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What To See In Bangkok

Bangkok is a bustling city, as the largest one in Thailand it is not only full of people, traffic and temples, it is also full of attitude, scams and pollution. For us Bangkok was the low point of our 5 week journey through Thailand. If I was to plan our trip over again I would spend one to two days in Bangkok, see two places and then see the rest of the country.

Here is what we saw.

Wat Pho. This incredible temple and monastery was definitely our highlight in Bangkok. There are many temples each one with their own Buddha, and each one worth seeing and taking the time to pray or make an offering. Of course while you are there you have to see the reclining Buddha who is 138 feet (46 meters) long. He is absolutely remarkable. It gets really crowded in the temple so you can’t spend much time there but make sure to check out the design on his feet, and to spend 20 thb to make offerings in the bowls along one wall. This is done in lieu of food offerings. For me this was an amazing moment as I said small prayers along the way.

There are several hallways filled with large statues of Buddha, all gold, which are worth seeing as well. Enjoy the water features and lotus gardens in the pots are you walk through the complex. This is still a functioning monastery so you will see many monks coming and going which is pretty incredible. As one of the largest temple complexes in Bangkok make sure you allow yourself enough time to not only tour the area but sit on a shaded bench and enjoy the architecture.

Definitely get there early in the morning before all of the tour groups do so you can enjoy the reclining Buddha. If you are visiting the Grand Palace they are located right next to each other so make sure to take the time to visit Wat Pho.

Grand Palace. While there are certainly beautiful buildings here it was a very big disappointment. The jade Buddha is so small and far away you can barely see it after you fight the people, tour groups and lines to get in. Even though we went early in the morning there were so many people that moving around was hard, and appreciating the architecture was almost impossible. The rest of Thailand offers architecture, Buddhas and surroundings that are much better and more easily enjoyed. Definitely be careful here of the men outside who act like they are helping and offering to get you tuk-tuks for a low price, they are a part of a huge scam where they take complete advantage of tourists.

Temple of Dawn. Wat Arun This beautiful Wat was definitely worth the trip over the Chao Phraya River. The temples are constructed using Chinese porcelain pieces, much different than the rest of the temples we had seen in Thailand. It is an architectural symbol of Mount Meru, the center of the world in Buddhist cosmology. There are four corner prangs at Wat Arun which each have the guardian of the gods. These are quite impressive and again decorated in porcelain pieces. The center spire stands majestically at 210 feet (70 meters) high. The walls of the ordination hall are beautifully decorated with Buddhist paintings. We were not able to climb to the top since it is under repair, but given the height I was glad to have an excuse to not climb. It was very cheap to get to, about 3 thb to cross and 50 thb to tour. As one of the most impressive and unique Wats in Thailand it is not to be missed!

I was really shocked by the horrible air conditions in Bangkok. When we traveled downtown I found it almost impossible to breathe and had an almost immediate headache. It is quite dirty all over Bangkok, with overly crowded markets, and much less friendly people than we experienced anywhere else in Thailand. It is obvious that tourism has taken much away from the locals in Bangkok which was not great to see, I felt guilty for being part of the loss of their culture, clean air and traditions. While there are other things to do in Bangkok we felt like the rest of the country had much more to offer and really regretted that we scheduled 3 days in Bangkok.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Sitting atop the Doi Suthep mountain overlooking the second largest city in Thailand, Chiang Mai, is the Wat Phra That. To get there is pretty easy, you can take a tuk-tuk or hire a driver. It is about a 21 km drive up the mountain. The views of the city were quite beautiful along the way and at the look out points. We were definitely surprised by how big the city was, and unfortunately by the amount of brown smog hanging over the city (thus the lack of view pics in this post). It was pretty cool to stand at the top and watch the planes take off from Chiang Mai Airport.

The rumor has it that there was a special relic, many people claim it is the Gautama Buddha’s shoulder bone, which was put on the back of white elephant by King Nu Naone of Lan Na after it broke in two pieces. The one piece made it up to the top of Doi Suthep with the white elephant. It is said that when the elephant reached the top it trumpeted 3 times and then fell over dead. The people took this as a sign and built a monastery and temple here.

Once you reach the top of Doi Suthep you have two options to get to the temple. We took the easy route, the tram and opted to take the 309 steps down instead of up. We have been walking an average of 8 miles per day in Thailand so the thought of taking 309 steps up wasn’t that appealing on a 92 degree day. Plus who doesn’t love a tram ride packed full of people…That is the one thing we weren’t prepared for, the people! Once you arrive at the top to buy tickets or climb the steps be prepared, there are tons of people and tour groups. Don’t worry it thins out at the top and you don’t feel so overwhelmed by the masses (although it is still pretty full).

At the top you will not be let in unless you are properly dressed, women don’t show your knees or shoulders, men don’t show your knees. This is pretty much the way it is everywhere in Asia so it is just good practice to remember this whenever you are visiting a temple.

Once you step inside there is so much to take in! The temple, which was built originally in 1383, now has both Buddhist and Hindu statues and influence. Inside there are people pouring oil and praying, or walking in prayer three times around the center of the temple (this was really incredible and moving to watch). I wanted to join in but all of the prayers were written in other languages…

I was so lucky that while we were there a Buddhist monk was giving blessings. My best friend (who joined us with her husband for 3 weeks) were able to be blessed. As we approached he asked us, in the cutest English, where we were from, then gave us the blessing and prayed. It was such a special experience for us both.

All along the roof line of the temple there are bells hanging. They sound amazing as the mountain top breeze blows through the temple. As a donation you can buy a bell and write on it and then hang it in the temple. As we always do, J and I bought one and left our message there. We also signed the huge scroll that was there for everyone to sign. All through Thailand we have relished the opportunity to leave a little message to mark our passing through, and send our wishes.

The architecture and statues in the temple were really breathtaking. There were so many small Buddha statues and little areas to pray and worship, it never felt overwhelming to be there with so many people. The surroundings of the mountain view felt like you were at the top of the country.

One of the little alcoves had people in it shaking a canister of sticks. We asked them what they were doing, since most alcoves are people praying. They explained to us that you shake the canister until one stick comes out. The stick has a number on it, then you go to the telling wall and find that number and there is a little message on it. That message is supposed to give you advice or guide you. We were told that if you get one you don’t like you can just put it back and move on or try again. J really loved that!

There was a strong sense of community in the Wat Phra That that I hadn’t felt anywhere else. I don’t know if it was the people chanting prayers as they walked in circles around the main stupa or if it was the amount of people praying, the monks blessing or the whole thing put together but whatever it was we found it to be one of the best temple experiences we had in Thailand.

When you leave the temple walk around at the top, take in the views and the architecture, the big bells and the meditation area. Then, descend the 309 steps and be ready for the merchants in their stalls all trying to sell you something!

You should be able to take a tuk-tuk to the top for around 800 thb and have them wait for you there or you can hire a driver and combine it with other events for the day, or just this single journey. We opted for the driver since there were four of us. It takes about 25-30 minutes to get to Doi Suthep and maybe an hour or so to walk around. As it really was the most spectacular temple we saw in Chiang Mai make sure to put it on your list.

Two Days in Sukhothai Thailand

The ancient city of Sukhothai and the town of Sukhothai were definitely one of our favorite places in Thailand. Not only was I able to find yummy Thai food (at last!) as well as finding a quaint, easy to navigate town with an amazing history and a gorgeous hotel.

Historical Sukhothai is about 45 sq km. As we approached the beautiful historic city I can easily understand why it is one of the most visited sites in all of Thailand. While many people take a tour bus for the day from Bangkok we chose to stay for two days. I am so glad we did. Sukhothai is a very laid back town with not a lot to do aside from the historical city. This was a welcomed break for us and we loved the laid back vibe and friendly people.

One of the highlights of our trip was riding our bikes (rented for about 100 bht from our hotel) through the historic city and the surrounding area. I would definitely recommend doing this as we happened upon some great photo opportunities and were able to stop and enjoy some tea and coffee along the way in the coffee shop.

The historical city of Sukhothai was the first kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Kingdom has been credited with many inventions and developments of the Siamese (Thai) culture including the Thai architecture known as the “Sukhothai style”.

The most famous king who ruled Sukhothai was King Ramkhamhaeng who was considered the found father of the Thai Nation. There is a beautiful monument in his honor at the historical site. He is credited with creating the beginning of the Thai alphabet.

The Sukhothai kingdom is credited with many achievements in art, language, writing, law and architecture. They even had a hydraulic engineering system with reservoirs, ponds, flood control and canals.

The royalty encouraged the growth of Buddhism which is evident in the surviving temples. They also built monasteries honoring and teaching about the Lord Buddha. King Ramkhamhaeng was responsible for making Buddhism the official religion of Thailand, which is how it remains today.

I was determined to visit Wat Sri Chum. It is is about 500m west of the historical city. The largest Buddha is there standing about 36 ft (11m) wide and 49 ft (15m) high. The Buddha is surrounded by brick walls. It is said that a commander asked a soldier to go into the Wat to deliver a message to the troops standing outside. The troops didn’t see the soldier enter and when they heard him speak they thought it was a message directly from Buddha. They were mesmerized and ever since Wat Sri Chum has had the nickname of the whispering Buddha.

This incredible Buddha is worth the visit. If you can go at sunrise or sunset I would highly recommend it. We were a little too late for both but caught the last bit of each and were still incredibly impressed!

(The gold leaf you see on the Buddhas is actually part of an offering placed on the Buddha by locals.)

We ventured into town on the first night for some Thai food and found Sukhothai noodles. This dish is absolutely amazing and must be tried! We loved it so much we went back for it the next night. Almost all of the restaurants serve it so you shouldn’t have a problem. The veggies are delicious with the noodles and the spicy sauce. Plus it is can easily be vegetarian without sacrificing all the flavor like some of the other Thai dishes.

We had a driver to Sukhothai as we were coming from the River Kwai, but you can easily take a train or bus from Bangkok and Chiang Mai. You can fly into Sukhothai if you are coming from Bangkok or Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai.

As I said we loved our hotel, the Legendha Sukhothai. It was pretty authentic, with an amazing staff and the perfect location. We walked to the back of the hotel and were right next to an ancient Wat! Spend an afternoon by the pool and you won’t be sorry. They even make an amazing mixed green salad, my first and only in Thailand!

Black House (Baan Dam) of Chiang Rai Thailand

Heading outside of Chiang Rai to Baan Dam or the Black House we had no idea what to expect. The entire compound is the creative genius of the Thai artist Thawan Duchanee. We were told by our driver that he was a very important artist to the Thai people but how does that translate to an artistic compound in the middle of nowhere?

As we pulled up to the compound with our driver I immediately understood. The elegance, sophistication, creativity and quirkiness of Thawan Duchanee was immediately mesmerizing and moving. (Notice the upside down Buddha head at the top of the building.)

Each building is a statement, filled with animal hides, animal bones, buddhas, and a sense of spirituality sorely lacking in most of the rest of the tourist spots in Thailand. The black buildings which stood as a tribute to Thai architecture of the past, combined with the expression of this modern artist immediately transport you to a place where traditional Buddhist values meet modern artistic expression. I could not stop gaping at the gorgeous natural wood carvings against the black buildings.

As a vegetarian I was a little uncomfortable with all the animal hides, bones and skulls of dead animals however the sheer massivity of the first building we entered over rode the creepiness of the dead animal parts. The rafters, and tables, artwork and antiques which fill this humongous building are just awe inspiring and after all of the white temples the black was a refreshing change. The building is filled with symbolism of Buddha’s life and interpretation by Duchanee about the Buddhist religion.

Outside of the main building we wandered the grounds looking at all of the amazing architecture, the antiques and more animal hides, bones and skulls. While most buildings are closed the architecture is worth it. Duchanee used the buildings while he was alive and it is said that famous people, religious leaders and politicians also visited here to worship. Some of the buildings have glass windows which are floor-to-ceiling so you can look into the buildings and see how they are arranged for visitors, sleeping or eating.

On the opposite side of the property are the white domes, or igloo shaped buildings. They are painted differently on the outside but all seem to have reference to the third eye, or all seeing eyes, or whatever your interpretation of them is. They are set up differently inside and can be entered. There was a lot of American Indian influence in the buildings which were set up with chairs in circles, animal hides, the most massive shells we had ever seen, and more bones. J was really impressed with the absolutely perfect acoustics in each building (we may have tested this with itunes…).

The fish shaped building was the bedroom of Thawan Duchanee when he would stay on the property. Unfortunately you can not go in but you can look through the windows. It was the only space we saw with an actual store bought leather couch instead of the animal horn furniture.

His collection of antiques, and even the full skeleton of an elephant were quite amazing!

There is a gift shop but it does close at 12:00 for lunch as does the art gallery.

We hired a driver to take us to the Black House and wait. I would definitely recommend having a driver wait for you as tuk-tuk’s are not readily available here.

J and I both loved the Black House. It was such a creative break from all of the other Wat’s in Thailand. The serenity of the grounds and the details in his designs were absolutely wonderful and a must see in Thailand. It is easy to get overwhelmed and burnt out with all of the temples so the Black House is a welcome change.

It should only take an hour or two to tour Baan Dam so afterwards you can roam the city of Chiang Rai or visit some of the other Wat’s that are lesser known or travel over to the White Temple for more creative expression of the Buddhism.

The White Temple of Chiang Rai

From the moment we pulled up to Wat Rong Khun, or the White Temple, we were completely mesmerized. A short 5 km drive south of the city did not prepare us for the completely different experience we would have at this temple versus any other one we visited in Thailand.

The red skull cones which mark the area of the temple notify you immediately that you have entered a new type of Wat (temple). This one is the creation of the Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. He has laid out the plans for the temple as a 9 building area whose main temple will not be complete until 2020. I was reminded of the Gaudi Sagrada Familia in Barcelona as we approached. The artist used his vision of Buddhism, kharma, heaven, hell and earthly sins.

The White Temple is white to represent the pure sacredness of temples. The white mirrored pieces reflect the light of the sky making the temple almost otherworldly.

The symbolism is everywhere. Before you enter the gate you are met with two pieces to represent Buddha’s teachings that we should not abuse our bodies, so no smoking and no drinking.

There were pots hanging from trees growing moss which had the coolest faces, some laughing, some evil looking. I felt as though they were representing the different spirits of the underworld.

Once we bought tickets (required only for foreigners, locals get to visit for free) we started our walk towards the main temple. Along the path are gorgeous sculptures of fire breathing beasts in a mote type of water feature. They lead the way to purgatory filled with hands grasping and different sculptures of creatures and people.

As you walk over the bridge towards the temple the light shimmers off of the pieces of mirrored glass that adorn the White Temple. They make this magnificent white sculpture a shining tribute to the Buddhist faith. At the temple are massive guardians, along with angels, and other beings marking the ascension from purgatory into a holy and sacred place. Unfortunately the incredible Buddha in the temple is not allowed to be photographed.

After seeing the temple you take a path which leads you to long corridors going left and right. At first you hear a soft subtle sounds of metal, like a wind chime blowing in the wind. It is completely enchanting. When you reach the walkway and look up you find the masses of metal flowers and bells hanging from the ceiling moving in the wind and creating this beautiful sound. I could have stood there for days and just listened while taking in this gorgeous temple, J of course would not stand there for days so we bought our own bells, wrote messages and left them to be hung at the temple forever.

The White Temple continually amazes with soft garden spaces, beautiful gold bells, statues and the most creative lost and found I have ever seen. While you are there check out the art gallery which displays the work of this amazing artist.

This building would be the bathroom…

To say that this Wat blew me away and inspired me is an understatement. I consider it one of the best things we did/saw in Thailand. It is worth the trip to Chiang Rai to see this, the Black House and the Night Markets.

Chiang Rai Thailand

As we rode through the streets of Chiang Rai, crouched over to peer out the sides of the tuk-tuk, I found my body filling with relief and excitement. This city was different than the ones we had visited so far. The streets of Chiang Rai are cleaner, lined with flowers and ornate gold posts topped with flying birds or dragons. All were a welcomed change to the bustling, not very clean, cities we had explored before.

We arrived in Chiang Rai via the green line VIP bus, which was comfortable and clean, even providing an actual toilet, not a hole in the floor. Although we had a few frightening moments on the bus traveling downhill and narrowly missing a large log and a car, we really found the bus travel to be quite nice, and much cheaper than the private taxis we were normally taking.

Our hotel was located in the perfect spot, as we found out that evening when we headed out to Walking Street for our second night market experience. We had no idea what we were in for as we entered the massive market. Unlike the market in Ayutthaya the streets of this market are closed to traffic, and it goes on for miles. The hundreds of food booths are filled with different foods than we had seen before like little omelettes cooked in banana leaf boats, or chicken and hot pepper kabobs, and of course some very interesting ways to cook bugs. Unfortunately for me they all were either meat or sweet. Of course for J this is ideal. As we turned the corner we saw hundreds of booths selling clothing, body products, toys and even eyeglasses (overseen by a doctor who would examine your eyes on the spot!). There was a large area filled with tables and families waiting for a dancing group to entertain them.

While many of the side streets were filled with people giving foot massages, we found one with Chiang Rai food trucks. There were three white mini trucks who were breaking tradition with the normal Thai fare and booth atmosphere. Of course J couldn’t resist the burger truck with onion rings. After eating a small cup of strawberries and getting a bit grumpy (as I do when I am STARVING) I found a small little booth serving tofu and sweet potato with bean patties all in a hot chili sauce. I almost cried, but instead opted to just thank them continuously as I shoveled the food in my mouth.

The next day we headed to the White Temple, which is a blog post all on its own. That night we decided to try another night market since we really loved the Walking Street market. I have to say this one did not disappoint. While we found the food to be very similar and most of the items being sold were the same we just love the vibe of the night markets in Chiang Rai. You are really packed in with other people walking around but the bustle of the city dwellers combined with the action of the people cooking and the sound of the dancers is quite invigorating. This market also offered me a HUGE treat. A vegetarian smoothie made with 4 kinds of beans, milk, and honey. I was in heaven!

On our second day we visited the Black House, which is also its own blog post. We were really blown away by both the White Temple and the Black House. Not only were they both beautiful but they were a break from the typical Wat we saw in the rest of Thailand. They felt incredibly spiritual and symbolic.

We hired a driver to stay with us both days which was a great decision. He showed us around some other Wat’s (temples) and told us a lot about the culture of Chiang Rai. We found that drivers will often not charge much more to wait for you at different locations if they stay with you most of the day, so I highly recommend it, especially if you are going to more remote locations where finding a tuk-tuk can be difficult.

On our third and final day we did something we had not done in other cities. We walked around and explored. Chaing Rai felt like the first city that was walking friendly. They actually have sidewalks in many places and you can find little markets tucked behind stores all along the walk. We even found a great vegetarian restaurant and got a foot massage.

While some of the markets were hard for me because there was so much fish and raw meat it is still an experience to weave through these mazes of shops and food vendors. While most of them are barely large enough to walk into, or are covered with tarps or aluminum to keep out the rain, they can sometimes offer little treasures you weren’t expecting, like my 3.50 skirt!

Chiang Rai has its own modern and artistic vibe that we haven’t seen anywhere else. They have also found a balance between a big city, and spiritual center. Located in the Northern part of Thailand it is worth the trip (only a 4 hour bus ride from Chiang Mai) to see a completely different expression of Buddhism, markets and daily life.

I booked our bus tickets on 12GoAsia.com. Our hotel was Le Patta, and we loved it and the amazing internet speed! When we left Chiang Rai we flew to Bangkok which was a quick 1 1/2 hour flight on my favorite, Bangkok Airways.

While in Chiang Rai we did visit the most popular night market, Chiang Rai Night Bazaar, but found it to be very touristy, the food was really lacking in options and quality and vibe was completely different. When in Chiang Rai and looking for great night markets check out the Saturday Night Walking Street market and the Sunday Night Market on Sankhongnoi Road, or Happy Street.

Elephants of Chiang Mai Thailand

Our primary reason for traveling to Thailand was to play with elephants. J saw a video of a woman playing with a baby elephant in Thailand and that was it for him. He had to go.

As I started doing my research I was shocked at how much mistreatment there is of this sacred animal. There are reports of elephants being drugged in order to stay up at night for tourist rides, they are saddled with heavy metal seats and then humans on top all day, they are chained and then made to walk around cities (I saw this firsthand in Ayutthaya and almost started to cry.), or they beaten into submission to perform for humans. We knew whatever we did to play with elephants had to be done at a place that promoted a healthy and happy life for elephants.

I found Chai Lai Orchid house and was so excited to see that it sits right on an elephant preservation. (We later found out they were the company in the video J originally saw!) The Mahouts (elephant caretakers, riders and trainers) at this preservation are very careful about how the elephants are treated, cared for and interacted with. They will not allow the elephants to have the metal seats on their back for their guests. They rent the elephants from Thai’s who own them in order to show the owners there are other ways to make money with elephants besides the cruel tourist practices. To buy an elephant is about 60,000.00 so most sanctuaries can not afford to buy the elephants, they also worry that it would cause a negative message for the elephant owners. The Mahouts do not drug or mistreat the elephants at the sanctuary, working hard to give them the best life and experience in a natural setting that they can.

We took a driver from Ayutthaya to Bangkok and then flew Thai Airways (which I love!) to Chiang Mai. At the Chiang Mai airport it is an hour ride (with a driver) up into the hills to Chai Lai Orchid house.

When we arrived I was so surprised by the elephants right there on the side of the road! We were completely overjoyed to see them eating and hanging out right next to the path to our hotel. The mahouts came and quickly helped us with our luggage, across a steel suspended bridge that crosses the river in front of Chai Lai. I wasn’t expecting a suspended bridge, but hey I am learning to go with things now and not skip a beat.

As we approached the elephants for the first time I was taken aback by their incredibly gentle nature. They are quiet, and relaxed animals. They moved around us with curiousity, and caution while we stood in awe. I was surprised at how small their eyes were and how they seemed to be as interested in seeing me as I was them. We were able to pet them and play with them which felt odd at first. I mean there is this large elephant who is so powerful standing next to you it is intimidating to reach out and pet them or play with their trunks. By the next day though, we had been trained, and had let our guard down and fallen in love.

We spent the next three days playing with the elephants, feeding them, bathing them and watching them. It was really amazing. At first we were shocked to see them chained up at the ankle but learned that it is necessary to keep them off of the road, or from wandering off into the locals farmers gardens where they would not be received well. There are many elephant sanctuaries and retreats in the area and they seem to all follow the same practice.

The elephants spent most of their time eating, corn stalks, bananas, and sugar cane. They also love to swat themselves with the corn stalks, and throw dirt on their backs as a way to get relief from itchy mosquito bites. I was so surprised that a mosquito could penetrate the incredibly thick skin of an elephant. The elephants walk about the area, they bathe in the river and sleep in the hills. They are given baths, brushed with brooms to help the itches, and played with by the Mahouts who clearly love and respect them.

I watched tears fall from my husbands eyes as he interacted with the little baby, and while she made a game of charging him during her bath. They came to trust us, and we them over the course of our stay. We enjoyed their kisses (which feel like a vacuum suction hose), and their playful personalities as they sprayed us in the river. We jumped the first time we heard them roar like a dinosaur, and laughed as they squawked at each other. We jumped a few times realizing these massive animals had just snuck up on us (they literally make no noise as they move through the jungle). I laughed a lot as I watched their trunks swing constantly picking up food, breaking large corn stalks or chomping watermelons or coconuts whole.

There is nothing more humbling than standing in front of this incredible creature, putting your hands on their trunk and petting them as they stare into your eyes. I will never be the same.

We booked Chai Lai through Airbnb. We found a driver at the airport although most of our trip we used 12GoAsia.com to book drivers. We flew Bangkok Airways from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and I can’t say enough about what an awesome airline they are!

Visiting Ayutthaya Thailand

After being out in the country of Thailand I was excited to get to a city and tour some ancient Wat’s (temples) and night markets. We traveled from Khao Yai by private car to Ayutthaya, about a 3 hour car ride. (I love traveling like this, you get to see the countryside, and ride in comfort.)

Ayutthaya is the second capital of Siam, after Sukothai. From 1350-the mid 1700’s it was one of the most important and cosmopolitan cities in the world. In 1767 the Burmese army overtook the city and burnt it to the ground. We started our visit in the remains of the historical city where there are plenty of Wat’s and Buddha statues. In some spots signs of what was there before were left and it was really incredible. The workmanship of laying each brick, planning a city that can survive all it has and still take your breath away left me feeling very humbled.

A Wat was being refurbished and we were able to buy ceiling tiles to help the cause, then write a message and pick the placement of the tiles on the temple. As we wrote our messages we were both really moved to now be part of the history of Ayutthaya forever.

Ayutthaya was the first night market we visited and wow was I amazed. There was over a mile of people cooking any kind of meat and sweet you can imagine. As a vegetarian it was interesting, the first stall we saw was full of crickets and other bugs for people to eat.

There was a lot of grilled squid, maggots, whole fish and prawns and things that I have no idea what they were. Even as much as I hate to see and smell meat cooking it was still a sight to see. The noodle dishes, and curries in huge pots with people stirring and adding spices, herbs and noodles was really incredible.

J, being the meat lover he is, couldn’t get enough. He sampled things he was sure was chicken or shrimp, and loved every bit of it. Then we discovered clay pot dinners, a meat eaters delight. They bring a clay pot with liquid and a fire underneath to your table. Then they bring a huge plate of herbs and veggies and another plate of meat. As J continued to stare at it, in our western world ignorance, one of the staff came, dumped it all in the clay pot, said “Wait ten minute” and walked away. In ten minutes J removed the lid and thought he had gone to heaven.

While in Ayutthaya we also toured, Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, a great museum to check out the treasures left from the war and destruction. It was absolutely fascinating and I would highly recommend the museum if you are in Ayutthaya (it is also a nice respite from the heat). These Buddhas were ALL found in the arm of one of the great Buddhas in the historical park. That is how big the Buddhas around Ayutthaya are/were.

The people in Ayutthaya continue the kindness and generosity we are seeing throughout the country of Thailand. We were given a ride by a local archeologist, J was invited to dig with them the next day, and lovely locals who made sure I saw the one thing I couldn’t leave the city without seeing…(If you want to check it out it is located in Wat Mahathat, turn right as you enter the area and you will see it there.)

There were other very cool Wat’s and more ruins to see around the city, and on the other side of the river, that were off of the beaten path but definitely worth it. They were either part of the ancient history of the city, as monasteries or have been built as the city has grown into itself again after the Burmese war.

We also stayed in an amazing hotel in the middle of everything in Ayutthaya, right on the river with a gorgeous view of an historical Wat. If you go to Ayutthaya I would highly recommend the iudia hotel.

I was very impressed by the sites and the people in Ayutthaya. When in Thailand take a day or two journey to this ancient city. It is easy to get there from Bangkok, either by bus or private car. Getting around is easy in Ayutthaya. We walked most places or hired a Tuk-Tuk to take us around. One day we had a Tuk-Tuk stay with us for most of the day and drive us to the outlying sites, which he charged about 700 baht, a great deal.

I used 12GoAsia to book our car, and Rome2Rio to help plot out the best way to get there.

Morning With The Monks

One thing I love about Thailand is seeing the Monks walking around everywhere. They are so soothing to watch as they go through their daily lives with such grace, dignity and peace. So when we checked in to the beautiful Kirimaya hotel in Khao Yai, Thailand and I found out there was an opportunity to give the monks offerings I could hardly contain my excitement.

I visited a buddhist monastery in Italy when we lived there and it affected me so deeply that I now seek out any opportunity to be around buddhist monks.

On Sunday morning the monks are invited to Kirimaya for the staff and any guests who wish to participate to give them offerings. We paid our 250 baht and were given a beautiful box of food and flowers to give to the monks. I had no idea what to expect but was so elated to have this opportunity.

When the monks arrived there were three of them, all elderly. They walked through the gorgeous antique doors of Kirimaya, carrying their bronze bowls. I have to admit that I started to cry a little as they entered the area, I was really overcome with their grace. They stood next to one another, holding their bowls awaiting our offerings. We all removed our shoes, and then waited our turn to make our offerings. I tried to be one of the last so I could see how I was supposed to do it. Each person either knelt in front of the monk or bowed to them and then placed our offerings on their bowl and then bowed as we walked away. The monks did not look at us, we did not speak to them yet it was so moving to stand in front of them. As I stood in line I again started to get tears in my eyes. Their humility and peacefulness was so moving to me.

I made my offering and bowed and lingered for a moment. I wanted to stand there for longer, absorbing every second of this moment. Once we were all done giving our offerings, the staff and about 20 guests, we were each given an empty glass of water and a full glass of water by the staff. We all knelt on the ground and as the monks prayed we poured the full glass into the empty one. We then knelt as they continued their prayer. It was a beautiful ritual which was deeply moving to both of us even we didn’t understand the words or the symbolism. (Does anyone know what the symbolism of this is? No one spoke English so we couldn’t get an explanation that day.)

After the prayer the monks turned and left. J and I both felt so moved by the experience. We were deeply humbled and blessed by the event. I know it will remain a highlight of our trip in Thailand. It is these experiences, these simple but unique moments that we came to this country to be part of.

Khao Yai National Park-Thailand

I was lucky enough to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Khao Yai yesterday. This national park was formed by the Thai government in 1962. In 2005 it became a UNESCO site.

Phaphon, our tour guide from Jungle Planet, greeted us at our hotel with a broad and glowing smile and a big English “Hello”. My husband briefed him of our intention to hike to the waterfall (the one in the Leonardo DiCaprio movie “The Beach“) from the visitors center. The wonderful Phaphon had a very nice chuckle as he informed my husband that we probably wouldn’t want to hike the 20 miles up the mountain with no trails. So we quickly agreed that was not a good plan and followed the lead of Phaphon.

We didn’t know to ask for a truck where we could sit in the back, but luckily our hotel did. This allowed us great opportunities to take photos, search for animals and enjoy the cool morning breeze.

The first stop was at the overlook into the valley where we had just come from. (The day was hazy so I apologize for the picture.) It was immediately obvious how much pride the Thai citizens take in this special place. As we continued to climb the mountain, searching for one of the 400 elephants in the park, Phaphon stopped the truck and told us quietly that gibbons were just down the road. We walked quietly while Phaphon whispered that a gibbon is a mix between a chimpanzee, an ape and a gorilla. They mate for life, and never leave the trees, even birthing babies in the trees. As we approached the area the gibbons were spotted I couldn’t believe how lucky we were. There was a beautiful golden colored gibbon just hanging out in this perfect ray of sunshine. We watched it and a brown gibbon swing from tree to tree, eat and play around. It was as if they were putting on a show just for us.

We headed back through the park to the visitors center for a cup of coffee and a quick potty break, and a nice little warning sign about the dangers of playing with animals. We also spotted a gorgeous common kingfisher (photographed by my hubby).

Our next stop was at the Haew Suwat waterfall. It is dry season here now so there wasn’t a lot of water but it was still beautiful, peaceful, and serene. The cool breeze coming off of the waterfall felt amazing as the day had started to heat up.

Our ride back was filled with searching for elephants, spotting a few majestic deer and watching a great hornbill male feed his wife who was in a hole in a tree waiting to give birth. He was majestic, and fast!

If you have the pleasure of visiting Thailand I would definitely take the time to visit Khao Yai (about 3 hours northeast of Bangkok by car, which I booked through the parks website). We loved our hotel Kiramaya Golf Resort & Spa and would recommend it not only for its location but for the incredibly gorgeous and peaceful surroundings.