more to the area everyday to sell. It is a big part of the culture in Croatia and Split. Walking through the market was a great way to start understanding the Croatian culture. It was also a chance to purchase some great local food to cook in our apartment. I only wish I could have taken the gorgeous flowering plants back t ostart a garden on the balcony in our apartment.

Old Town

Walking through old town Split is stepping away from reality. Cobblestone walkways, extremely narrow streets, ancient architecture and ancient stone structures surround you. Numerous squares are filled with restaurants and cafe’s serving some of the best coffee in Europe. (Croats are crazy about coffee. They have mastered it in a way no one except the Italians have.) We visited in March so it was a bit cool. Blankets are laid across the backs of the chairs in restaurants and cafe’s ensuring outdoor people watching even in the cool months. I couldn’t help but sit longer at restaurants snuggled under the blankets admiring the gorgeous views of the sea or the ancient architecture.

Riva

We spent several days walking the Riva (the exquisite promenade along the sea), the marina and the beaches, which even in the cool months are filled with people on the weekends. The wide promenade is paved with the beautiful white stone found everywhere in the old town. The Riva is lined with restaurants, bars, cafes and shops. Outside of each are tables set to perfection. Palm trees and benches line the seashore providing a welcoming spot to enjoy the incredible view. Like every part of old town the Riva is immaculate. You will find no trash, graffiti or run down buildings here. It is truly perfection.

I was surprised to find most of the beaches have no sand, they are stone or concrete promenades with stone entrances to the sea. The culture in Split is very community oriented, people love sitting outside drinking coffee, beer or wine while they talk and play with their children. Unlike America it was very difficult to find people on their phones. They were interacting with each other or their kids instead.

Saturday night we headed to the soccer stadium to take in a game. An easy walk from old town the soccer stadium is located in the newer section of town overlooking the sea. While no one at the ticket office spoke English it was easy to purchase tickets. With the friendliness of the Croats we easily found our seats and settled in for a great game.

Little did we know that a tradition in Croatia is to bring flares and set them off at climactic points in the game. At one point the field was filled with smoke from the flares and the fireworks the fans threw on the field that it was difficult to see the game. At first we were uneasy seeing all of this smoke but the Croats love it, allow it and amidst the smoke they chant for the success of their team. Walking back to town with the crowds of people was a great experience. All of the fans, including us, were filled with joy at the incredible win against a rival.

Sustipan

Nature is an important part of Split. Not just the sea but also their parks. There are two hills in Split that are easily accessible and well worth the treks. The first one is accessible if you walk past the marina and up the hill. It is Sustipan. Sustipan offers some incredible views of the sea, the cities around Split all stacked along the seashore, as well as a quaint white stone church. The walk up is pretty easy and definitely worth spending some quiet time on a bench looking out at the sea and passing sailboats.

Marjan Hill

Marjan hill can be climbed starting just off the Riva. The trek starts through a residential part of town with stone houses and fantastic views of the city. (If you walk up the street next to the church and monastery of St. Francis you are on the right road.) The walkway turns to wide stone steps through trees leading up to a small church and incredible views of the sea and the cities surrounding Split. There is a playground for kids towards the top. Of course I couldn’t stop there, so we trekked to the top, which actually didn’t offer the best views as those we found along the way. It was a great way to spend an afternoon and get a little exercise and bragging rights to climbing the highest point in the city of Split.

Croatia immediately captured our hearts with their relaxed lifestyle, appreciation for moving slowly and enjoying life. They will go out of their way to help whether it is with directions, information or recommendations. It was almost immediately apparent that the Croats are just as beautiful as the country they inhabit.

While we found it so incredibly easy, relaxing, inspiring and fun to be in Split we did venture out on 5 different day trips. You can read about them here.

Getting There

Getting to Split was as easy as getting to many other European destinations. We flew from the U.S. to Frankfurt. A quick layover of 3 hours and we had a 1 1/2 hour flight directly to Split. From the Split airport you have the choice of arranging for a driver beforehand, taking the airport shuttle bus directly to Split, or catching a local bus, or taxi. Knowing we would be jet lagged we arranged for a driver beforehand who met us at the airport and drove us directly to our Airbnb. The wonderful owner of the Airbnb we stayed in took care of all of the arrangements with the driver. During our drive (about 25 minutes) the driver gave us a great introduction to Croatia and to Split.

Where to Stay

There are many hotels in Split to choose from so you really can’t go wrong. We chose this Airbnb and couldn’t have been happier. Perfect location, amazing owner and comfy apartment. I would definitely stay in the Old Town or as close to it as you can. We loved being close to the Riva so we could take morning strolls along the sea.

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Where to Eat

While there are so many good restaurants in Split these were our favorites:

Articok (Beautiful mural on the wall, small so make reservations during high season. Made me a special vegetarian dish.)

Brassierie on 7 (Delicious Acai smoothie bowl)-expensive but amazing location on the Riva and beautiful interior

Corto Maltese (Amazing vegetarian Goats Milk Risotto with beet chips. Quirky with great atmosphere!)

Sexy Cow (Try the grilled veggie salad & other delicious wraps for meat eaters)

Marta’s Fusion (I loved the food at this veggie restaurant. Even J. who loves meat found great food here.)

Luka Ice Cream & Cakes (You MUST try the salted caramel gelato. You will thank me I promise.)

Dublin-An Irresistible European City You Must See

Dublin is vibrant, alive, creative and historical all at the same time. The irresistible city of Dublin has so much to offer and does so with a slow pace and kind heart. Dublin feels like a small town even though its population is 1.2 million people. Easy to get around, great food, wonderful local pubs and incredible history make Dublin a must see city in Europe.

We stayed in the heart of the city on Anger Street close to St. Stephens Green. Located so close to everything we were able to walk everywhere which was fantastic. The architecture in Dublin wasn’t the most impressive of the European cities, instead it offers an unassuming attitude where people just seem to be enjoying life.

Restaurants and pubs in Dublin are generally small. This makes each experience feel more intimate. Finally I had found the local pub I had been seeking our entire trip. On our second night at our newly found pub we were seated in stools at a table drinking Guiness and Baileys, watching a soccer game when a group of people came over and sat in the corner surrounding us. Without realizing it they had engulfed us in their group. In true Irish fashion they just offered us some of the food they had brought, and invited us into their little party.

In Dublin we finally found a Doyle pub. J. was in heaven as we went to have a pint and lunch. The owners talked about the Doyle family name, took pictures with him behind the bar and gave him a hat as a show of “family” pride. There is something really cool about getting back to the root of the roots of your family. A sense of belonging you never knew you were missing. We purchased a bunch of Doyle SWAG and headed out to visit one of the places I have been most excited about.

Trinity College Library

Trinity College Library has been on my list of things to see since my sister visited Dublin 10 years ago. It has taunted me from Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter for years. I am a very proud Book Worm with a special love for libraries. On top of that I love a well designed building. Trinity library has all of it in the most elegant display I have ever seen.

I would recommend buying tickets online to avoid a line to get in. The Book of Kells was on display which was absolutely fantastic. The drawings and calligraphy were exceptional. Even though it wasn’t very crowded the day we were there this was extremely overcrowded. It was difficult to find a place to see the book itself. No one was there to form people into a line so it became quite competitive for people trying to see. In fact J. just stepped back and gave up.

From the Book of Kells we walked up the stairs to the library. Dark wood ceilings and bookshelves cover the buildings structure. It is a massive room with beautifully bound books, dark wood ladders and glass display cases lining the interior space. As I walked slowly through, surrounded by all of this knowledge and creativity I became more and more reluctant to leave. I lingered over the Oscar Wilde displays and grinned at his incredible wit. Trinity College library is so inviting and spectacular I noticed I was not alone in walking through the space in complete awe.

Dublin Castle & Charles Beatty Library

Dublin’s castle is worth a visit for sure. We toured the interior, which was much larger and grander than we had expected. It is full of historical information. Around the back of the castle is the Charles Beatty library.

Books in this library come from all over the world. It is the largest collection of antique books in the world. In fact, some of the oldest books in existence are on display here. Displays in this library are done to perfection. Room after room is filled with books open to display the beautiful art, calligraphy or craftsmanship.

My favorite was a parchment book which took 40 years to reassemble due to the age and disrepair. Many of the pieces of this book were as small as grains of rice. The assembly of the book had been commissioned in Germany before World War 2. As the war closed in on the gentleman and his son who were commissioned with the work they fled the country, but took the book and its pieces with them, their dedication to finishing the job was so great. Treasures like this fill the Charles Beatty library along with rotating art displays. Inside there is also an elegant café serving light food and coffee if you wish to take a break.

Temple Bar

Temple Bar is known for its pubs and music scene but I found it to be very touristy, as warned by locals throughout our travels, so we decided to find more authentic pubs to listen to local Irish music. Man am I glad we did. Aside from the two very drunk girls from New York who kept bumping up against us and harassing this guy, until the bartenders politely suggested they leave, the night was perfect. Sitting in the corner of the pub were two men and a woman each with their own variety of instruments and microphones. Some of the songs they sang and some were purely instrumental, and each of them was accompanied by the clapping and/or singing of the crowd. The battered wood floors, dark paneled walls, surly Irish staff made the evenings spent there full of warmth and laughter.

During the day we did walk through the Temple Bar area to check out the iconic pubs, walk along the river and do some shopping in a few of the boutiques there. It is a quaint and colorful area well worth a stroll. There are a few really good souvenir shops in the area selling different products than we had seen anywhere else. Essex Street has some great shopping, including one of my favorite stores in Dublin, Scout.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

One afternoon we walked over to St. Patrick’s cathedral. I need to warn you beforehand that J. and I suffer from church burnout. After having traveled so much in Europe we have seen more than our fair share of churches, and while they are all beautiful it takes quite a bit to really move us at this point. St. Patrick’s cathedral is set off on its own in the city, away from the other tourist attractions. The grey façade is quite understated even on this grand building in the middle of the city. The interior is a bit underwhelming compared to many of the churches we have seen over the years. This is typical of Ireland though, not a lot of flash but a good solid building that lasts 800-900 years. We did enjoy the history and monuments in the cathedral so take your time and check them all out.

National Museum

Dublin is home to the National Museum of Ireland. I desperately wanted to visit this museum to see the Bog Bodies exhibit. Bog bodies sound like a really bizarre thing to want to see and they are bizarre but seriously they were so interesting and worth the time as we have never seen anything like them before.

Bog bodies are dead people found in bogs in Denmark, Germany, Ireland, Britain and the Netherlands. Their bodies were preserved in the bogs some dating back as far as 400 BC. The display is made up of both women and men. Their preserved bodies have fingernails, skin and other distinguishing features we would never see on bodies this old. Most of the bodies markings reveal how the people died (which was usually in a brutal way). As strange or morose as it may sound it was incredibly fascinating to see the bodies, still covered in skin which now resembles a dark leather. Standing in front of each body you can see what they would have looked like, how tall they would have been, they suddenly stop being exhibits and start being humans. The bodies are so well preserved we know what many of them ate as their last meals.

The museum is a large and beautiful building housing many beautiful exhibits which are well worth the time to see. If you go make sure to check out the architectural details of the building itself and not just the exhibits.

We were there in the end of October so it was chilly and grey everyday, yet we were still able to enjoy all that Dublin would reveal in the six days of our trip. Our six days were relaxed and enjoyable. Immediately we felt at home and at ease in Dublin.

Great Places To Eat And Drink:

There are good restaurants and great local pubs on South Great Georges Street/Aungier Street. We listened to music and visited some pubs on Exchequer St, Drury St and South William Street Quarter.

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The Giant’s Causeway-A True Wonder Of The World

A visit to the Giant’s Causeway was on the top of my Ireland wish list. After spending some time there I don’t think a visit to Ireland is complete without going to The Giant’s Causeway. The pure miracle of what the earth created is hard to beat anywhere in the world. As you explore the Giant’s Causeway it subtly steals your heart and then find yourself desperate to stay just a few minutes longer.

The Giant’s Causeway is quite unassuming. With ample parking, a visitors center which blends right into the setting and a few local Irish restaurants at the outskirts it feels as though what you are going to see isn’t all that special. Taking visitors by surprise is what The Giant’s Causeway does from beginning to end. It is one of the reasons I loved it so much.

Upon entering the visitors center you buy your tickets, walk through the very elegant gift shop and then through the glass doors to begin the discovery. There are options to either walk or take the bus. We opted for walking. If you have any issues with walking up and down steep hills I would encourage you to take the bus. Otherwise definitely take the walk.

Hills surround the walkway as the descent to the sea begins. Bright green grass covers the hills and pinnacles while the shore changes dramatically. Around the bends of the road unusual rock formations begin to show on the hills, the odd shapes could definitely be used for inspiration in a sci-fi movie. The sea begins to reveal itself on the left side as these strange rock shapes begin to show themselves in the water and mix with dark black boulders, and long grasses. As cool as this is, it is only just the beginning. That is how The Giant’s Causeway is. Each experience seems to be amazing and then, there is something even more incredible.

Then there is the moment when you see the mountains line the sea, and the pinnacles rise up gently at first until they form a massive structure of uneven levels of six sided pinnacles, each and every one gloriously created by Mother Nature. This is the point when J. and I stopped talking and just stood in awe. To see the Giant’s Causeway is amazing, but to really digest the earth’s ability to create such a sight is almost impossible.

Honestly for me to find the words even now is difficult. So I will let the pictures speak for me.

After spending time on the pinnacles we headed further down the road to sit in the stone chair and take in the majesty of our surroundings.

From there we trekked up one of the hills and around into a crevice. Unfortunately the pathway had collapsed earlier in the year so we were unable to finish the trek. The views from the path are some of the best in the park so we took our time, took tons of pictures and found every reason we could to not start trekking back. Even though it was quite cold the day we visited none of that mattered. The awe we both had for the view, the natural events which occurred here, and the amazing structures were all we could think about. (If you have any issues with climbing, or stability I would proceed up the hill with caution, the rocks can be a bit tricky and it is a fairly steep climb.)

The visitors center is definitely one of the best I have ever been in. Not only is the architecture fantastic but the quality of the gifts and the coffee is worth taking a few minutes to enjoy.

The Legend Of The Giant’s Causeway:

The myth is that the Giant’s causeway was formed by the giant Finn throwing rocks into the sea to build a causeway to protect Northern Ireland from the Scottish giant Benandonner. Legend has it that Benandonner was much larger than Finn so Finn ran back to shore. When he reached land his wife disguised him as a baby. Upon seeing the giant baby Benandonner deduced that if the baby was that large then the father must be huge. He immediately left.

The Science Of The Giant’s Causeway:

Science says the causeway was formed by a volcanic eruption some 60 million years ago. After the lava came crashing down it cooled and formed over 40,000 basalt columns which are still there to this day. UNESCO has deemed it a World Heritage Site due to its ancient history.

Where We Stayed:

We chose to stay in Derry (Londonderry) to explore Northern Ireland. Derry is a walled in city on the River Foyle. The town name is either Derry or Londonderry. Depending on who you talk to you will get a different answer about what the name of the town really is. Most Northern Ireland residents consider the town to be Derry while the official name is Londonderry. We stayed at the Bishop’s Gate Hotel, which was absolutely fantastic. Bishop’s Gate restaurant was veggie friendly and the bar is a lovely place to spend an evening.

How To Get There:

From Derry you can get to the Giant’s Causeway via the Causeway Coastal Route. This route was absolutely gorgeous. Driving along the northern coast is exceptional with beach towns, ocean views and a fantastic stop at the Downhill Demesne and Hezlett house ruins. This route also took us through the small town of Bushmills. If you have the time the tour of the distillery tour is supposed to be excellent.

There are tours and buses which also go to the Giant’s Causeway. It is also possible to take the highway most of the route.

Did you know you can order my photos as puzzles by following this link?

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Galway Day Trips-4 Amazing Places You Must See

Galway day trips were the highlight of our visit to Ireland. Within a few hours drive you can visit Cliffs of Moher, Connemara, Cong, Limerick, Adare, Clifden and of course the city of Galway. These Galway Day Trips are some of the most dramatic and scenic places in Ireland:

Cliffs of Moher

The most famous day trip from Galway would have to be the Cliffs of Moher. It is a beautiful one and a half hour drive from Galway to the Cliffs of Moher. You can opt for a bus tour, public bus (Eireann 350 route from the Galway bus station). We chose to drive ourselves. There are several routes you can take either the N67, the L1014 to N67 or R460. For us the R460 was the perfect option as it is country roads so we were able to see more of the countryside and some of the Burren. (Read more about driving in Ireland.)

When we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher it was another hazy rainy day with the cool fall wind blowing. We parked in the parking lot. Then walked towards the visitor center which is beautifully built into the landscape so as not to disturb the beauty of nature. From the visitors center you can either go to the left or to the right. In order to walk the cliffs we veered left and formed a part of an incredibly long line. Muddy slopes and deep puddles proved to be a challenge for most of us, especially the women who showed up in high heel shoes (NOTE: DO NOT go to the Cliffs of Moher in any season in high heel shoes). Step by muddy step we walked along the cliffs, watching people walk dangerously close to the edge. The awe of the cliffs is not lost but is certainly diminished in the incredibly long lines of people trying to pass one another and walk in the narrow pathways.

Each of the four cliffs is as breath taking as the last and when taken in together are truly jaw dropping. Once you have passed the final narrow pathway you are free to wander the black rocks, dramatic edges and grassy patches which make up this unbeatable coastline. Feeling a little overwhelmed by the people I took the time to stand still and feel the wind blowing as I listened to the sounds of the waves crashing. To not take a moment would be a shame after the journey as this is truly a remarkable feat of nature. The drama created by each cliff giving way to the next is spectacular.

After making our way back to the center area of the park we headed for the right side of the park. Here is where you can truly grasp the effect of each of the cliffs fading into one another. Concrete steps allow for an easier hike up the hills. A different landscape will greet you here. Instead of rocky edges there are sloping edges with long grass caught in the fall breeze. I loved the contrast of the landscapes and the way the grass gently protected the area. There is a small fort at the top of the hill here where you can sit and rest amongst the people. There are also beautiful views in the opposite direction of the four cliffs which are worth taking in even since they are completely different. This was also so amazing to me, the contrast of landscape which flows so gently from one to the other.

Inside the visitors center there is a large restaurant, shopping, a couple of small cafes and bathrooms. We stopped in to have some hot chocolate and were blessed with some Irish folklore from an Irish bus driver. Even though the crowds do not let up inside the visitors center we were able to find a few moments of authenticity with this Irish gentleman.

Connemara

As we traveled along the one lane road from Galway to Connemara I experienced this moment of absolute visual perfection. On a small stone bridge, perched next to a small lake and nestled into the red, orange and yellow palette of the fall tress is Kylemore Abbey. Immediately I told Jim to stop the car so I could jump out and take pictures. This spot, and this moment was a photographers dream. In fact, I would end up with better views as we traveled onto the Abbey property. However, I would not get another moment of awe, of complete perfection as I had on that bridge.

Traveling through Connemara National Park is a visual treat. There is no other way for me to describe it. The small roads, the mountains covered in bursts of fall colors, all shimmering in the fall rain, and the stillness of nature surrounding you as you explore make for an experience it is impossible to forget. Unfortunately we were unable to trek through the National Park since the rain was falling so heavily.

You can travel to the Abbey via car on the N59 (this is what we did and loved it), by local bus from Galway station, or with a bus tour. From there we drove through the National Forest. Then on to the cute seaside town of Clifden for a great lunch and a little window shopping.

Cong

Drive down R334 from Galway to Cong and you will enjoy the beautiful scenery County Mayo has to offer. The county is full of quaint towns full of picturesque houses with flowers overflowing from window boxes and ivy growing up the old stone walls.

Visiting Cong is like stepping back in time. It is a very small village whose main claim to fame is The Quiet Man movie museum. What we found was scenery you can only imagine. We parked our car in the small village and then walked to the ruins of a medieval Abbey. From there it is a beautiful walk through the park area where we found swans swimming in the small pond. Walking through a beautiful gate there are some trails which we were unable to take due to the rain (again).

A quick walk through town taking in the thatched roofed homes, a few cute shops and a couple of nice restaurants should only take you half an hour. This was a great day for us to enjoy a day trip and explore Galway in the late afternoon.

Limerick & Adare

I was worried if we didn’t take a day trip to Adare and Limerick I would be missing out. Adare is famous for its thatched roof houses and medieval monasteries. To be honest we were completely disappointed in Adare. The thatched houses are very cute but there are only a few of them along the main street. Unless you are looking for something to do one day I really wouldn’t recommend this stop. You can see thatched buildings in Cong and so much more.

Limerick is one of the biggest cities in Ireland. I tend to avoid driving through big cities but we really wanted to see King John’s castle in Limerick so we decided to take the hour and a half drive from Galway and give it a try. It was really easy to manage and we found the city to be pretty interesting. The architecture in Limerick is a big contrast to Cork being more decorative and condensed.

King John’s castle sits right on the rivers Shannon and Abbey. The castle is still in quite good condition. While the interior courtyard was quite barren the exhibits and videos of the history of the castle, and the area were incredible! Seriously they are some of the best I have seen in any museum. I loved learning about the history not only of the castle but the region, and the country. I would highly recommend this if you have the time in Ireland.

Often cafes in castle museums aren’t much to speak of but the all glass cafe in King John’s castle is quite nice. The view over the castle and the town is very nice. Once we were done touring the castle we took a walk around this part of town, enjoyed some lunch and headed back to Galway, in the rain of course.

Galway

Galway was one of our favorite towns in Ireland. Strolling down Quay street, while very small, is incredibly authentic. It is full of stone buildings, live music, pubs, restaurants, and shopping (not just souvenir shops). We had an amazing lunch at The Quay Street Kitchen. J. loved their sweet potato fries, and I was so happy to find some delicious vegetarian food there. I also had the best hair cut on our 9 month trip in Galway for only 20 euro.

During one of strolls around the city we stumbled on a great band playing in the street, a bagpipe player, and individual singers. For the first time in a larger town I felt like we had arrived in what I had always pictured a large Irish town to be.

Due to some scheduling issues with Airbnb (our only host cancellation ever) we stayed here. While it was a nice hotel it was quite a ways out of town. There is a great pub across the street for dinner so we hung out there most evenings. A local eatery is behind the hotel which was great to grab something to eat after one of our shorter day trips.

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