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The First 100 Days Of Our World Travels

J. asked me this morning how long we have been traveling. We were both shocked that it has been just over 100 days since we started this journey. I wanted to do a recap of our favorite places, experiences, and all the different animals we have seen. So, here it goes:

Places we have seen so far:

Thailand

Hat Yai, Koh Lanta, Khao Yai National Park, Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai Elephants, Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai (City), River Kwai, Sukhohthai, Koh Tao, Bangkok

Sri Lanka

Adam’s Peak (Big Buddha Foot), Nuwara Eliya, Yala National Park, Unawatuna, Hikkaduwa, Kandy, Ella, Trincomalee, Dambulla, Sigiriya, Colombo

Indonesia

Bukhit Lawang, Labuan Bajo, Lombok, Gili T, Lembongan, Ubud

Singapore

Qatar

Doha

Morocco

Casablanca, Marrakech

Our favorite places we have visited:

In Thailand:

J.: Chiang Mai Elephants-It was his dream to be up close to elephants. We stayed on a reservation that rescued elephants. For him to be able to spend so much intimate time with them, watching, playing, bathing was like waking up to a dream everyday.

Me: Chiang Mai Elephants-For me this was my favorite for a different reason. I was so moved by the resiliency of the Karen people from Burma who are refugees from their country. They had such a peaceful nature and joy in them that I was so moved by. Watching their love and respect of the elephants and nature was really important to me. They made us amazing food and we met some really cool tourists there.

In Sri Lanka:

J.: Whole country amazing-It is impossible for J. to narrow down one place in Sri Lanka. For him the whole country was a combined experience. He found at every moment he wanted to take in all the landscape, the food, the people and the culture. It seemed as if every moment was a spectacular experience.

Me: Whole country amazing– Sri Lanka was like a dream for me. The majestic mountains, the rich Buddhist culture, the amazing people and the resiliency of the citizens were so inspiring and moving to me. Everywhere we looked was beauty and kindness in its most authentic state.

In Indonesia:

J.: Bukit Lawang-The best way J. can describe Bukhit Lawang is a Swiss village minus the cold and snow. The landscape and scenery were breathtaking, perfectly manicured, and stunning. He loved the fact that we could trek, stroll and hang out in one little place.

Me: Bukit Lawang– This village was the closest thing to perfect I have ever experienced. The people were so kind, the landscaping was perfect, their respect for the planet, the animals and each other was amazing. It is extremely walkable and there are many treks, markets and things to see, but mostly I enjoyed just sitting on the river staring at the incredible rain forest.

Morocco: Too early to tell

Our favorite experiences so far:

In Thailand:

J.: Washing the baby elephant (this is what prompted this entire journey we are on)-to be so close and personal with the large creatures that you usually only get to see in zoos in a more natural setting was so moving for him. We were able to spend enough time with them to start to understand them, like watching them wag their tails, and steal his hat, or charge him to play with him. He actually had tears in his eyes as he stood next to them, feeding and petting them, taking in their graceful nature.

Me: Monks in Khao Yai National Park-this was one of those perfect moments in your life. The setting of only a few people at that hotel allowed us to feel the kindness and peacefulness of their nature. It was impossible to be unchanged by the experience of giving them an offering and sitting with them while they prayed.

In Sri Lanka:

J.: Adam’s Peak- J. was so happy to be able to climb this with his best friend. It was a great experience for them to be there for each other encouraging each other the whole way. J. says it would have been impossible for him to do on his own.

Me: Adam’s Peak– The feeling of pushing yourself beyond where you thought you could go, the reward of achieving a goal and the power of determination moved me more than anything I have ever experienced. I was so proud of myself for not giving up, or giving in.

In Indonesia:

J.: Diving with the Manta Ray & seeing a baby Mola-Mola and Hiking with the Orangutan- Playing with the baby elephant was a dream for J. but seeing these creatures in their own natural environment just by luck was more than he could have expected. The incredible feeling of being chased by a large male orangutan and then being able to stand within 10 feet of him took his breath away. It was the same with the Manta and the Mola-Mola. J. felt the blessing of our experiencing things many people never get to so strongly in these moments.

Me: Diving with the Manta Ray & Hiking with the Orangutan-it is impossible to choose between these two-The incredible experience of being so close to these large creatures and being able to observe them in their natural habitat was like nothing I could have imagined. It was like being invited to the most exclusive of shows. The Manta were doing a mating dance over our heads as we clung to the bottom of the ocean and stared in disbelief. I may have actually yelled out a few expletives in complete shock as they passed so close you could feel the water and air move on your skin.

In Singapore:

J.: Winning in a Singapore Casino (2^nd country he gambled in and 2^nd country he won)- J. had so much fun sitting at the black jack table with several Asian women cheering him on encouraging him to bet more and win more. He has a goal of beating a casino in every country that has a casino so he is on his way!

Me: Eating the some of the best Mexican food I have ever had! I know this sounds crazy but it is true. We found this great little restaurant and the comforting feeling of Mexican food combined with a great waiter, good beer and sitting outside in such a clean city felt so right to me. Sometimes it is the craziest thing that can have an impact.

In Morocco:

Too early to tell

Lessons We Have Learned So Far:

Me:

Changing cultures requires patience and understanding.
Living out of a suitcase makes life so simple. I have only a few outfits to choose from and 3 pairs of shoes so I don’t waste time or money on fashion.
The constant stimulation of new cultures, languages, and sites can be more exhausting than you would think.
Patience is required for everything!
I need to continue to improve my foreign language skills.
No matter what culture, we are all similar, we all want the best for our families, our health and our lives. We want to be happy and free to do what we want, worship who we want and live the lives we envision.
American poor is not poor compared to the rest of the world
Third world countries need help with their stray dog and cat problems. I wish I were a vet so I could volunteer to do free neutering in the countries I visit.
Kindness is understood and appreciated in every language.
You still need a Netflix fix now and then no matter what country you are in.
Take advantage of good wifi when you have it.
No matter how many pictures you take it is impossible to convey the beauty of a country or a culture, some things can only be felt.

Patience. Most countries move much slower than America so be patient, adopt the pace and you will be much happier.
It is extremely important to understand a culture, even if you do not accept it you need to understand you are in their country.
Hire a tour guide or driver. I never did this before but we have learned so much about the cultures, beliefs and customs from our drivers and guides. It helped us to learn and grow and also appreciate where we are much more than without them.
Pack for your trip, then take out about 50% of it because you probably won’t need it, care about it or use it where you are going. (A lot of local airlines will charge you over 20 kilos so it gets really expensive to have overweight baggage.)
Let your hotel or hostel recommend people to you for drivers and guides. Their reputation is on the line so they will only use good people.
Be cautious when taking tours or being offered to go see people making things. They are almost always ploys to get you to buy things, so you will get some pretty hardcore selling at the end.
In Thailand if someone tells you the tourist attractions are closed and you can go with them or someone else for tours for cheap, it is a scam. Don’t go. The tourist attractions don’t close during the day. They make commission for bringing you and the shops are usually pretty intense about you buying.
Unlike the American culture bargaining is expected in the markets and with cabs. When you are hiring cabs agree on a price, as the final price, before you get in.
Some of the best experiences we had were not the ones in the tour books or mainstream blogs. Our hotels, or drivers often recommended things we had no idea existed. The locals always know the best places and usually love to show them off.
We loved having the locals and hotel staff tell us where to eat. This way we avoided the tourist traps, usually saved money, and had a more genuine experience.
I have learned not to judge people by the color of their skin, their religion, or their financial standing. I have learned amazing things, had the best conversations and been shown the most kindness from some of the poorest people I have ever met. If I would not have stepped outside of my comfort zone I would have missed the best part of traveling.
I have learned I am like the Sahara desert, just one grain of sand in a massive desert. I just move with the wind and am a small part of a much bigger community.

Animals & Creatures We Saw in Thailand:

Animals & Creatures We Saw In Sri Lanka:

Animals & Creatures We Saw In Indonesia:

I can’t wait to share the next 100 days of adventures with you!

Visiting the Dambulla Cave Temple

The Dambulla Cave Temple is the largest group of cave temples in Sri Lanka. There are 5 caves in total which were built as shrine rooms between 85-77 BC. They were built by King Walagamba. The caves are built at the top of a steep hill (of course), but don’t let that discourage you. The Dambulla Cave Temple was definitely worth the trek up, and proved to be one of the best things we saw in Sri Lanka.

We asked our tuk-tuk driver to stop at the bottom so we could buy tickets (this is imperative, you can not buy them at the top) and then drive us as far up as he could. It is not that we are too lazy to walk all the way up but when it is close to 95 degrees outside and we had been climbing and trekking a lot we decided to take the easier way in order to be able to enjoy the rest of the visit a little more.

The trek up from this point is mostly shaded and is a stone walkway. There are gorgeous views and very entertaining monkeys along the way. Of course J. had to stop, feed them and make friends with them before we could trek further. For some people this could be a ploy to rest and I would normally think that is what J. was doing but his incredible desire to play with every monkey in a 5 mile proximity was definitely the motivation this time. We found the monkeys to be very friendly and playful, just make sure if you go to be respectful of their space or they will bare their teeth at you.

At the top of the hill, the lush green landscape of Sri Lanka spreads majestically in every direction. Unfortunately it was impossible to capture this on film but take my word for it when I tell you there are few places on this planet that can offer up the views from Dambulla Cave Temple. The trees, the hills, the mountains and the flowers are a sight to behold. After we took our shoes off we entered through the small gated area and found the white caves nestled into the side of the hill. I stood quietly taking it all in as I have never seen anything like it before.

The cave temples hold 151 Buddha statues in various positions (or mudras), there are three statues of Gods, two images of bodhisathwa, and three images of kings. Each cave offers a different experience and contains a different number of these statues and images. There are three caves which are so small they can barely fit 10 people and two caves which are quite large. Each one no matter its size holds inside an immense feeling of spirituality, peace and history. I found myself wanting to just sit all day and admire the workmanship, and the history.

In some of the caves the walls and ceilings are covered in painted design which is so impressive the way it flows over every natural bump and crevice without ever losing its integrity. I could only stand in awe at the time and workmanship it took to create this amazing place. In total there are 22,000 feet of painted surface all which depict different pictures of Buddha and Bodhisathwa characters and some important historical events.

The statues were amazing. Mostly gold they managed to shimmer even in the low light of each cave. In one of the caves the Buddhas were fit so well into each space that there was no more than a hair of space between the top of the statue and the roof of the cave. When we stood admiring all of this we had to remind ourselves how old it was and that it was all made by hand. It is truly an incredible example of what passion and faith can build.

Monks lived in meditation in the natural caves in the hill, before the King built these five shrines. They have found around 75 caves so far which were inhabited. There are inscriptions which offer help in dating the caves and the lives of the monks.

I can not explain in words the incredible feeling I had here. I wanted desperately just to stay all day in the peace and tranquility (despite the tourists you could still feel it). There is something very special at the Dambulla Cave Temple which I attribute to the history of peace of the monks who have worshipped here for years.

In cave two it is worth noting there is a pot on the floor which catches a drip from the ceiling of the cave. The water which drips down is considered holy water as it never stops it slow drip from above. The Sri Lankan people consider this to be a very special phenomenon.

When you are done in the caves you can walk down to see the Golden Buddha, which is HUGE! There are also more monkeys here, but they are a little more aggressive so use caution.

It is easy to catch a tuk-tuk back from the Cave Temple and they are inexpensive to most places you want to go.

As with all Holy places in Sri Lanka make sure your knees and shoulders are covered, and you will be required to remove your shoes before you enter (which you must pay an attendant to take and keep organized).

Take some water, be prepared for the people trying to sell you stuff at the mid point on your way down, and definitely take your time. It is worth it!

Jetwing Lake Hotel, Dambulla

I don’t usually write about specific hotels but after our stay at the Jetwing Lake Hotel I can’t help myself. The Jetwing Lake was an experience for us that we will never forget so I had to share it with everyone (we were not compensated in any way for our stay, or this post).

After realizing we had enough time to stop in Dambulla and Sigiriya again I did a quick search and was lucky enough to find the Jetwing Lake. Since the Jetwing properties are the premiere properties in Sri Lanka I knew I had to book the Lake hotel so we didn’t leave Sri Lanka without a Jetwing experience.

The hotel is set off of the main road, tucked quietly into the natural setting of Dambulla. Somehow Jetwing was able to build this incredible resort seemingly without disturbing its surroundings. It beautifully blends into the countryside as an enhancement not as an intrusion. From the moment we drove into the driveway we felt immediate peace and serenity. Which is absolutely no wonder with the care they have given to make sure they take as little as possible from their surrounding environment.

The open reception area is absolutely stunning. I couldn’t get over the beautifully designed furniture with its clean and simple lines which invite you into the tranquil setting. The staff was immediately helpful, relaxed and welcoming. We were greeted with a delicious drink, a fresh flower and refreshing towels. Instantly we were transformed and engulfed in the serenity of this modern oasis.

Our room was pure luxury with impressive wood details, beautiful sofa, incredibly comfortable bed and a bathroom to die for. The rooms are spacious, with every ammenity you can imagine, including a huge bathtub. I was happy to find that there were no plastic toiletry bottles, only glass to minimize the impact on our planet. The Jetwing Lake also recycles the water used to maintain the gorgeous property. The large windows in our room and bathroom looked out over the stunning pool area, again melding us right into the gorgeous landscape.

The food was as incredible as the dining room design. Each person who served us did so with the utmost professionalism, making us feel as if we were the only guests in the restaurant. The open air concept is an extension of the feeling of being part of the natural surroundings. We ate our meals watching the birds, and wildlife and enjoying the incredibly cool breezes throughout the day. I did find that I had a major problem, which was not being able to stop myself from eating at the dinner buffet, and as a vegetarian that is a rare treat. As a design buff I was very impressed with the gorgeous furniture, ceiling fixtures (multi-colored spindles hung together as chandeliers) and the impeccable layout. There was actually a desert room, salad room, and bread room for those of you who like to eat!

As our last day approached we were overcome with a feeling of wanting to stay longer, and we found we weren’t the only ones. A guest we talked to commented on trying to figure out how to bolt themselves in their rooms so they could stay another week. While there are quite a few rooms and suites at the Jetwing the pool was never crowded, in fact the design of the hotel has provided so many different places for guests you often can relax without seeing anyone else. Each and every staff member treated all of us as if we were the only guests. The pride in their jobs, and the company they work for was evident at every gesture.

One thing that is so important to me is the impact we are having on our planet as we travel. Jetwing Lake surprised and impressed me with their dedication to our planet. The do not ship any organic waste off of the property and all garden waste is composted on site and all food waste is fed to a biogas digester for renewable energy production on the site. The Jetwing Lake has easily shown that it is possible to have a beautiful 5 star quality hotel without sacrificing the dedication the surrounding environment. All of these things combined made it one of the most incredible experiences we have ever had in our world travels.

I told J several times that the Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton and all of the other five star hotels we have stayed at should take a lesson from the staff and management of the Jetwing Lake.

It is an absolute must to stay at the Jetwing Lake hotel while you are in Sri Lanka. You won’t forget it! It is easy to get to Dambulla Cave, Golden Temple and Sigiriya from the hotel so don’t worry about staying a little off the main road.

Visiting Kandy Sri Lanka

I wasn’t sure what to expect in Kandy. It is one of the largest cities in Sri Lanka, but Sri Lanka so far hasn’t been typical at all so I didn’t know what a large city in Sri Lanka would be. I knew it wouldn’t be filled with McDonald’s, Starbucks and other American chains so that is a good start (There was a few KFC’s and a Dominos Pizza in the city).

While Kandy doesn’t have the large skyscrapers I expect when I hear big city, it does have very heavy traffic but it is tuk-tuk’s and mopeds instead of large SUV’s and semi’s like we experience in the U.S.. So as far as a large city, Kandy doesn’t really fit the typical bill.

We visited Kandy during the Sri Lanka New Years. At first we were told that everything just closed for the day but by the time New Years day came the country closes for 3 days. This made touring the city a bit complicated but we made the most out of it and even enjoyed some downtime and Netflix binging.

Our first day we visited the Botanical Gardens. Supposedly they are one of the most beautiful in the world. I was skeptical thinking this is pretty tall order considering some of the botanical gardens I have seen around the world. However, just like everything else about Sri Lanka, it completely surprised me and turned out to be one of the most beautiful gardens we have ever visited.

It is absolutely massive, and all outdoors, with the exception of the orchid area. The trees are so large, and full of vines, and hanging roots it feels like being in a fairy tale. There is an entire walkway lined with giant bamboo and large leaning pine trees that seem to bend only under the weight of the clouds in the sky.

Of course the monkeys, the huge fruit bats, and beautiful birds made the gardens more enchanting and interesting. When we made it to the orchid area I was completely blown away but some of the species I have never seen before (I am an orchid nut so I have seen a lot of orchids in the world!).

The next day we headed off to the Temple of the Tooth, winding our way through the noisy and chaotic traffic of tuk-tuk’s and scooters. It is situated on the Kandy Lake, which is a really beautiful sight to see in itself. J couldn’t visit the temple because he had shorts on and didn’t want to buy more pants or sarongs after Thailand and our visit to the Grand Palace. Plus he didn’t care much about seeing a temple that houses a tooth from Buddha, so it was a good excuse…

Inside the temple is the tooth of Buddha which was pulled from the ashes of his cremated body. They don’t allow you to see the tooth except on certain occasions so basically you are going to look at the temple, and to pray or worship. In all honesty I found the temple to be underwhelming compared to other temples in Sri Lanka. There is a building built around the original temple which takes away from the beautiful architecture of the temple. I wanted to visit the rest of the museums located on the same grounds but was unable to during our stay because of the New Year’s holiday.

We enjoyed the amazing boutique hotel where we stayed in Kandy and the people there but were a bit underwhelmed with the city itself. I would still recommend going to see the botanical gardens, the lake and the museums and Temple of the Tooth. They are worth seeing and Kandy is a great mid-point in the country to stay for a few days while you are traveling to other towns in the country.

Hikkaduwa Turtle Farm & Hatchery

Everywhere we went in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka the resiliency and kindness of the people was overwhelming. After surviving the tsunami in 2004 the people have rebuilt their community and are thriving. Their stories and trials are heart wrenching but their hope and determination are completely inspiring.

One such example is the man who is now running the Turtle Farm & Hatchery in Hikkaduwa. At the time of the tsunami Nimal was leaving in the Sri Lankan capital of Colombo. His father had started the hatchery in 2000 to help save the turtles who were at great risk in the area. Unfortunately he passed away that same year and his daughter took over. In 2004 when the tsunami hit Sri Lanka she was killed as was his mother, two other sisters and all of their children. As we heard this story it was all I could do to not break down at the thought of his pain. Nimal’s brother, also working in Colombo at the time, survived the tsunami as well.

Nimal made the decision to rebuild the hatchery and reopen in honor of his family. In 2006 he reopened with the help of locals and tourists and has been working hard to rehabilitate and repopulate the turtles, as well as educate the community.

The humble center is filled with motivating quotes and inspiring sayings which speak to the character and dedication of the family.

With any money they have they will go into the community to buy turtle eggs, which the Sri Lankans gather, sell and consume as they believe it brings luck. He often will pay 5-10 times the asking price for eggs to save them from being eaten. Nimal will bring them back to the hatchery, bury them, and then introduce them back into the wild when they have hatched and learned to swim.

There are also several tanks where they take in injured turtles and rehabilitate them with the hope of returning them to the ocean. They get many turtles who have lost limbs due to boats, fish net and other things. They will teach the turtles how to swim despite their missing limbs. They do this by starting with tanks with little water and as the turtles learn they increase the water until the turtle can function in the wild.

There is definitely a special feeling at the Turtle Farm & Hatchery, born from love, loss and dedication. The good they are doing and their strong beliefs fill the hatchery walls. Each turtle that is swimming with only 3 legs is a testament to what we can all do on this earth, how we can do what may seem small but really is huge. The humble attitudes of the staff and the owner as well as the surroundings only reinforce that our gestures don’t need to be grand they only need to be genuine.

We were lucky enough to be able to hold some of the smaller turtles, and then were invited back that night to help them release the babies into the ocean. Unfortunately the way that nature works only 1 in 100 baby turtles will survive. It was such an amazing experience watching these little baby turtles swim out into the ocean, fighting their first waves. I couldn’t help but give them little blessings as they went out into the world and try to survive.

It was such an honor to visit the hatchery and to participate in the release of the turtles. If you would like to help they accept and need donations to keep functioning, although you would never be asked for any in person.

(Did you know that the amount of warmth a turtle egg gets while developing determines its sex? The warmer ones on top become female and the colder ones on bottom become male.)

(Turtles are often suffocating and dying from trying to eat plastic bags which they think are jellyfish. Anyone else for banning plastic bags!?!)

(Nylon nets, fishermen, plastic bags and boat props are some of the biggest unnatural dangers for turtles now.)

Staying In Hikaduwa, Sri Lanka

Hikaduwa was our next stop in Sri Lanka. I picked it on our quest for diving with whales but found out we missed the season by a few weeks. After our less than impressive diving in Unawatuna we decided not to dive in Hikaduwa and just to hang out.

There is a nice beach area at we were lucky enough to be at the point of it around 5:00 when the large turtles come to shore to feed. We couldn’t believe our luck when we walked up and there were about 10 5′ turtles hanging out looking for food. For a dollar or two you can buy some seaweed and feed these beautiful turtles yourself. It was so incredible to watch them in the water and then to feed them. They were friendly but competitive with each other for food. There are locals around to make sure you don’t hurt, or touch the turtles, they want you to just let them move around you and be as natural as possible. Every time we touch creatures in the ocean we take a risk of hurting them and also causing them to get sick from our bacteria etc. (If you want to feed the turtles they come in at around (9:30 am and 5 pm everyday by the Cinnamon hotel).

We also took a drive, about 20 minutes outside of Hikaduwa to an amazing turtle hatchery and sanctuary. On our way back our tuk-tuk driver stopped in front of this gorgeous Buddha statue. He was so proud of how beautiful it was, how it was standing in a very unique position for a Buddha, and to tell us the story of how it was a donation from a famous Japanese artist after the tsunami in 2004. The Buddha was HUGE and stood proudly on a small pond looking out at the water. It was a beautiful white color which reflected the gorgeous island sun.

Next to the temple area was a little tsunami museum, Tsunami Honganji Temple. J. didn’t want to go in because the sadness of it is so painful for him. I did go in to give a donation and to see the pictures. I met these two sweet men who work every day to greet visitors, maintain the temple and the little one room museum. They each have a tragic story of their own, one losing his wife and child in the tsunami. It is very important to them to honor the people who passed by sharing the stories of that terrible day. The walls are covered with images which are so devastating and heart wrenching I was left wondering how the survivors managed to go on. I couldn’t help but cry a little at the pain and loss but mostly about the incredible resilience of the community. The stories they told of love and loss and help and support were incredible. They remember each country who helped with such fondness and gratitude.

At the end of my visit one of the men took white string and tied it around my wrist, gave me a blessing and said a little prayer. It was the most beautiful gift, and I wear it still with honor.

Hikaduwa had a special feeling to it, maybe because of what they have endured or just because it is in a special place in Sri Lanka. We really enjoyed our time here. The Sri Lankan people were so sweet, and friendly we just couldn’t get enough of them.

There are some cute shops in the area, a great art gallery and a wonderful restaurant Aroma to eat! We stayed at a little villa we found on Airbnb and loved it!

Make sure you stop and watch the fishermen who fish on sticks in the ocean. It is absolutely incredible to watch their balance and skill!

As we left we were lucky enough to stop at a temple over the water in Matara where we were blessed by a monk for the Sri Lankan New Year. He also took the white string and tied it around our wrists. The string is a symbol of living a long and happy life full of blessings. I still have mine on, I am afraid if I take it off I am cursing myself, lol.

Unawatuna, Sri Lanka

Unawatuna is a little beach town in the southeastern side of Sri Lanka. When I booked our time there it was primarily for diving. I was under the mistaken impression that there was a chance to dive with whales in Unawatuna. This ended up not being the case, in fact we only dove one day because the diving was really not great.

However, we did have a great time in Unawatuna seeing the sights and just enjoying the very chill vibe in town. There are some incredible views of the ocean, and romantic dinners on the beach in Unawatuna which make this town even more endearing.

The first day we toured Galle Fort, which is about a 25 minute ride via tuk-tuk from Unawatuna. The fort was built in the late 1500’s by the Portugese and then extensively fortified by the Dutch in the late 1600’s. It is now a place of entertainment, with snake charmers and other street performers, eating, shopping, touring and houses some very nice hotels. We spent the afternoon there and were quite surprised by how upscale the shops were, and many of the restaurants.

There are beautiful ocean views, monkeys, good food, and some pretty interesting sites. One thing we did notice was the prices are very high here.

If you get hungry there are some good vegetarian restaurants along the way, and also a nice restaurant called Sugar in the Dutch Hospital. We were disappointed in the maritime museum but understand they are trying to rebuild after the tsunami.

We toured a “museum” there which was a huge collection of all kinds of crazy antiques by one jewel dealer. It was pretty cool to see everything he had collected over the years, as well as watch people make lace as they used to, and to show how they cut gems by hand. It was free to enter, but they do try to sell you some jewelry on the way out.

We also spent time in the little shops in the town, and ate at a great beachfront restaurant called Kingfisher, very romantic!

The second day in Unawatuna we dove. As I said earlier I wouldn’t really recommend Unawatuna for diving, it is mostly just rocks and very bad visibility. We did manage to see an octopus though who was quite cool.

One thing we weren’t really prepared for was the stories of the impact of the tsunami on Unawatuna. It pretty much wiped out the entire town when it hit in 2004. Everyone here was affected in some way and while the town has done an amazing job recovering you can still see areas they are working to rebuild. We were especially touched by this sign in one of the restaurants.

The rest of our trip we spent relaxing, enjoying our amazing view of the ocean, and eating yummy wood fired pizza!

The drive from Yala to Unawatuna was really interesting. The government is moving the capital from Colombo to this area and they have rebuilt an entire city here to move the capital. There are also some amazing ocean views along the way. It took us about 4 1/2 hours to get from Yala to Unawatuna with a driver.

Visiting Yala National Park-Sri Lanka

During our first week in Sri Lanka we made the journey to Yala National Park in the hopes of seeing leopards. Yala has the largest population of leopards in Sri Lanka, however, you are still very lucky if you get to see a leopard.

We had an amazing driver from Nuwara Eliya to Yala. The drive through Nuwara Eliya and Ella was absolutely incredible and can not be missed! We drove on the edge of the road through lush green mountains, bright green tea plantations, villages, road side vegetable stands and amazing switchbacks. There were Hindu and Buddhist temples alongside the roads as well as dogs, school children and colorful markets. The serenity and majesty of the mountains, and waterfalls were unlike anything we have ever experienced.

When we arrived at Yala, after about 6 hours of driving, we amazed at the change in landscape. The mountainous terrain had given way to flat marshy land filled with palm trees, and an almost desert landscape. While not the same majestic view as the mountains it was gorgeous.

We stayed in “luxury” tents outside of the national park. While luxury is not the word I would use to describe it, even though the price certainly was, it was still a different experience.

In the afternoon we headed out to our first safari, driven by a guide in a 4 x 4 vehicle. Before we even entered the national park we spotted wild boar, water buffalo and several species of birds. It was hot, so if you go bring water! As we entered the national park the paved roads gave way to bumpy dirt roads and we suddenly felt like we were on safari.

That afternoon we spotted peacocks, elephants and deer along with more water buffalo and birds. The rock formations in the park were awe-inspiring. Along the journey we were surprised by quick glimpses of the beautiful ocean beyond the park.

While we weren’t crazy about the accommodations the men who worked there made a great dinner for us under the stars complete with my new favorite thing, curd. This is made with buffalo milk, prepared in clay pots similar to the way yogurt is prepared and then served with local honey. Delicious!!!

The next morning we were up at 5:30 am to search for leopards, which had alluded us the day before. The drivers at the park work really hard to find the leopards for all of the visitors but they are not easy to find, and in fact completely impossible for us. We did see a wild boar who had been killed by a leopard but then left as he waited for the trucks to leave to enjoy his meal. The journey was fun, we spotted some baby elephants with their mommy and others taking a bath and playing which was great fun. It was nice to see them in the wild, enjoying life as it should be for them.

I had the biggest laugh over this boar “shopping” as we entered the park in the morning.

Even though we didn’t see a leopard it was still a great experience to drive through Yala National Park searching for the elusive leopard. Since we didn’t see him I now have a reason to come back and keep searching!

Adam’s Peak-Not Adam’s Peak Sri Lanka

When we first decided to go to Sri Lanka it was for two reasons. First to try to dive with blue whales, second to climb Adam’s Peak. The latter is a really crazy thing since J and I are NOT in anyway shape or form climbers or hikers. The lure to do this pilgrimage was really strong though and we absolutely love a challenge.

After a crazy trip to get to Colombo, Sri Lanka (10:50 pm flight cancelled, rushing around to try to book on another airline last minute so we wouldn’t miss our driver etc.) we landed late at night, went to bed and tried to rest for our big hike the next day up Adam’s Peak.

The four hour trip from Colombo to Dalhousie, where we stayed to be close to the start of Adam’s Peak was one of the most beautiful drives I have ever taken in my life. We were all very sleep deprived, but couldn’t close our eyes for a second or else we might miss something. Everywhere our heads would turn and our eyes would wander there were gorgeous tree covered mountains, breathtaking waterfalls, and perfectly landscaped tea plantations. We were all completely gob smacked. Nothing could have prepared us for the incredible beauty of this island.

Unlike Thailand there was no garbage anywhere. The streets, yards, and stores were immaculate. You could feel the pride as you drove through each town, passed each river, stream or temple. What a relief!

We booked a room at the Wathsala Inn in Dalhousie. We weren’t sure what to expect as this really is a backpackers town. The food was amazing! They served authentic Sri Lankan cuisine with the most incredible views of the mountain we were about to climb. Our room was nice with a huge balcony overlooking a stream and the path of Adam’s Peak. We sat and contemplated our future activity, quite intimidated but really pumped for the challenge.

At 1:40 a.m. our alarms went off and we were on our way by 2:00 a.m. The darkness masked the distance and intensity of what lay before us. As we made our way up the hill from our hotel we were thinking about the 5,800 stairs that awaited us, and all the steps in between. There were some stores open selling rain coats, fleeces, etc. and a few pastries-budding entrepreneurs at every corner.

There is only one path up and down so it is easy to find your way without a guide. After you walk through the little shopping area there is a large Buddha statue and an arch welcoming you to the climb. We walked in darkness, with small lights along the path to light your steps. It wasn’t until we descended that we would understand the beauty of the mountain we were to conquer.

The steps vary along the way, some flat, some sloped, some steep, some long and thin, some dirt, some concrete and some stone. This makes the climb interesting and probably better so you aren’t just working the same muscles. As we climbed we met some people and talked to them along the way. We would rest, they would pass us and vice versa. A bond would start to form, and the feeling of humanity became stronger the higher we went. We became each others cheerleaders, advisors and friends.

We stopped at one area to say a little prayer and light some incense, it was at this moment that I believe sheer will kicked in. We had been climbing for 3 hours and were feeling the muscle tearing, and exhaustion. There are bathrooms along the way but I was careful to not drink too much so I wouldn’t have to stop on the way up.

As the climb went on we were greeted with the most gorgeous stars, and trees that would be quietly lit from the path lights. The majesty of this mountain was starting to reveal itself. I believe these are little rewards from nature to keep you going when all you have left is pure will. I am not trying to be dramatic here, I realize I wasn’t climbing Mt. Everest or anything but the climb is hard, especially for those of us who are over 40 and don’t climb anything regularly. I felt pretty good at certain points when I would pass younger people along the way, or when I would hear them just as out of breath as me (I know it is petty but hey, I am over 40 I have to hang on to everything I can…).

I believe the last hour of the climb is nothing but the will to conquer one step at a time. There are so many moments when you feel you have reached the top and are not close. The lovely locals will cheer you on telling you only a little ways left and for a few steps that is great but then the overwhelming journey closes in again. I learned not to look up, only to look at where I was and how far I had come. This is really a lesson in life isn’t it!?!

I reached the top, in about 4 hours, the sun starting to rise. As I pulled myself up the incredibly steep stairs at the end I couldn’t believe the gift laying before me. Every step, every ache, every movement was for the moment when I could see the sun rise over the mountains and welcome in a new day of possibility. I am not sure what happened to me, whether it was the locals carrying their family members to the top when I could barely get myself there, or the men carrying huge bags of rice on their shoulders in front of me or the Sri Lankans walking up barefoot to their sacred temple, or just the reminder that we are all the same, we climb, we trek, we love, we challenge, we yearn and we journey and when we do it together it is so much sweeter, whatever it was I was completely overcome with emotion. As J rounded the corner about 20 minutes behind me I broke. I flooded with tears and joy and couldn’t hold it in. The orange glow of the sun, the mist of the clouds, and shimmer of the lakes below were in their own way the most beautiful scenery I have ever witnessed. Never in my life have I felt so strongly the blessing of being alive to start a new day. I have never physically seen the feeling I have in the morning of being lucky to wake up in this beautiful world full of possibility.

There is a point where I was close to the top and a banner across said “Not Adam’s Peak” I found this a little deflating, my thought was maybe they could have written something like, “Almost there” or “Just A Little Farther” you know a little encouragement but hey, I went on anyway despite the sign and maybe even a little more determined because of it (I would find out later what the sign meant, which was not to be discouraging at all.).

I will not lie to you, the way down was not fun. It was grueling and almost impossible. I tried to distract myself with the beautiful landscape below, with cheer leading about how awesome it was I made it, with a stop to eat some peanuts, and pee in a gross hole with no bathroom door, to walk zig-zag, backwards, sideways and straight on down the steps, but in the end my legs were collapsing beneath me, quivering as I tried to take each step and stair. I thought I wouldn’t make it , and felt pretty bad as the elderly Sri Lankan women slowly walked past me with smiles on their faces. I too was smiling but it didn’t seem the same. They seemed to have a grace I was severely lacking. I have no idea how I made it down that mountain, but I did and as we entered the little town of Dalhousie I considered crawling the rest of the way back to the hotel.

In the end we made the trek up and back in 7 hours. We climbed over 5,800 stairs and took over 24,000 steps. I believe in the end it changed who I am and I will be forever grateful. Even though walking the next few days was excruciating I would do it all over again in a second.

As I said before the sign about “Not Adam’s Peak” has a meaning for the Sri Lankan Buddhist people. The mountain to them is and has always been “Sri Padaya”. It translates to “Big Buddha Foot”. The way they told me the story is that the footprint at the top of mountain is the footprint of Buddha, it has always been that way for them until recently. The name Adam’s Peak they say comes from the Muslim people who have moved into Sri Lanka and have claimed that the footprint is in fact not Buddha’s but Adam’s. They are not happy about this, but they are Buddhist so they don’t fight it either.

Here are my tips for climbing Big Buddha Foot:

Start no later than 2 a.m.
Do not go on the weekend or a holiday. We went on Thursday and the temple was jam packed with people by 6 a.m.
Don’t carry anything up with you but a little water, money and a camera.
In March it was not cold on top of the mountain. We prepared for cool weather and really regretted all the extra clothing (I get cold in 80 degree weather so believe me when I say it isn’t cold.)
Buy water and fruit along the way.
Bring toilet paper and hand wipes and be prepared for bad bathroom conditions.
Focus on the journey and not the steps.
Stop to admire the natural beauty on the way down, it is worth it!
Please don’t stand forever in the temple, remember other people climbed who want to see it as well. I took amazing photos coming back down as the sun rose, you can too.
Stay in Dalhousie to be as close to the beginning as possible.
Don’t plan any big events for the next day or two, you will be sore.
If you stay at the Wathsala Inn, which I would highly recommend, and you need a driver ask for DeLanka. He was not only a great driver but an AMAZING tour guide as well!!!
I climbed the mountain with 60+ year olds who were amazing. So the climb is possible for every age.
Once you enter the arch it is a sacred and holy place remember that and follow their customs.

Tips For Traveling In Thailand

After 5 weeks of traveling throughout Thailand here are our tips for enjoying and sometimes surviving in Thailand:

Toilet Paper. Bring some toilet paper, tissues, napkins, whatever, with you everywhere you go. Thai people do not use toilet paper, instead they use a bidet system. So, if you are accustomed to toilet paper bring your own.
You can not flush toilet paper down the toilet in Thailand. You must use the trash can to get rid of it.
Learn how to squat and pee if you are a woman. Many places only have squat toilets available. These are porcelain covered holes in the ground. You will have to squat over them to pee and most often put water in them to flush. It is definitely different so don’t be shocked when you see them.
Wipes. These are a must. Most public toilets (including restaurants) do not have soap. So, in order to maintain a western ideal of sanitation, bring your own wipes.
Get comfortable negotiating. Tuk-Tuk drivers and Taxi drivers will always try to charge you the highest price possible so learn to negotiate until you feel you are getting a good price. We tried to ask around first to see about what it should cost so we knew where to start with our negotiations.
Remember you are in a foreign country. Please don’t expect the Thai people to speak your language, accept your currency, or do things the way you are used to at home. Be patient with them, our experience is they will always try to work with you to make sure you get what you are asking for, or find the information you need.
Vegetarians bring alternate protein sources. After living on almonds and protein powder for most of our 5 week trip it is so important to have alternate food options. I do not eat fish so most dishes were not an option for me. Ask if there is fish sauce, or even more so these little dried shrimps they use in all the sauces.
Bring something for upset stomach. Regardless of whether you like the food or not more than likely your body is going to go through some if not a lot of adjustment to Thai food so be prepared.
Don’t be afraid to talk to the Pharmacists. Usually someone at the pharmacy speaks pretty decent English or through pointing and hand gestures you can help them understand what is wrong and they can help get you what you need, even if it is only aspirin or saline.
Go to a few night markets. We chose to go to the markets in Ayutthaya, Chiang Rai, and Chiang Mai. They are not all created equal but are a fun way to see the culture, find some interesting food to try (unless you are a vegetarian), and even find some souvenirs if you want.
Be careful of Tuk-Tuk scams in Bangkok. They like to pick tourists up and then try to get them to go to certain jewelry stores, clothing stores etc. because they get gas coupons or money to take you there. BE FIRM about where you want to go.
Temple burnout. It is easy for this to happen so try to find a balance between the temples, museums, and other activities. Or, remind yourself you are only here for a little while and power through, most of them are definitely worth seeing.
Don’t be afraid to take the buses. We took the Green Line buses and the red buses and never had a problem. The Green Line VIP bus is air conditioned with a decent bathroom while the red bus is air conditioned but the bathroom leaves a lot to be desired. You can book ahead using 12GoAsia.com.
We flew Bangkok Airways many times in our travels. If you fly with them and join their rewards program you get an extra 10 kilo of luggage weight per person who joins. Definitely worth it!
While AirAsia may be cheap be sure to check all of the extra charges to make sure it is still cheap for you. We ended up paying over 100.00 in baggage fees one trip!
Call your bank and credit card company to let them know where you are going. If you are going to use your ATM card find out what your daily limit is and what they charge you for foreign transactions. Check with your bank at home to see what their exchange rate is for Thai currency, it may be a good idea to get some before you travel.