The Breathtaking Loro Ciuffenna -

One of my favorite parts of living in Italy is having access to all the lesser-known places.(Like this one) I saw a picture of Loro Ciuffenna on Instagram and knew immediately I had to visit. There was a photo of colorful buildings perched on cliffs. They all lead to a river and waterfall below. The orange, yellow, blue, green, and beige houses all stood connected. They seem to be a protective barrier for the river from the outside world.

The day we visited was a great day for driving the Fiat through the Italian countryside with the top down. (I know, tough life…) The main road leading to Loro Ciuffenna and Le Balze was closed for construction. After approimately half an hour fighting with two GPS’ finally there was an alternate suggestion. Finally, with moods adjusted we were happily on our way to Loro Ciuffenna, having given up the idea of seeing Le Balze.

Loro Ciuffenna, doesn’t look like much on first approach. In fact, I even asked a gentleman if I was in the right place when I parked. We were indeed in Loro Ciuffenna but it was necessary to climb stairs to get into the village. This, for those of you who haven’t travelled much in Italy, is a common situation. Suddenly we were up the stairs and the little village began to look like what I had seen in the photos. Old Etruscan stone houses, small lanes with ancient cobblestones, and a bright orange clock tower standing proudly in the center of town.

The historic center of Loro Ciuffenna is very small. Quickly we were in the main Piazza. From there a small, flower covered bridge leads to another part of the village and shows off what the town is famous for-the waterfall and the river. The deep dramatic gorges hold up the old stone homes. It is a stunning site with the grey and black stone buildings. They were mixed with colorfully painted plaster ones, and the ancient stone bridge. Below, the sound of the water as it flows through the village, surrounded by history, greenery and deep stone gorges is spectacular!

It is obvious standing on the bridge overlooking the town that this is an Etruscan village with Roman influence. In fact, it is believed that the curved bridge was a major crossway for the Romans on their way to Florence. Initially the town was known as Loro (meaning bay tree in English) due to the Laurel trees surrounding the village. Over time the Ciuffenna, the name of the river that cuts the town in two was added. Loro Ciuffenna, as it has been called since 1863, has been named one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Earlier the Ciuffenna was used to power the local mill to make chestnut flour.

We were absolutely famished. By luck, a quick glance up at a charming well-lit window, I found the only restaurant open that day for lunch, Ristorante La Torre. Then, walking up a staggered staircase we arrived in the dining room. There were two small dining rooms, simple and rustic décor with fabulous views out of its small windows. It absolutely oozed character. And then there was the food, oh my god the food! It was superb, worth the trip to Loro Ciuffenna just for the meal at Ristorante La Torre. (If available I recommend the papa la pomodoro and the cappuccino truffle-Jim recommends the braised beef.)

When we gushed about the meal to the owner, his explanation was very Italian, “I don’t do anything that special. I am just committed to cooking with the best Tuscan ingredients I can find.” We hear this often in Italian cooking. While it is true, I beg to differ. La Torre is doing something very special. When you visit, plan a meal there!

That night I had booked B&B- Casa da Agata. I chose it because of its proximity to Loro Ciuffenna and its gorgeous pictures. Of course, I should know that panoramic mountain views usually come with very curvy, very narrow roads.

Casa da Agata was no different. Therefore, we wound our way through a few borgos, each a group of colorful homes nestled into the green woods covering the mountains. There was a little swimming hole with a waterfall and then the driveway to Casa da Agata. The gravel driveway has a slight incline, as the home is perched on the side of one of the Pratomagno mountains with stunning views. Halfway up the driveway our little Fiat 500 almost gave in, but with a little luck we made it to the top. (For most cars the driveway would be no problem at all.)

Quickly we realized we had forgotten to book dinner at the B&B. With this in mind, we didn’t want to test our luck with our little fiat on the gravel road in the dark of night. Thus, after making it up the mountain, winding around the curvy and narrow roads, through the gorgeous scenery, stopping occasionally to let a car pass and then navigating the sloped gravel driveway, we decided it was best to grab an early dinner in town and be back before sunset.

We travelled back to Loro Ciuffenna in search of a place to eat. Luckily, the trip back was much less complicated since we knew our way and did not drive an extra 3km out of our way. Then, in town we discovered the cutest pizzeria we have ever seen!

Nestled at the end of the most modern bridge there is a tiny little building, with a scalloped back, sitting at the end of the bend, overlooking the river. An adorable wooden sign of a woman advertises the Pizza da asporto “Pizza for takeaway”.

At night Loro Ciuffenna, like many Italian villages, feels different. Locals come out for a walk together. They socialize, sit in the two bars in the town for an aperitivo, and watch the stunning sunset. When we first arrived at Loro Ciuffenna it seemed abandoned but as we sat overlooking the river, devouring our pizza we watched the kids play, the adults laugh and share drinks the spirit of the town came alive.

We were lucky enough to catch the sun as it set over the town. The way Loro Ciuffenna is positioned the setting sun casts a glow on the buildings and for 10 minutes or, so the city is aglow in oranges and yellows. Regrettably we could eat no more and we headed up the hill in a race against darkness. In the green covered mountains and fresh air, we slept, resting for the next day, antique shopping in Arezzo at one of the biggest markets in Italy.