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Seville: Tapas, Cathedrals and Long Walks

I had no idea what to expect in Seville. I was not prepared for the AMAZING cathedral, the adorable little restaurants and bars, the GORGEOUS Plaza de Espana, the pretty river walk and the Alcazar.

Seville was the first place we stayed in an actual Airbnb apartment. In Indonesia all the Airbnb’s were small hotels. We didn’t really know what to expect and as we schlepped our 110 pounds worth of luggage around for half an hour looking for the apartment we weren’t sure we were going to like the experience. That quickly changed though the minute we were escorted into our cute little apartment in the perfect location in historic Seville. We quickly realized one of the benefits of traveling Europe using Airbnb’s was going to be the space we had and that we felt more like locals and less like tourists.

Without really knowing much about Seville we headed out to find out why everyone says you have to put this Spanish destination on your must see list. The little streets that make up the historic center are all lined with quaint restaurants with small tables lining the sidewalks and yummy (for meat eaters) tapas plates. I quickly fell in love with Spanish Rioja wine as we sat down for a snack before we continued our exploration. I love the stucco architecture of the houses and all the unique details on the houses, churches and buildings. They make wandering so much more interesting.

The Seville Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, is absolutely huge. It stands in the middle of the city and completely takes your breath away. The incredible architecture, the massivity and the details are second to none in Spain. We got in line early in the morning (well early by Spanish time) and waited to get into the Cathedral. We had no idea what was waiting for us when we entered. The cost is 19 euro each which at first seems pretty steep for a Cathedral tour until you step inside and take in all there is to see. This UNESCO world heritage site is the largest Gothic structure in the world and also houses the largest altarpiece in the world. The altarpiece was the life’s work of one man who built 45 scenes of the life of Christ from wood and then covered them in an incredible amount of gold. As we sat before it, shimmering in the majesty of the craftsman who built it, we could do nothing but stare at the intricate and beautiful details. The cathedral was built in 1402 and took just over 100 years to complete. Pretty incredible for a a structure that is 11,520 square meters in total area.

There is a huge shrine which holds the remains of Christopher Columbus, a incredible treasury are full of paintings, beautiful silver, gold and jeweled pieces from the past 600 years, as well as some incredible cloaks and fabrics dating back hundreds of years. There is incredible architecture throughout with gothic ceilings and an incredible walk up to the tower where the bells gloriously chime the time. When the cathedral was designed they made the decision to maintain some of the old mosque which can be seen at different entrances. The interior and exterior structure is so intricate and stunning. We ended up spending over 2 hours just in this one church (and we move quickly)! Each day as we passed the cathedral we saw new things we had never seen before, there is too much to take in. Outside of the cathedral, surrounded by restaurants and horse drawn carriages we were lucky enough to hear locals playing violins, cellos and base at night, completing an already perfect atmosphere.

Situated across the piazza is the Royal Alcazar. The Alcazar was built in the 1360’s as a Royal Palace. The size and incredible architecture were almost overwhelming. The intricate moorish designs with tile work, a gold dome representing heaven, stunning gardens, fountains and outdoor pools with statuary. Walking through the gardens, full of blooming flowers, peacocks, artists and small statues was a peaceful reprieve from the bustling city outside. It also gave our eyes a bit of a break from the intricacies of the tile work and ornate paintings inside. In a few of the rooms I felt a little overwhelmed by tourists but a quick few steps to another room with gorgeous glass doors leading out to the vine covered walkways quickly gave me space.

As amazing as these two sites were my absolute favorite was the Plaza de Espana. Perhaps I was so enthralled because I had no idea what I was going to see, or perhaps just because it an incredible space. We walked from the Alcazar to the Plaza which is a nice walk, you can go through the gardens or the city streets. When we arrived I was shocked at the feeling of being in a little Venice. The pool in front with people on small rented boats create a feeling of being in another time. The brick and ceramic building, walls and bridges are absolutely stunning. As we walked through the covered walkways of the building I was constantly marveling at the craftsmanship on the ceilings, the exterior and the bridges. The arches decorated with ceramics were like nothing I had seen before. Yes, there are the street vendors selling fans and other souvenirs but they somehow seem to enhance the very special atmosphere here. Towards the end of the semi-circular building we were so lucky to find a man playing beautiful music on his guitar. We sat for a while, listening and soaking in the beauty of this little treasure in Seville. It was a very romantic place for me, relaxing, removed and quaint.

Seville proved to be a pretty tough place for me, as a vegetarian, to eat. It is worth getting off of the main streets and finding more authentic restaurants where the choices are a bit more varied. I relied heavily on protein powder and fruit stands here to survive. (After all there is only so much Patatas Bravas I can eat.)

Seville is an extremely walkable town, it is really safe, and the Spanish locals are so friendly and helpful. Be prepared to be amazed here, and give yourself time to really enjoy the sights, they are so special. We loved walking around and just getting lost in the little neighborhoods. We found incredible antique ceramic shops, stores with locally made leather belts, boots & purses, as well as unique jewelry and clothing. There are many day trips you can take from Seville but honestly we found so much to do there in our 5 day visit that we never left.

Malaga, Costa Del Sol

So many people over the years have told us we have to see the Costa Del Sol in Spain. So, we added it to our agenda, but picked a lesser known city, Malaga. While still a bigger city with a decent amount of tourists it was supposed to have maintained its culture and not be overrun with big hotel chains and restaurants. This, if you don’t know by now, is the way we prefer to travel. While we are tourists we like to blend into a community as much as possible and experience as much of the local culture as we can. In Malaga we really felt this was not a problem despite its popularity.

The city didn’t disappoint at all! We stayed in an airbnb across the river from the historic center which was a perfect option, it was quiet but super close to everything. We spent the entire tour here on foot, which was amazing. The Costa Del Sol sky was an absolute perfect blue with a bright shining sun, and never a cloud in the sky. It rose around 7:00 am and set around 10:30 pm. It was amazing. The sunny days and nights electrify this vibrant city where there is a constant joyous energy from the locals. We fell immediately into the vibe and loved it.

The pedestrian streets in the historic center are paved in white granite circles or octagons. They practically glow under the intense sunny sky, creating an atmosphere we have never experienced before. It felt clean, vibrant and almost like a hotel in Las Vegas, as bad as that analogy sounds. It was just so perfect it seemed it had to be fake.

We spent a lot of time walking around the shops and streets of Malaga, taking naps during Siesta, drinking Sangria, wine or beer and staying out until midnight like the locals. It was a rough time…okay, it was a tremendous amount of fun. During dinner at night the streets would fill with people all drinking, smoking, eating and laughing. People would be playing music in the streets creating an atmosphere that is hard to find.

Malaga has an incredible car museum where we spent hours looking at cars from the early 1900’s through the 1960’s. There were cars which belonged to Kings, movie stars, and even presidents. With each car were designer outfits of the time so a little for me and a little for J. I can tell you it is one of the best auto museums we have ever visited. Definitely worth a few hours to see cars you will likely never see anywhere else in the world.

The beach and port area were not our favorite. While they have done a great job with the buildings in the port area it just felt empty and cold to us in contrast to the warm and vibrant historic center. We did ride the largest ferris wheel in Europe in Malaga. It was cool to see the city from that perspective and to enjoy the gorgeous sky contrasting against the white ferris wheel.

One night we were able to catch a flamenco concert outside of the ancient Roman theater. The three singers, one of whom is considered to be one of the best in the history of flamenco, were absolutely incredible. Their intensity was electrifying. Of course in true Spanish form everyone was seated in the portable seats with cocktail and cigarette in hand while the sky darkened and the dancers hit the stage. If you have never seen a flamenco concert. Do! The miraculous and intense movement of the dancers is truly a sight to behold. The crowd was mesmerized as they moved across the stage expressing the intensity of emotion of each song. (Of course the background of the ancient theater and the ancient castle didn’t hurt either!)

We did hike up to the Castle de Gibrafalor in Malaga which was kind of a letdown after the Alhambra in Granada. The views of the city were pretty cool from the top though, along with some of the details of their ancient gutter systems and architecture.

Eating here was tough being a vegetarian. Everything is fish, or some form of ham. So beware veggies and bring protein powder and learn to love Spanish omelettes (eggs & potatoes) and Patas Bravas. Definitely drink some Sangria and sit outside at one of the many restaurants, it is some of the best people watching around.

One of the locals described the atmosphere in Malaga much better than I can. She said that they live their lives outside. For that reason they are very social, very active and relaxed. She said the weather is almost always perfect giving them a vibrancy and warmth hard to find anywhere else in the world. We felt this the moment we stepped into the city. The friendly, open and energetic energy will be unforgettable for us.

Granada On A Whim

Have you every visited a place that immediately felt like home when you got there? You had no explanation for why but you just knew you could settle in and stay for a long time? This is Granada Spain for me. It completely took me by surprise since I picked it on a last minute whim when a friend recommended we visit. Since we were leaving Morocco early I decided to spend the extra 4 days in Granada.

With 4 days extra on our journey, after leaving Morocco early, we headed to Granada, by boat, train and bus. It is one of the best decisions we made on our trip.

As the taxi pulled into the town, from the bus station, immediately I felt all of the stress of Morocco leave me. The gorgeous buildings, piazzas, churches and people sitting in cafe’s eating, drinking and laughing made me feel instantly at home. There were a lot of ooh’s and aaah’s as we rode through the city, pulled in by the huge cathedral, and stately Alhambra beckoning from the hill. I didn’t have a lot of time to research Granada so the architecture and landscape completely blew me away.

All through the historic area of town there are Piazza’s filled with people, restaurants, bars, concerts, and art exhibits. It was easy to walk through the whole historic area, as well as the sites that surround the city, perfection. Walking and exploring felt like a freedom to me now, after being in a country where I couldn’t do that easily. So, for the next four days I walked as much as possible, all in short skirts, shorts, tank tops and sundresses. It felt good to be myself again.

The city of Granada, with a population of about 240,000 people, feels like a small town. We stayed in the historic downtown area, surrounded by beautiful old buildings, fountains, brick & cobblestone sidewalks, and narrow streets.

Our first day we explored the Granada Cathedral. This glorious cathedral commands your attention as it stands majestically in the middle of modern life in Granada. Nustled into a Piazza it is just as stunning from the inside as it is from the outside. The cathedral is surrounded by local artisans, people selling spices, tourists and restaurants, and yet the moment you approach it you hear and see nothing else. Construction of this church began in 1523. Nothing was spared when creating this church full of gold ornaments, amazing matching organs, artwork, artfully decorated domed ceilings, and astounding stained glass windows. The cathedral is one of the finest examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture in the country. There is also a great deal of gothic architecture to be found here, making the church an even rarer piece of architectural history.

I have seen a lot of churches in my time but this one really did take my breath away. It was so grand, and elegant. The paintings each so incredible, the doors and wood work were magnificent. Then there are the two matching organs which sent in the center of the cathedral. They were grandly designed and built to call attention to the beautiful music they must have created.

I wanted to see the city of Sacramonte, which is tucked into the hills of Granada. With map in hand we headed up the Carrera del Darro not realizing we were embarking on one of the most romantic walks in Spain. The quaint road runs along the river, gradually leading you up the hill to the quaint little town of Sacramonte. The street is lined with cafes, old stone walls, and views of amazing stone houses. It is a peaceful street, away from the bustling life of Granada. As we walked along we picked out houses we would easily live in or rehab to bring back to life.

At the top of the hill we were met with Sacramonte. This little town first started with the gypsies who settled there in the 1800’s first living in caves in the hills. While there are still gypsies living in caves in Sacramonte there are also adorable white houses and restaurants which overlook the Valparaiso Valley, the River Darro, the Alhmabra and the city of Granada. We walked the small streets taking in the white homes decorated with ceramics and beautiful flower boxes. From there it was my goal to make it to the Albayzin, however after hopping on the wrong bus we ended up down the hill in downtown Granada. A quick regroup, and taxi ride and we were in the Albayzin.

The Albayzin is an ancient Arab quarter situated between the Sacramonte and the Alhambra. It was built like a Moroccan medina with tiny alleys, winding around the hilltop. The views of the city were stunning from the top. We walked through the narrow streets, checking out the cute little homes, the gernaium filled flower boxes, the stone walkways, the Mosque and the squares with restaurants. While there wasn’t a lot to see here it was worth the trip up the hill for the views and the experience of ancient medina life. From here we walked down the Alcaiceria area where it felt like stepping back into a Moroccan souk, without the high pressure sales.

I was celebrating my birthday this week and was so pleased to be here. We went from square to square listening to live music, whether it was groups of students, opera singers, or an amazing Tina Turner cover band. It was so much fun to drink Sangria and watch people dancing in the squares and the streets. The perfect way to start my birthday.

I wanted to spend my birthday in the Alhambra and Generalife. I had no idea how hard it was to get tickets, so I consider us very lucky to have found a tour group with two tickets left. The Alhambra & Generalife is an amazing tour. On the top of the hill overlooking Granada is the ancient palace from the Arab rule of Granada. The palace is an Arabic archictectural delight with beautiful details, gardens and stories. Luckily it was beautifully preserved by the Spanish King & Queen when they took it over. The peace and history here, with intact architecture displaying the culture and lifestyle of the time is absolutely gorgeous and enlightening. The forward thinking architecture of the King and his son created some of the most beautiful design we have seen yet. As we stood in the Generalife (the gardens) looking out over Granada, watching the heavy rain clouds roll in, we couldn’t help but imagine ourselves there at the time it was built.

Every night we had so much fun stopping at the bars, ordering Sangria and watching the world go by. (When you order a drink you are served a free tapa to enjoy, while they were mostly meat several places brought me a veggie option-so awesome!). The locals stay out late, usually bustling about while we headed to bed at midnight. They rise late with most of the city not starting to stir until 10 or 11. Everything closes for several hours in the afternoon which we used to rest and get ready for another night of fun.

While wandering the streets during the day (what J. calls A&W-ing, aimless walking) we found great little treasures within the historic part of the city. Our favorite was the Saint Jerome Monastery. It was so elegant and quaint with beautiful craftsmanship, orange tree walkways and an elegant courtyard with gravestones and beautiful carvings.

As a vegetarian Granada is a little tough. I ate a lot of cheese, and have to confess deeply enjoyed the churros with chocolate which should not be missed! Most of the tapas are meat based but I did find some places that offered a few things (grilled cheese, spanish omelette or an occasional salad).

It was a sad day when we had to say good-bye to Granada. It felt like home to us and we hope to return one day for a much longer stay. The Spanish people are so friendly, talkative and helpful. They create a warm and welcoming environment you probably won’t want to leave either.

Do’s and Dont’s When Traveling In Morocco

Do:

Remember this is a Muslim country. Be respectful in the way you dress, trying to cover your shoulders and knees if you are a woman .
Hire a guide or tour group to take you through the medinas. The knowledge and experience you will gain are well worth it.
In Marrakech make sure you agree on a price for a taxi ride before you get in the taxi.
Negotiate if you are buying anything. They expect this and it is all part of the experience of shopping in the souks and markets.
Respect their culture, their prayer times and their mosques. They are not tourist centers they are holy places of prayer. There is only one mosque we know of where you can enter as a non-Muslim and that is in Casablanca and only at certain times of the day.
Know that the government has zero tolerance for any violence against tourists. If someone threatens you or hurts you make sure to tell the police. They will enforce the law to protect tourists to the fullest extent.
Know you will get called names like “Angry tourist” or “Unhappy tourist” if you say No to some people try not to take it personally and just move on.
Embrace the culture, eat the yummy tagines, drink the AMAZING mint tea, enjoy the hospitality of many of the people, it is an incredibly unique experience.
Trust your gut.
Be firm with your No’s. It is not necessary to be rude just firm. After a few firm No’s most people will leave you alone.
Go to the desert. I can’t stress enough what an otherworldly experience this was for us!

Don’t:

Go out into the medina at night.
Get lost in the medina unless you are not bothered with people approaching you, following you, or tricking you into following them.
Follow anyone you don’t know. They will expect money, no matter how kind they seem.
Take pictures of anyone without asking their permission. They will possibly want money if they allow you to take a picture. I took pictures of alleys and streets and twice someone tried to demand money from me, this is a scam.
Let women start putting henna on you without your permission, or monkeys on your shoulders etc. They will tell you it is just for fun but they will demand money afterwards. It can get a bit aggressive.

Things to Know:

The official guides make commission when you purchase things from the stores or stalls in the souks. They also make commission for your meals. If you do not want to buy things be clear with them upfront and consider giving them a little extra tip to compensate for the loss in commission.
As a woman there is no way I felt comfortable enough anywhere to go out alone. I am a very seasoned traveler, and adventurous woman but there was no way I wanted to be alone. The riad managers all advised me to never go out by myself.
We never felt endangered in Morocco. However we did feel harassed, disrespected and poorly treated by many people. Many people seem to be territorial of their neighborhoods and would prefer tourists to stay in the “tourist attractions”. Be mindful if you are walking, this is their home where they live their daily lives.
While many of the products are still handmade in Morocco there are many things imported into Morocco now from China. If you want to buy something genuinely Moroccan ask first to make sure it is made there. You can also tell by the price and generally the quality as well.
If you travel during Ramadan know that the Moroccan people do not expect you to follow their fasting tradition, however we tried to not walk around drinking or eating things, they get pretty hungry and thirsty so I felt like it was a bit cruel to walk around eating and drinking.
If you drive yourself it is quite common for the police to have checkpoints set up. If they find you speeding or not wearing your seat belt it is customary for them to try to get you to pay them on the spot. Our drivers all said that is the easiest way, and much cheaper than paying in court.
We found many kind and wonderful people in Morocco. People willing to help us find where we were going, or make sure we experienced the best of Morocco, trust your instincts on who you can and can’t trust. If they are males between the age of 16 & 30 be cautious of them wanting money when it seems they are helping you.
The medinas are made up of tiny streets and alleyways with few, if any, street signs. If you decide to venture out on your own it isn’t like any other place in the world and even the best sense of direction can fail you in the maze of the medina.

The Blue City of Chefchaouen

The city of Chefchaouen, the blue city, was supposed to be the highlight of our trip. I had dreamed of wandering the streets of this medina with its beautiful blue buildings set in the Moroccan Rif mountains. It was the light for me when things were tough in other cities as the people in Chefchaouen are supposed to be very laid back, credited to the large volume of marijuana grown and smoked in the area.

To get there from Fez we chose to travel with a driver so we could stop in the city of Volubilis to see the ancient Roman ruins. The town of ruins is set on a hilltop, off of the main road. It is home to amazing mosaics, statuary and some pretty grand arches. All around are rolling hills and open spaces. It was founded in the 3rd century B.C..

After our stop here we were on to the town of Chefchaouen. The approach to the city is phenomenal. It is tucked in between two large mountains, which offer the most incredible views at night. This also makes Chefchaouen a very hilly medina.

The drive into town was total chaos with the market going on. Cars were squeezed into the two lanes of traffic narrowly missing one another as each of us tried to reach our destination. The fruits and vegetables arranged in each stall offering a colorful path into the blue city.

When we started our walk into the city we were immediately mesmerized by the vibrant tones of blue painted on each home and running into the streets. Shop owners display rugs, clothing, bags and souvenirs along the blue walls making the whole area look like a colorful painting. Our riad was the most rustic one we stayed in with a room so tiny we could only open our suitcases one at a time. At night as we sat on the rooftop terrace the mountains came to light as the sun lowered. By late evening they appeared to be like a movie set, majestically standing against the dark night sky lit only by the moon above. I have never seen anything like this in my life.

Our first full day in town we visited the beautiful Casbah, and for the first time in Morocco were able to sit in a square, eat, drink, shop and relax without anyone approaching us. The people were extremely laid back. It was like a breath of fresh air. Some of the buildings outside the medina are decorated with beautiful blue toned mosaics and decorative brick work. When you are standing at the top of the medina you have the most amazing view of the blue buildings as they rise into the mountains.

We found a hotel close by which actually served beer, so we relaxed on their terrace to watch the sun set. We felt totally safe roaming around Chefchaoeun looking at the beautiful architecture and alleyways.

Unfortunately after an incident in our riad, where someone walked into our room in the middle of the night while we were sleeping. When we said we wanted to leave early because we didn’t feel safe there the manager completely lost it. This was it for us. We had had enough of Morocco and decided to leave early to go to Spain. I was sad that it had worked out this way but a bit relieved we didn’t have to be on edge any longer.

We left Morocco by ferry from Tangier Med. It was a beautiful trip, at one point we could see both Spain and Morocco from our boat deck. It was sad to leave the place I had dreamed of for so long with a bad taste in my mouth. I quickly decided to leave the bad feelings behind and focus on the great people we met and things we were able to see.

If you are interested in traveling to Morocco check out my post about the Do’s, Don’ts and Things To Know.

Touring Ancient Fez, Morocco

Our drive to Fez was just as beautiful as our other drives. Instead of desert and stone mountains we experienced mountains covered in evergreens, valleys full of sheep and shepherds, and towns which looked like Swiss villages. The views were just as spectacular as the views from Merzouga, making our journey even longer due to all the stops for photo ops. We stopped in a valley with a little pond, roaming sheep and a small nomad camp. The minute we got out of the van to take pictures four nomad children started running from the camp, down the road to greet us. They were asking for money and once we gave them a little they invited us to tea in their tent, which unfortunately we did not have time to accept. While our driver was talking to them one of the girls was looking at me and asked me to give her my sunglasses. When I told her I could not she looked me up and down to see if there was anything else she wanted. I tried to think of something else I had to give her but we seemed to agree silently that there was not. They let us take their picture and then they were on their way back to camp to run in the beautiful valley.

We approached Fez with trepidation after our experience in Marrakech. Again we were staying in the old medina and didn’t know what to expect. We were determined not to let that experience influence our experience in Fez. As we approached the old medina the traffic was quite heavy, yet a man on a scooter managed to pull up next to our van and ask our driver to set him up as our guide. We politely refused thinking he would leave it at that. However, he did not. He proceeded to follow us, yelling in the window and trying to find out where we were staying. Eventually, after many attempts, and tapping of our windows at red lights he gave up and moved on. This made all of us, including our driver, a bit uncomfortable. We shook it off as just a crazy guy looking for work.

Once again we were staying in a very nice riad, which was good because we ended up spending a great deal of time inside due to 106 degree weather or just being tired of saying “No” to young men. On our first morning we met a great American family and all of us went with the hotel manager to the souk to shop. The family was tired of being harassed and didn’t want to shop alone. It was a fun morning. We were told stories of how the manager (a woman) had been so harassed by a shop owner who was angry she was standing in his doorway that he started an argument with her, then other men gathered around her until she had to call her husband to help her out of the situation (she is a Moroccan woman). This, along with warnings that people were very edgy from giving up drugs and cigarettes during the day for Ramadan, enforced the idea we needed a guide to learn the layout of the city.

Again this turned out to be an excellent decision. Our guide was so knowledgeable and friendly. We experienced the city with him in a way we never could have on our own. He showed us the oldest University in the world, University Al Karouin, founded in 859 by a woman, Fatima Al-Fihri, which was quite beautiful with intricate tile, wood and plaster work. The story goes that the King at the time made it so beautiful to teach the people of Fez a lesson. He had married a woman who was either a prostitute or some kind of dancer. The people didn’t approve. So he refurbished the University in such a beautiful way, spending a great deal of money, that the people were in awe. Afterwards he told the people, You see everything has the ability to be grand and beautiful. It was a lesson to teach them to give his wife a chance.

We visited the food markets with our guide who helped us have an amazing experience. The market was an incredible experience with beautiful fruits, nuts and other food. The people overall were very kind and eager to help us understand what different foods were. I had to break down and get water, which we tried never to drink in public out of respect, while standing in the market an older man came and tried to hit the water out of my arm shaking his finger at me because it was Ramadan. This was very unusual. The Moroccans were normally very tolerant of the non-muslims eating and drinking during the day.

One of the things we loved in Fez was how tiny some of the 9,000 alleyways were, some requiring us to bend down to walk through, and some of them being so narrow J. could barely fit through them. In Fez there are so many artisans still making jewelry, large metal objects, sewing (all done by the men), and wood work in small shops along the alleyways. They were so proud to show us their work and many of them were happy to allow us to take their pictures without paying them. (Always ask first in Morocco, it is very disrespectful not to.)

On the first day J. went out on his own to buy a few things. There were men on the street who yelled at him to get back in his hotel where he belonged. Later that day we went out and were harassed by young men. We went back to the hotel and the manager went out, yelled at them to leave us alone and they did for the rest of our time there.

We found delicious food at two restaurants near our Riad (The Ruined Garden & Fez Cafe) where we ate most of our meals. They were both set in garden areas inside of old Riads.

We found the souk and the market to be a much easier place to be than in Marrakech. The people did not harass us to buy from them, they allowed us to look in peace at the shoes, clothes, jewelry, leather goods and amazing silver pieces. They did not say anything to us when we were walking around. There were still the guys who would follow tourists around harassing them to let them be guides or show them how to get somewhere but they were much less aggressive than in Marrakech.

In one square famous for being the place where students and writers would come to work J. was helping some men push a large metal pot and our guide was approached by a very funny man who asked how many camels it would take to buy me as his wife.

One day we toured a ceramic co-op outside of the medina. Here there are people making ceramic dishes, mosaic pieces, hand painting and selling items. To watch them hand paint the tiles and ceramic pieces freehand using only a small brush was absolutely incredible. There were several rooms with men sitting on the floors piecing together gorgeous mosaic pieces following hand drawn patterns on large boards. It was stunning to watch how beautifully and perfectly they worked.

We spent a lot of time talking to our guide about Muslim extremists, Islam and the Quran. He told us in the Quran there is a passage which states that Muslims are to protect and be kind to the people of the books (meaning the Quran and the Bible). They are just as sad as we are that there is such a strain on understanding of the true teachings of the Quran.

The architecture of the city never disappointed. We spent some time in antique shops, which just blew our minds. The old doors, mosaics, silver pieces and furniture were so exceptional. It was truly the first time it broke my heart not to have a home to ship things to. It is absolutely incredible to walk down the streets and find men crafting huge wood doors as they did hundreds of years ago, using hand tools, creativity and hard work, in small workshops tucked into small streets and alleways. There is no way to describe the wonder of these discoveries.

While we found the medina in Fez to be quite intimidating the people overall were much kinder and gentler than in Marrakech. I felt lucky to be there during Ramadan so we were able to walk through the market and the souk without being crowded by tourists.

This is a window in the medina. It is designed this way so women could look out without being seen. This allowed them to not have to cover up while in their homes.

If you are traveling to Morocco or even just dreaming about it check out my post on the Do’s, Dont’s and Things to Know.

Merzouga and the Sahara Desert

As I sat in the back of our drivers car, staring out at the flat desert landscape, listening to Arabic music through the car speakers I wondered about all of the stories and events these lands must have seen. There is a certain mystique in the desert, like things happen there but they are all secrets kept in the sand.

Some of the things that have happened are dinosaurs. We were lucky that the dinosaur museum, complete with a huge dinosaur outside was open during Ramadan daytime hours. As we toured this museum we were in awe of the millions of years old specimens and bones they had neatly displayed. I have never held anything in my hands that are over a million years old let alone tens of millions of years. It was really impressive and incredibly fascinating.

When we walked out of the museum the dry desert heat felt as though it was suffocating me. It became laborious to breathe as the heat pressed on my lungs and my body slowly stealing all of the liquid out of my body. I became instantly thirsty (which was a problem since we were trying not to drink water in front of our drivers because it was Ramadan). I don’t get hot easily, in fact 85 degrees is about perfect temperature for me. This was different, it wasn’t even heat it was forces of dry air mixed with heat attacking my body and resources. Immediately I understood why no one was out of their house during Ramadan, with no access to water it wouldn’t take long for a person to be in trouble.

The last 20 minutes we drove without passing a person, a car, or any sign of life. The gates of Merzouga greeted us with the same slightly unsettling stillness. The town showed no sign of life or movement aside from a man who approached our car asking if we needed a place to stay, a guide, or wanted to buy something. We drove away and on to our hotel through sandy streets, waves of heat dancing across the desert landscape and buildings the same tan color of the sand which surrounded them. It was the most intense entrance to a town I have ever experienced. It seemed as though we had reached the end of the earth and no one was left to welcome us.

Our Riad in Merzouga was one of the most otherworldly experiences I have ever had. We were alone in the Riad minus the three men who ran it. Because of Ramadan they were resting a lot so J and I had the place to ourselves. We would sit in the pool, hidden behind the sand colored walls, and listen to the complete silence. I have never experienced complete silence like this except for the day after 9/11 when there were no planes in the sky and no noise on the streets. When we were outside of the pool it was so hot that instantly our mouths were dry and our noses burned. We would jump into the cool water of the pool to escape the heat and the minute we got out the desert wind would chill us to the bone. Have you ever been swimming in 108 degree weather and gotten out of the pool only to freeze until the water was dried off of your skin? The weirdest experience!

We spent most of our afternoons in the pool, or in the air conditioning of our room, eating our only lunch, whatever chips, nuts, cookies or candy we had that we were going to ship home as souvenirs of food from around the world. There were no stores open to shop and no restaurants were open due to Ramadan. We watched a lot of Netflix, read and napped.

In the mornings we went out in the 4 x 4 with a guide, driving through the amazing orange sand dunes of the Sahara. We explored the quartz mine, the empty riverbeds, discovered wild camels, nomad camp sites and marveled at the beautiful contrast between the black lava rock dunes and the completely untouched sand dunes. The contrast was so beautiful as the black rocky landscape would give way to the pristine orange sand, like an ocean tide as it recedes on the beach. Our guide was great, teaching us a lot about the Berber culture, the Nomadic people and the philosophies of the Islamic people. He too emphasized how important it is in their religion to love and honor all people, showing no prejudice for any religion. He shared with us the gentleness of the Berber culture, and deep passion for the earth surrounding them.

In the evenings J and I would marvel at the brilliance of the desert. We would walk through the edge of the desert, just outside of our hotel, stand on top of dunes listening to the silence, or sit on the roof top deck of our Riad marveling at the glorious creation in front of us. The few people we did see were so friendly and kind, it was a beautiful contrast to what we experienced in Marrakech.

Our nights were spent dining by the pool by the soft Moroccan lanterns eating the best tagines in Morocco and getting to know the three men who operate the Riad. They were so much fun. With unemployment being so bad in Morocco many people work far from their homes and only see their families once a month or less. One of the men here was no different. His wife, children and mother all live together in a town about 4 hours away. Once a month he gets to return home to visit them and stay for a few days before returning back to work. We shared pictures and stories of our families and the vast difference between our culture and theirs.

On our last night as we sat on the rooftop deck (this never lasted more than 15 minutes because of the heat), drinking water and waiting for the sun to set. J and I became so overwhelmed with how lucky we are to be living this life. We were realizing a dream to see something so few people are ever fortunate enough to see. We both shared stories about how we each learned about the Sahara in school, it was a far off exotic land, untouched by most. I don’t think either of us ever thought to dream of coming here, yet as we sat watching the sun fade behind the mountainous dunes we felt like it was always meant to be this way. We were blessed to be alone here, in a time when almost no one travels to this part of the world. In that moment it was just us, and nature. I don’t think there have been many moments as powerful as this for either of us before.

(As a side note I want to tell each of you, realize your dreams, no matter how big or small, and when you do, take a moment to enjoy it, to feel it, to give thanks for it, and to realize how blessed you are. There is little else as good as this in life.)

If you are planning on traveling to Morocco make sure you check out my Do’s, Don’ts and Things to Know before you go.

From Marrakech to the Todra Gorge

Parting Marrakech was bittersweet for me. I hated to leave our amazing Riad, but was anxious to see a different Morocco than we had seen so far. Our next stop was to be in Ait Ouaddar and the Todra Gorge. We hired a driver to take us through the country. What an amazing experience! In the 5 or 6 hour drive I managed to take 175 pictures!

The topography of Morocco is absolutely incredible. There are mountains, valleys, hills, dried riverbeds, towns, shepherds, sheep, goats, tiny villages and windy roads. I was completely shocked at the incredible beauty of Morocco outside of the medinas. We stopped on the side of the road where a man was selling fossils, and crystal rocks. He had a stand set up to sell the things he would find in the mountains on his walks. He was proud and knowledgeable, not to mention agile from walking the mountains his whole life. He is such an expert that he can now tell which rocks are crystals and which aren’t before he even opens them. After buying several things from him we jumped back in the van and started the climb up 2, 260 meters to the Atlas Mountains.

Our driver was so incredible about teaching us about the Muslim culture, the Arabic culture, and the history of the Berber people. It was an incredibly fascinating ride with a man loved talking to and learning from. He taught us about the five sacred fruits or heavenly fruits of Allah:

Grapes
Olives
Pomegranate
Dates
Figs

Along our drive we also saw where most towns or villages had something in Arabic carved into the side of a mountain overlooking their village. There were three words in a triangle pattern. It stands for Allah, Country, King with Allah being at the top of the triangle. Many villages also used the mountains to announce the names of their villages or towns.

On our way to Ait Ouaddar we stopped in the town of Ouarzazate. This area is flat desert, super hot and really cool looking. It is where Hollywood comes to shoot a lot of movies, including The Mummy. There is still a set standing as you enter the town, and as you exit the town you can see some of the machinery they use for filming as well. It was like a ghost town when we went through, due to Ramadan, but very cool to see anyway. We almost felt like we were on an abandoned movie set as we ate lunch there, it was so quite and still.

When we arrived at Ait Ouaddar we couldn’t believe the massivity of the moutains surrounding us. Ait Ouaddar is also part of a gorge formed by raging rivers. There are Nomads who live in the mountains, making their homes in caves, or small houses they build into the sides of the mountain. It was absolutely incredible to watch them walk along the mountain herding their animals.

We loved the peace and beauty of the area with valleys of oleander, and unusual rock formations.

We found the food, the Berber people and the scenery to be incredible in this whole region. The Berber people are gentle, laid back people who seemed to like to laugh quite a bit and were incredibly hospitable.

The day we left to travel on we stopped at the Todra Gorge. We had a new driver, who was so sweet and proud to show off his amazing country. The Gorge was heart stopping. While I stood in the bottom of the gorge, surrounding by these gorgeous rocky mountains I couldn’t help but note how small and insignificant I am in this world. I am here for such a short time compared to the beautiful planet, and in the bottom of a gorge you realize you are also such a small tiny piece of the planet as well. I was in complete awe and had an incredibly strong sense of just how blessed I am. While there were tourists there, there were far fewer people than we have experienced in other countries.

This part of Morocco, the landscape, the people, the food, it was all taking me by surprise. My neck literally hurt from looking out the window for so long as we drove through the middle of Morocco.

Before you head to Morocco make sure to read my post about the Do’s, Don’ts and Things To Know.

The Medina of Marrakech

I have dreamed of Morocco for years. I have been in awe of the architecture for as long as I can remember. I dreamed of walking around in the medina’s, sitting in café’s watching the people and shopping in the souks. The Morocco I found was much different than what I had imagined. Unbeknownest to me we travelled to Morocco during Ramadan. This had its pluses and minuses for sure but I think overall I am glad we went during this holy month. While many restaurants were closed, there was no alcohol available at most places we were able to avoid the crowds of tourists usually found in Morocco and were able to observe a different part of their culture.

We started our trip with a quick day in Casablanca, visiting the Hassan II mosque which was absolutely stunning, sitting majestically on the corniche waterfront. It is the largest mosque in Morocco and the 13^th largest in the world.

Then we headed to Marrakech by train. The architecture was so foreign to me as we approached the medina. Every building was the same color, almost identical to the surrounding mountains and desert. This is actually a law in Morocco. Any building must be painted to match the surrounding landscape so as not to intrude on the balance between the land and the sky. I loved this so much and it really made a huge difference in the landscape as we traveled. (The grey houses are unfinished and the pink building is the mosque.)

We stayed just inside the walls of the ancient medina in the most gorgeous Riad. A Riad is an old home, built in a square shape with an open courtyard in the middle. I was immediately entranced and blown away but the tile work, the woodwork and the gorgeous view from the rooftop terrace. I was in love!

Our first night everything changed for us, and unfortunately set a tone for the rest of our trip. We decided to “get lost in the medina” as everyone recommends. Well, we didn’t actually intend to get lost we wanted to walk through the medina to the “Big Square” to have dinner and see the nightly activity. We were warned not to follow anyone if they offered as we left our Riad. The medina’s are like mazes with narrow streets. Picture a labyrinth. There aren’t street signs and truly the only people who know how to get around are the locals. This is definitely NOT a good thing. As we walked men and teenage boys would say, “Big Square that way” and point, often times they were not telling the truth, or contradicting each other as a game. It started to put us on edge because we realized we couldn’t trust what anyone was telling us. At one point we walked down this street to have a bunch of younger guys tell us the entrance was closed because of Ramadan so we had to walk a different way, they were blocking half the entrance to the street. It is now dark and we feel quite uncomfortable. A guy walked by and pointed us in the “right” direction. From there we walked and he was in front and occasionally would turn to ask us something or tell us something. My skin was starting to crawl, I was getting very uncomfortable and felt like something wasn’t right. As we got closer to the Big Square he turned to us and started to demand we give him money. My husband said no, so the man got louder and more aggressive. Then another man walked around the corner with a large walking stick and started screaming at us to give him money. We kept walking, hoping to find someone on the street to help. We ended up in a square, with the man still screaming at us, when he realized we weren’t giving him money he grabbed J’s arm and started to berate us with a phrase we would hear many times throughout our trip, “you happy now tourist? You a happy tourist?”. He practically split the words on J. Luckily the square must have scared the kid off because J was at his limit of what he could take and had told the guy to get his hands off of him and get away from us. Then, when the guy saw two shop owners he walked away. We proceeded to the Big Square to have dinner, completely shaken and in full understanding of why our Riad seemed so reluctant to let us go out that night. We heard this same type of story from so many people along our journey. It was really disheartening.

We realized immediately that we had no business in the medina alone, especially at night. So we hired a guide for the next day, which turned out to be a huge blessing. He took us to see some of the amazing things Marrakech has to offer, the gorgeous tile work, the beautiful university-Ben Youssef, the old hotels where the travelers would stay in ancient times.

He taught us about the culture, and took us through the Souks. When we would try to take pictures of some things people would try to demand money from us, and when we shopped in the Souk they would be in our faces to buy their things and then harass us when we wouldn’t stop to look. It was just more of their culture-we are walking wallets. Our guide was truly amazing though, and the University we saw was incredible. It was free for boys who should intelligence and drive. They would study there, live there, pray there, and be prepared for jobs as adult men. The tile work was incredible, as were the little classrooms where the teacher and student would sit face to face, with another student in the rafters listening. Then the two students would switch places while the professor taught the same lesson again. They knew at the time that people learn better when working directly with the teacher, and with hearing a lesson twice.

Throughout the week we did go outside the medina to visit the Jardin Majorelle, which was so peaceful and serene. Yves Saint Laurant brought it back to life and his partner donated the beautiful sight to the city after Yves Saint Laurent died. It was a lush garden in the middle of the desert city. Once again we were harassed and yelled at, this time by a taxi driver because we wanted to walk not take a taxi, but we were now becoming more prepared for the insults and the people in our face.

A few nights we went to the “Big Square” (by taxi) to see all the activity there, the men selling things in the stalls, the people walking around, the men with monkeys, and other tricks. Women were offering to do henna tattoos all under the dark night sky. It was a really crazy thing to experience. I will say we learned quickly, don’t let them touch you or they will want money, and don’t acknowledge them after a polite No. They won’t stop but if you keep walking they will eventually move on to someone else.

Definitely worth a visit was the ancient Kasbah where several people of the ancient royal family are buried. It was lost for many years but once recovered and restored it was an amazing site to see the incredible intricacies of the Arabic writing, and the beautiful tile work.

Because it was Ramadan we were able to witness the beautiful call to prayer at night, a special time for their holy month. It was quite an experience to hear the prayer and to witness their tradition.

On our last day we ventured into a shopping area in the medina. We had a good time that day, joking with a few shop owners and buying a couple of souvenirs. It was hard for me to manage the anger and disdain of the people treating you badly when you wouldn’t buy something, or getting aggressive with restaurant owners when they were trying to beg at our tables and were told by the owners to move on. I guess after so many days there we were growing immune and were able to meet people who saw us as humans and treat us with kindness.

I had lived under this romantic ideal of Marrakech and my heart broke a little when it wasn’t our reality. We spent a lot of time in our Riad playing cards, writing, and getting a Hammam bath. It wasn’t the experience I had anticipated but we still made it fun.

I will tell you that the people who aren’t trying to hawk their wares are usually so nice. We had some good experiences with people but overall were just so overwhelmed with the treatment of us and other tourists. We were told to get out of flea markets and go to the Big Square because we were tourists and don’t belong in their city, we were called names, and experienced two taxi drivers punching each other outside of our car because they each wanted the fare. It was quite chaotic, and when the day came to move on we were happy to do so.

Before you jump on that plane, train or boat, check out my post on all the Do’s, Don’ts and Things To Know.

Finding Paradise in Ubud, Indonesia

When the taxi drove into Ubud I immediately felt something different. J. and I spent the next week finding paradise in Ubud.

I was excited to see the streets lined with unique shops and restaurants. They reminded me of where I moved from in the States. It felt comfortable to me and I was excited for a bit of “normalcy”. Of course Ubud is not like the States. The further we drove to our hotel the more I realized how special it is. The outskirts of town are a beautiful mixture of rice paddies, rocky hills, temples, or handicraft shops.

There is so much to say about Ubud so bear with me if I get long in the mouth on this post. I am not sure if there are many places as special as Ubud. Not only is it beautiful, unique, surrounded by holy places, majestic mountains, waterfalls and artisans, it is slow, comfortable, and embracing. The spirituality of the people who inhabit this gorgeous island, enhance every thing. There is nothing that isn’t gorgeous, or respected.

The seven days we spent in Ubud felt like a month and a minute all at the same time. I experienced so much, learned so much and relaxed so much but it was definitely over before I was ready. We left a lot unexplored in Ubud. I definitely left part of my heart there as well.

How It All Began

The first night we went out to eat in town. There are great organic, vegetarian, French, Indonesian, Italian and fine restaurants all through Ubud. Each one is unique and beautiful. After dinner we walked until we found a cute little gelati shop, and had some desert.

We then decided to head back to our hotel. This is when fate smiled on me. We hopped in a taxi. As he drove us back to our hotel he told us all the places there were to see in Bali. He offered to take us to see them. (This happens with most taxi drivers)

As happens when things are going the way they should we immediately hit it off with the driver. In fact, we decided to spend the week with him showing us around the island. Kadak Ata was a blessing for us. He taught us so much, showed us so much and laughed a lot with us. He made our trip in Ubud, and helped me to realize very special dreams. I cannot write about our time there without thanking him for his kind, generous and beautiful heart. He opened a beautiful world for J and me.

What To Do In Ubud & The Island Of Bali

Deciding what to do in Ubud is not easy. There is so much to see and do. We decided to take the road less traveled. Kadak offered to take us to see as many non-touristy places as possible. Instead of going to the Tegenungun waterfall we had Kadak take us on a two hour drive to a sight with 5 waterfalls.

On the way we stopped on side of the road. There were two gorgeous columns, these are present when you leave one district, county or city and pass into another. At the stop there was a beautiful little area where fresh water ran from the mountains, which surrounded us. There were 2 cement “rooms” where the water would flow through pipes and create “showers”. There were no ceilings. As we took pictures of the rain forest and mountains surrounding us we realized there were two women taking showers. They were also washing their clothes in these “rooms”. (This is a very normal occurrence in Bali. We saw people bathing in the natural springs on the side of the road by the town of Ubud, in rice paddy fields and by rivers.)

Our next stop was a temple on a lake (Pura Ulun Danu Beratan). This is evidently a big deal but for me it was overcrowded. As beautiful as the lake and the building were it was it felt more like a little tourist trap than a holy place.

Next Kadak wanted to show us an abandoned hotel, a very grand place, left abandoned before it was completed. It was falling apart despite the millions of dollars the Kings son had invested before abandoning it. The views over the valley were incredible, rice paddies, mountains, farms, and rivers in lush greens highlighted with beautiful flowers.

Finally (our two and a half hour trip had now turned into more like 3 and half hours) we arrived at the waterfalls. We hiked down for about half an hour, ignoring the fact we were going to have to hike up. The sheer majesty of the two waterfalls and their neighboring three was breathtaking. The powerful force would drench you just with the spray coming off of the falls. There were tiny bridges and rivers to cross on the way, all surrounded by gorgeous mountains covered in the beautiful forests only Bali can offer.

We spent time shopping, wandering, and visiting the monkey forest on another day. The monkey forest is right in the town of Ubud, but for me it was too much. The monkeys were aggressive and it was quite full of people even in the off-season. The scenery is beautiful, including one very Raiders of the Lost Ark looking area.

We also visited the various temples, Tirta Empul and the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave. All of which were incredibly beautiful and quite serene. (Go in the mornings to avoid the bus tours coming from the beach). We were able to witness a religious ceremony, get blessed, and watch the locals do their purification in the holy water. There is so much respect for spirituality and religion here you can’t help but feel how special everything is. The beautiful flowering offerings adorn the temples. People (including me) walk around with dried rice on their foreheads after blessings.

My pictures will have to suffice to describe the beautiful lush green of the forests, and mountains, which make up the island of Bali and surround all of Ubud.

Natural & Spiritual healing are a very big deal in Ubud, which means medicine. The locals seek out natural and spiritual healers for most things. The medical doctors here even refer patients to the natural medicine men. They also have a ton of yoga places and meditation places too. So I was very inspired to have my own personal experience.

On our last day Kadak picked me up early. He was taking me to a local spiritual medicine man. We had received permission the day before for him to see me. I did not want to go to someone who became popular from movies or was using his gifts for fame or wealth.

Kadak brought an offering for me to give to the spirits and I brought money for the medicine man. It was a very special time for me, a gift Kadak will never understand he gave to me. Kadak sat in the room with me translating and helping to interpret everything the medicine man said to me.

After our visit I was to get purified. We bought another offering and headed back to the holy waters at the temple Pura Tirta Empul. I had to go under each of the 13 fountains to be cleansed, purified and renewed. I can tell you it was an incredible experience, like meditation standing up.

For both J and me Ubud was more about a feeling than anything else. So, I apologize for not being able to represent that accurately here. Hopefully my pictures will convey. If you ever get a chance head to Ubud, call Kadak. Then lose yourself in the beauty of this island, the amazing people and incredible culture. Hopefully I will see you there!

Details

We stayed at this wonderful hotel: Hotel Villa Ubud (We loved it here!)

Call Kadak Ata!: Bali Belly Tours (He is also great for just getting around town too.)