10 Days In Lucca Italy

If you want to be romanced, or swept away, slip back in time, or just simply relax Lucca Italy is the place to go. The ancient walls surrounding Lucca have protected it from change and somehow magically seem to block out the rest of the world. This is probably why it is one of the best places J. and I ever travel. When we are away from Lucca we can’t wait to get back, it is pure magic.

We first traveled to Lucca in 2006, immediately I knew I would never be the same. Walking through the ancient walls of Lucca is like walking back in time. Nothing architectural has changed in the last 100 years or more. The city is confined by the 16th century wall, where I have spent many hours riding my bike, reading, relaxing and seeing the sights. Now the wall is adorned with amazing statues, and little museums where you can discover the history of Lucca, Tuscany and Italy. There is an incredible romance on the wall in Lucca. The views of the city within the walls and the mountains outside of it pull you away from the rest of the world, while the trees lining each side of the road on the wall seem to cast a shadow of peace and tranquility. The wall is not without its tour groups, which weren’t there when we first started visiting Lucca, but a quick ride past them and you forget there is anyone there.

Inside the walls are two main Piazza’s, Piazza San Michele and Piazza Napoleone. The former is home to a beautiful church topped with a bronze angel, and my favorite coffee shop (Turandot Cafe) in the city. Piazza Napoleone is a massive square flanked on one side by the Palace of Napoleons sister, on the other two by restaurants and shops (and my favorite pizza restaurant Fuori di Piazza) and the fourth is more coffee shops and what used to be an art school. It is home to some of the most beautiful white barked trees in all of Italy. In each square there are always events going on like markets, wine tastings or the incredible Summer Music Festival. There is nothing like sitting in either of these Piazzas and people watching for hours over coffee or Prosecco.

Walking the ancient cobblestoned streets of Lucca you are surrounded by gorgeous shops, coffee shops, gelateria’s, restaurants, little markets, and people walking arm in arm or hand in hand. There are locals riding bikes and walking through the streets groceries in hand, or rushing to the amazing Foccaccia store before they close for Risposo(Italian Siesta). The Foccaccia store is an incredible experience, not just because of the amazing Foccaccia bread but for the smell of the fresh baked bread, the experience of cramming into the small space with all the locals who somehow can keep track of who gets served next even though they subscribe to the Italian philosophy of not lining up. It feels a bit like visiting the Soup Nazi on Seinfeld (although they are much friendlier).

This time we spent our time reconnecting with friends, visiting store owners we knew and hadn’t seen in 10 years. It was such a moving experience, like coming home. We rented an amazing AirBnb with a beautiful terrace where I could sit outside, write and listen to music coming from the churches around us. That is the thing about Lucca, the culture! Nightly there are free concerts and events throughout the city, you can never run out of things to do. There is a beautiful music hall to watch symphony’s or sit in one of the churches and listen to a beautiful concert put on by local students or artists.

We spent a weekend shopping the antique market which is set up in three Piazzas and full of art, jewelry, toys, prints, books, furniture and every kind of trinket you can imagine. We bought a few pieces of art while we were there (all of which were gifts), which we committed to carry in our suitcases for the next month and a half (if you have been following our journey for the past 7 months you know we buy almost nothing since we only have two suitcases and a few boxes to our name in the world). You just can’t resist the things at this market, then packing it into you bike basket and riding back to your room to revel in your deals.

It is easy to get to Florence from Lucca, an hour train ride, so we spent one day there lunching with friends. I love Florence so much but was so sad to see ALL the tourists there. It was almost impossible to move around which quickly drove J. to the edge. After checking out a few of our favorite shops on the side streets, and standing under a building awning waiting out a torrential downpour, we were back on the train and headed back to quiet Lucca.

There is so much to do around Lucca, but I think that is a whole different post I have to make one day since this trip was just about hanging out, taking in the essence of the city and relaxing. It really as it should be in Lucca. Hidden away from the rest of the world in this beautiful little city.

One of the nights we were there we were lucky enough to have our favorite coffee shop hold seats for us so we could witness the Luminara di Santa Croce. This is a really incredible experience, that we have had the pleasure of seeing twice. It always takes place on Sept. 15th. It is a massive parade (for lack of a better word) that makes its way down Via Filungo, into Piazza Napoleone and then to the Church of San Frediano where Il Volto Santo (The Holy Face) is housed. The Volto Santo is a source of great pride for the Luchese people. To read the whole story visit this site (It is worth it, the story is great). The Luminara di Santa Croce is a HUGE deal in Lucca, it has been taking place for over a millennial. They light the path with candles displayed along the streets, I don’t mean a few candles I mean thousands of streets suspended on buildings lining the major streets on the journey to the Duomo. The whole town is dark except for the candles and people walk the path dressed either representing their church and carrying large symbols of their church or Christ, or dressed in period outfits. It is absolutely magical.

One of our favorite things to do in Lucca is hang out in the wine store, Vinni Liquori Vanni, in Piazza San Salvatore. There is an underground storage area filled with bottles that are hundreds of years old, liquors that are so exclusive they sell for thousands of dollars and wine packaging from the last few centuries. It is an incredible experience which shouldn’t be missed.

We spent an evening in Montecarlo enjoying an incredible dinner with friends in one of the best restaurants in the world, Pierantonio Antico Ristorante Forasieppi . If you get to Lucca it is worth the trip to sit in this beautiful restaurant overlooking all of Tuscany, eating the most incredible food and drinking way too much Prosecco and wine. It is an easy train and taxi ride there and back, and well worth it!

We also had drinks and dinner in the beautiful beach town of ViaReggio after watching local students playing a drum concert on the Art Nouveau lined streets. Watching the wave crash against the Tuscan shore was nothing but joy as the Aperol flowed in the all glass bar at the end of the ViaReggio pier.

When I think about our time in Lucca it is always like a dream, one that I never want to end, and when I realize it must all I think about is how to get back there. Leaving this town breaks my heart and I can only be consoled with the thought I will be back again soon for we can’t stay away from the place where our hearts sing, our glasses are filled with beautiful wine, our table filled with amazing food and our lives overflowing with beautiful friends.

Where To Eat:

Canuleia-Via Canuleia 14 has a beautiful garden in the back where they serve fantastic food. It is popular so on the weekends book ahead.

If you are thinking about Lucca or Tuscany please feel free to get in touch, I have spent a lot of time here and love to share tips and experiences. You can also read my post on A Luxury Travel Blog.

SaveSave

Relaxing In Saturnia

The luxury of being a nomad is that we can use crazy metrics to choose places to visit. Our next destination was to a place J. had seen a picture of on a Facebook ad. (Very similar to the way our adventure this year began.) We had no idea where the place was, or what it was just that he wanted to sit in the middle of these pools of water. We started googling everything we could think of and finally found the place-the thermal baths of Saturnia. This was how we charted our course for our month in Italy.

Located in Saturnia, in Tuscany, the thermal baths are sulfur pools created by water that flows from a source over 600 feet below the earths surface. They are heated by the volcanic activity of the volcano- Monte Amiata. They are healing waters that are very popular with the Italians. They come en masse to spend a day sitting in the waters, or hanging out around the waters basking in the sun and hills that surround the baths. We had to go!

The problem with Saturnia is that without a car it isn’t that easy to get to. We didn’t know this when we booked our B&B and our train tickets. We were told we could hop on the train and then grab a taxi to the B&B, which is true, but when we left the train station and talked to the taxi drivers we realized that there were some details left out of the directions-mainly the hour and half 175.00 taxi ride from the train station. With no cell service and no other options we agreed to the fees and headed up into the Tuscan hills towards the thermal baths and the town of Saturnia.

I have to admit that for some reason I didn’t do much research on Saturnia. I guess I just felt like it didn’t matter since J. wanted to see the thermal baths. I am glad I didn’t do the research for the surprise of what Saturnia and the surrounding area is was so much better that way.

The taxi drive to the B&B was beautiful. We wound our way through the hills, watching towns appear as we travelled higher and higher up into the hills. The towns were small with homes, castles or churches blending into the landscape. The natural stone from the area was used in building the towns creating this cohesive atmosphere, as if each town popped up out of the hills. We hadn’t seen this since Morocco.

Our B&B was nestled into the side of a hill looking out at a beautiful mountain, and stream. It was heaven. As we checked in J. remarked that it was like staying at your old Aunt’s house, so welcoming and warm, with floral wallpaper, plush carpet on the stairs, and the most incredible breakfasts you can imagine! It really was. We felt immediately at home, as we stepped onto our balcony overlooking the untouched nature surrounding us we both wanted to settle in for a while.

The town of Saturnia is so small, this is their gas station.

We wanted to head to town for an afternoon snack but found out everything was closed for Resposito (siesta), so once again we were scrounging for snacks in our bags to try to make a meal. One of the downsides of traveling by train is that some of the stations can be pretty small and finding food isn’t always easy so there have been days we arrived in the middle of the afternoon and had to wait until restaurants opened at 8 to eat. You would think we would have learned our lesson from this and started to carry more snacks, but admittedly we just aren’t that together. These are the days I miss my sister. She would take care of all of that ahead of time, making sure we had everything we needed just in case. My fly by the seat of my pants attitude can often result in very hungry days, or unexpected 175.00 cab rides… We also learned that there are only four restaurants in town so it could be very difficult for us to find a table to eat dinner, and no there were no other options. UGH!

Town was up the hill about a twenty-minute walk on a curvy road, with no sidewalks or shoulders. We headed up to try to beg someone for a table. As we rounded the last corner of our walk we headed into the quaintest Italian town I have ever been in. Seriously, this little town has maybe six little lanes, four restaurants, two gelato/bar/cafes, a center Piazza, some ruins in one corner, and then as far as the eye can see hills and mountains. Absolute magic. This is the way I saw it, J. saw it as a very scary place to try to get dinner. However, in his usual way of getting what he wants he headed into the restaurant serving something vegetarian and talked his way into the last table available outside. As we waited for everything to open we sat and watched the children run around without a care, no cars to worry about, no strangers, or anything else bad as a threat. What a life to live. I wanted to grab my whole family and moved them into this safe heaven of a town where we could let go of stress, sit in a bar, watch a soccer game, drink some wine all while the kids run around laughing and playing truly without a care.

I had booked us here for three nights and two days. The first day we spent hanging out at the hotel, trying to recover from the incredible breakfast buffet we had each morning in the cozy basement restaurant, and hiking around the woods outside of our hotel. We discovered small waterfalls, a babbling stream and incredible views of the mountain we saw from our balcony. It was just what we needed after so many weeks touring cities. We ate dinner at the amazing restaurant owned by our B&B owners. It was absolutely incredible. After the night before when we had to walk home by iPhone flashlight the hotel owner took to driving us up and down the hill to preserve our safety (Italian drivers can take the curves pretty fast and pedestrians aren’t really expected on the roads.).

The second day began our crazy adventure. We wanted to go to the thermal baths which didn’t translate the way I intended and we ended up at a Spa where we had to pay a lot of money to get in and everything was set up like pools at a health club. Obviously this was the wrong place but when we tried to explain where we wanted to go the staff didn’t seem to understand. One of them took pity on us and called the luxury hotel next door and they agreed to allow us into their pool area. He walked us over to the hotel only for us to find out it was not what we were looking for either (information on the thermal baths isn’t easy to find). Finally someone realized what we were talking about and explained that it was about one a half miles from where we were. They explained that since we didn’t have a car it would be crazy for us to get there, but we were not going to be stopped, we had come just for these baths. They sweetly refunded our money and we headed out to the baths. Along the way the stream of sulfur water runs through the fields and people can be found hanging out, soaking in them, often with bikes parked next to them.

We made it to the baths, Saturnia Thermal Springs (Terme di Saturnia) where it was immediately obvious Italians love to hang out. The baths were full of people of every age, sitting, talking and laughing while they took in the benefits from the sulfur. It wasn’t quite what we had expected, a lot more people, and a lot less majestic. That isn’t to say we didn’t enjoy it, we did, after we left our stuff on the bank of the river and climbed our way into the water we were able to find a place to sit, right in one of the tiny waterfalls. The warm water moved hard and fast so it really required holding on to stay comfortable. For those of you familiar with sulfur you know it smells, at the thermal baths there was a smell but it was quite subtle. After we sat in the water for a bit we headed up to the café for an espresso and the coolest thing ever, an automatic pizza machine. There was a small group of people gathered as someone put 3 euro into the vending machine and it kicked to life, a fire burned, a pizza dropped onto the oven and cooked for a few minutes, was put into a pizza to go box and popped out. It was absolutely incredible and evidently quite good. I think there is nothing in Italy not having to do with pizza.

That night we made our way down the hill to the local family restaurant where we enjoyed amazing pizza, delicious wine, and the essence of all that is Italy, community, food, drink and quality of life. It is why Italy has our hearts and always will.

We had trouble finding a way to get from Saturnia to the train station an hour and a half away since the few drivers in the area were booked and the bus didn’t get to the station in time for us to catch the train to Lucca, our next destination. Amazingly the owner of the hotel offered to drive us with her family as they headed to a shopping day in the same town as the train. We rode with them down the mountain, making conversation as best we could, soaking up the kindness of the amazing people we meet along the way.

If you are planning a visit I would go during the week to avoid the people if that is your goal. It was fun for us to be around all of the people, but a little frustrating for photos. Look for the signs for Terme di Saturnia. There is a parking lot there and best of all parking and the baths are FREE.

Orvieto: The Perfect Italian Hilltop Town

Ten years ago I visited Orvieto with some friends. I was so moved by the town, the views and the incredible Duomo. For ten years it has been important to me to take J. there to experience what I did because sometimes words just aren’t enough, even as a writer. Orvieto would be my second choice for a place to live in Italy. This medieval city sits atop a volcanic cliff, watching over Umbria below. Its history is varied, people are warm and the winding streets filled with wonder. For me Orvieto is magic, it is romance and it is peace, far enough away it feels like there is no other world, yet close enough to everything you never feel out of touch. Perhaps it is this separation which makes the city feel miles apart from reality, and encourages the locals to be more artistic, creative and welcoming.

As with almost all of our European travel we arrived by train and then rode up to the top of Orvieto. You can also take a funicular, or buses from the newer part of the city which is below the medieval center. The ride up is similar to Assisi, full of anticipation of what lies above. As with Assisi entering into the town is like going back into time, a beautiful slower paced life where social connections are still face to face and not screen to screen.

We stayed in a newly remodeled AirBnb which was absolutely perfect. On our first afternoon it was a bit overcast but it didn’t stop us from heading out to find some delicious pasta and local wine (something Orvieto is famous for). A lot of the restaurants in Orvieto are either indoors or have only a few tables set outside along the small and quiet streets. There aren’t restaurant filled Piazzas as in many other towns in Italy. I found this created a more romantic and intimate experience than the people watching in the Piazzas. I couldn’t wait to show J. the town so we walked through the streets discovering craftsman making shoes by hand and ceramicists painting their wares which recently emerged from their kilns. There are tiny little markets, clothing stores, jewelry stores, and adorable kids stores scattered along the streets each one showing off the incredible display abilities of the staff. It is easy to cover most of the town in an afternoon if you are only looking at the surface. So this is what we did on the first day, just wandered and admired, working up an appetite for some of the best pizza I have ever eaten. (Seriously I still dream of that amazing pizza, eaten outdoors in a quiet little street by candlelight.)

Our second day in Orvieto we headed to the Duomo. The Duomo (cathedral) in Orivieto is incredibly special. The facade is an incredible display of mosaics, carved alabaster, bronze statuary and stone. The gold mosaics glimmer in the sun as it moves across the sky. The duomo is majestic against the countryside, almost showing off its incredible design. As we entered the massive doors I could tell J. thought I was crazy for going on and on about this church, especially after many of them we have seen in the world. Yes, he was blown away by the exterior but the interior was a bit disappointing at first glance. The striped stone work which make up the structure is nice but hardly worth talking about for ten years. Then, as we wandered further in to the church he understood what I meant as we walked into the room painted from top to bottom with the stories of the bible including the damnation of revelations, and heaven and hell. It is an incredibly symbolic and overwhelming experience to take in this artwork which surrounds you as you enter the space.

After touring the duomo we spent time in the archaeology museum checking out their amazing finds from local archaeology digs. The quiet and unassuming atmosphere is the perfect place to enjoy the discoveries made over the last 100 years. It tells an incredible story not only of Orvieto but also the country surrounding it. When we were done in the museum we took the short walk to one of the edges of town and sat in the little park looking at the amazing countryside of Umbria and an incredible castle close by.

We spent another day in Orvieto wandering the streets, shopping in the little stores, enjoying coffee in a great cafe filled with wood sculptures carved by a local genius (we are talking life size giraffes, monkeys, and architectural pieces carved from a lighthearted and unique perspective). We popped into an antique show set up in a six hundred year old chapel, headed to the edges of the town up and down hills, and then made our way back for a tour of underground Orvieto. In all honesty I wasn’t that excited about this tour, but when in Rome right? So, we bought tickets and headed under the city with a great guide. It turns out that the incredible of skill of the locals 2500 years ago when they started carving under the city was incredible. The citizens of Orvieto realized if there was a long war going on where they became stranded in their town protecting themselves they could run out of water. This started a digging campaign which lasted until the 20th century. What started as wells barely big enough to fit a human turned into tunnels storing wine and other things, including pigeons who nested there and provided food for the locals. Last century the citizens of Orvieto realized they couldn’t keep digging or else they would compromise the foundation of the town. We were both surprised at how cool the tour was, and I have to admit everyone on the tour got a laugh watching 6’4″ J. grapple with the small spaces.

Our last evening in Orvieto we ate in a restaurant where we could sit outside in a grape vine covered patio, with only a large Italian family next to us, celebrating. The candlelit patio was the perfect atmosphere to enjoy more wine and get lost in the quiet and romantic space. Followed with a walk through the town where children played in the Piazzas while parents and Grandparents caught up on conversation in the cool evening air, the night couldn’t have been more perfect.

I think people really miss out when they only take a day trip to Orvieto. There is so much to see in the surrounding area and to enjoy in the historical town. To miss it is to miss the true Italy.

The Quiet Beauty of Assisi Italy

One of my favorite things about traveling the world is the arrival in each new place. I love the surprise when we step off the train/airplane/boat or out of an automobile. It is a whole new world just waiting for me to discover it, to peel back the layers and find the truths and beauties. The air smells different, the vibe feels different and the architecture always varies. My senses heighten and I am full of wonder, like a kid discovering something new.

In some locations I have expectations or ideas of what it will be like when we arrive because of pictures or blog posts from other travelers. With Assisi it was completely surprising. As we stepped out of the train station I was surprised to see a city on top of a hill in the middle of the Italian countryside, with a castle perched a top the hill overlooking the city and the land below. I am not sure what I expected but this wasn’t it. It looked regal and protected from progress and modernity. As our taxi drove us up to the hill where we were to stay for two days I became more and more surprised. The open countryside was giving way to tree lined roads, old stone houses and walls protecting an ancient city above.

Entering in through one of the old stone gates was like turning the clock back hundreds of years. There are not many cars allowed in the town so our taxi drove us through the closest square and up to our Airbnb (which had the smallest & cutest kitchen ever). Each building was made from old stones to coordinate with the cobblestone streets creating a cohesive atmosphere.

Assisi is full of history most of which is located in Piazza del Commune, Rocca Maggiorie (the 14th century castle) or the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi. We chose to eat dinner in the Piazza del Commune, on a balcony overlooking the Piazza with its beautiful fountain and lively atmosphere. There is a feeling here that you are overseeing the rest of the world, almost as its keeper. It is easy to understand why people chose this hill to build a town where they could protect themselves.

Our first day we headed over to the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi. We walked the short distance from our apartment (Assisi is a very small town so walking anywhere takes no more than 15 minutes). Assisi is hilly so be prepared for a little leg workout. I loved walking the small streets, checking out the local shops and amazing bakeries. The window displays were all so tempting I almost ate my way to the Basilica. Before I tell you about the Basilica I have to preface the story with the fact that J and I have seen so many churches in our travels if we are not careful we can be very nonchalant about them. It is hard to impress or move us (one of the reasons you MUST see La Sagrada Familia since it knocked us off our feet.) When you reach the corner of the intersection where the town gives way to the Basilica it is sensory overload.In front of you lies the gorgeous church watched over by the impressive and inspiring statue of St. Francis of Assisi. Behind you lies the old stone town represented on this corner by a picturesque restaurant with red flowers dripping from window boxes. The Basilica serves as a gateway to the Italian countryside below, laid out like a quilt of different colors and textures.

Entering the Basilica is an immediate rush of awe and calm. There is a feeling in this church that is missing from most that we have toured. It feels calming, spiritual, accepting and forgiving all at the same time. The intensity of the ceiling and wall details is almost overwhelming. It is hard to comprehend the amount of work put into the frescoes detailing scenes from St. Francis’ life as well as all of the other details in this Basilica, and how well they were done to have survived since the 13th century. The lower level of the Basilica contains the grave of St. Francis. As I made my way down the stairs I was moved by the number of nuns there to pray at the grave of this gracious man. Their reverence for all that St. Francis stood for was evident as they knelt before his grave and prayed.

The Basilica also displays some incredible art and sculpture collected and gifted over the past 700 years. It is also home to the tunic worn by St. Francis. I really didn’t think it would be a big deal to see this, but honestly it was very impressive. I suppose after reading all that he did, believed and sacrificed the tunic represented all of these things in such a simple and humble way.

On our second day we spent a leisurely morning in the Piazza del Commune before heading over to the Roman Forum Museum located under the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. (It can be tricky to find this little treasure so don’t give up, it is hidden under the Piazza.) When we entered the museum we were immediately impressed with the pre-Roman treasures hidden within the ancient brick walls. There were capitals of columns, carvings, and statues all of which used to make up the Forum which was located in what is now the Piazza del Commune. As we made our way up the hallway we started to see what would have been the old Forum, the walls, stairs, and columns which would have supported the Forum. There are really interesting movies (they are in Italian) which show what the Forum would have looked like and some of the process of excavating the area which is now the museum. As we walked deeper into the space it felt as if history was unfolding before us. The structure started to take shape as well as the life that would have taken place around it. The romance of pre-Roman times always gets me, and the museum surprised me in how much it brought that history to life.

We wandered the streets the rest of the day, stopping to see an art exhibit, feed a hurt bird and take pictures of the gorgeous countryside surrounding us. The wonderful thing about Assisi is all of the quaint places tucked away down old cobblestone streets. It is full of romance and the Italy that has captured hearts for centuries. The warm hospitality of the Italian people was evident as we ate dinner in a little restaurant tucked away at the end of a little street. We were spoiled with excellent service, great local food and the owners and their family trying to coax their cat off the adjacent stone wall.

Assisi surprised us both. As we left it felt a bit like leaving home.

Falling In Love With San Marino

Somewhere along our eight month journey we decided we wanted to see as many countries as possible without sacrificing time spent in each country. I started researching other countries we could visit and stumbled upon the very tiny country of San Marino. Since we were going to be in the area in Italy we decided to spend a few days there.

San Marino is one of the oldest Republics in the world, founded in AD 301. It is one of the five smallest countries in the world with a population of slightly more than 33,000 people and 24 square miles of space. What this country lacks in size it makes up for in beauty. The historic area of SanMarino sits atop a huge limestone mass. Rising from this huge mass stand the Three Towers, or three castles, majestically overlooking the surrounding countryside which lead to the Adriatic Sea. San Marino is completely surrounded by Italy which makes it easy to travel to. Most people hop into San Marino for a day but I decided I wanted to stay for two so we would have plenty of time to see the area and relax.

We took the train from Ravenna to Rimini and then caught a bus from Rimini to San Marino. This was pretty easy aside from the boarding of the bus, which is basically a stampede of people trying to occupy the same place at the same time to get seats. J and I anticipated this having spent time in Italy before so J strategized how best to get us on the best, and in seats without getting squashed or making anyone mad. It is quite the scene and not an easy feat. Once on the bus with all limbs in tact we rode in comfort through the beautiful countryside and up Monte Titano to the historical district of San Marino. One of the only mishaps in our travels happened once we arrived. I had not realized our hotel was outside the city and almost impossible to access from the downtown area of San Marino. Luckily my limited Italian and the help of a very kind woman at the bus stop landed us a cab about an hour after our arrival. I can honestly say that we were a bit stressed here and were relying on our “everything will work out” philosophy to hold back our grumpy or worry.

Of course everything did work out and we arrived in a tiny town of about 300 residents sitting at the base of Monte Titano, the large mass of historic San Marino. The one main street allows one way traffic from the beginning of town down the three blocks to the only coffee shop, a beautiful lookout and the bus stop. Along this road,nestled between old stone homes was our adorable hotel with the most amazing management. Everyone was shocked we arrived without a car, and I would have to say I would not recommend this. The managers were so accommodating, helping us get around whether with their cars or at the little bus stop in town.

Our first night in San Marino we in a very local restaurant, zero tourists, overlooking the valley of Italy. I am pretty sure they had to roll us out of there at the end of the night once we finished amazing pizza, wine, limoncello and desert. It was such a warm experience with a great family staff who made us laugh and treated us as family. I was quickly falling in love with this quaint little country.

The next day we sat at the little bus stop where a wonderful woman gave us free tickets to ride the bus. After waiting for a bit one of the owners came by and drove us up the hill and into the historic district. The ancient town is surrounded by walls built long ago to protect the country from their enemies. These walls have guaranteed the perfect preservation of the city, full of old stone buildings, cobblestone streets and the three towers which are almost perfectly preserved. We loved spending the day here, walking through the small town, touring the castles, and eating lunch with the amazing views only San Marino can offer.

Inside the castle walls are small outbuildings, armory, hundreds of years old murals, and beautiful little flower gardens. It was quite spectacular to stand at the top of the towers overlooking the other towers, the land below and the beautiful fall colors. I can only imagine how it was hundreds of years ago with the cold winds whipping through the towers as they watched the lands below for enemies trying to attack. There are a lot hills and fairly intimidating stairs to contend with when trekking from one castle to the other, so wear comfy shoes and take some water. It is worth all of it to experience the grandeur of the castles and the downtown of San Marino.

To get back to our hotel we had to get help from three different bus drivers, local business owners and some passing locals. Eventually though we hopped on the tiny bus to head back to our hotel. We shared the bus with one other rider and a driver who loved his music. It was a great experience to ride this way through the country of San Marino using our free tickets from the gracious woman we met that morning.

In the town we were staying there was only one coffeeshop/bar so we walked there to try to find something to eat rather than try to wrangle a ride back to the downtown for dinner. Here we shared one of my favorite drinks, watching the local men play cards and gossip, swapping tales with a woman staying in the area to get medical treatment for her husband, and watching a few of the local kids gather outside, to kick the soccer ball and chat like teenagers do. We felt so lucky to have discovered such an untouched and authentic town. The Italian generosity and culture abound here welcoming anyone into their country, feeding them well, and making sure they leave with amazing stories.

SaveSave

The Mosaic City of Ravenna

Years ago when we were in Italy we asked all of our Italian friends what cities we should visit in Italy. Each and every time our friends would tell us we had to visit Ravenna. They would tell us about the mosaics and promise we would be impressed by the craftsmanship, the art and the beauty. It is a big promise in a country where every town we visited impressed us.

When I was planning the month in Italy I couldn’t overlook Ravenna so I booked a few days there on our way from Venice to our last stop of Lucca. I was glad to have Ravenna to look forward to as I sadly boarded the train leaving Venice. (It is a 3 hour train ride from Venice to Ravenna or a 2 and a half hour drive.)

At first when we arrived and headed out to find an afternoon snack I was worried I had made a mistake. The town looked small and a bit unassuming, maybe the three days I had scheduled here were too much. We arrived during Riposo (or siesta) which meant all of the stores were closed and most people were at home. We found a nice place to get a snack and start to plan our visit. The thing about Ravenna is that it is easy to underestimate this quiet town because it so unassuming. However once you start exploring and researching you find there is a lot to see and do, and that no matter how many churches you have seen in your life you won’t be rushing through the incredible ones in Ravenna.

That night we headed out to a restaurant I had read about online, the tables were set out on a quaint street off of the main piazza. The walls were painted with a cute mural of all different people riding bikes. The tables lit with candles while we drank wine and watched people walk by. It was quite romantic and the food was absolutely delicious. We walked back home through the Piazza del Popolo amid the locals and tables full of people eating and drinking. I believe it was at this point I started my love affair with Ravenna.

The next morning we began our tour of the eight Byzantium UNESCO sites. I was prepared for beautiful ancient mosaics, but I honestly had no idea how incredibly moving they would be. The mosaics are made of tiny little tiles in vibrant colors including gold, each depicting gorgeous scenes from the bible. It was hard for me to comprehend how these buildings had survived since the 5th and 6th centuries. My favorites were the Basilica San Vitale which was not only filled with mosaic domes but huge slabs of the most amazing stones, and mosaic tile floors. I walked around the basilica so many times, not wanting to leave.

The Arian Baptistry was also incredible. The small building was completely filled with intricate mosaics including the disciples. We sat in the seats lining the walls of the baptistry studying each of mosaics individually and as a whole. I was completely entranced by their delicate beauty.

My other favorite is the most ancient building in Ravenna, the Neonian Baptistry, is filled with more intricate mosaics, filling the dome and entrancing everyone who enters. We spent a few hours in the National Museum, being blown away by the treasures within and another room of gorgeous mosaics.

When we weren’t touring the Byzantine buildings we spent our time walking through town checking out the great shopping, adorable boutiques and enjoying some of the best gelato we have ever eaten. We found the tomb of Dante Alighieri.

The people of Ravenna, are friendly, kind and incredibly proud of their city. They keep true to their Italian roots and are happy to share them with the few tourists who stay.

On our last night, as the rain drizzled down we spent the evening in a wine bar drinking in some great wine, and the beautiful city surrounding us. When you order wine at the bars they bring full plates of cheese and meats to enjoy so we made dinner out of the appetizers and watched the locals walking through the rain, arm in arm under umbrellas.

Ravenna is incredibly romantic, the way you envision an untouched Italian city to be. It was welcoming, and easy to get around on foot.

While a lot of blogs and guide books will tell you you can make Ravenna a day trip from Rome I think you will miss a lot if you don’t give Ravenna more than part of a day. I would recommend at least two days there.

2018 New Years Goals

Happy 2018!

2017 was an amazing year! I travelled for 8 months which was absolutely incredible. I visited places I had dreamed of seeing for most of my life, and experienced things that had dramatic and profound impacts on who I am. As I started to think about what goals I was going to set for 2018 I was a bit worried 2018 would not be able to stand up to 2017, but once I started to think about what I wanted 2018 to be I realized it was going to be just as amazing if not more so.

As a severe overachiever I have to put limits on my goals so I don’t drive myself insane trying to accomplish everything and then failing at most things. So my number of goals this year was capped at a total of 6.

Here are my goals for 2018:

Spend 10 months living in Lucca, Italy and traveling through new parts of Europe from there. (Currently J. and I are waiting for Visa approval from the Italian embassy, so keep your fingers crossed for us.)
Be 70% fluent in either Italian or Spanish. Currently I am about 35% fluent in Italian and about 25% in Spanish. (Of course if I can work on both then all the better!)
Get on a regular yoga and biking routine for 6 days a week. I am currently loving Hatha Yoga and have some pretty great goals for different poses I am working on.
Get an agent or publisher for my writing. This is a HUGE one for me. I have a couple of children’s board books ready to submit and an adult novel I am working on. I definitely don’t want to finish 2018 without some progress in my writing life.
Work more with other bloggers, resume my work with magazines and/or short story periodicals. Another HUGE one for me. I miss writing articles so I want that to be more of a part of my life. I also want to connect with more bloggers and start working together.(If you would like to work together, guest blog here or have me guest blog for you contact me through the blog or comment on this post.)
Travel with K. to Ireland, Germany and Italy. These are the three countries she wants to see as a 15-year-old this summer and I want to make this happen. It would be a highlight of my life for me to spend the time showing her around more of the world.

This is us together years ago, always an adventure!

I feel pretty confident about all of these being accomplished, with the help and blessing of the Italian government to achieve my #1 goal. My goal in life since I was 20 years old was to live in Italy, to realize this goal in 2018 will be a major accomplishment for me!

Looking back on 2017 I did pretty good on my goals, better than I have in other years. I wrote a few children’s books, traveled most of the year, worked hard on bettering my photography and growing my blog, and read ALOT (something I never had time to do when I owned my business), but I didn’t realize my career goals. In 2018 it is almost all about the career goals for me. I am ready for it!

What is your focus in 2018? Have you set goals for the year or do you just wing it?

Discovering Venice Italy

As I stood in the middle of the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)in Venice, surrounded by pigeons, tourists from all over the world, the bright Italian sun and the smells of pasta and cappuccino all I could hear was the song of the Italian language. It reverberated through my body, sinking into my bones, and welcoming me back. I was standing in Piazza San Marco in Venice as tears began to form in my eyes while pure joy ran through my veins. I had arrived back in the country that feels like home to me.

For ten years I have dreamt of returning to the country I love, and of standing back in this spot, under the four bronze horses, and the gold lion with the entire world swirling around me. It is different than when I was here before. Last time it was in January, it was practically deserted and I roamed the streets with J. with almost no one else around. We toured St. Marco’s church alone and stood in the Piazza with only ten other people around. It was magical. This time while surrounded by people, and waiting in line to get into the Basilica I realized that it is impossible for Venice to lose its magic whether there are a few or thousands moving around it.

It is important to me to stay present in the moment. In Piazza San Marco it was even more so. I didn’t want to lose this moment, it was the start of a month touring Italy, seeing places I had never seen, places that I couldn’t wait to get back to, and friends to spend time with after ten years apart. I didn’t want to lose the moment thinking about the crowds, the heat or the terrible case of vertigo I had developed after a massive allergy attack in France & Switzerland. Working for this moment for ten years was all that sometimes kept me going through the 70 hour work weeks, and the incredible stress, I didn’t want to take away from it. Unfortunately for J. this meant powering through the crowds as we slowly made our way to the water and the glorious views that define Venice. I believe I must have looked like a child discovering Disneyland with my head turned up towards the tops of the buildings and the incredible Italian sun. I walked in wonder and glory, after waiting for ten years the power of the moment made all of the colors more intense, the architecture more pronounced and the glistening water more welcoming.

For some reason whenever I am in this city I can’t help but think of the writers who have wandered these streets before me, entranced by the mystery and beauty that is Venice. I think it is easy to do this because Venice has not changed. The buildings, the monuments and the mode of transportation is the same as it has always been. The water lapping against the buildings and coursing through the neighborhoods is so unique and special that it demands appreciation. On most buildings you can physically see the struggle for survival with metal rods and anchors having been installed in the last 100 years to give them support and keep them from collapsing. Venice wears its history well and invites all visitors to discover it.

The goal for this visit to Venice was to see the things we had missed before. We started at St. Marco’s, even though it was a repeat, because I honestly think you could visit this church 10 times and never see everything, from the gorgeous mosaic floor to the gold mosaic ceiling every detail of this church is worth noting and admiring. (There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Marco’s Church!) The more than 500 columns in the building lead you through the church to an area behind the altar where the Pala d’Oro has been housed since it was created in 976 A. D. It has been expanded several times since then. The gold screen has 250 squares which house 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, along with rubies, topazes, and enameled figures of holy men and Jesus. It is an absolute marvel to see the intricate work of each stone, each enameled portrait, and the overwhelming gold. The piece is 9.8 feet wide by 6.6 feet tall. Standing before it I could think of nothing but the artists who spent their lives working on this piece. The care with which they created every square centimeter is evident as you notice the tiniest of intricacies, like the way the pearls rest as halos above mens heads. It is one of the most important works of Byzantine enamel in existence. While it costs a few euro more to see it, it is worth every penny. We kept trying to walk away from it and then found ourselves back to it because we realized we hadn’t seen even a fraction of it.

There is an upstairs area in the Church where you can step on to the balcony of St. Mark’s and look out over the magnificent Piazza The view from here is stunning. You see the entire piazza, the Doge’s Palace, the beautiful canal and the impressive buildings leading the canal into the bay. Touring upstairs you can learn more about the history of the church and get up close to the mosaics on the ceiling and walls. Standing next to the walls, seeing the pieces of mosaic which are smaller than a quarter and then looking up to see how many millions of them were carefully placed on every wall and ceiling to create the masterpieces that have survived here for thousands of years, it is impossible to not be moved. I can promise you that the detail, and beauty of the Basilica (church) will leave you breathless.

One of the best things to do in Venice is to wander. The architectural details on the buildings, the delicious food, gorgeous window displays in the stores and beautiful bridges never end, leading you from one place to the next. While it is easy to get overwhelmed by the crowds, if you get off the main streets when you need a break, you can continue your tour, and even spot some sights most people don’t see. This happened to us one day when we went across the Rialto bridge in search of Santa Maria della Salute. We found ourselves away from the heavy flow of people and in neighborhoods with the locals. We had lunch at restaurant where we were the only tourists, tucked away at the end of a brick walkway, running right along a small canal. It was absolutely perfect, and J. discovered the delicious treat of adding French fries to a pizza (due to a misunderstanding of our Italian speaking waitress). The getting lost was half the fun, the other half was in spotting architectural details and buildings we weren’t expecting and having the space to appreciate them. While it took the better part of the day, which we had not planned on, the discoveries made it worth the time we lost on our other plans.

Another day we decided to take the water bus from one end of the Grand Canal to the other. We really enjoyed this, especially since we were lucky enough to find seats on the outside of the boat. Sitting in the semi-circle in back of the boat with the wind rustling your hair as you move along the canal you have to fight to become overloaded by all of the activity, and sights. The Grand Canal is everything you think it will be. It is extremely romantic, lined on both sides with stunning buildings with antique glass windows cut in arches and balconies overlooking the canal. There are huge buildings which were once palaces filled with balconies and flowers and grand seating areas at ground level. Of course gondolas travel up and down the canal moving gracefully between the water buses, water taxis, and private boats. There is something so special in Venice which you can’t find anywhere else. If you take Line 1 it runs up and down the Grand Canal giving you a great visual of the city. We didn’t realize we were at the end and had to disembark at Lido which was not what we had expected but again turned out great. We had a delicious lunch in a beautiful restaurant sitting along the canal. From Lido you see the canal from a different perspective, instead of the homes leading you to the opening at the bay your eyes flow over the wide open bay to meet with huge churches and domed buildings atop of which are incredible metal sculptures. The massive expanse of the buildings were meant to impress and to show the importance of the city you are entering. As impressive as they are now I can only imagine what it was like to approach this city 200 years ago. While Lido is about 15 minutes outside of Venice on another little islet it is worth the ride out there not only to experience Venice from another vantage point but to experience the culture here without the crowds.

As you walk through the more tourist focused areas you will find Italian men outside of restaurants doing their best to convince you to eat at their establishment. They are pretty charming and quite fun to talk to. Many of them have elaborate verbal productions to coax you into their establishment, like promises of mama’s home recipes, or free Spritzes, or the best lasagna found in the world, it feels like an Egyptian market at times, all with the lightest of hearts, after all this is Italy. I prefer to eat off the beaten track if possible. The food tastes better and the experience is more genuine. We found a few places along the canal further away from San Marcos where each table was candlelit, the restaurants were small and the city lights made the perfect backdrop for good wine and conversation.

The Bridge of Sighs was high on my list of things to see. For some reason the story of how it got its name was so intriguing to me, I had to see it in person. The story goes that the name came from the purpose of the bridge. Men who were sentenced to jail had to cross the bridge on their way to prison. They called it the Bridge of Sighs because they said as the men walked over the bridge they would let out huge sighs as they took their last looks at Venice. I was overwhelmed by the imagery of standing on this white bridge, looking out over the city, not only realizing I would never see it again but that I would never be free again. Luckily our wanderings took us past it from many angles and I immediately understood.

The one thing I found disappointing was the Venice Casino. J loves to visit casinos in each country. With the grandeur of Venice he had high hopes for the casino. While the entrance was really cool with a stately courtyard and views of the Grand Canal the inside was a bit tired and underwhelming. We did get lucky at blackjack and roulette though, so J’s winning streak continues.

While leaving Venice is never easy for me I am so excited to visit the new cities we will see in Italy that it softens the blow as we take the water bus to the train station, stop for coffee and get ready to board our next train.

2 Days In Chambery, France

Visiting the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France is an absolute must. Stunning mountains, picturesque lakes and quaint towns make up this famous ski area. While the skiing in the area is supposed to be fantastic we found Chambery has a lot to offer in the summer as well.

As the train rolled towards the French Alps the landscape changes from green fields to glistening lakes, jagged mountains and quaint villages mixing French and Swiss architecture to create picture perfect buildings. After spending three and a half weeks traveling through the green fields of the French countryside I was elated to see the towering mountains against the beautiful blue French sky.

Chambery is a small town about two and a half hours from Turin, Italy. The Italian influence is felt in the food and the style of the squares. Knowing this ahead of time didn’t prepare me for almost every restaurant being Italian. I loved the French influence on Italian traditions, using different cheeses on the pizzas and pastas. The dishes in Chambery contained more salmon and shellfish, creme fraiche, and exotic mushrooms than we have experienced in Italy. The two cultures coming together in food made for some seriously great meals. We loved strolling through town to one of the small restaurants and enjoying a romantic dinner and wine and then strolling home in the cool evening air. People eat earlier here than in other parts of France so we found it was very important to be at the popular restaurants between 7:30 and 8:00. The early dinners make for a quiet town at night, perfect for strolling and walking off your wine from dinner.

Our first full day in Chambery we had breakfast in their most spectacular square, Place Saint-Léger. While it is a street and not technically a square it has that same feeling of an Italian or Spanish Piazza. The wide pedestrian filled, cobblestone street is filled with tables from the flanking restaurants and bars. The buildings are all unique with great architectural details, both French and Italian influenced, and multi-colored. The cafes and bars are more cutting edge in the drinks and food they serve than we have seen in the rest of France, which was a great change. After breakfast we walked through town and stumbled on a really cool medieval castle built into the side of a hill on the edge of town.

The Chateau des Ducs de Savoie was the home to Dukes and Lords for hundreds of years. There is a beautiful chapel with the most incredible faux painted ceiling I have seen. The chapel had gorgeous stained glass rising up to meet the incredible ceiling. The chapel was a beautiful mix of medieveal and modern. Evidently the Shroud of Jesus was held here for many years until they gave it to Turin where it is now kept. The chapel now houses a replica of the Shroud of Jesus. While parts of the Chateau date over 1,000 years old the majority of it was rebuilt through the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries due to fires, growth and architectural preference. We took a tour of the 14th and 15th century part of the castle, which was not offered in English so it made it a bit challenging to understand. The tours are offered almost everyday during the summer months. Inside the ticket office building there is an absolutely incredible display of the money used in this region over the years. It was a fascinating way to understand the transition of power and the collection holds hundreds of coins in perfect condition. They were found in the bowels of one of the buildings which allowed the perfect preservation. There is a 70-carillon of bells which are one of the largest ensembles in the world mounted outside of the chapel. Unfortunately they only ring them on the first and third Saturday of each month, which is supposed to sound really incredible.

Chambery is full of great shops all located in old buildings, most located in the fabulous old town area. There is a grand avenue with arched walkway, similar to that in Grenada, Spain, with a lot of shops. This avenue leads you to the famous 4 elephants monument. The monument was built for a general who returned from India with a mass of wealth which he bestowed on Chambery in public works and welfare.

Our second day in Chambery we walked over to the Musee des Beaux-Artes area. I loved this area, so open with grand buildings and gorgeous views of Mont Granier. We sat in the large square basking in the summer sun which seems to shine a little brighter here than anywhere else in France. There is a really nice park, the Parc du Clos Savoiroux, on the top of a hill overlooking the town and offering a spectacular of the surrounding mountains. The park is so peaceful with nice little stone sculptures, families picnicking on blankets and people on park benches enjoying the cool summer weather. The road from the Parc du Clos Savoiroux leads to the house where Jean-Jaques Rousseau lived with his mistress from 1736-1742.

Unfortunately for us we were in Chambery on a Sunday and Monday during August, the vacation month in France so most of the shops were closed as well as the museums. We still had a great time walking around the city and relaxing at the cafes. We didn’t find many people who speak english in Chambery but all of the people were so friendly and helpful.

During the winter months Chambery is full of people from all over Europe who come to ski the surrounding mountains and enjoy the winter landscape the French Alps have to offer. I imagine this gorgeous old city would be quite the place to see in the winter time. For me I loved it in the summer too. It was a great way to experience French culture, unchanged by tourism, and to appreciate the gorgeous variance of landscapes in the country.

Strasbourg France-A Must See City

If you are looking for a picture perfect town full of half-timber buildings, cobblestone streets, stunning cathedral and beautiful riverfront full of flowers then Strasbourg France is the town for you. The mixture of medieval and modern in this budding city add to its incredible charm. From the moment we arrived at the train station we were in love with Strasbourg. Riding through the streets in Strasbourg felt like taking a ride through old fairy tale stories. Each building and street were more picture perfect than the last.

We stayed in my absolute favorite Airbnb so far. Not only was it unique, comfortable and perfectly decorated but it was one block from the main square in Old Town Strasbourg. The location couldn’t have been more perfect.

As soon as we put our bags into the apartment I was dragging J. outside to see the town. I couldn’t wait to explore more of the enchanting town. A two minute walk brought us to an archway. When we entered it we instantly felt we had been transported back in time hundreds of years. The massive Gothic cathedral stands majestically in the center of the square. As impressive as it is, the surrounding half-timber buildings which house restaurants, small hotels and cafes fill the square with romance. We strolled through the square and down one of the old streets to find the river area. When it comes to perfect landscaping and floral design Strasbourg has it mastered, hands down. The planters hanging from the sides of the railings, running along the river were overflowing with gorgeous red, purple, yellow and white flowers. It was an explosion of color.

As we made our way back to the square music started making its way down the narrow streets. It was too beautiful to miss so we chose a cafe and sat down for a glass of Prosecco to listen to the music and people watch.

When you are in this region of France you have to eat in a Winstaub (an Alsatian tavern). They make incredible dishes (mostly meat based unfortunately for us vegetarians) using flavors special to the Alsace region of France. There is a ton of German influence here as well, with Germany being a short hour or so drive away. In fact in about 2 hours you can be in the Black Forest in Germany from Strasbourg. This was so tempting to me since I have always wanted to visit the Black Forest but instead we chose to spend our 4 days exploring Strasbourg and the towns around it.

One thing that makes Strasbourg so special is how it seamlessly transitions from the old town to a more modern area. As the town grew they held on to the charm by keeping outdoor eating areas, large squares for social gatherings and very walkable shopping. We spent our first full day in Strasbourg wandering from the old town area to Petite France. An old neighborhood which used to be home to tanneries and milleners. It is now filled with half-timber houses, winstaubs, cafes, christmas shops, and other tourist shops filled with gingerbread dolls. I don’t think it is possible to walk through this area and not feel like you are in the middle of an old movie. Everything is as it has always been.

We found a charming little shop that made incredible pasta and sauces which paired well with a recommended wine and voila, dinner! The tarte flambé was fantastic in Strasbourg as well. But nothing beat the delicious bakery treats and local chocolates. The coffee in Strasbourg is also some of the best I had in France, which was a welcome experience!

Wanting to explore the area we hopped on a train to Colmar one day. This short (40 minute) train ride is the perfect way to travel from one town to the next. The train is just a short walk outside of town, the path leading past an incredible Bretzel ( an Alsatian pretzel) shop that I couldn’t resist. The huge pretzel was covered in melted Asiago cheese. It melted in my mouth! Among the half-timber buildings, the cobbled streets, the adorable shops full of gingerbread men, Hansel & Gretel memorabilia, and other Alsatian treasures were chocolate shops, restaurants, cafes and winstaubs.

As we walked the streets, with a little river running through the middle in certain places, we couldn’t believe the beautiful flower boxes, artistically painted buildings, old scooters, and quaint little churches lining the streets. There is a river which runs past the city, similar to Strasbourg. This river is lined with colorful half-timber houses, which by law have to be painted a different color than any of its neighbors. This law creates the most perfect display of half-timber houses I have ever experienced. Colmar was so enchanting it feels as if the “real” world just melts away and you are left with the most perfect little village where problems are smaller and life is simpler. The people were all so friendly, beaming with pride for their beautiful town and incredibly helpful. We took a little train ride tour to get a sense of the history of the city, while I am not sure it was worth it, J. appreciated the break from walking and the opportunity to see some quirky buildings we probably would have missed otherwise.

Back in Strasbourg we shopped the street flea market, which happens on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It takes place just a few streets from the Cathedral (rue du Vieil Hôpital and place de la Grande-Boucherie). The sellers pack their tables and the areas surrounding their booths with antiques, quirky art and old books. Even if you aren’t shopping for anything it is fun to go and check out all of the treasures and awesome people. Grab a coffee and pastry across the street and spend the morning enjoying the atmosphere. On Saturday mornings you can find locals selling fruits and veggies too.

During the summer the city puts on a fabulous light show, the Illumination Cathederale de Strasbourg, on the side of the Notre Dame cathedral. It is free to everyone and shows twice a night. It varies every year but if you can make sure you catch it. It was incredible to see the lights play against the side of the gothic cathedral, which was incorporated into the performance. (This is a video of the moving performance.)

Another must is to see the astronomical clock. I had read that it was something we should see, but I really didn’t grasp how incredible it is. The current clock was built in 1843 and placed in the cathedral where it has been ever since. The astronomical clock offers a magnificent show of the different stages of life, which are personified by a child, a teenager, an adult and an old man, who pass before Death. Above this are the apostles who walk before Christ. There is a rooster who sings along with the Pillar of Angels who represent the Last Judgment. It is a stunning performance, especially when you consider the clock has been functioning perfectly since 1843. It accurately calculates Easter and Christmas every year, along with all of the other astronomical events. The tickets are 2 euro each, and you can start purchasing them at 11:30. The clocks show begins at 12:30. I underestimated the need to get there early to get a good spot to see the clock, so if your schedule allows get there as close to 11:30 as possible and grab a spot in front of the clock. There is a movie which shows before the clock goes off. The movie explains so much about the clock it would be a shame to miss it. Here is a great video of the clock as it strikes 12:30.

There are a lot of river tours which come into Strasbourg everyday. If you can plan your day around them, they tend to be heaviest from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. They fill the square to see Notre Dame and then move on to Petit France. It is best to get to dinner as the restaurants open as they tend to get pretty busy and finding a table in the best winstaub’s can be quite difficult. People move a little slower in the mornings in Strasbourg so don’t expect early breakfasts or coffees. It is all part of the relaxed atmosphere of the town. We enjoyed just walking through the neighborhoods, discovering new streets, shops and restaurants as we strolled. It is all worth seeing.

Take a few days in Strasbourg to experience the best France has to offer. Get swept away in the charm of what France was in Medieval times and how it elegantly has joined the old with the new.