sheriHeidelberg rests between two mountains, stubbornly refusing to change, to give in to the hustle and bustle of the modern world. Its historic charm engulfs me, freezing time, and silencing all but the quiet buzz of the unspoiled city. While it is tempting to lose yourself in the allure of the gingerbread style buildings, we found two days to be enough time to see Heidelberg, Germany.
It had been 15 years since our first visit to Heidelberg. The windy streets had wrapped themselves around my soul, quietly beckoning me to return. As I watched through the windows of the train, idyllic villages rolling by, I was not the least bit tempted to stop. Heidelberg had been on my mind for too long to miss a moment. I wanted to stand on the east side of the Neckar river, in the Neuenheim district, drink a coffee and admire the view of the Heidelberg castle. So, when we arrived that is exactly what we did. Perhaps it is strange that we didn’t jump into the bustle of the tourists journey but I wanted a moment to allow Heidelberg to seduce me, to remind me why we came back.
The Neuenheim district of Heidelberg is more open than the Alstadt (old town). Grand houses line the Neckar river, permanently poised to admire the views of the old town climbing from the river to the Heidelberg castle. Unapologetically they occupy their space, standing guard over the well preserved past. While it is different it serves as an introduction to what is to be found on the other side. Its contrast slowly guides visitors into the seduction.
The connection between these two contrasts is the Karl Theodor brick bridge. It has been rebuilt, yet it maintains its original appearance with gentle arches that lead from one version of Heidelberg to the other. As we walked along the bridge I could almost hear the heartbeat of the old city growing louder, its energy beckoning us to come in. After a brief stop to see the Heidelberg bridge monkey who has been a symbol of the city since the 1500’s, we began our reunion with this fairytale city.
Instead of meandering the tanglement of cobblestoned lanes we chose to make our way directly to the Heidelberg castle. Walking up to the castle is beautiful but in an effort to make the most of the two days in Heidelberg we thought the funicular(Bergbahn) was a better option. Pausing in the charming Kornmarkt square we could feel the magnetism of the castle as it rolls down the hill, the views luring visitors to make their way to its gardens, and historic buildings. Silent promises are made, if one is willing to visit. Momentarily distracted by the offer of Baileys on ice, we once again give in to the allure and begin the exploration of the 13th century complex.
Exploring the terraced gardens, Baileys in hand, I am reminded why I needed to return. Green gardens tumble towards the edge of the hill, delivering stunning views of the valley below, spilling from the convergence of the two hills. Perhaps, it is the atmosphere of Germany in general but I couldn’t help but give thanks that the destruction of WWII only slightly touched Heidelberg.
Amidst the green gardens, brick walls fight to remain standing despite the loss through the past centuries. Delicately carved statues, sculpted arches and ornate decorations are reminders of the grandeur of this former residential palace. Then there is the inside of the castle, stained glass covered hallways, museums and Thun,the world’s largest wine barrel. Once used to hold up to 220,000 liters of wine given as tax payments by local farmers, it now serves as a perfect backdrop for photos and wine tasting.
Alstadt
Navigating the 300 steps down from Heidelberg castle we arrive again in the Kornmarkt square. From here there is no option but to give into the seduction, to agree to give oneself completely to the fairytale. Which is the only thing one actually wants to do. Quickly the colorful buildings, like an abstract color palette, transport us to another time, another way of life, one we don’t want to leave. I imagine Mark Twain as a boy as he wandered the uneven cobblestone lanes. His words ring truer with each step I take: “I have never enjoyed a view which had such a serene and satisfying charm, a fallen Milky Way … its intricate cobweb of streets jeweled with twinkling lights.” quote from “A Tramp Abroad”.
Alstadt is home to Heidelberg University, Germany’s oldest university. Regal buildings, quaint gardens and beautiful courtyards buzz with the energy and dreams of the students who flow from building to building. The history of Heidelberg serves as an inspiration for the future here, not a hindrance. Amongst the buildings to visit is the old student detention center, where students were once held for minor offenses. Now the building is dedicated to poetry and art contributed by the creative minds of the students, past and present.
Heidelberg Marktplatz
The center of the energy of Heidelberg is Heidelberg Marktplatz. The bustle of the residents, tourists, and students all converge here. Energy builds from the street performers, the subtle roar of the conversations in the open air bars and cafes and the scurrying of business people sliding through the maze of fountains, tables, tourists and photographers. Unlike other European squares it is not overwhelming, somehow balanced by the baroque and renaissance architecture. Hercules, dripping with water from the Baroque fountain, is a symbol of the strength and determination of the city. Standing in this square, absorbing every sensation the spell is cast, the cobweb tightens, and no one seems to mind.
Each step of the Alstadt is a new discovery, between the historic architecture, the kaleidoscope of colors, quaint shops, carved doorways, and delicate iron signs hanging over bars, shops and restaurants. No place is more delightful to each sense than the Hauptstrasse, the longest pedestrian street in Europe. Perhaps the only indication that the Hauptstrasse is a mile long is the plethora of shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, florists, and endless activity experienced during a stroll. It was a great street to leave Jim at an outside table to people watch while I meandered through the shops, lingering in front of the colorful floral displays, and soaking in each detail of the buildings.
Our favorite place to spend the evening was on a side street first eating dishes of spätzle and then moving on to a tiny bar full of frothy pints of beer, ambient lighting and dark wood tables. A little too late, after a bit too much beer we returned to our hotel, content at having once again passed two days in Heidelberg, full of just as much wonder and joy as the first time.
No other city we have visited in Germany felt more authentic, alive, progressive and old-fashioned, inviting and unreal as Heidelberg. Perhaps that is why, even after a second visit, I still find it pulls at my soul, beckoning me back.
Places to visit in Heidelberg In Two Days:
Hauptstrasse-mile long pedestrian street full of shops, hotels, restaurants and bars
Bookstores– Heidelberg is a UNESCO city of literature, let your inner bookworm enjoy the bookstores that can be found throughout the city
Heidelberg Castle (Schloss Heidelberg)-the 13th century castle standing gallantly on the hill above the Aldstadt
Heidelberg Tun-the world’s largest wine barrel, built in 1751, located in the Heidelberg castle
Aldstadt-wander the lanes of the historic part of Heidelberg
Heidelberg Bridge Monkey-bronze statue at the end of the Karl Theodore bridge. The 15th century symbol was placed there in 1979 to symbolize that neither the residents of the city or those living outside of it are better than the other. Notice the mirror there to remind people to look over their shoulder as they cross the bridge to remind themselves of where they have come from.
Karl Theodore Bridge-The bridge is only 70 years old but is an exact replica of the 9th version built in 1788. It was bombed by German troops at the end of World War 2 to stop Allied forces from entering Heidelberg.
Heidelberg University & the old detention center-the oldest university in Germany, located in the Aldstadt. If you are able to visit the Grand hall it is a spectacular example of German architecture.
Haus Zum Ritter-a hotel built in the 1500’s which is the oldest burgher house in Heidelberg
Neuenheim district-explore the streets and take in the architecture here. You can also take the 2km Philosopher’s Walk which begins in this district and ends in Philsophengärtchen. There are gorgeous views of the city and the landscape along the walk.
How to Get There:
We took the train from the Frankfurt airport which took just over an hour and winds through beautiful countryside and quaint villages.
We have also driven from Frankfurt which was easy and fast, just over an hour. However, it wasn’t terribly scenic.
Take an airport shuttle from Frankfurt airport.
Book a tour with a local tour company from nearby areas, including Frankfurt.
